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My go to method for cleaning second hand minis is to soak them for as long as necessary in Simple Green. It disintegrates most paint jobs except for the occasional heavy primer. It also weakens most glue bonds on metal minis. There are a few minis, though, that it isn't breaking the bond on metal to metal bits as well as some metal to plastic bits. Does anyone have a method for weakening this bond? I don't want to use dangerous chemicals. I also don't want to pry things apart and risk breaking or twisting the bits to pieces. In particular, these are metal Death Guard Havocs, the bits of which are pretty hard to come by now (metal heads, shoulder pads, and front weapon/torso). These particular minis have been sitting in Simple Green for 2 weeks now and still haven't come apart - even with a bit of prying. Thanks in advance!

Are you talking about cyanoacrylates (Super Glue, etc.)? If so, have you tried putting them in the freezer?

If the previous owner used an epoxy...good luck.

Yeah, I'm not sure what they were assembled with. I'm pretty sure it's not epxoy, though. I didn't think of trying the freezer... how long should I leave them in there?

If it's superglue, acetone will dissolve it (very useful for your fingers too!). Since acetone will NOT harm metal models, just toss your metal model into the any old acetone nail polish remover overnight and presto.

If it's epoxy, basically you're screwed. Epoxy is meant to be permanent, and very resilient, although certain chemicals can help.

I understand acetone will break down epoxy, but it takes a long time. I've never used it successfully on a 28mm model that's properly assembled with epoxy, without messing up the model. Then again, perhaps I'm just not patient enough

The chemical that WILL destroy epoxy is DCM (aka Dichloromethane, or Methylene Chloride). It's a chemical found in certain paint strippers, and it efficiently turns epoxy into goo without damaging metal. DCM will dissolve almost any organic compound, including epoxy. However, it's a toxic when inhaled (it metabolizes in the body to carbon monoxide), it causes chemical burns on contact, it's fetotoxic (ie dangerous to pregnant mothers) and it is a carcinogen. So like... do you want the model separated THAT much?

Oh, yes, do NOT use DCM on a plastic model, as it will do the same thing as plastic cement and weld the various pieces together (in the short term), or turn everything into a puddle of poo if you leave it longer.

Methylene Chloride is in some liquid plastic cements such as Ambroid Pro-Weld.

It is pretty nasty stuff, but if you use the proper precautions you will not come to any harm.

Duh moment... forgot about good 'ol acetone. I'll have to raid the wifes nail polish supply There is a plastic shoulder pad on the minis. I don't care if it is destroyed (as I have hundreds of extras), but will it leave residue on the metal?

 StormBringer328 wrote:
Duh moment... forgot about good 'ol acetone. I'll have to raid the wifes nail polish supply There is a plastic shoulder pad on the minis. I don't care if it is destroyed (as I have hundreds of extras), but will it leave residue on the metal?

No. In fact, after you give it a good toothbrushing, the metal will sparkle and shine like never before Acetone will not react with white metals of any type (lead, pewter, etc) at all; the most likely source of damage is by scrubbing too hard and bending pieces.


There is a solvent by Mr. Hobby called Mr. Tool Cleaner that is acetone-like. I actually bought it to give airbrush parts a really good clean every few months. I don't know what's in it, because the label is 100% Japanese except the product name However, it works similarly to acetone (and stinks even worse), but seems much more powerful. In just minutes, paint seems to peel off all by itself, minimal work with a brush is necessary, and it has always separated superglue for me (intentionally or not). Oh yes, and if I leave it overnight, it will melt a plastic base right off, hehe.

 gorgon wrote:


If the previous owner used an epoxy...good luck.

Hot water will help. Many araldites (epoxy adhesives) - ESPECIALLY the "5 minute" type - will start to denature at 72*c. It starts to harden and crumble. This is nowhere near the melting point of the metal, so you should be right with that.

Normal cellulose paint thinners will sort out your metal minis. It will eat plastic and I cant see it being kind to resin but on metal its great, dissolves everything except the metal, drop a mini in glued, painted and leave to sit a day of two and it like new again. needless to say jam jars with lids are needed as it stinks and will eat plastic.

 StormBringer328 wrote:
Yeah, I'm not sure what they were assembled with. I'm pretty sure it's not epxoy, though. I didn't think of trying the freezer... how long should I leave them in there?

A couple hours should be enough. It's a good trick for something that's painted or not able to be submerged in chemicals.

I generally use a ziploc sandwich bag and in the freezer overnight. Take it out and allow to return to room temp. The metal or plastic will flex a little more than the glue with the temperature changes - combined with the water molecules trapped in the bond (which will expand/contract with the freeze/thaw) it should be enough.

If it's a particularly stubborn one (lots of glue) repeated freeze/thaw cycles may be needed.

I have my own method as i collect older models

Simple acetone nail polish remover is great.
Leave it to soak over night and it removes the paint (bonus) and weakens then bond quite a bit.

I have found afterwards that i can pick the glue off with a knife or a pin and parts just pop away easily.



As said though, for epoxy's like araldite (amazing stuff for heavy models) just soak it in boiling water or hold it over a flame for a moment and it comes straight off.

I repair alot of fishing rods and the tip eyes always need replacing, for this people use araldite.
I hold the ring under the flame for a few seconds and it pops off.

Just be careful with a flame as it does create a smoke which isnt nice, so better off with boiling water.


My input anyway and good luck

Acetone tends to EAT plastics though.

It's fine for metals - bad for plastics and resins.

The freeze method is safe for all of them.