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So I know you have to "prime" your miniatures. My questions come from some confusion as to this process and what you actually need for it to work. I was going to spray on the base coat, (which I thought was the same as primer, just another word for it), using an airbrush. I have a set of citadel paints for my paint scheme, the one I was going to spray first onto the models was "The Fang" and it says Base on it. After some searching, apparently this isn't correct? Do I need to get chaos black spray paint to put onto the models first, and then use the base I have? Is the primer only working because it is sprayed onto the models? So would the base paint not work the same? Just would like these things cleared up, as I'm finding a lot of confusing sources, mainly due to processes having different names depending on where it was written.

'Base' won't work as a primer.
A primer sticks much better than standard paint and leaves a very fine grainy finish which leaves a 'grippy' surface for you base-coat to adhere to.
Also you can find cheaper primers elsewhere.
If using an airbrush I recommend Vallejo primer.
If using a can I use Halfords. It comes in quite a few colours - white, grey, black (which isn't strickly a primer but in my experience works as well as one), yellow ochre & red oxide.
They're cheaper than GW which is why a lot of us in the UK use it.
The coloured primers can also act as a 'base-coat' which saves one step in your painting process.
Check out my gallery for examples of using coloured primers, in particular the renegade guard section.
If you have any more questions feel free to PM me.
Note: don't prime when it's cold!

If its from halfords though, doesn't that mean its used on cars and such? Doesn't sound like the best for small plastic models if I'm honest lol, but I'll look into it. What's in a primer then compared to the normal acrylic paints. Just a bit confused here. As for colours, anything close to black will do really, I'll be spraying on the rest of the colours anyway, so I think most of it will end up being covered.

A primer has a different chemical composition from normal paint. It contains particles that allow a succeeding paint layer to have greater bite, and adherence to the material being painted.

Automobile primer is fine to use on miniatures, but bear in mind that too much primer will obscure a lot of detail. Sebestian Archer wrote a great article on priming some time ago, I cannot find the link now, but the idea is not to saturate a miniature with primer, but merely to dust it, or to achieve a very thin coat.

If you're not comfortable with automobile primer or primer you'd find in a hardware store, I recommend Army Painter's primers. They are excellent and provide a very smooth finish compared to GW's primers, which are horrible. I was once told that GW primer is "snake oil" in comparison.

Searching on the halfords site I can't see any black paints that are to do with primer, its all gloss stuff. I suppose I could go with army painters primer in that case, this one looks like a good shot: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/310683546790?var=610197849658&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649

As I mentioned the black isn't strictly a primer but IMO works as well as one:
http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_productId_203909_langId_-1_categoryId_165505

Hmm, and it doesn't come out shiny? Thought that satin meant it would end up with a surface that's a bit too shiny/smooth to paint on.

Satin is fine to paint over.


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If you are having doubts go for the Army Painter primer.

Thanks for the help. I think for the sake of trying to get a smooth process of getting back into painting, I'll go with the army painter one, since it is specifically for models. I did also hear that the halfords black was extremely tough to get off the models, so if I make a mistake and ruin a model (probably going to happen ) it might be more difficult to clean it off. Thanks again though!
Nice gallery btw bubber!

http://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/VLJ00074602/product.php?gclid=CNKO9L_Lg7wCFQ1yQgodDggA-g


Best stuff I use

One last question, particularly with army painter primer, it has acetone in it? I thought that acetone will destroy plastic models.

Army Painter is fine for plastic models.

That said I'm not a fan of Army Painter on account of the nozzles clogging easily - could be a one off though.

If you don't have a Halfords, Homebase also sell a range of spray Primers as do Hobbycraft.

But since you already have an airbrush I would recommend what I use and that is the Vallejo AB primer that bubber also mentioned. I get it from here;

http://www.antenocitisworkshop.com/wargaming-materials-tools/wargames-modeling-paints/primers.html

I have experienced the same nozzle clogging with Army Painter sprays too and I usually steer clear. That being said, they do have a large range of colours that are sometimes difficult to find elsewhere.

 Glaiceana wrote:
One last question, particularly with army painter primer, it has acetone in it? I thought that acetone will destroy plastic models.

I am to believe the acetone makes the plastic partially melt and bond with the paint.

For example, I hear even completely stripping a model painted with the primer leaves a colour tint.

Since you already have the airbrush I'd just buy the Vallejo primer. It costs the same as a rattle can and will last much much longer. It also reduces weather limitations when priming and allows a load more control when spraying.

AngularDeath wrote:
If you're not comfortable with automobile primer or primer you'd find in a hardware store, I recommend Army Painter's primers. They are excellent and provide a very smooth finish compared to GW's primers, which are horrible. I was once told that GW primer is "snake oil" in comparison.

I've actually never had a problem with GW spray primers. It's mostly what I use, though it is annoyingly expensive. Even though I just bought an airbrush I'm still just using the GW spray primers because it's quicker than setting up my airbrush and then cleaning it out when I'm done. Though I live in an area where you can use a spray can year round without too much problem, if you have issues with humidity or extreme cold, an airbrush primer like Vallejo's would probably be better.

Out here on a cold day I prime in the middle of the day when it's warmer, and in the summer I prime in the evenings or mornings when it's cooler.

Most primers will work but I must admit I had better results with the GW black primer with that large spray nozzle on the top.

Some hard won tips on priming:

1) Line up models in such a way that you do not "overspray' onto models further away... leads toward "furry" looking models where partially dried particles stick to the model. I use double sided tape on a hockey stick with 3" spacing.

2) Weather conditions are key as pointed out in prior posts. High fog/humid conditions have got me furry models as well as hot summer conditions (prime in evenings in summer, middle of day in winter if you must prime, prefer above freezing conditions).

3) Shake the primer very well, 3 minutes or so. Ensure the can was inside the house so it was at room temperature: garage conditions primer is bad news: ever get a crackle finish to a model? Keep primer in the house otherwise...

4) Beginning and end of priming tip can upside down and purge the nozzle so it does not clog on your next painting session.

5) Sweeping motion at about a foot away, better to do a "dusting" where you can still see some bare model, let dry and then do a second dusting until you can barely see the base material and it is done.

6) Some thought on cleaning sprues with dish soap is good to remove mold release. I have had models collect some dust after assembly, I tend to hit them with a large "blush applicator brush" since it is soft enough not to snap delicate little bits but have enough bristles to get at everything removing any dust.

7) I would suggest some degreasing dish soap used again on the model if used for play due to finger oils.

8) Then watered down washes of the "base" paints would be used (not to be confused with prime).

9) Careful of using fans around the paint area, a stiff breeze can give nasty overspray issues and the leading edge of the spray will get pushed back and a too thick priming condition can happen.

10) Look into some DIY spray booths made out of storage containers that work pretty good.

Good Luck!