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Tyyr wrote:I dunno, I've known one or two who were pretty ing stupid.

Cats appear intelligent if you ascribe human motives to their behaviour, the same as dogs appear stupid if you do the same to them. In reality, they are very different to us in how they think and how that thinking affects their behaviour.

Dogma argued this point with me before, and I still haven't got round to checking the research he pointed me at, so I'll say no more. But you don't see guide cats for the blind or deaf, mountain rescue cats, sheep herding cats or gaurd/drug sniffing/criminal tracking cats, and there's a reason for that.

You really can't help yourself can you?

No not at all. I have terrible impulse control- I'm a wargamer after all

Well you are off to a good start.

I am a true believer in preventative care, so get your shots and make sure to feed him the best food possible.

The food I recommend is Taste of the wild ( http://www.tasteofthewildpetfood.com/ )

But anything that is free of Grain is typically fine. I also Avoid soy and corn, as it has been linked to many illnesses in dogs and tends to make them stinky.

Most sea food is ok for your dog to eat, in fact Salmon is great for them, it improves there coat and there mental quickness. Do not feed them Raisins or Onions, or anything thing with uncooked yeast in it. They can all kill a dog.


After the food and shots is down just make sure you get to the vet once a year and have blood work done once every 2-3 after hes a puppy. You would be surprised how valuable a consistent blood work record is in prolonging the life of your friend.



Cheers!
Chris


Oh yea I forgot:

Credential: until I moved out of my parents I breed champion show dogs.

I'm in the same place Luna. My wife really wants a dog, any dog, and is telling me I should pick the breed, so that I like it.

I'm leaning towards a Samoyed at this point, but we're going to a big dog show in February to look at some other options.

Da Boss wrote:Probably. It's a pet hate of mine that people think dogs are dumb though. Cos they really aren't.

Scientific studies taken this year shows that dogs are, in fact, smarter than cats.

Dog rule Cats drool. Sorry its just the facts.
http://latimesblogs.latimes.com/unleashed/2009/12/dogs-are-smarter-than-cats-by-a-hair.html

Havings said that, cat or dog, whatever you do don't blow money on a puppy mill pet store or pureblood seller. Pick up a pet froma recue or a pound. These dogs need a home. chances are their lives have been hell to this point, and your place will be an oasis to them. Plus they'll train you up as a proper human in no time.

Just putting in for hunt clubs once again. That's also a rescue in many if not most cases!

How about one of these?



His name is sprocket and hes a wonderful dog! We found him 2 months ago roaming the streets of a large city not to far from here. After we clean him up and cut off all the nasty matts he shaped up to be a good looking hound. Now we just have to find him a nice home.

Frazzled wrote:
Havings said that, cat or dog, whatever you do don't blow money on a puppy mill pet store or pureblood seller. Pick up a pet froma recue or a pound. These dogs need a home. chances are their lives have been hell to this point, and your place will be an oasis to them. Plus they'll train you up as a proper human in no time.

My wife is of this opinion too. But, after having rescued animals in the past, I'm too concerned about inheriting someone else's problem case. I don't need an animal that's been mistreated by its prior owner and is now unsociable or has behaviour issues from day one.

I agree. Get a mongrel pup from a stable mother.

Hey Luna,

I've had dogs for a long time. So, a good 10 out of my 14 years.

Here's some cool tips you should know....

1) As you mentioned before stepping on the dog - if you do step on the dog once or 4 times... don't worry about it! He/she will learn and won't get under your feet.

2) If the dog does something bad and you catch it - "punish" it straight away. If you wait for too long the dog won't know what it's getting a bollocking for. The best way to stop them from doing bad things is by surprising them by shouting "EY! STOP!" They probably don't understand but they soon learn you don't like it and will stop.

3) A dog will always "be hungry" - stick to a regime where you give them certain amounts of food (check for the breed) and treats per day. Don't think "Hmm... she/he seems hungry, I'll feed him a bit more. Because then your dog will get fat - as silly as it sounds, dogs get fat pretty easily because they don't know when to stop.

4) If you are walking your dog - don't hold the dog in your arms if another dog comes up to you. Put the dog down. This gives them a chance to interact and all will be fine. Keep holding the dog and you'll probably/ if not certainly be barked at.

5) Scrap food - dogs love scraps. If you have some waste food, save it. Half the food you would normally give your dog and then add the same amount of scraps to it. Don't do this too often though otherwise you'll have a fat doggy on your hands.

6) Love and care - in your first few months of having your dog make sure you stay with it a lot. You will bond with it much quicker. Don't neglect it... if you want to go to your room, take the dog with you. This is also good because if you think the dog needs the loo, you can grab it and run outside.

7) Scrounging at the table - if your puppy tries to scrounge simply look it in the eyes and say calmly "no."
If it carries on, pick it up and place it away from where your eating, but still keep it in close proximity (if that makes sense). Don't yell at it, you'll only freak it out.

8) Dog toys - In a dog's mind.... what's their's is their's and what's your's is also their's. Keep on top of this by giving it its own toys. It might get bored with them, but just tell them "No." when they take a slipper or whatever. Eventually it WILL learn to appreciate its own toys.

9) Dog's hate some things - you might find your dog hates some things. A common one with my dogs is motorbikes... the highpitched noise of the engine. On that note, try to avoid playing very loud music when the dog's around. It will hate it, no matter how good the music is.

10) Wargaming and dogs- Dog's have tails. Models are delicate. Tails are destructive. Models are easily destroyed. Keep your models out of reach of the dogs tail (higher up somewhere). Trust me, if an excited dog starts wagging it's tail, models and paints go flying.


Well, I sure hope this helps!

Good luck Luna!

Cheers,

Jack.

Follow Kanwulen's advice, and do a bit of volunteering first.

Also, get a mutt, they are the awesomest dawgs around.

Empchild wrote:As the dog grows the other dogs will affect it since it will want to play(we hope).

I dont understand dog language so when the 2( actually 3) neighbor's dog start barking like crazy , it sound like they are about
to bite someone's head off. Will this scare the puppy? because they certainly freak me out -_-



Automatically Appended Next Post:

Blightdrone wrote:
1) As you mentioned before stepping on the dog - if you do step on the dog once or 4 times... don't worry about it! He/she will learn and won't get under your feet.

2) If the dog does something bad and you catch it - "punish" it straight away. If you wait for too long the dog won't know what it's getting a bollocking for. The best way to stop them from doing bad things is by surprising them by shouting "EY! STOP!" They probably don't understand but they soon learn you don't like it and will stop.

4) If you are walking your dog - don't hold the dog in your arms if another dog comes up to you. Put the dog down. This gives them a chance to interact and all will be fine. Keep holding the dog and you'll probably/ if not certainly be barked at.

8) Dog toys - In a dog's mind.... what's their's is their's and what's your's is also their's. Keep on top of this by giving it its own toys. It might get bored with them, but just tell them "No." when they take a slipper or whatever. Eventually it WILL learn to appreciate its own toys.

I have taken care of some adult dogs for friends and relatives before usually for month or 2 at most , and here are some problems that i ran into.

1) Dog paws are like size of human infant's arnt they fragile? If i stepped on them during jogging wouldnt it hurt them? ( you said once or 4 times lol ) also they have habbit of charging right at me , i dont know why but the
larger ones like terriers or rottweilers always tackle me when we go for walks , i always end up with cuts and bruises everywhere not to mention paw prints + mud all over.

2) I had a border collie before , it knows its done something wrong but it still does it . How to deal with this type of behaviors? ( atleast i think they know they done something wrong , it gets belly up when i scream its name )

4) The larger dogs im scared that it'll bite other dogs and it'll be too strong for me to stop them

8) With all the lead poisoning and such , do i need to worry about dog toys? because im sure most of them are made in china and seeing dogs put it in their mouth worries me.

A greyhound is a wonderful started dog imo.

If you rescue them, they are up to date on shots, spayed/neutered, and msot are of good temperment.

However, rescue Greys do not know how to use steps, so you must teach them, they do not understand a sliding glass door and will run into it if
something (A large piece of paper, window markers) are put up and then slowly removed to teach them about it.

Most are very good on leashes, and will not chase after small animals. However, do not put them on a lead, as they can, and have, snapped their necks.

Also, electric fences do not work, as they are beyond it's bounds before it registers.

Greys run fast, so if they get out, use the car to find them.

Greyhounds do have more problems with their teeth then most other breeds as well.
Because they have such thin coats, you must actually buy some for them to warm them up.

Also, thin bones are easy to break,and rawhide chews cane cause them to bleed alot from the gums.

Once again, rescue greys are awesome, and they have a great tempermant, and will rarely, if ever, try and get out.

I would advise dry food with some yogurt to help with digestive problems if they just got off the track.

GES, I'd really have to disagree that greyhounds are good "starting" dogs. They're a nice breed in some ways, and are a passion for some people, but they have a lot of specific needs (as you have pointed out) and tend to be a bit neurotic. They can also tend towards eating disorders (wierd for a dog) and they need LOTS of exercise. I mean lots. More than most breeds.
Don't mean to be negative, greyhounds are nice animals, but for someone who is nervous or inexperienced with dogs I'd reccomend something smaller and lower maintenence. A mongrel terrier is a good be.

Luna: Likely, it'll yank it's paw out from under you and yelp, but I've never broken a pups foot that way. It really doesn't happen that often.
Adult dogs rarely attack pups, unless they are particularly vicious breeds like pitbulls or rottweillers, which shouldn't be wandering around loose anyway. Dogs jumping up on you stems from poor discipline from their owners. It's hard to break if you're the only one trying to stop the behaviour. The easiest way to train a dog out of it is to push them down forcefully and say "No" or "Down" in a firm tone, and never to pet them when they do it. Only pet them when they are sitting, lying or standing still on the ground. They learn pretty quick. Pups are naturally boisterous but they'll get it.
Border collies are smart as hell, and strongminded. Our collie was the same. I don't know your views on this, but what I find works best in that case is a mild physical reprimand. Don't do that if you're nervous or scared of the dog though, they'll probably pick up on it. Also, don't kick dogs as it makes them nervous of your feet. I would generally use an open palm, or a stick. Our collie knew if we picked up a stick he had better stop what he was doing pronto. (this may seem harsh but we lived in the country near a lot of sheep. I wasn't going to have the dog shot for worrying them. I could extend the same logic to a dog bothering kids in an urban setting though. It's vital they know where the lines are.)
I wouldn't say lead poisoning is a major issue. I've never heard of it happening.
Also, as I said, it's rare for a large dog to attack a pup, and it's also relatively rare for dogs to fight to the death. So if he gets caught, he'll most likely only suffer minor injuries.

Da Boss wrote:GES, I'd really have to disagree that greyhounds are good "starting" dogs. They're a nice breed in some ways, and are a passion for some people, but they have a lot of specific needs (as you have pointed out) and tend to be a bit neurotic. They can also tend towards eating disorders (wierd for a dog) and they need LOTS of exercise. I mean lots. More than most breeds.
Don't mean to be negative, greyhounds are nice animals, but for someone who is nervous or inexperienced with dogs I'd reccomend something smaller and lower maintenence. A mongrel terrier is a good be.

.

I have had a wonderful experiance with Greys. True, they are quite neurotic, but after a few weeks with a family they tend to adjust quite nicely, at least in my experiance.
My greys generally walk twice a day to poop, and about four to pee. They generally run around in circles to burn off excess energy. For the most part, they are content just to lie down and sleep eighteen hours out of 24.

Italian Greyhounds otoh, are always a pain in the ass, at least from what I've seen people put themselves through.

But, i do agree, that Greys can be a bit of a problem for new dog owners.

If you find one that has been in a number of homes, but not quite found one to stay in, they are great, as they lerned most of the things i outlined. These are the ones my family has always had, so that might explain my experiance.

Da Boss wrote:mild physical reprimand. Don't do that if you're nervous or scared of the dog though, they'll probably pick up on it.

Not sure if thats possible , it played cat and mouse vs my mom when she tried to spank it.
Not only that , it does it in a very mocking manner as it waits for her to get close , and VROOMs off so fast ,
over and over again.

Not only that it taunts the 2 neighbors dog all day , our fence almost fall apart as the border collie flips off the fence while
neighbor's tries to dig through... ( and the collie than stand there listening , can see his ears moving around )

LunaHound wrote:Not sure if thats possible , it played cat and mouse vs my mom when she tried to spank it.
Not only that , it does it in a very mocking manner as it waits for her to get close , and VROOMs off so fast ,
over and over again.)

It's likely it thinks your Mum is playing a game, and will be quite surprised when she eventually catches it and punishes it.

It's important to teach a dog to sit, to stay and to come, and teach these in such a way that it never confuses them with a game. The former is a really important way of keeping your dog from annoying people or walking over stuff it shouldn't be, the latter two may keep your dog alive.

My cat follows me around like a dog would, and I even taught him to sit! It took two years and lots of stern talkings-to, but I did it. And you really don't need that expensive food. I've always used Purina cat chow and our cats live into their late teens and are healthy right up until the end. One of them even killed a rat that was nearly as big as him when he was 18 years old. Cats seem smarter because they have less natural guile than dogs, who have the ability to lul you into a false sense of security. The they take over.

LunaHound wrote:If i raise one starting from a puppy , what do i need to consider?

A place for it to sleep , 2 clean bowl for food and water. what brand? dry or wet food?
a collar , a leash , a chew toy , some dental bone treat. do puppy drink same milk we drink? no chocolate right? and no sea food?
At vet: Immunity shots? some sort of ID?

How often do they need to be washed as a puppy? if they have medium length hair?
Do they sleep alone at night? or near me?
My house is surrounded by 2 giant dogs , will they effect the mentality of how the puppy grows?

Any more info dakka dog owners want to share?

My wife and I have 6 dogs (5 greyhounds and a dalmatian) and also foster and are meet and greet Chairs for a retired racing greyhound adoption group. We have also raised puppies successfully. My wife was a dog trainer before she went back to college for her Masters. So I think I can offer some advice for you.

First I would determine what breed you want. Don't go for looks or popularity. Decide how much exercise you can provide, what kind of living environment (inside vs outside), how much grooming you want to do, how much training you want to do, etc. A dog that does not get enough mental or physical exercise is a bad one that gets into trouble. (Basically if you don't want to run a mile a day don't get a dog with a lot of energy.) Also consider common health issues in the different breeds...for example, if you do not have a large, expendable income do not go for an English Bulldog, Mastiff, or other breeds that tend to have a lot of expensive health issues. Also consider dog experience. Drivey dogs like a German Shepherd require a lot of training and a strong pack leader.

Rescues vet the dogs and often know their personalities. Rescues are ideal and I recommend to everyone who wants a dog to adopt, whether a mutt or purebred. Do not worry about "baggage" a dog can have from a past life. With training, some TLC, time, patience, and understanding any dog can overcome their past and be a good companion. I have a dog that was rescued from the worst conditions...he was starved, beaten (97 open wounds when I got him) and hung from a tree with barbed wire around his neck. He survived and, while a bit spooky with new people and situations, he is the best, most loving 60lb lap dog.

If you go to a breeder make sure it is somebody who does health testing (not just a vet checkup...but somebody who tested the parents for common genetic health concerns). If not you may end up with some issues down the road that will hurt the wallet. And make sure if you get a puppy that it does not leave it's mom and litter until at minimum 8 weeks old. They may be eating hard food before then but they will miss out on very important socialization skills that they will not get anywhere else. The litter is different than a new pack of dogs. Keep in mind no responsible breeder will let them go before 8 weeks. Certain breeds (German Shepherds, Boxers, Malamutes, Akitas, dogs like that) can develop temperament issues if not give this crucial social time.

I would suggest crate training a puppy. It may seem cruel but dogs like their little dens. I have 2 crates in the house for my puppy...one in the bedroom so she can sleep in the room with us and the pack at night and one in the living room. It helps potty training immensely. Do not expect a dog to be able to hold it's bladder until around 6 months old. Never rub the puppy's nose in an accident. Unless you catch them in the act you cannot correct them...because they won't know why they are being corrected. This is where crates help...take them out immediately after eating, napping, being in the crate, playing...basically after they have done something. Young puppies need to go out as often as every couple hours until they get older. At 12 weeks our girl goes out about every 3-4 hours if not crated while we are gone.

Do not offer wet food. Dry food helps keep the gums and teeth in good shape. Do not give the puppy milk...many dogs are lactose intolerant (I have one who is). Avoid chocolate, raisins, grapes, fried food, pork, cooked bones...basically stick with healthy dog food and treats. The only people food my dogs get is bananas, apples, marshmallows, carrots, etc. As far as brands of food...different foods work for different dogs. If you get a large breed feed one that is for all life stages including puppy...if a dog grows too fast problems can occur. You can mix it with puppy food. Puppy food has a lot of great stuff but can make some giant breeds grow too quickly. We're feeding Blue Buffalo...a bit pricey but remember the better the food the less you feed. It's good stuff.

Get the puppy a puppy kong and fill it with food/peanut butter. It will help with teething and give them something to do. Cow hooves and sterilized bones are ok from the pet store. Get some teething toys, some stuffed toys, etc.

Bathing is up to the owner. Do not do it too often because you will dry out the skin.

Be careful with interactions between the existing dogs and the puppy. They will teach the pup social pack manners but can get too rough. Don't leave them alone together unattended...at least not until the pup is big enough not to be an oversized stuffie. At 12 weeks old our little girl is about the size of a giant bunny we bought our adults last Easter.

Shots should be given at 6 weeks old, 9 weeks old, 12 weeks old, and rabies at around 4 months old with a booster. Sometimes the breeder will wait until 8 weeks old or so...follow an every 3 week schedule. Do NOT take let the puppy on unfamiliar ground or take it out in public until all shots are done. Parvo is deadly, expensive, and extremely contagious. It can live in the dirt for years. Yes, keep an ID on the pup. Do not keep a collar on in the crate. We have heard about a lot of strangulation deaths from leaving a collar on in a crate.

Remember, as bad as you think a puppy is being, it is just trying to play/figure things out. Puppies use their mouths much like we use our hands so if your puppy is seeming a bit "bitey" use bitter apple or some other spray to discourage. NEVER physically strike the puppy as this can lead to fear/aggression at an older age.

Roughhousing with a puppy is cute, roughhousing with a 200 pound adult St. Bernard much less cute. Whatever you teach it is ok as a puppy it will remember for the rest of its life and never understand why the fun fighting game gets it yelled at now. EVERYTHING you teach a puppy it will remember, good, bad and indifferent. If it fusses in a crate just ignore it and take headache reliever for the crying as if you acknowledge it in ANY way (yelling, going to the crate, throwing things, hitting the crate) will teach the puppy that it gets attention when it cries.

Hope this helps.

LunaHound wrote:If i raise one starting from a puppy , what do i need to consider?

Can't you buy a book on dogs that covers the basics? Anyhow, we have a Chow.

Dog needs a warm bed (prefer to share yours), food & water. I like Nutro Max (dry), but if you can afford it, Eukanuba is great.

You should walk twice daily, if possible. And for God's sake, scoop the poop!

Collar & leash are good, especially obedience lessons & discipline / training. Toys are also OK. Main thing is to get the dog to know you're Alpha and will take care of him.

Rabies vaccination, etc usually required by law, and you'll want an ID in case he runs away / gets lost. RFID chip is pretty cool.

Washing / grooming depends on breed. Check your dog book.

Dog loves to sleep near / with you, if you allow. Just like cat, but bigger.

Neighbor dogs aren't an issue, but you'll need to "introduce" at some point, and not have your dog be some scared wimp.


If dog is too much work, get a cat. Much easier to take care of!


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Mr. Burning wrote:

Manchu wrote:I've had dogs all my life, never did any of this alpha stuff,

Its not an overt thing, its just stuff you do. Dogs know when its good, you just have to be aware or what a dog wants and what they need is structure.

Exactly. Watch the Dog Whisperer show. It's pretty good stuff.

Also, it's helpful to be a full-grown male. Dogs respect bigger animals with deep voices that are strong enough to "manage" them without having to hurt them.




Automatically Appended Next Post:

Frazzled wrote:Scientific studies taken this year shows that dogs are, in fact, smarter than cats.

Pfft. I've had both, and cats are definitely smarter. Dogs are friendlier, higher EI. But cats are *much* smarter from an IQ standpoint.

OTOH, if you're talking about "scientific studies" like "global warming caused by man" such that "the science is settled", then I guess I could see where you're coming from. But I didn't think you subscribed to junk science.

Still, show me the dog who can turn a doorknob, or poop in the toilet and flush, and I might reconsider...

Da Boss wrote:GES, I'd really have to disagree that greyhounds are good "starting" dogs. They're a nice breed in some ways, and are a passion for some people, but they have a lot of specific needs (as you have pointed out) and tend to be a bit neurotic. They can also tend towards eating disorders (wierd for a dog) and they need LOTS of exercise. I mean lots. More than most breeds.
Don't mean to be negative, greyhounds are nice animals, but for someone who is nervous or inexperienced with dogs I'd reccomend something smaller and lower maintenence. A mongrel terrier is a good be.

.

Hmmm...we've personally put over 200 greyhounds into homes the past couple years...own 5 of our own...and had 15 fosters last year. My wife and I are chairs in a greyhound adoption group and a foster home. She is also a moderator on a greyhound forum. I've yet to meet a neurotic one. They do need guidance, understanding & training (steps, floors, being a dog and not a racing machine) when coming off the track. They're pretty easy, simple dogs...walk them on a leash, never let them off leash unless fenced, feed them a food that works with them (eating disorders? No...sensitive stomachs? Yes) give them at least an hour walk a day, a couch, a dog bed (they have to live inside) and a few toys. They are actually ideal first dogs and apartment/condo dogs. They are not difficult and are very low maintenance in grooming, very few health issues for a purebred, and VERY LOW energy. Perfect dog for a couch potato person who is willing to put some training into them. Added bonus...if they have been in foster homes they should know a lot of what needs taught already.

Also, they do NOT require a lot of exercise. This is a belief held by people who do not know much about them and assume as racing dogs they are active. They are sprinters, much like a Cheetah. A race is 32-35 seconds long for a reason...they blow all their energy off quickly. They only race 2-3 times a week because they need rest in between. In fact, Greyhounds sleep 18-20 hours a day. They are a breed that requires much LESS exercise than an average breed...a 30 minute to an hour walk a day. It took us months to work ours up to a couple mile walk every day...and ours range in age from a under a year up to 6 years. And even with a large fenced yard they choose to run occasionally for short spurts and then crash out in the grass.

Sure, some have issues. But the majority adjust to a home situation fairly easily and with few problems. In fact they are often adopted out to first time dog owners successfully.

Maybe you are thinking of Italian Greyhounds? A completely separate breed that is hyper and high maintenance? Because I know you did not describe a typical retired racing greyhound. No offense but people who spread misinformation (even unintentionally) about the breed are the reason they have a hard time finding homes and so many more are killed after being cast off from racing. PLEASE read up on them and learn before spreading misinformation.

Nothing personal though...this is just a huge part of our life so I have a lot of passion for it.

Here are some links about the breed that will elaborate on what I posted.
http://www.adopt-a-greyhound.org/
http://www.ngap.org/
http://www.greyhoundpets.org/
http://www.presspubs.com/articles/2009/12/31/st_croix_valley_press/news/doc4b3d0afeaab48637901737.txt

Do some research on the different kinds of breeds you are interested in. Different breeds will act differently. You are female, so I would suggest you get a male dog. Male dogs usually bond to human females quicker than the do to human males. Go to a pet store and start looking at prices for dog food, treats, leash, vitamins, etc. This will give you an idea of how much food/supplies will cost you. This last is important as I can't tell you how many times I've heard of people having to give their dogs away, because they couldn't afford it.

JohnHwangDD wrote:

LunaHound wrote:If i raise one starting from a puppy , what do i need to consider?

Can't you buy a book on dogs that covers the basics? Anyhow, we have a Chow.

I do , i have Dog's Annual , puppy edition that i read through.
But im also looking for live feed backs , not just some random things printed in a magazine ( which i dont really trust )

Ironhide wrote:Do some research on the different kinds of breeds you are interested in. Different breeds will act differently. You are female, so I would suggest you get a male dog. Male dogs usually bond to human females quicker than the do to human males. Go to a pet store and start looking at prices for dog food, treats, leash, vitamins, etc. This will give you an idea of how much food/supplies will cost you. This last is important as I can't tell you how many times I've heard of people having to give their dogs away, because they couldn't afford it.

I always look through pet section when i buy groceries , even if i dont have a dog lol.
And a warhammer player should never ever give their dog away due to affording issues!

you never feed a dog these 3 things\
chocolate
cheese
anykind of berrys(infact its one type but i cant remember so i just avoid them all.)
i cant rember the fourth one.
you can feed them veggies but there bodies hve enough of what veggies give them.
met of anykind othere then fish(the chemicals are what the problem is) ig good aslong as there isnt alot of fact.

ALSO never give chicken on the bone they could choke.

someday soon i hope to breed dogs for a hobby. gotta learn early.

Manchu and MGS hit all the main points here, and I vouch for their accuracy. My family has raised sled dogs for 20+ years, and many of our dogs live to be 17 years+ and lead happy lives. My pops was on the board of directors for "Mush with PRIDE", a non-profit organization that promoted education for human and ethical animal treatment, especially for working dogs.

Recommendation for best nutrition based on personal experience: Eukanuba, Eagle Pack, Star Pro, or IAMs (Science diet if you really want to pamper them). Dry dog food is best served mixed with water. You don't have to look on the directions on the bag to figure out how much to feed the dog, but for most large-breed dogs it is easy to tell how "obese" they are. In labs, huskies, etc., there is usually a cavity between their back hip bones that you can feel the spine run through. If you can feel the spine distinctly, they are too thin. Give more food. On the other hand, if there is no indentation between the back hip bones, then the dog is too fat. For non-working dogs, that is a non-issue, but obesity in dogs can lead to just as many problems that people suffer from.

Training recommendation from personal experience: A lot of this depends on the breed. Some breeds are more stubborn than others, and certain breeds are bred to be more attentive to your commands. For instance, I have had retired sled dogs be my housepets, and more recently, a black lab mutt. The sled dogs, even though it was their first time indoors in 7 years of life, were much more adept at following directions and behavioral guidelines (get off the couch, this is your bed, don't beg, do your business OUTSIDE, etc) than my black lab that I raised as from a puppy. It has a lot to do with willingness to please, and how willing they are to follow your commands to get that result. I have witnessed firsthand though, that there needs to be an "alpha" personality in the life of the dog for it to be happy. I can't vouch for small breed dogs, but for most larger breeds / working dogs, this is the case. Kind of like children (of which I have 2), they need stern but loving guidance and reassurance. I like to classify training into two camps: Positive rewards and Negative reinforcement. Every time a dog follows a command that pleases me, said dog gets praise, treats, petting, etc. That is the positive reward for good behavior. When the dog does something bad, they get punished depending on the severity of the infraction. For example, the dog gets punished far more severely for growling at a houseguest than for messing on the carpet.

There are some things I do not EVER tolerate from my dogs:
A) Hostile behavior towards people, especially children (kids are known for being especially antagonistic to their pets, I know I was when I was a child)
B) Jumping up on counterspaces or other food-raiding behavior
C) Chewing on anything aside from designated chewing material (rawhide bones, rope toys, squeakers, etc)




This post is getting lengthier than I intended, so I will get to the point:
Many things about owning an animal will come naturally once you start. It is actually kinda good training for being a parent because it teaches you how to be responsible for another living creature's well being. Dogs are just more enjoyable than other pets because if you love them, they'll oftentimes reciprocate. There's a reason they're "Man's best friend".

Just a few quick important closing tips:
Leash Laws protect your pet, not just others. If you don't have an enclosed yard the animal can run around in, take the dog out on a leash. It is much safer. It also reinforces your dominance.
Keeping your dog on a chain is not cruel. PETA launched a couple of smear ads a while back claiming that keeping dogs chained outside was cruel, but it is important to know that restraining your pet is very preferable to the alternative. If you can't restrain the animal outdoors, and you worry about problems with chewing or general mayhem, invest in a sturdy SkyKennel (pet-carrier). When you leave, lure your dog in with a small bowl of food or a rawhide treat. Leave water if you can, if not then be sure to be back within a reasonable amount of time to let the dog out. This is a last resort, but again, its better than the alternative.

Most importantly: DO NOT EVER GIVE UP ON YOUR PET! Dogs can take a lot of training. It takes a lot of patience to train a dog, especially a puppy. There will be accidents. There will be messes. Like parenting, it all kinda goes with the territory. Don't back out, and give the dog over to the pound. The only time you should EVER consider giving your animal to the pound is if you just absolutely CAN'T come up with the money to feed it.

Ok, I've rambled on long enough. Good luck!

EDIT: Gotta show him off-

@ Foxphoenix , i always believe that when a dog really belongs with their master , their eyes will start to look like a humans.
You must really love your dog!

I found this video , and was wondering what the dog is doing from 1:00 to 1:30
is it trying to teach it something? if yes , what though? ( im guessing its telling it to start playing? )

There are books about dog owning which would make a good start.

Once you have decided you want to buy one, you should consult a vet who will advise you on proper care, feeding, and immunisations, etc.