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I am new to using milliput and green stuff on models. I haven't started yet, but have milliput standard (white box red letters) and was told by a couple of my friends that with green stuff you need to use glue to keep it attached to the model. I was wondering if that was also the case with Milliput or if it would stick to the model without glue.

IIRC, green stuff is stickier than milliput, but it's been some years since I used milliput. You don't necessarily need glue for either, as both will stick to models, but it's not a particularly strong bond. Small details are generally fine, but if you're using it to fill in joints, or attach large pieces of detail, then yes, a small drop of superglue where the putty attaches to the model can be helpful.

You don't need glue to stick either. Both will stick to the model no problem. If adhesion is a worry just rough up the surface a little. You can also mix the 2 to get a product with the advantages of both.

From personal experience it's really hard to get milliput to stick, but it's great for filling spaces and gaps. Where as green stuff is vastly superior if you want to 'sculpt' something like hair or fur, or little details.

Milliput cures harder and sands better.
Sanding better makes it better for gap filling (although for small gaps I prefer 'Tamiya sprue goo').
Curing harder means it can also be better for modeling inorganic shapes like guns or swords, where Greenstuff would be a bit floppy.

On the flipside, Milliput can get a bit slimy if you use too much water, which makes it awkward for modelling with which is where Greenstuff shines.

You can also mix the two to get the benefits of both.

I do agree that Milliput doesn't stick that well itself, particularly to smooth plastic. But it's easy enough to apply superglue before the milliput. It'll be glued fast once the milliput cures.

 kirotheavenger wrote:
Milliput cures harder and sands better.
Sanding better makes it better for gap filling (although for small gaps I prefer 'Tamiya sprue goo').

Thanks! These prices about right?

How to: https://www.fauxhammer.com/tutorials/how-to-fill-gaps-seams-on-miniatures/#Sprue-Goo
Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000BMYWYC/ref=ox_sc_act_title_1?smid=A11NA3WFZLJXIP&psc=1
eBay: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2322090.m570.l1313&_nkw=Tamiya+87038+Extra+Thin+Cement+Plastic+Model+Glue+-+40ml&_sacat=0

I've also used Vallejo Plastic Putty. I prefer the tube. No kneading, so good for boardgame plastics. I've gotten away with multiple applications of thinned putty on metal, but am iffy about it.
https://www.miniaturemarket.com/val70400.html

Engraving pens are useful for getting rid of mold lines. Harbor Freight is a better deal, if you can get free shipping. Get some rechargeable batteries, too.
https://www.harborfreight.com/micro-engraver-98227.html
https://www.amazon.com/FOLAI-Electric-Engraving-Engraver-Jewellery/dp/B01M6X5KWV/ref=sr_1_5?dchild=1&keywords=engraving+pen&qid=1628611898&sr=8-5

 KingmanHighborn wrote:
From personal experience it's really hard to get milliput to stick, but it's great for filling spaces and gaps. Where as green stuff is vastly superior if you want to 'sculpt' something like hair or fur, or little details.

I have to agree with KingmanHighborn on this one. I have only used milliput on large terrain and ship models. The Green stuff equivalent for sculpting and detail work.

My two cents,

CB

I use all three regularly; green stuff, milliput, and hybrid mix of the two. Each one is best for different jobs.

Milliput sculpts hard edges better, and smooths more easily. Green stuff is best where the part might be under a lot of flex and needs to not break, like pointy horns or tentacles. A hybrid favouring milliput is ideal for casting replacement parts, as the slight flexibility makes it close to HIPS plastic in feel and retaining good detail while avoiding too much fragility/brittleness. For very thin parts or parts that get a lot of stress (weapons, horse tails, etc), I use GS with a metal armature for strength.

Green stuff sticks better, especially fresh, but is more rubbery and harder to smooth into tiny cracks or seams. Milliput doesn't want to be made into very thin sheets or ropes, and takes a softer touch when sculpting because it doesn't have much stiffness when uncured.

I don't usually use glue to stick things to a model unless it needs it. Sculpt it right on, only if the attachment point is small then go for the glue. Otherwise give it a wiggle after it's cured, and glue if necessary. Gap filling does not require supplementary glue, neither does working putty around a large surface or support pieces - for example a textured scenic base. Incorporating pinning into the build for offset parts also results in a stronger final product than glue.