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Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Hey all

As I have a plastic Mk1 Land Raider, and it's in a bit of a state, I decided to refurbish it and make it look a bit more like FW's Proteus.

I thought I wouldn't start this until the new year but I'm impatient...

This is what I'm starting with -







I built and painted this 25 years ago, give or take a couple of years. Not sure what I glued it with, but most of it came apart quite easily.


I broke it down as far as I can get it/need to, there was some damage where I used a knife to separate the parts, but nothing that matters or that can't be fixed. I need to start stripping the paint now, that'll be fun. Although the paint is fairly even/thin on most of the model, so I may not bother, and I'll just strip things like the Lascannons, and prime over the top of the original paint on the rest.


Razorback top plate, the original cupola looks like it's the same size as the hole in the Razorback top plate, but I doubt the hole on the original roof is, so the new part will be used instead of the original roof, I will cut off the front plate though and use that.



Side door comparison, unfortunately I only have 1 current plastic Land Raider door (the grey one), as I can't find any for sale online in the usual places, so I'm thinking I'll have to make a 2nd one myself out of styrene sheet -



Razorback turret/weapons sprue and 2 extra Razorback Lascannons for parts for the Twin Heavy Bolter turret and Lascannon barrels, I'll also use the dozer blade -



Parts for the Lascannon mounts, yep they're 25mm and 20mm slottabases, easier to use than cutting out circles of styrene -


I will be remaking the Lascannon mounts to look more like those on FW's Proteus, they should look nicer that way.


Current plastic Land Raider back plate with the exhausts -



Unfortunately that part is a little wider than the original centre section of the tank, so I may have to either a) widen the centre section or b) sand/trim the part to fit. I'm leaning towards option a.

And that's all the parts I have at the moment. I have a couple of Lascannons on their way that I'll be robbing the cables off, and also some styrene half round tube and rods that I need to use for this.


The plan, beside the weapons re-fit, is to also lengthen the tank overall, by 3 track links. I'll take my Dremel to it, chop it in half and do a cut and shut with some styrene sheet, I'll make extra track links to fit the gap in the originals and add a extra road wheel. I will also use styrene sheet to make armour plating similar to the pattern on the Proteus, that'll help disguise my cut and shut and modernise the look a bit more.


Thanks for looking.

This message was edited 31 times. Last update was at 2020/11/28 15:17:31


 
   
Made in gb
Homicidal Veteran Blood Angel Assault Marine





Brookside Close

I have a couple of spares, from when I started a Terminus Ultra but then changed my mind and went with an Angel Infurnus for my relic of the blood.

The doors I had were damaged when I removed them fron the chassis after being poly cemented, I do have lots of las cannons and 3 sensors, you are welcome to have for postage just chuck me a PM.

I would make the doors out of styrene, then it will be more personalised.
I used a couple strips to make the old metal vindicator parts fit onto the mk2 rhino chassis

WIP - Blood Angels Showcase
 queen_annes_revenge wrote:
Straight out if the pot, bang it on. What else is there to know?

 
   
Made in gb
Skillful Swordmaster






Looks like you have another cool project in the offing Rob. Good luck with pulling it all off

Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and mini-Marines, Indomitus soon... hopefully! 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





So, I'm in a bit of a malaise today, not really feeling up to doing much, but I managed to cobble together some templates for my Mk1 Land Raider refurb. For the basic shape of the sponsons that the Lascannons will attach to, and also the armour plating. Basically because I don't trust myself to cut bits and make it up as I go along.

The armour plating on a Proteus is in 3 layers as far as I can tell, so my templates reflect that. I measured the part that goes on the side of the track units of the Mk1 Land Raider, and that is 54mm tall, so I matched the armour to that height. I haven't matched the length however as I've not yet "cut and shut" the Mk1 Land Raider, but the armour plates should be easy enough to adjust for the length, by cutting out of the middle area (or adding to it) if necessary.

I also scanned (on my flatbed scanner) the side piece that goes on the side of the track units, and used photoshop to match that to my templates, so that I know it'll all fit, there'll be a bit of cutting front and back to get the armour plates to the right shape for the Mk1 sides, but that's easy enough to do...

The sponson template (x2 in the top left) is 3 parts, a top, a bottom, and a side, with a hole in the top/bottom for a styrene rod to go though that the Lascannons will attach to. I purposely didn't make the top/bottom circular, because I'm useless at cutting accurate circles out of styrene, it's far easier to cut an octagonal shape. Although I'm thinking the holes are in the wrong place and need to move a little inboard to allow for the Lascannons to be centred and flush with the outside of the octagonal shape. I'll have to have a play around with that part, because if I don't get that right, there's little point in "cutting and shutting" the main body of the tank.

Pic of the template, the black circles are where I'll cut out for the sponson mounts (not entirely sure how I'll cut those circles out accurately), and the black "rectangles" are cut outs for the doors (although I seem to have neglected to allow for the hinges top/bottom on each door! Oops!! I'll cut round the actual door that I have to sort that out...), the black lines are where I'll cut the armour plate and make a gap -




Thanks for looking and many thanks to Rybrook for sending me the Land Raider sensor parts.

This message was edited 6 times. Last update was at 2020/11/28 16:29:51


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





"He's on the jazz, man. He's on the jazz."


So, I made a start on the new lascannon mounts and lascannons tonight...


"I love it when a plan comes together!"


The constituent parts. Couple of things to note - Two half round rods, with full round tops that act as the pins to secure the lascannons in the mounts. The 4 shiny circle things along the top of the photo are neodymium magnets that I'll use to attach the mounts to the Land Raider.


The lascannons and mounts assembled, one is currently loose and won't hold it's position, not sure why, seems to a problem with one of the pins, but I can probably fix that -



I actually managed not to make 2 left mounts! It's almost as though I knew what I was doing!


I will be using this part (I have several of them), and a block (made from styrene) with a half round peg on it which will interact with the pin to make the pin fully round at the bottom, underneath the bottom bracket of each mount, to fully secure the lascannons in the holes in the bottom brackets. Unfortunately they aren't at the right angle to fit properly, so I may try heating one up with a lighter to bend it, as the other option is to cut them to fit.



Some work still to do on these parts but I'm happy with them so far. I plan to add 3mm in thickness to the horizontal brackets (they're currently only 2mm thick), and obviously I need to make the aforementioned blocks that will go underneath each mount and attach the cables to those and the lascannons.

On the top of each mount (attached to each pin) I'll be using the Land Raider sensor parts that Rybrook kindly sent me.

I'll also add a few extra details to the lascannons, like the rod/pipe that runs across part of the top of the barrels, and, if I have room to fit the bottom ones, the fins on the barrel ends for that old school lascannon look.

Not sure if I will make the armour "shield" parts that are on the front of FW's Proteus lascannon mounts, that will involve bending styrene round something and although I have some styrene sheet that is thin enough to bend without heating it up I'm not sure I can make those "shields" properly. I'll have to have a go and see how that turns out...

I also managed to score myself a pair of Dark Angels Land Raider doors!



So, with the new mounts and lascannons pretty much made, I can move on to performing, what currently seems like a non-trivial procedure, the "cut and shut" of the chassis.


Stop! Dremel time!


Thanks for looking.

This message was edited 29 times. Last update was at 2020/12/10 10:29:32


 
   
Made in fi
Focused Fire Warrior






Looking forward to seeing the completed build!

Cheers
   
Made in gb
[DCM]
Procrastinator extraordinaire





Edinburgh, UK

Good progress Rob, looking forward to the next update.

5000 Fir Farillecassion Eldar W/L/D 4th Ed Codex - 14/7/1 6th Ed Codex - 9/1/0 7th Ed Codex - 4/1/1 8th Ed Codex - 20/6/2 9th Ed - 2/1/0
2000 Hive Fleet Zenith
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Instagram, follow for other hobby updates 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Well there's ya problem!

Did the cut today and started the shut. No going back now...





I managed to find a spot where a track link join top and bottom pretty much lined up, so I made my cut there. It helps to have cut where the track link join is (the raised half round piece between each track link) because I can disguise the cut in the tracks with a new track link join made from 5mm styrene half round rod either end of the new section of track links.

The rear deck is temporary, and not glued down, that will be replaced with part of the Razorback top plate and styrene sheet, and joined up with the front. So that hatch that is there now, won't be when this is done. I just put it on to make sure the rear end was squared up right.

I do feel I've made a slight error though, as I was intending to widen the section between the track units, to accommodate the Land Raider Mk III exhaust section, but now that I've started I am not inclined to pull it apart again, and slice down the middle. So, I'll have to trim the Land Raider Mk III exhaust section to fit...

Handily GW's styrene piece for the floor is 1mm thick, the same as my plasticard sheet!

I did try to make the new sections of track links today, but I didn't make enough templates (I only made 2) and they were the wrong size anyway, so it's back to the drawing board for those...

Somehow I need to get that door out of the side armour. I was hoping that when I cut that piece of side armour that the door would just pop out like the other one did. It didn't. Guess I'll have to go the tedious route of cutting round it with a knife. Ho hum.

This message was edited 8 times. Last update was at 2020/12/13 11:20:17


 
   
Made in gb
Skillful Swordmaster






Brave man! There really is no going back now! I have to say though, the proportions are much more aesthetically pleasing with the extra inch or so. Good luck getting that door off without damage to the structure or injury to yourself! Oh and getting the hull back together!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/12/13 15:10:30


Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and mini-Marines, Indomitus soon... hopefully! 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Thanks.

Done some more of it early this morning.








The top plate is loose fit, I haven't glued it down, or the piece at the back that is attaching to the exhaust piece, as I'm still working on those so it's probably best I don't glue them down. The heavy bolter turret ring is glued to the top plate however. The actual heavy bolter turret is a nice press fit into the turret ring, so no need for glue on that, the heavy bolters themselves also press fit to the upright piece, although I will be gluing down the armour piece that sits on top..

Not overly happy with the new track links, yet again my templates were too large, and I ended up having to cut the links down (and made a terrible job of it), and into 3 separate links rather than just a single piece - which made attaching the styrene half round rod pieces a pain in the backside! Hopefully the two remaining sets of new track links I do will turn out a little better and I can stick the first two on the bottom of the track units...

The new track links are not glued down, they're just sat in place, as I need to make some wheels for each new section of track unit. No idea how I'm going to do that though as I don't have any styrene rod that thick, and I'm useless at cutting circles out of styrene. I may also have a problem fitting them due to the way I attached the styrene to fill the gaps top and bottom of the track units, might have to do some hacking away of styrene...

The side armour pieces are taped on only, as I need those to be separate so that I can cut to size, and shape at each end, the side armour plating when I come to attach it. I also need to continue sanding off the details and making the side armour pieces flat, otherwise the first layer of armour plating won't sit right.

Need to do something on the top plate, as it'll look a bit bare otherwise, but that's no big deal.

Getting there though...

This message was edited 14 times. Last update was at 2020/12/14 12:54:27


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Really do seem to be moving along with this one.

Photos, apologies for some blur on them, shaky hands this morning -






Some sanding, filling and smoothing to do, couple of armour plates to add on the sides, seams to deal with, two more sets of new track links, four to eight 8-9mm diameter wheels to make, some detailing on the top plate, some details on the sponsons/lascannons, few other details, like rivets, here and there, and this will be ready for paint.

I'm not overly happy with the gaps around my doors, I think I need to go back and "square" them up a little, my cutting today was all over the place it seems!

I also need to do something about the right hand, as we're looking at the front, lascannon sponson, because I've muffed it up and it doesn't sit level. I know why, the magnet I used isn't level. But I doubt I can remove it easily, as I used baking soda to harden the CA glue I attached it with, and poured it all around the magnet. Think I'm going to have to rebuild that sponson. Should be easy, just remove one or both of the bases from the bracket...

This message was edited 6 times. Last update was at 2020/12/15 10:30:10


 
   
Made in fi
Focused Fire Warrior






Looking good to me! I think you've already tackled and defeated the most difficult parts of the refurb as far as build is concerned. Now its just a matter of nailing the paintjob.

Take your time with the remaining details though! Those small touches like extra bits, headlamps, smokelaunchers, decorative gubbins and riveting make a big difference once the whole model is painted up.

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2020/12/15 10:25:26


 
   
Made in gb
Skillful Swordmaster






Wow, that looks great Rob, the proportions certainly look better. I see what you mean about the door openings, good luck filling and cutting.

Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and mini-Marines, Indomitus soon... hopefully! 
   
Made in ch
Warped Arch Heretic of Chaos





I second that this is an awesome retro refurbishing.
allways a please to see some love for these kits.

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/766717.page
A Mostly Renegades and Heretics blog.

 Daedalus81 wrote:

In the 41st millennium there is only overpriced hamberders.

 
   
Made in au
Bloodthirsty Bloodletter




Australia

Already looking a thousand times better. Sponsons look great!

A really nice project that has been well documented. Thanks for sharing and looking forward to the finished product!

t z you are k 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Thanks guys.

But please don't expect much in the way of painting as I'm not a particularly great painter. Especially when it comes to tanks.

Still lots to do before I get to painting anyhow, I forgot that I need to make the armour plating "wrap around" those side armour parts, so that's another job, as well as the list above and adding a couple of armour plates...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2020/12/18 13:50:32


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Took some quick "where this is at" photos today, mostly to serve as documentation of what I still need to do on this before I start putting paint down...

Among other little bits I did, I added some more details to the Lascannons, fixed the wonky left side sponson (not that it looked wonky in any of the photos), and added some more armour plating, the other day whilst watching Clash of the Titans (1981) on the BBC...








Usually the camera sees more than my eye does, but that doesn't seem to be true in this case as I know there's a gap/hole on the back end of the new armour plating on the left side track unit, there's also a gap either side of the exhaust unit where it meets the rear deck part of the top plate, but you can't really see either of those in these photos. Not using black styrene might have helped spot those better...

Anyhow I have the aforementioned to fill. A gap in the top plate at the back (where it meets the rear deck) and behind the turret ring plate, also to fill. The join in the armour plates that I've added at the front to sand smooth. I'm actually toying with the idea of cutting those plates off, making them two parts, and reattaching them so that there is a slight ridge, instead of it all being 1 piece and flush. I also think I made them too wide, as they almost totally obscure the sponson sensors.

The top plate received some more details, and I will add a few more details to it.

A few more details to add to the Lascannons, mostly in the middle of the old part where there's no detail, a depression, and a hole. I also need to drill out the barrels, ditto on the Heavy Bolters.

I'll be filling the gap around the doors. Wasn't happy with those to start with, and I don't think cutting them "straight" is the best way forwards. Best just to fill them so they're level/flush, and leave them.

The new top track links need a little bit of filing/sanding to finish the shape off.

I took the drivers vision port off, to repair it (the framing on the right hand side was missing), however I've ended up losing it to the carpet monster. I will have to scratchbuild a new one!!

The gearbox, at the front, actually just pushes into place. I dropped the model the other day though, and the front plate came unglued. Which is actually handy as I need to do some detailing/clean up on it...

Rivets need to be added all over. I plan on using 1mm and 2mm styrene rod for that. Cutting those to size will be a tedious/pita job. And I will need to put back some of the road wheel spindle ends (those round bits on the outside of the track unit where each road wheel is) as I've removed some during construction and may end up removing more when sanding.

I also need to fill the seams in the tracks. I will do this by using "goop", applied to the seam, and then sand it back where needed. "goop" is styrene sheet mixed with Tamiya Extra Thin cement. This bonds to the original plastic around it and creates an easily sandable filler, it also dries very quickly. It's basically more plastic when it dries.

Some join/gap filling where the new armour plating meets the old plastic and general overall sanding and smoothing to be done.


Sounds like a lot but it's mostly little bits that should be quite quick to do.

This message was edited 14 times. Last update was at 2020/12/27 13:26:52


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Decided to do some more of this today...

Photos, quick one's taken with my mobile -





Close up of the detail I added to the lascannons to disguise holes and depressions, and the filling I've done on the door gaps -



Back end, not much going on here, but I have filled the gaps, not that you can see it at the moment -


Magnets, seeing as I've never posted a pic of how the lascannons attach -



The details I've added to the top, I'm stuck for ideas on what else to add in that barren mid area -



Still to do -

Little bit of styrene to add to the sponsons to bulk out the shape between the brackets and the round bases.

Remake the drivers vision port. The original part has been lost to the warp.

Front plate detailing - just some styrene strip I need to add, preferably on a day when I can cut straight...

Rivets all over...

Seam filling and sanding in track links. I'm not sure how that's going to go, and I need to thin down my pot of "gloop" before I make a start on it.

The filling on the doors needs a second pass in places. I used Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty for that job, as you can wipe away the excess with a cotton bud and water, something you can't do with "gloop".

There's also still a slight gap at the back where the top plate meets the rear deck, but as the top plate isn't glued down yet and won't be until I'm happy that I won't need to remove it, that gap will have to wait a while...

Still a couple of gaps to fill in the join between the new armour plating and the old plastic, round the back...


Getting there though...

This message was edited 5 times. Last update was at 2021/01/13 13:06:41


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





And I'm just about ready for an undercoat.

Had a riveting couple of hours this morning...






The rivets are a tad "over done" I feel but I don't have any styrene rod that is a size between what I've used and the size I used on the sponsons. I think the rivets on the sponsons are 1mm rod, whilst the rest of the rivets are 2mm rod.

Looks like a motion capture thing at the moment!


Still need to drill the barrels out, and make a driver's vision port, but they can be done after I've put some paint down. And I need to add the cables that go under the sponsons going inboard towards the hull, but they need to be done last so that I can still get the lascannons off the sponsons for painting.

Some slight work on the sponsons also where I've added styrene to bulk out the top/bottom of each bracket.

Dozer blade to mount also...

Can't think of anything else that needs doing, hopefully nothing major will spring to mind after I put down the undercoat, and hopefully no further filling/sanding will be needed. Although there are a few things I've not done, on purpose, because you can't really see them when I photograph this model...

This message was edited 5 times. Last update was at 2021/01/15 14:11:45


 
   
Made in fi
Focused Fire Warrior






Looking good! I dont mind the rivet diameter so much, but they're quite chunky maybe? If you feel like they are too prominent, perhaps you could still cut them to be slightly less tall, so they wouldn't stick out from the hull so much?

I was thinking about the barren area on the top plate, perhaps you could fit some sort of closed access hatch there to fill up the empty space?

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2021/01/15 14:45:26


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





 tauist wrote:
Looking good! I dont mind the rivet diameter so much, but they're quite chunky maybe? If you feel like they are too prominent, perhaps you could still cut them to be slightly less tall, so they wouldn't stick out from the hull so much?

I was thinking about the barren area on the top plate, perhaps you could fit some sort of closed access hatch there to fill up the empty space?



Thanks, yeah I'll give the rivets another couple of passes with my sanding stick tomorrow. Slightly worried about going too low and ending up sanding into the armour plating though, some of the rivets were getting a bit difficult to get at, but I'll see how I go. Might get my Dremel out and see if that helps...

A hatch sounds good. I still have the original hatch from the Land Raider, I may have a go at test fitting it tomorrow and see how it looks, forgot I had it to be honest.

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2021/01/15 16:40:45


 
   
Made in au
Bloodthirsty Bloodletter




Australia

Clunky rivets are super early 40k to me. Hell, old space marines had shoulder pads covered in them!

I am really enjoying reading your updates, Rob. It's a bit like following along an old timey car enthusiast's restoration project.

I can't remember the last time I saw a 40k tank with a dozer blade on it - Choo Choo xeno scum!

t z you are k 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Got a coat of paint on the main bit of the Land Raider.








I am not 100% happy with it, there are areas that still need work, gaps, rough surfaces, couple of bits aren't straight etc., but I'm fed up with fettling, sanding and filling, so it'll have to do. Just hope it doesn't come back to bite me as I get the feeling the areas in question will be hard to disguise with a Deathwing paint job...

My excuse - it's a battle worn piece of antiquity!

On the upside the rivets seems to have blended in nicely, especially after I've given them another sanding this morning.

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2021/01/16 17:26:52


 
   
Made in fi
Focused Fire Warrior






The rivets dont seem to stick out so much anymore. Overall its looking good to my eye now, other than for the sides where you cut them, the lines where you added lenght are still showing. To be more specific, left side of the hull looks good enough, the right side lines could maybe still use a bit of filling somehow..? The doors are looking great, you did a fine job filling the seams there!

Are you going to add any extra bits like smoke lauchers etc?

This message was edited 3 times. Last update was at 2021/01/16 18:08:28


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Thanks, yeah I know, those lines you mention are some of the problem areas that I'm fed up with filling and sanding. I've been over them quite a few times now and they always feel smooth even though they obviously don't look it. They'll just have to stay as they are. Perhaps at some point recently the servitors had to replace those sections of armour plating and didn't do a very good job of it.

I'm wondering if I can get away with putting a line of small rivets (same size as I used on the sponsons) either side of each of those lines, and treat the lines as panel lines...

I may add smoke launchers, currently waiting on a pair that I've just ordered. Strangely, and despite the fact that the picture in the 9th edition SM codex shows a Land Raider armed with them, there don't appear to be any rules for smoke launchers, it's not even an upgrade option!!

I'll be adding back the original closed hatch (the squared one), I'll put it in that barren mid area of the top plate as you suggested, although first I'll have to strip the paint off the hatch, and do some sanding on it's back side as it was a little too raised for my liking when I did a test fit this afternoon.

This message was edited 13 times. Last update was at 2021/01/16 19:07:25


 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





OK so, I did a little more of this today, and yesterday, finally managed to get those joins to not be so obvious, yeah I know, I said I'd be leaving them as is...


Joins, what joins? The paint I put down was still drying off when I took these photos -




Made and added the drivers vision port and the brackets for the dozer blade. I don't know if it's my photos, or what, but the drivers vision port looks off center!?! Grrr!


I also added the hatch back to the top plate.



If anyone is interested, I solved the problem with the obviously visible joins along the top under the tracks, by taking a Dremel with a grinding bit and "smoothing" the affected areas, then I skimmed those areas with some Deluxe Materials Perfect Plastic Putty, then I sanded the result of all that down a little to further smooth it.

I still have some roughness to sand off on the joins on the bottom, but I can do that first the next time I do any of this model.

Definitely ready to put some proper paint down on this now!

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/01/20 19:57:02


 
   
Made in gb
Skillful Swordmaster






The cut and shut job is definitely much better hidden now. Very much worth the extra effort! I can’t remember if you’ve said already, but will it be Green or Bone coloured?

Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and mini-Marines, Indomitus soon... hopefully! 
   
Made in ch
Warped Arch Heretic of Chaos





This indeed is a really nice refurbishment rob.

I doubt the driver port is actually all that much off center, at most slightly to the left from viewer perspecitve, what could irk you in that regard is the shadow from the thread?

https://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/766717.page
A Mostly Renegades and Heretics blog.

 Daedalus81 wrote:

In the 41st millennium there is only overpriced hamberders.

 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





 gobert wrote:
The cut and shut job is definitely much better hidden now. Very much worth the extra effort! I can’t remember if you’ve said already, but will it be Green or Bone coloured?


Bone. Difficult to hide some of the crimes still there (they'd be better hidden by the darker green scheme), but I've bought paint and decal paper (just for a couple of Deathwing symbols, nothing fancy) to suit so I'm going to plough on...

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2021/01/21 15:28:11


 
   
Made in fi
Focused Fire Warrior






You've covered the side seams perfectly now! Good work.

The driver window does indeed look a lil off center looking at the photos. Its easy to determine the offset by taking a picture from the front face and counting the pixels in photoshop, paint or other pixel based graphics program.

If you cannot reposition the vision slit anymore, you could consider adding some purity seal or a small targeter etc technopiece next to the slit to hide to fact that its not 100% centered if it bothers you? Making the negative space around the slit unsymmetrical and all that..

But you're doing great dude!

PS: I believe smoke launchers are a stratagem now in 9th edition (?)

PPS: I am zooming in to the top hatch and it also looks like the new hatch up there isn't in a perfect 90 degree angle in relation to the top plate either? Ever so slightly tilted to one side.. but it could just be the picture, dont stress about it! I dont think these small things will catch anyone's eye at the tabletop (I'm just OCD like that, apologies!)

This message was edited 4 times. Last update was at 2021/01/21 17:45:16


 
   
 
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