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Made in gb
Dakka Veteran




UK, Derbyshire.

Hi, i`ve been using Milliput for years and recently decided to try Greenstuff, although i think it is great for basic stuff like fur i find it`s like working with chewing gum when for example making a bodypart.
Is this usual or is it me?

   
Made in gb
Rotting Sorcerer of Nurgle





Portsmouth UK

you can mix the 2 together....
one thing to remember is that for building stuff from scratch you do have to work in layers to get the best result.

Check out my gallery here
Also I've started taking photos to use as reference for weathering which can be found here. Please send me your photos so they can be found all in one place!! 
   
Made in ca
Fireknife Shas'el






jprp wrote:
Hi, i`ve been using Milliput for years and recently decided to try Greenstuff, although i think it is great for basic stuff like fur i find it`s like working with chewing gum when for example making a bodypart.
Is this usual or is it me?


You may want to use an armature inside the bodypart, as well as build up gradually. Green Stuff is more rubbery than Milliput. Where you can work milliput like clay, the green stuff needs some solidity behind it to work detail in.

   
Made in gb
Dakka Veteran




UK, Derbyshire.

The thing i was making was a large pointed ear for a Demon miniature, i`m not sure i could have used an armature like you might for an arm or leg.

   
Made in gb
Nasty Nob






If you want the handling characteristics of milliput (fairly solid, can make sharp edges and flat surfaces) but with more detail, you probably want 'brown stuff' (Privateer Press Brown Aluminium Putty). Haven't actually tried it myself, but it has a good reputation.

For something that works like green stuff but is stronger, takes sharper detail and isn't as sticky, I would recommend Procreate Sculpting Putty (AKA 'grey stuff') without hesitation.

But since you probably want to get the most out of your green stuff, what I would recommend is making a basic form with milliput white or something, then doing only the detail with green stuff.

To stop it sticking to your tools, you should lubricate them a little. Exactly which substance you use depends on how much clean-up you are willing to do after; petroleum jelly (vaseline) makes it easy to keep your tools clean, but you need to be careful to not get it under the green stuff (it will stop it sticking to the model) and wash it off with some kind of degreasing agent (soap should work, but stronger stuff might be better) before applying paint. Silicone lubricants are a bit easier to clean up (just use plenty of water) but more expensive. Water works too, although it is less effective (but it's free and doesn't need to be washed off).

Another trick is to leave it to cure a little before working on it. Generally get it onto the model and into roughly the right shape while it is still very sticky, then leave it for five minutes and see if it sticks to your tools less.

You can mix epoxy putties together, although the one time I tried mixing milliput with green stuff, I didn't like the results.

   
Made in gb
Dakka Veteran




UK, Derbyshire.

All good to know, i`ll be sculpting some armour detail tomorrow so i will put some of this into action-thanks.

   
Made in ca
Fireknife Shas'el






jprp wrote:
The thing i was making was a large pointed ear for a Demon miniature, i`m not sure i could have used an armature like you might for an arm or leg.


I can certainly see how that would be tricky! It sounds like something that would have to be built up gradually rather than sculpted all at one go. I did a lot of green stuff work when I did my Death Guard army and ended up using a lot of bits carved off of sprue plastic as underlying structure for stuff. However, I was building off of existing miniatures, not doing original sculpts, so it was a lot easier to attach plastic (plastic glue) and then work around it.


   
Made in us
Nihilistic Necron Lord






Definitely recommend brown stuff. It'll go generally unworkable after an hour or so, and then overnight will set rock hard. Can be a little brittle if you've got free hanging thin pieces. Holds edges much better for crisper details.

 
   
 
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