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Okay, so I've found several other threads and websites about greenstuff, but I don't really find how I should apply it.
Up till now, I've just laid on my greenstuff, working on rough areas with enough grip and haven't had any problems, but I want to sculpt a cloak this time.

The tutorials I've found, are okay, and I'm trying to use this thread, using the technique to make the robes for the cloak.
I'm confused about the part where he says, 'place' that (the sausages) on your model.

Whenever I put on a sausage, it doesn't stick very well, and if I start blending it in, I'm breaking the bonds. Also, I'm wetting my tools, but eventually there will be a drop of water flowing underneath the things I'm trying to blend, and then it doesn't stick anymore.
On the picture, you can see what I'm trying to make. The central fold runing down, suddenly stops. That's the part where my sausage didn't stick anymore because I tried to blend it in. The part underneath it, with all the imperfections, is the seam of another piece of gs I layed on, trying to lengthen the cape I can't smooth it out into the first piece, because again, the layers get to thing that I start tearing the greenstuff apart. Don't worry about the fingerprints, that's just me trying to work too fast, so next time I'm watching out for that.
Should I try to blend it in with liquid greenstuff?

I'm surely just starting over, this is a good lesson, but I'd like some tips at what I should aim.

If I have that problem, I use a tinny tiny bit of super glue. I don't apply it to the model, I put a drop in a piece of paper and transfer some with a back end of a paint brush or the like.

Also remember it is best to work with support with greenstuff. Depending on your cape it may be best to rough in the shape first and let it dry fully before working on a new layer.

Want smooth? Get some Colorshapers. These are like paintbrushes but there is a rubber tip where the brissles would be. You can get em from Dick Blick.

http://www.dickblick.com/products/colour-shapers-tools/?clickTracking=true&wmcp=pla&wmcid=items&wmckw=04935-0212&gclid=Cj0KEQiA6JemBRC5tYLRwYGcwosBEiQANA3IB2aly_RJVdO2K0ssKbmS2qdG25pnJkgpTCdY311kEMMaAr8n8P8HAQ

I've let my support of the cape dry before working on the folds. Can such a colorshaper blend a new piece of greenstuff into an old one, or do you need liquid greenstuff for that?

I always have the separation problem as well.

Some times i add a bit more yellow in the mix but thats not always good.

I like to score the area im attaching to with a knife at times

Color/clay shapers are great for smoothing and nudging around soft GS, but I find them too soft (even the extra firm) to fully blend areas. I'll usually work an edge down as far as I can with shapers, switch to a hard metal tool to force that last little lip/seam down, then clean up anything that got deformed by the blending with the shapers. Definitely handy tools for sculpting with epoxy putty, but not a sure-fire solution to your particular problem.

Yeah I am with oadie, the colour shapers are way too soft for major reshaping (I just know I am going to rip one of mine apart).

If I am doing something which needs a lot of molding, I tend to mix it 50/50 with miliputt.

I third Oadie's post.

Also, I'm wetting my tools, but eventually there will be a drop of water flowing underneath the things I'm trying to blend, and then it doesn't stick anymore.

I had a feeling that might be one of your problems right before I read it. My suggestion: Don't use so much water! You can try some oil-based lubricant instead, like Whatwhat's suggestion, though personally I still use water meself. I just limit how much goes on the tool by using a piece of damp sponge in a small, shallow container, rather than dunking the tool in a jar of water like a paintbrush.

What else... How are you smoothing the putty? Gentle strikes as Whatwhat also suggests?

More yellow is generally a good idea. The manufacturers of green stuff recommend three parts yellow to two parts blue for general sculpting and modelling. It makes it both stickier, and softer so that shaping shouldn't take as much pushing and forcing, that might dislodge the putty. Though on that note I'd suggest that once you've placed your GS sausages, you give them an extra push down too, before spreading them out!

If the putty's not very sticky or soft, even with extra yellow, it's possible that it's gone off. GS tends to do that if it's been lying around for a while, in warm temperatures, with both parts of the strip touching. Solution: buy more, keep it chilled if you don't use it for a while, and cut out a few mm of the middle if you buy the strip form. Alternately, buy the tube form where both colours are separately wrapped.

And second KB Lock's suggestion, too. The exact proportions depend on preferences, and for first tries I'd definitely skew towards a majority of green stuff; but mixing in a little milliput or some other clay-like putty (magic sculp, a+b, etc) will easily soften even 'stale' green stuff, more than extra yellow will, and milliput in particular will definitely improve the stickiness of green stuff too.

I tend to think you're probably over wetting things. I have the greenstuff nice and wet when I'm mixing it, then I break off the amount I need, manipulate it in to approximately the shape I want, then I actually dry it off with a tissue and dry off any drops of water on my tools. Apply it as dry as you can. If it starts to stick to your tools too much, apply just a small amount of water to the tool, not enough for it to bead up with droplets. Once it's well and truly stuck down then I'll start using a bit more water for the final shaping, water shouldn't get under it as easily.

That advice came from a guy who is really good at sculpting on another forum, I don't remember his name, but he basically said a lot of people struggle with greenstuff because they make it too wet (or oily if they're using oil) which takes away all the stickiness and you need some stickiness to work it properly, so now I try and keep greenstuff dry (except when mixing it and pre-shaping of course) and just use small amounts of water sparingly to stop it sticking to tools. I always keep a tissue on hand in case I accidentally apply too much water, don't try and work it when it's immersed in water, just wick away the excess with the tissue before continuing.

Another thing to keep in mind is greenstuff tends to be sticker when it's first mixed and becomes less sticky as it goes harder. It's also stickier when it's hot (and being hot makes it cure faster). So if you want the greenstuff to be the most sticky, mix it in warm water, dry it off and apply it straight away, push it down and try your best to seal the edges. If you then come back an hour later for the final shaping after it's cooled down and cured a bit, it will hopefully be stuck to the model pretty well but your tools won't stick to it as easily (you'll still want to use a bit of water). A lot of the time it's best to do final detailed shaping once it's slightly cured anyway, because you can manipulate a small area and it won't warp the bulk as much, often what you want to do is get the basic shape when it's softer in the beginning then come back an hour later to do your final shaping and detailing.

If you find you have the greenstuff where you want it but the damn thing just won't stick (maybe because it's too wet) grab a tissue, wick away as much water as you can, then just leave the model to sit for a few minutes (maybe 10 or so), as long as you got most of the water it will start to settle and stick to the model. Then come back with your tools and start trying to shape it again and you'll find it's more likely to have stuck to the model now. I discovered this trick simply because I'd leave balls of greenstuff on my desk while working and found after 1 minute I could easily remove the greenstuff but after 10 minutes it would be significantly harder to remove, lol.