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Made in us
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain






A Protoss colony world

Title pretty much says it; this thread is for posting what your current 3D printing project is, if you so desire. Kind of like how the video game forum has a "What are you playing right now?" thread, and the general discussions has "What are you doing right now (Hobbywise only)". Same idea, but for 3D printing!

I'm currently printing a proxy model for an Adeptus Custodes Caladius Grav-tank. It's gonna take like a total of 2-3 more prints after my current one to get the whole thing printed, then I gotta assemble the beast. No presupports either, I get to do all the work myself.

My armies (re-counted and updated on 4/26/22, including modeled wargear options):
Dark Angels: ~18000 | Space Marines (Blood Ravens and others): ~900 | Space Wolves: ~5000
Astra Militarum: ~800 | Adeptus Custodes: ~1100 | Imperial Knights: ~1300 | Sisters of Battle: ~4300
Check out my P&M Blogs: ZergSmasher's P&M Blog | Imperial Knights blog | Total models painted in 2021: 114 | Total models painted in 2022: 18 | Current main painting project: Imperial Knights
 Mr_Rose wrote:
Who doesn’t love crazy mutant squawk-puppies? Eh? Nobody, that’s who.
 
   
Made in fi
5th God of Chaos (O'rly?)





https://www.printablescenery.com/product/raised-shroom-caverns/

Biggest piece from this set.

Still about 20h to go :/ Certainly not fast process. Just have to hope nothing goes wrong with the print.

2022 painted/bought: 307/419 
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut




Notre Dame cathedral for Adeptus Titanicus. Possibly under-scale compared to reality, but big enough for a Warhound to hide behind...
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







Working my way through the hive tiles from this kickstarter https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/popovlaboratory/3d-printable-hive-city/description



Also picked up some rather nice sci-fi/cyberpunk space station crew and police types from PrintMinis that I'm setting up. Still trying to get 20micron layer height working for me. I have really robust 30micron settings, but I just keep getting fails at the lower height.

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-the-watch-cyberpunk-police-modular-night-market-collection-208946

https://www.myminifactory.com/object/3d-print-space-station-crew-modular-in-orbit-collection-200208

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

Doing the final assembly on my USS St Louis LKA 116 RC ship and in the middle of printing the USS California BB 44. The Lou is about 42" and the California will be about 48" I am doing the hull pieces on my Ender 3 Pro and the upper sections on my Elegoo Saturn.

California: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5239831
St. Louis: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:5198907
[Thumb - Calif.JPG]

[Thumb - st lou-B.jpg]

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2022/03/29 12:44:37


My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in us
Is 'Eavy Metal Calling?





Affton, MO. USA

Currently printing an Armiger for 40K. The first plate came out great, started the second plate before I left for work this morning. might get one in before bed and the last overnight tonight. Poor little photon mono

Have sliced up a Fire Raptor file I found and look forward to getting it printed in the next week. Only partway through designing the plates (3 so far) probably 5 or six depending on if I print the different turrets or not.

Sadly my build plate is small and I have one dead light. Luckily it is along one of the short edges and I can work around it.

LOL, Theo your mind is an amazing place, never change.-camkierhi 9/19/13
I cant believe theo is right.. damn. -comradepanda 9/26/13
None of the strange ideas we had about you involved your sexual orientation..........-Monkeytroll 12/10/13

I'd put you on ignore for that comment, if I could...Alpharius 2/11/14 
   
Made in fi
5th God of Chaos (O'rly?)





Got the print done so skull filled pit next. Now with higher quality settings as last one's skulls weren't that good. Print time more than doubles but lf skulls look like skulls...

2022 painted/bought: 307/419 
   
Made in si
Ravenous Beast Form







I'm taking a break but here's a few recent plates.


Man o War Chaos Dwarf fleet by Nathan Hunt who made it his life goal to resculpt all the original ships


Man o War Dark Elves with hard surfaces by me, draught beasts remixed from Schlossbauer (check him out, he uploads a new monster every few days for free)


Turnip28 heads by Saint Decent (make sure to grab her catgirl SoB heads) and basing bits by Pellinor1 (so many free bits)


And finally a few plates of Warmaster Vampire Counts by Forest Dragon

In case anyone's wondering... I snap a photo of every plate when slicing and reference it when I remove the plate from the printer to easily see if anything failed.

Posters on ignore list: 34

40k Potica Edition - 40k patch with reactions, suppression and all that good stuff. Feedback thread here.

Gangs of Nu Ork - Necromunda / Gorkamorka expansion supporting all faction. Feedback thread here
   
Made in us
Is 'Eavy Metal Calling?





Affton, MO. USA

@ Lord Blackfang. I need to get into that habit as I have a void due to a blown out light in my Photon Mono. I've learned to build my plates around it, but it would be a good habit. Usually when I am printing off a "Project" I scribble down all the parts of each plate on a sheet of paper along with print times and ml uses of resin. That also lets me remember how much each item is costing me. Example: The current Fire-raptor gunship I am printing is a total of 8 build plates for me, though 1 is alternate weapons. 419ml of Resin, I forget how many printing hours. So roughly $12.15 materials wise to print a $209 kit.

LOL, Theo your mind is an amazing place, never change.-camkierhi 9/19/13
I cant believe theo is right.. damn. -comradepanda 9/26/13
None of the strange ideas we had about you involved your sexual orientation..........-Monkeytroll 12/10/13

I'd put you on ignore for that comment, if I could...Alpharius 2/11/14 
   
Made in us
Courageous Questing Knight





Texas

Great idea when filling a plate to take a snapshot. One observation and not sure if it matters to you, but when I have multiple pieces on the plate I will scoot them together not only to save a bit of space, but more importantly to make it much easier to pry off the plate. This way i can get under just one corner and it all support bases are touching it will allow the whole plate to be peeled off. Now this does mean all parts are somewhat connected at the base, but I find that minor compared to prying off each piece individually.

My Novella Collection is available on Amazon - Action/Fantasy/Sci-Fi - https://www.amazon.com/Three-Roads-Dreamt-Michael-Leonard/dp/1505716993/

 
   
Made in si
Ravenous Beast Form







 MDSW wrote:
Great idea when filling a plate to take a snapshot. One observation and not sure if it matters to you, but when I have multiple pieces on the plate I will scoot them together not only to save a bit of space, but more importantly to make it much easier to pry off the plate. This way i can get under just one corner and it all support bases are touching it will allow the whole plate to be peeled off. Now this does mean all parts are somewhat connected at the base, but I find that minor compared to prying off each piece individually.


That's the convenient way for sure but recently I've heard that the bigger the combined raft, the more chance it peels off the build plate because of resin shrinkage.

Posters on ignore list: 34

40k Potica Edition - 40k patch with reactions, suppression and all that good stuff. Feedback thread here.

Gangs of Nu Ork - Necromunda / Gorkamorka expansion supporting all faction. Feedback thread here
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







That’s not a problem I’ve had. I use flexiplates and a nice big combined raft has been rock solid each time.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain






A Protoss colony world

Temperature in my apartment has finally gotten reasonable for printing again (not willing to foot the heating bills to maintain in at 75F in the winter), so I've finally gotten more parts of my Caladius printed. I might be able to squeeze the remaining parts onto a single build plate, but I'm not sure once I get supports and their associated rafts on it. This is part of why I want to get a new printer; I really would like a bigger build plate (plus a mono screen would be great for faster prints).

My armies (re-counted and updated on 4/26/22, including modeled wargear options):
Dark Angels: ~18000 | Space Marines (Blood Ravens and others): ~900 | Space Wolves: ~5000
Astra Militarum: ~800 | Adeptus Custodes: ~1100 | Imperial Knights: ~1300 | Sisters of Battle: ~4300
Check out my P&M Blogs: ZergSmasher's P&M Blog | Imperial Knights blog | Total models painted in 2021: 114 | Total models painted in 2022: 18 | Current main painting project: Imperial Knights
 Mr_Rose wrote:
Who doesn’t love crazy mutant squawk-puppies? Eh? Nobody, that’s who.
 
   
Made in si
Ravenous Beast Form








Bat Swarms by RMPrintableTerrain. Those 2" long almost horizontal 0.2mm presupports are giving me anxiety. Also 10mm Dark Elf taster.


Turnip28 objectives by h_u_r_a_k_a_n (free)


Orc Santa on foot and with sleigh by Onmioji, because why not


Gaslands templates from thingiverse

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2022/04/12 12:36:14


Posters on ignore list: 34

40k Potica Edition - 40k patch with reactions, suppression and all that good stuff. Feedback thread here.

Gangs of Nu Ork - Necromunda / Gorkamorka expansion supporting all faction. Feedback thread here
   
Made in gb
Incorporating Wet-Blending





Wales: Where the Men are Men and the sheep are Scared.

Redmakers Leman Russ Proxy.

I really like the design of it.



 
   
Made in us
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain






A Protoss colony world

 carlos13th wrote:
Redmakers Leman Russ Proxy.

I really like the design of it.

I recently had a look at Red Makers' stuff, and I'm thinking I might just download their Scions proxies (and the Taurox). Printing vehicles is a bit of a PITA on my Photon S's build plate, but I can do it as long as I don't mind doing 5-6 plates for one model.

My armies (re-counted and updated on 4/26/22, including modeled wargear options):
Dark Angels: ~18000 | Space Marines (Blood Ravens and others): ~900 | Space Wolves: ~5000
Astra Militarum: ~800 | Adeptus Custodes: ~1100 | Imperial Knights: ~1300 | Sisters of Battle: ~4300
Check out my P&M Blogs: ZergSmasher's P&M Blog | Imperial Knights blog | Total models painted in 2021: 114 | Total models painted in 2022: 18 | Current main painting project: Imperial Knights
 Mr_Rose wrote:
Who doesn’t love crazy mutant squawk-puppies? Eh? Nobody, that’s who.
 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Holland , Vermont



This and several other new tau stuff, including a couple fully magnatized suits, these have been some of the best files I have purchased even in some cases have full plates pre supported that print perfectly.

If you are interested in my P&M for my Unified Corp Tau check here ----http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/282731.page
My planetary profile and background story for my Tau is here------http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/351631.page
War Field Boss Marshul Grimdariun's Panzuh Korps http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/353354.page
Tau Prototypes Technical readouts and Data sharing (for all Tau players )http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/412232.page 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

I very nearly backed Pipermakes for that model. I just had to resist as I don't need a whole tau force as well as other stuff. But yep she does some amazing work and lots of modularity with magnetic slots.

Print Hunter
Check out the latest 3D print model releases!  
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Holland , Vermont

yup I have bought half her collection so far and they are a joy to work with, just slap it on the build plate , slice, and print, even a crammed saturn plate printed perfectly.
I look forward to building and painting them very soon.

If you are interested in my P&M for my Unified Corp Tau check here ----http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/282731.page
My planetary profile and background story for my Tau is here------http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/351631.page
War Field Boss Marshul Grimdariun's Panzuh Korps http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/353354.page
Tau Prototypes Technical readouts and Data sharing (for all Tau players )http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/412232.page 
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







That is a lovely model. good luck with the print!

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in us
Potent Grey Knight Librarian





Fort Worth, TX

Nothing very fancy at the moment. Printing out Ultramarines shoulderpads for the legion I'm building, along with boarding shields.

I did print one of those articulated dragons over the weekend. It was a pain to remove from the build plate, but I got it all off without breaking. It's cool, I need to try printing more of them.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2022/04/14 14:16:12


"Through the darkness of future past, the magician longs to see.
One chants out between two worlds: Fire, walk with me."
- Twin Peaks
"You listen to me. While I will admit to a certain cynicism, the fact is that I am a naysayer and hatchetman in the fight against violence. I pride myself in taking a punch and I'll gladly take another because I choose to live my life in the company of Gandhi and King. My concerns are global. I reject absolutely revenge, aggression, and retaliation. The foundation of such a method... is love. I love you Sheriff Truman." - Twin Peaks 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





Holland , Vermont

@Tannhauser42 I love being able to print shoulders with chapter and squad markings already on it.... man I wish I had all the options when I first started this hobby .

If you are interested in my P&M for my Unified Corp Tau check here ----http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/282731.page
My planetary profile and background story for my Tau is here------http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/351631.page
War Field Boss Marshul Grimdariun's Panzuh Korps http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/353354.page
Tau Prototypes Technical readouts and Data sharing (for all Tau players )http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/412232.page 
   
Made in us
Grim Dark Angels Interrogator-Chaplain






A Protoss colony world

I'm currently printing some of Red Makers' not-Militarum Tempestus, mostly just to see how my machine handles a crowded build plate. Unfortunately, I was only able to crowd about 4 minis (total of 17 parts) on it. This is why I want to get a bigger printer. The Photon S is nice, but its build plate is not large (plus it's an RGB, so nowhere near as fast as a mono screen).

My armies (re-counted and updated on 4/26/22, including modeled wargear options):
Dark Angels: ~18000 | Space Marines (Blood Ravens and others): ~900 | Space Wolves: ~5000
Astra Militarum: ~800 | Adeptus Custodes: ~1100 | Imperial Knights: ~1300 | Sisters of Battle: ~4300
Check out my P&M Blogs: ZergSmasher's P&M Blog | Imperial Knights blog | Total models painted in 2021: 114 | Total models painted in 2022: 18 | Current main painting project: Imperial Knights
 Mr_Rose wrote:
Who doesn’t love crazy mutant squawk-puppies? Eh? Nobody, that’s who.
 
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





I haven't been printing because I can't tolerate the fumes and haven't figured out a good solution to manage them yet. But I've taken some ForestDragon 10mm 3D models, upscaled them to about 12 to 13mm, and put them on half scale WHFB style bases for the purpose of playing half scale WHFB, here's some Saurus Warriors waiting to be printed...

   
Made in si
Ravenous Beast Form







Have you done that before? I don't expect those supports to survive the peel force of a full plate sized solid layer.

Posters on ignore list: 34

40k Potica Edition - 40k patch with reactions, suppression and all that good stuff. Feedback thread here.

Gangs of Nu Ork - Necromunda / Gorkamorka expansion supporting all faction. Feedback thread here
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





 lord_blackfang wrote:
Have you done that before? I don't expect those supports to survive the peel force of a full plate sized solid layer.
Nah haven't tried it yet, I supported each model individually then grouped them in batches of 10, so I can go back and rearrange them pretty easily if need be.

How do you reckon it should be done? Do you mean it'll be a problem when it tries to print the bases and nearly the entire screen is exposed for those few layers, or do you just mean in general it's too densely packed/too little supports?

The supports are pretty small but there's a ton of them, they're not just on the edge of the base but also another 20-30 under the middle of each base. There's also a slight gap between each model. I got the idea off someone else who printed a lot of small models and did a similar thing, though these are probably a bit bigger than the ones he was printing.

   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

So a few thoughts

1) When those bases start it will generate a huge amount of pull force on the FEP all at once. That will have three effects

a) It will pull the FEP up more so than normal so chances are it might not even fully separate. You can get around this by increasing your lift height though.

b) It puts a lot of strain on the supports all at once. It might well just pull the first layer or two of those bases straight off the support columns.

c) Remember that regular layers are exposed less so they have less strength than the raft layers; this means that if the supports manage to hold onto the bases, there's a greater chance of the bases tearing and ripping layer by layer - delaminating.

d) All three of the above happen at once, resulting in a mess.

2) Printing flat like that is more likely to increase layerline effects and such on the bases and models.





Personally I would do one of a few things

1) Print the bases directly on the build plate. Why bother with supports when you can just print flat on the build plate itself. This might well get around many of the issues noted above, however there's a good chance that you will get the "elephant's foot" effect whereby earlier layers end up slightly enlarged over the latter ones. There are ways to mitigate this in most slicer software and there are manual ways too so you can google for those solutions on the Elephants Foot effect of SLA 3d printing.

2) Tilt the bases to a 30degree or so angle and then support. This assumes the models remain part of the bases as one part. This gets around a lot of the issues as now the base isn't one big layer, but many layers spread out so the pull force is much less.
This might make supporting more complicated, esp as these are already small models and you've got them on the bases themselves. So getting into some areas might be tricky, so angling might be a big factor.



At the very least I'd space them out more so that the bases don't basically create one huge single object that you'd have to break up after. By all means keep things tight, but not so tight they are touching.

Print Hunter
Check out the latest 3D print model releases!  
   
Made in au
Grizzled Space Wolves Great Wolf





Thanks for the tips.

Would you be worried the supports would actually break off and float in the vat, or just not pop off the FEP? If it's the latter I'm tempted to try it just to see what happens, lol, but obviously if you think stuff is going to break off and float in the VAT then that risks damaging the screen so I wouldn't want to try it. I have seen other folks print small models like this, but they would have been smaller models than I'm trying to do (8mm scale compared to these which are 13-ish mm scale).

 Overread wrote:
1) Print the bases directly on the build plate. Why bother with supports when you can just print flat on the build plate itself. This might well get around many of the issues noted above, however there's a good chance that you will get the "elephant's foot" effect whereby earlier layers end up slightly enlarged over the latter ones. There are ways to mitigate this in most slicer software and there are manual ways too so you can google for those solutions on the Elephants Foot effect of SLA 3d printing.
Yeah, part of the reason I did it this way is because I wanted a nice sharp edge on the bases without having to tune out the elephants foot. I put reverse chamfers on the raft touching the build plate so that when I come to remove them it grabs on the spatula

Another part of the reason is that the bases are hollow underneath (the same as GW bases) so if I printed them directly on the bed they would only be touching the build plate on their edges and there wouldn't be enough space to fit supports underneath the middle, so I imagined that'd be instant fail, but yeah I guess if I also tilted them that'd work.


2) Tilt the bases to a 30degree or so angle and then support. This assumes the models remain part of the bases as one part. This gets around a lot of the issues as now the base isn't one big layer, but many layers spread out so the pull force is much less.
This might make supporting more complicated, esp as these are already small models and you've got them on the bases themselves. So getting into some areas might be tricky, so angling might be a big factor.


Yeah, I spent some time in Blender resculpting bits to get rid of islands when they were printed flat, and did the supports 1 model at a time, so it'd be a bit annoying to have to redo the supports, lol, but if it's unlikely to work I guess I'll have to do that. I wasn't too worried about layer lines on the bases themselves.

I was already thinking I might abandon the half scale WHFB project because of how much of a time sink it is getting models based and supported versus just printing the Warmaster strips as they come from Forest Dragon, lol.

At the very least I'd space them out more so that the bases don't basically create one huge single object that you'd have to break up after. By all means keep things tight, but not so tight they are touching.
The bases themselves aren't touching as I figured they'd want space to individually expand/contract/bend, but do you mean move them far enough apart that the rafts aren't touching either?
   
Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I have more Necromunda tiles lined up ready to go, but we’re just about to get a new puppy so I don’t really want loads of fumes everywhere. Might need to pause the printing for a while :(

Oh well, I have a substantial pile of cured resin lovely’s already, and I can always get the FDM warmed up again

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

Terranwing - w3;d1;l1
51st Dunedinw2;d0;l0
Cadre Coronal Afterglow w1;d0;l0 
   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




UK

Skink. If the supports broke I'd expect you to just end up with the columes and tips on the FEP and the mass of resin of the bases starting to be stuck on the FEP. Of course things could fracture and snap and float around. I wouldn't expect it, but it could happen.

Tilting the bases does mean going back and working on the models again and adjusting things. It's more work yes, but I think tilting just removes so many potential printing errors that can arrise from the pattern you've got now.


When it comes to spacing out my worry would be that the bases almost touching might end up actually touching so you'd have a bit of an issue with separating and cleaning them up .It doesn't matter if rafts connect as they only have to hold to the build plate. But parts of the model and base touching is not ideal unless its intentional.

Print Hunter
Check out the latest 3D print model releases!  
   
 
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