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Made in us
Combat Jumping Ragik






Beyond the Beltway

It is an odd truss, TBH. Perhaps a W truss or even the old Kings post truss would work better? The Hut looks very good.

As a sale item, what market are you considering? The Hut looks like it could work for Malifaux-- which has an odd Wild West sensibility to some of its terrain-- but you may need to add something to adjust the height of the doors. Malifaux uses 32mm minis.

   
Made in gb
Aspirant Tech-Adept






Now its painted it looks fantastic, very well done .

I'm assuming because you've designed it to be modular, you could (if you had enough piece's) build bigger,
more intricate multi leveled buildings, or maybe even an entire town.

Sorry got a bit carried away then, but it would be awesome .
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







Good to hear, FenixPhox.
Can't claim to be a musician here (although I did dabble a bit as a hobby), but I pull apart music like that also, probably not to the same extent though.
And, yes, the vocals are just another instrument to me too. Although that's partly to do with my dyslexia; even if I concentrate I don't know what most lyrics are on about.

Thanks Magos'. Glad you like.

Yeah Red, you got me, I did zero research into how the truss should look / work. Hopefully they don't destroy the look for anyone.
Thanks.

As for the market I'm aiming for; anyone that wants a wooden hut.
I tried to not include any elements that would tie it to a specific setting. And the modular nature means I can add more specific things at a later date without having to completely re-design a building.

Well it could be a hut for dwarfs at 32mm scale. They have dwarfs don't they?

Thanks hk.
That is indeed the aim. Multiple kits would allow you to build a larger building, or a differently shaped building (I'm thinking L-shaped, but that would require some clever cutting of the roof, or make your own...). You can even use spare wall sections to make a fence (on their sides, for example).

The door and window can go anywhere you want around the hut, and you can even break sections, cut out planks, etc... to make a damaged building.

The aim is to be as flexible as possible. One kit for an entire town of unique, but aesthetically-matching, houses.


There will be a slight delay in the start of moulding as I have something to build for one of my brothers, so I have to do that before I "convert" my work station to moulding/casting mode.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/05/15 15:20:00



The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
Rogue Inquisitor with Xenos Bodyguards





Eastern edge

Modern setting, a self made place for a crazy old hermit.

Post Apocalyptic? Just another home or safe place from the monsters and marauders out there, or the post nuke weather.

Fantasy setting? anything goes for a non-nobleman

Futuristic, see modern setting. it is flexible so long as the buyer makes it so!

"Your mumblings are awakening the sleeping Dragon, be wary when meddling the affairs of Dragons, for thou art tasty and go good with either ketchup or chocolate. "
Dragons fear nothing, if it acts up, we breath magic fire that turns them into marshmallow peeps. We leaguers only cry rivets!



 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







Right, er, sorry about the radio silence there. I've been busy making a birthday present for one of my brothers.

He wanted a phone dock type thing that will:
a) Hold his current (and possibly future) Phablet.
b) Use his QI wireless charger thing to charge said Phablet.
c) Take up less space than his Phablet laying on top of the charger.
d) match the table that he keeps it on.

So I took a few measurements of his phablet, borrowed one of the chargers, and took a quick photo of the table.

I have since been chopping and glueing sprue and plasticard together to make something solid, practical and nice to look at.

The basic prism shape was the easy part. There has been so many false starts and dead-ends in the making of the rest of it.
The actual charger is a flat disk of about 60mm diameter and 8mm thick and has a wire to plug in to a USB port. It needs to be within ~5mm of the rear of the phone and in a certain area on the back of the phone.

I decided to house the charger block within the "dock", hidden out of sight. But I didn't want to fix the thing inside, in case it needed to be removed/changed. I therefore had to invent a way to hold it in place, close to the front of the box that would become the dock, and that had to be reversible to allow removal and not be difficult to do each time.

The bottom of the void that it would sit in is curved up to meet the far side and pushing the charger into the hole makes it ride up to where it should be. There is a ridge at the bottom and near side that the charger slides past on the way in and out, but hold it in place when inserted. Finally, there is a plastic "leaf spring" that holds the charger against the front of the void.

That all took quite a bit of effort to make it solid and positive in holding the charger, but easy to insert and remove it. That void is sealed off from the rest of the structure, which is filled with plaster to make it heavy and solid (so it doesn't fall over when the phone is placed on it).

Then, I couldn't just have a large hole in the side and decided to add a "door" to hide it.
This went thought many designs, some that would hide the wire as well, but eventually I came to what is just a push-fit "plug" with a small hole for the wire.

Aesthetically, the outside had to match (as close as possible) the table. While it may vary a little in tone and some markings (Yet to see it in place, so won't know how close I've got it until then) it has the important things of being the right design and looks like it's made of wood. It just needs a couple more coats of varnish and it's done.

This is what it looks like:


Once this is out of the way, I'll be into moulding and casting this hut...

I now need to go and catch up with all my sub'd blogs...


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







And so it begins...


The Silicone is in. Won't be cured until 1am though.

I found that I had some silicone left over from last time that I had forgotten about, so I have more that I thought I had, but this stuff is a little thicker that it should be (still seems to work though).


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in gb
Member of a Lodge? I Can't Say





Clacks Scotland

Great progress and a great project! watching the design / build / creative process through all of its stages is really enjoyable!

Cant wait to see the end product!

As my father once said to me : You cant polish a turd... but you can roll it in glitter!
MY P&M BLOG:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/543290.page#5900175



 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







 MagosBiff90 wrote:
Great progress and a great project! watching the design / build / creative process through all of its stages is really enjoyable!
Thanks Magos. Seeing every stage is what I like to see of other people's work, so that's how I post.

Cant wait to see the end product!
Neither can I.

I poured the second half of the first mould last night before bed and woke up to a complete mould.
A little tidying and that mould is more or less ready.

First half of the next mould is in. This has the door in it and I'm interested to see how that turns out...


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
Rogue Inquisitor with Xenos Bodyguards





Eastern edge

The moldening has begun!

"Your mumblings are awakening the sleeping Dragon, be wary when meddling the affairs of Dragons, for thou art tasty and go good with either ketchup or chocolate. "
Dragons fear nothing, if it acts up, we breath magic fire that turns them into marshmallow peeps. We leaguers only cry rivets!



 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







Aaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaand done! Maybe. There may be a few tweaks made, but won't know until I start pushing resin though them.

4 moulds:
Roof,
Roof support,
Other bits (inc' door and window),
Walls.



Now to give them all a good clean, check the cavity volumes and then a test cast to check for any air traps. Then production may begin...


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
Combat Jumping Ragik






Beyond the Beltway

Zero research? Splutter. Not very boffin like at all Doc.

Phone dock is pretty cool.

Interesting use for Legos. It'll be good to see the results of the first cast.

   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







 Red Harvest wrote:
Zero research? Splutter. Not very boffin like at all Doc.
We all slip occasionally.

Phone dock is pretty cool.
Thanks. and was well received.

Interesting use for Legos. It'll be good to see the results of the first cast.
Lego is probably the best thing to use for mould boxes; strong/solid, reusable and adaptable to any shape/size.

Casting tomorrow.


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Fear no evil, fear no death.






I might buy a hut off you if this works out.

My mostly terrain and Sons of Orar blog:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/568699.page#6349942
 whalemusic360 wrote:
Alph, I expect like 90 sets of orange/blue from you.
 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







That's what I like to hear, Stormwall.

OK, so sorting things out took longer than expected, but I think I've got all the mould supports set up to prevent leaks now. Once they are dry (I test with water), I will give them a test, maybe before bed... more than likely tomorrow.

Then we (I) shall know if all the channels and the layout works. Those will then be corrected... and then production... and writing instructions... and completing the display example hut...

Start saving up those pennies.


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Fear no evil, fear no death.






 Dr H wrote:
That's what I like to hear, Stormwall.

OK, so sorting things out took longer than expected, but I think I've got all the mould supports set up to prevent leaks now. Once they are dry (I test with water), I will give them a test, maybe before bed... more than likely tomorrow.

Then we (I) shall know if all the channels and the layout works. Those will then be corrected... and then production... and writing instructions... and completing the display example hut...

Start saving up those pennies.


Any tips of stopping leaks? I took some credit cards and lined my mold wall. Then using keyholes and rubber bands got it as tight as possible without damaging things, and filled it.

Idk if it got air in the channels due to bubbles rising up to the top of my channels/entrance for the resin (meaning I didn't pour enough,) or if it leaked. It appears to be a smidgen of both.

Hopefully I got it fixed. Please post pictures of your efforts. (Within reason. :p)

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/06/03 07:31:52


My mostly terrain and Sons of Orar blog:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/568699.page#6349942
 whalemusic360 wrote:
Alph, I expect like 90 sets of orange/blue from you.
 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







 Stormwall wrote:
Any tips of stopping leaks? I took some credit cards and lined my mold wall. Then using keyholes and rubber bands got it as tight as possible without damaging things, and filled it.
The best way to avoid leaks in your mould is to have a good space in your mould box around the parts you are casting. I think a centimetre or more is recommended. More silicone around the edges means more surface area to seal the mould.
If however, you are like me, you'll probably have less than this to save silicone.

In any case it's also important to get the two halves of your mould to meet up as flat and straight as possible. If this isn't flat and straight then you're not going to get an even pressure around the mould and therefore, leaks.
I spend a lot of time (over and hour per mould) getting the plasticine as flat as possible before pouring the first half of the mould.

Also, the silicone should be nice and thick around the cavity. I think a centimetre depth above the highest point of your parts is recommended. A nice thick mould will again mean that you get good even pressure all around your mould.
If however, you are again like me, you probably won't do this to save silicone. Some of these moulds are very thin in places.

Once you have your mould you want it firmly and evenly held together. I've been using some old flexible chopping mats (other handy pieces of plastic are available in your area) and lots of rubber bands.
This time around though I have also chopped some wood up to use. But I found that I still needed the plastic sheets:
While the wood pieces are the same dimensions as the moulds, the plastic is slightly larger. I have rubber bands around the plastic and this holds the edges of the moulds together. The wood is then placed around that to hold the whole thing flat.

Avoiding leaks is just a matter of seeing where the leak is from the mould and adjusting the position and number of rubber bands around the mould.

However, I am about to experiment with one of these moulds (that still wanted to leak) and using some Vaseline to seal the edge. I'll report back on that when I try it.

Also, pressure. Something to think about when designing the layout of your moulds is bottlenecks. If, on the way though your mould, the resin comes to an excessively narrow part (where a channel meets a part, or a corner, etc.) then the pressure behind this will increase and might force a leak. Making it easier for the resin to pass though the whole mould will mean that there are no pressure spikes and less leaks.

Idk if it got air in the channels due to bubbles rising up to the top of my channels/entrance for the resin (meaning I didn't pour enough,) or if it leaked. It appears to be a smidgen of both.
If you have a leak that is enough to impact on the final cast, then it'll be obvious from a pool/trail of resin under the mould or along the sides, and there will be areas of flash inside the mould. These will help to pinpoint where your leaks are for adjusting the rubber bands etc.

I didn't have much luck with pouring my resin in. As I tend to be casting relatively thin items there isn't enough force produced by gravity to get the resin all the way though my moulds. I therefore use syringes to inject into the inlet of my moulds.

You should be adding enough resin to a mould to fill it all the way to the outlets and then a little more. Depending on the type of resin used, bubbles should rise to the top of the mould, and therefore the exit of the outlets. If you keep adding resin until it comes out the outlets with no bubbles, then all the air (unless it's trapped somewhere) should be gone.

The first resin I used, cured in 10 minutes, and while that's nice for a quick turnaround, it did mean than there's little time to let the resin settle in the mould and bubbles to rise to the top, etc. I now use one that cures in 30 minutes and this gives me the luxury to take my time injecting the moulds, and any bubbles should rise to any of the exits before the resin is too viscous to allow them to move.

Hopefully I got it fixed. Please post pictures of your efforts. (Within reason. :p)
Good luck. It's a learning experience, casting. I'm still learning myself, this is only the third round of casting I've done (although I do a lot of casting each time).

These are pictures of the first test casts.
You can see that for all but one I didn't have enough resin to fill the moulds, but now I can use more in future.
There were no major bubble traps that I noticed, but one of the moulds needed some of the channels widening to allow for better flow though the mould.
The flash is no worse than I've had on previous moulds, although less would be nice.


and back to it...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/06/03 22:26:24



The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
Rogue Inquisitor with Xenos Bodyguards





Eastern edge

Are you using that hard brittle stuff?

"Your mumblings are awakening the sleeping Dragon, be wary when meddling the affairs of Dragons, for thou art tasty and go good with either ketchup or chocolate. "
Dragons fear nothing, if it acts up, we breath magic fire that turns them into marshmallow peeps. We leaguers only cry rivets!



 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







 shasolenzabi wrote:
Are you using that hard brittle stuff?
It's not especially brittle, no. This is Smooth-cast 305 to be exact.


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
Rogue Inquisitor with Xenos Bodyguards





Eastern edge

 Dr H wrote:
 shasolenzabi wrote:
Are you using that hard brittle stuff?
It's not especially brittle, no. This is Smooth-cast 305 to be exact.


Yeah well the Hammers from Poland's Warchimera were bubbled and brittle, it was like working with resin Matzoh

"Your mumblings are awakening the sleeping Dragon, be wary when meddling the affairs of Dragons, for thou art tasty and go good with either ketchup or chocolate. "
Dragons fear nothing, if it acts up, we breath magic fire that turns them into marshmallow peeps. We leaguers only cry rivets!



 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







Ah yes, I remember you bemoaning their resin choice. I can't really give you much of a comparison, as I've only used this stuff (and I've not poked at the resin bits that OMN sent me).

This resin is more brittle than the "usual" polystyrene used for models. But that's not saying much.

It will bend to a certain extent, but will snap if you go too far.
This pdf will tell you everything you need to know about this resin (whether it means anything to you is a short google away....):
http://www.smooth-on.com/tb/files/Smooth-Cast_300q,_300,_305___310.pdf


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
Rogue Inquisitor with Xenos Bodyguards





Eastern edge

Yeah is all Greek to me. It seems the stuff is maybe similar, rigid, so less flex, but the idea they gave was they used something t first for pick akin to the gray resin like that used by Secret weapon, what is received though is the white or yellowed (maybe they were smoking or mixed it wrong?) kit that was not a friendly to many modelers kind of affair as a vehicle model. The bubble and flash of the test run there reminds me of what I received from Warchimera, Not that I would worry much about the material for a representation of a dwelling, they are handled less once the battles start, vehicles must be moved every so often. I had to rework wheels on the first one as the 'axle" broke, so drill and wire fixed that. Then I did the trick with the styrene tubes

"Your mumblings are awakening the sleeping Dragon, be wary when meddling the affairs of Dragons, for thou art tasty and go good with either ketchup or chocolate. "
Dragons fear nothing, if it acts up, we breath magic fire that turns them into marshmallow peeps. We leaguers only cry rivets!



 
   
Made in us
[DCM]
Fear no evil, fear no death.






Would you mind taking a gander at my mold later then? If that isn't too rude of me to ask?

Also, not to pry but, how much do you think these huts will be? I am making a certain fort from Skyrim in it, it needs a tavern for the troops!

Exciting.

My mostly terrain and Sons of Orar blog:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/568699.page#6349942
 whalemusic360 wrote:
Alph, I expect like 90 sets of orange/blue from you.
 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







shasolenzabi wrote:Yeah is all Greek to me. It seems the stuff is maybe similar, rigid, so less flex, but the idea they gave was they used something t first for pick akin to the gray resin like that used by Secret weapon,
This stuff is pretty tough once fully cured. I wouldn't be worried about making a model to be handled out of it. But for things like that, design is important; working to the strengths and avoiding the weaknesses of the material...

what is received though is the white or yellowed (maybe they were smoking or mixed it wrong?) kit that was not a friendly to many modelers kind of affair as a vehicle model. The bubble and flash of the test run there reminds me of what I received from Warchimera, Not that I would worry much about the material for a representation of a dwelling, they are handled less once the battles start, vehicles must be moved every so often. I had to rework wheels on the first one as the 'axle" broke, so drill and wire fixed that. Then I did the trick with the styrene tubes
In the notes for this resin it says that exposure to light will make it yellow over time. Paint and varnish should protect it from this. It doesn't say anything about the material properties being affected, but that may not be true for all "white" resins. Maybe you just got some "old" resin parts that had degraded, maybe not. They could be using a cheaper resin than I am (what I have is not the cheapest available).

The axle of a vehicle is going to be the weak point of a model like that. All the weight has to go through that and it's probably better to have an overly thick axle than a "realistically" scaled one.

I have found that particularly thin parts made in this resin can snap easily (such as the cistern pipe on my Tainted Toilets), and that's why I've avoided any particularly thin pieces on this model.

Stormwall wrote:Would you mind taking a gander at my mold later then? If that isn't too rude of me to ask?
I can have a look, but no promises that I'll be able to fix any or all of your problems, I'm still quite new to this whole casting thing myself. Link me up and I'll have a goosey.

Also, not to pry but, how much do you think these huts will be? I am making a certain fort from Skyrim in it, it needs a tavern for the troops!

Exciting.
Not set yet (set, geddit? ), but looking at the likely volume of resin needed per hut and comparing it to my previous casts I have sold...
... somewhere between £15 and £20, depending on how happy I am with the final kit and how it compares to building kits you can already buy... and depending on what people are willing to pay me for them (I could say £100, but no one would buy any then). Does that sound like a good price (I may also do discounts for buying multiple kits like I have with my bathrooms etc...)?

In related news, I've found that the roof mould is a bit too flexible.
As there is no support within the mould across the whole rood cavity it tends to bow inwards a bit, and this leads to the roof coming out very thin in the middle.
So I'm adding more silicone to that mould as the extra bulk will help to hold the cavity straight.

Also, a note on the vaseline sealing a mould. It didn't hurt the casting, I didn't get a leak, but I'm not sure it was the vaseline that helped or it was just that I got the support for the mould right. This was on the roof mould as well, so further experimentation will be delayed until the new silicone has cured (another 4 hours at least). The extra silicone may also solve the problem anyway and so eliminate the need.

Back to casting...


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
Rogue Inquisitor with Xenos Bodyguards





Eastern edge

Yeah, I do suspect that they did use a cheaper, lower grade resin for the sold kits. the original images of the things were the dark grey stuff like other companies used which is more workable. The things were only 80bucks altogether for 3 of them.

"Your mumblings are awakening the sleeping Dragon, be wary when meddling the affairs of Dragons, for thou art tasty and go good with either ketchup or chocolate. "
Dragons fear nothing, if it acts up, we breath magic fire that turns them into marshmallow peeps. We leaguers only cry rivets!



 
   
Made in gb
Aspirant Tech-Adept






Looks like the casting went well , yeah there's a lot of flashing, but its better than getting a casting full of bubbles.
At least the flashing can be removed.

   
Made in us
[DCM]
Fear no evil, fear no death.






Yep, I have noticed the same HK.

And yeah, depending on how it turns out I would pay 15-20.


My mostly terrain and Sons of Orar blog:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/568699.page#6349942
 whalemusic360 wrote:
Alph, I expect like 90 sets of orange/blue from you.
 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







shasolenzabi wrote:Yeah, I do suspect that they did use a cheaper, lower grade resin for the sold kits. the original images of the things were the dark grey stuff like other companies used which is more workable. The things were only 80bucks altogether for 3 of them.
I suppose it does make a difference if you are casting large solid lumps, but for the number of casts I get per unit volume of resin I won't save much money using a cheaper (and lower quality) resin.

hk1x1 wrote:Looks like the casting went well , yeah there's a lot of flashing, but its better than getting a casting full of bubbles.
At least the flashing can be removed.
Thanks hk'. This round of casting seems to be going quite well. The flash is getting better with each cast, and most of what's there is paper thin (and I usually pull off most of it as soon as it comes out the mould).

There has been a few bubbles trapped here and there. Mostly near the exits (not following my own advice about pushing enough resin through the mould ). The others I am slowly removing by adding more vents (or widening / deepening them).

Stormwall wrote:Yep, I have noticed the same HK.

And yeah, depending on how it turns out I would pay 15-20.
Good good.
And seeing what you can get for 20 squids from airfix or hornby for terrain (not to mention GW), I think it's a good deal.

The added silicone to the roof mould has indeed solved the warping issue and the leak issue too.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2015/06/04 23:42:56



The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
Rogue Inquisitor with Xenos Bodyguards





Eastern edge

Yeah never knowing with others what is on their minds

"Your mumblings are awakening the sleeping Dragon, be wary when meddling the affairs of Dragons, for thou art tasty and go good with either ketchup or chocolate. "
Dragons fear nothing, if it acts up, we breath magic fire that turns them into marshmallow peeps. We leaguers only cry rivets!



 
   
Made in gb
Mastering Non-Metallic Metal







Yeah, I don't often know what's on my own mind, Shas. Never mind anyone else.

Yes, I have been quiet again. I have been casting and it's not the most exciting thing to see (or do).
But I have now finished casting... or more accurately, I've used up all the resin I have and so have stopped.

So how many kits have I produced from a whole pot (well pots as it comes in two parts) of resin?

4. Yes four. Count them. You can count them on the fingers of one hand, 4.
There is also a pile of miscasts about the size of one more hut, but you can't build a hut from that pile.
I was hoping for more than that, but there you go...

I've taken care to pick only the best casts for these kits, but there are still a few little bubbles within some of the parts. Only those that would hold their structural integrity under a firm squeeze from my fingers were allowed in though.

My next job is to complete my example hut (using some casts that will need a little work to fix them), and to write the building instructions for the kit.

Here's some photos to show the full spread of one kit.
Top picture is all one kit,
Then close-ups of the individual parts,
and at the bottom is a scale shot to show just how much resin you get in one kit (compared to a space marine).


So this may become a limited availability kit, as I get so few from a batch of resin. However, if there is a great interest in them I may be forced to increase production somehow...

I shall catch up on everyone's blogs in a bit, expect comments soon.

In other news; I'll be out and about over the weekend, meeting some old friends. I'll be back Sunday (probably with a hangover with any luck...the sign of a good session ). There will therefore be a slight delay in proceedings.


The army- ~2295 points (built).

* -=]_,=-eague Spruemeister General. * A (sprue) Hut tutorial *
Dsteingass - Dr. H..You are a role model for Internet Morality! // inmygravenimage - Dr H is a model to us all
Theophony - Sprue for the spruemeister, plastic for his plastic throne! // Shasolenzabi - Toilets, more complex than folks take time to think about!  
   
Made in us
Near Golden Daemon Caliber





Affton, MO. USA

I've got so much to catch up on its not even funny . The hut is looking good Dr . Have fun with the friends.

LOL, Theo your mind is an amazing place, never change.-camkierhi 9/19/13
I cant believe theo is right.. damn. -comradepanda 9/26/13
None of the strange ideas we had about you involved your sexual orientation..........-Monkeytroll 12/10/13

I'd put you on ignore for that comment, if I could...Alpharius 2/11/14 
   
 
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