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So I've retrospectively decided I want to model a large (Knight Oval) base with a stream running through the middle.

I'm not sure what to use to stop the stuff just running off the edge though. Obviously I can build banks for its route through, but as it is a linear feature, I can't do this for where it exits and enters the scene.

I'm concerned any sort of tape used will just lose adhesion before everything is set.

Suggestions?

Interested and subbed.
Maybe build the "dams" with silicone?
No idea.

I would suggest some sort of Plasticene or Play dough to dam up the ends as it runs off the base. Maybe DAS air drying clay might even do it in a pinch?

Yeah, that's where my thinking was going, my fear is that it would result in a rather 'soft' edge, or would gradually unstick just the same.

Possibly overfilling and then sanding with wet and dry paper and polishing back in line with the base?
Seems like a long way round though.
I want to know!

Well, I'll be sure to post my experiences in a week or so. If nobody can answer with any experience then I'll have to be the one to do it (but will need to buy some plasticine first!)

I think it has already been mentioned but when you have the terrain ready you will just need to block the one or two exit points with some putty. Or you could try some masking tape and putty after that to contain it. When it's finished you should be able to remove the masking tape quite easily.


Here's a google video search for "modeling+water+effects". That could give some more ideas for tools or products.
https://encrypted.google.com/#tbm=vid&q=modeling+water+effects

And here's an article that mentions how to seal off borders: http://www.stormthecastle.com/diorama/diorama-water-and-water-effects.htm

I'd spent a bit of time on Google before I posted, and the specific issue is Still Water Effects, while giving a splendid finish, is extremely thin (an aspect that contributes to the self leveling properties I suspect) and inclined to exploit any small gaps.

Were it a diorama, it would be much easier to fashion something as in your link, but because it is a base, and much thinner and curved, it requires something flexible enough to closely follow the shape.

I think plasticine is the way forward, but was hoping for a definitive answer before I ended up with artificial water all over my work desk!

I think as long as you do a decent seal and are willing to clean up any drips on the edge of the base you should be fine. Put some newspaper under the base to catch anything that does leak out, just to protect whatever surface you're leaving it on while it dries, but other than that I can't imagine it will leak out fast enough to make any real difference in the final result.

I'd recommend finding all the methods you can and try each on a small base as an experiment, there's just so many variables with thin liquids, I don't think it's possible for someone to tell you exactly what will work for you.
There's a few good videos on YouTube, awaken realms, secret weapon and terranscapes I think, but it really is very dependant on each situation.

One tip I do have to offer is after you've painted and sealed your base you can do a " dry run" by filling the area with actual water and leaving it overnight to see if it leaks, rather than risking the still water first up.

I have used both clear resin and Vallejo Still Water for the entire base with a silicone mold as the dam. I wanted the entire 360 degree circumference to be clear so I know your dilemma. I am assuming that you want the stream to have a bit of depth like the examples in my links below.

Still Water is nearly as thin as water and if there is a gap, it will find it and you will end up a mess. I would highly recommend using clear resin over Still Water as there are a few benefits. The resin I used was Amazing Clear Cast and it is available for under $20 at craft stores like Michaels etc and you will lots left over. It hardens like rock whereas the Still Water is a bit softer and can be dented if you really press into it. The resin also hardens overnight even with very thick/deep castings. Still Water will harden overnight as well but you will need to do multiple thin layers each requiring time to dry/cure. If you pour a fresh layer over a layer that is not quite cured, it tends to go cloudly...like solid white cloudy but this will disappear eventually so keep that in mind. The disadvantage of resin is bubbles so stir slowly and pour in a thin stream to minimize this.

As you have realized, if you want the ends of the stream to line up with the edges of the oval base, the tricky part is finding something other than silicone to use as a dam that can be shaped to the curve and then peeled away without sticking to the Water Effects or resin and leaving a clean edge profile. If you use some sort of clay, I suspect that will leave a lot of cloudy residue in the resin/water product on the ends so I don't think I would use it. Although tape can be shaped to the curve, the oval base is too thin and the tape at the top (not touching/stuck to the base) tends to lose the curved shape even with thick packing tape or multiple layers. I would use something more rigid like a section cut out of a thin-walled drink cup like you get in a 7-11 Slurpee or Starbucks iced-coffee. You will need to build a ditch/trough on your base to contain the sides of your stream and blend that with the dry land on your base. I would use Milliput as it hardens better than green stuff. Add PVA glue, sand, sticks, and paint the entire base including what you want to see at the bottom of the stream and let it all dry. To attach your end cap dams made of cup walls, I would use PVA glue to affix them to the outer perimeter of the base. The glue will harden and form your seal between the cup wall and base edge. I would take the extra step to add layers of tape to further hold it against the side as well. Put your base on a flat surface with something to protect underneath like newspaper before your pour the resin. The resin is fairly thick like glue so it flows slowly. Even if looks like your dam is holding on each end when you reach your desired depth, check on it 5-10 minutes later for leaks and have something to contain any that escapes like a hot glue gun or clay.

When the resin is dry, you should be able to peel away the cup wall and get a clean edge. The PVA glue seal can be broken to separate from the base edge and any residue will scrape off.

Here is some stuff I cast which give you a better picture of what I tried to explain above.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/641459.page

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/677627.page