AFAIK the 'plastic primer' contains a plasticiser. Which gives the finished paint film a bit of flex.
Whn you paint plastic panels for a car, or motor cycle etc, this is desirable, the normal 2k polyurethane paint, or 1k cellulose paints dry quite hard and would crack with the panels natural flex.
This is important with motorcycles where the panels are entirely plastic and can flex just by travelling at speed.
The standard 'primer' is what you want here. Also worth a look is the Matt Black paint (read; not primer, paint) is every bit as good as a primer coat for figures as the chaos black citadel spray is.
They also do a series of camouflage paints, khaki, green, brown and black in 400ml cans - its aimed at doing british army camo on things... but the khaki one has become one of my favourite colours to work from as an alternative to grey.
Good trick to remember is to heat the can up under the hot tap as you are shaking it up prior to use. This helps you get the most out of the can by upping the pressure inside it, decreasing the temp difference between the paint and the atmosphere during
de-pressurisation, and lowers the viscosity of the paint a little.
95% of the 'what went wrong with my priming' threads could have been avoided with this trick.
Other than that, dont leave them outside to dry, you ideally want to spray in a still environment (no wind) that is warm.
... best we can usually hope for is to step outside, spray and immediately step back in.
Remembering those two things will have your halfords primer out performing the citadel stuff on cost and performance
I do get jealous of the Americans saying they get krylon for a dollar!

wheres our under £1 spray paints?! grrr