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oh....must´ve overread it somehow then...

(actually i was also confused about the ced cloth as in the all dull version it was quite a different hue...)

@LDD:
I'm glad it turned out well and you're a one happy customer
The extra is a little present for you being our first victim
Sadly legs aren't here there yet, but I believe you will put these bitz to the good use nevertheless. We're eager to see the photos!

@BB:
Well, Tempera is an interesting paint to work with, a bit uncommon after the Acrylics though.
Water spraying on the model sounds like a clever idea actually. I might give it a shot.

@El Vik:
Oh, the Ronin been through alot - somehow it turned to be an ...unlucky painting session. Anyway the final version almost pleases me (I haven't even noticed since when I've become so picky!).
Just have to make some decent photoes, wich is always quite a task

But before this happens, I'll drop a few pics here just for your entertainment
This one is a base for the Ronin. Nothing exquisite, but I kinda like it.


And the other current WIP - Donny. I'm trying to catch his cartoon skin tone, but that's tricky...



Thanks, for stopping by, folks!

Becoming picky is what life makes you while you grow older and more senile...

For the base you don't use any salt technology, right? How on earth can someone paint so convincing random patterns? All those scratches...


Donny...is his skintone in RL as dark as I see it now, or brighter as I recall it from the show?

I have no idea what legs to use with the nits to be honest I want it to show it to its best and to be honest Tau legs pretty much suck

So I think some kind of conversion will be needed but what

That is some seriously creative painting I am with Vik on the scratch effect, is that just a paint stroke and random dotting with a metallic paint ?

You really should do some youtube style videos you know

TMT is looking pretty cool I think the skin tone looks right in the first pic, so I think the darkness might just be a camera trick but looking forward to seeing this progress.

@El Vik:
Getting old is what I'm doing every day!
Yeah, I don't like the gimp with salts and all that kind of stuff - it suppose to make the process easier, but I find it disturbing to salt something which I can not eat. On the other hand, I can eat a model. Will be hard to chew though
I prefer a good ol' brush. Also bought an Airbrush, yet getting used to it... Not very successfully.

Donny skin tone seems to be a bit dull comparing to the one from TV-show. I guess I should make it more contrast and yellowish.

@LDD:
You always can wait until the Synapse bitz will be fully released

There's no metallics. I've used Tempera paints and a bit of washes to make the surface and Citadel Vermin Brown for the rust. And a lot of random gray and white lines and dots all over the place for the scratches. It's recommended to cover your painted surface with varnish first, so you could easily wash off any drip of paint which didn't turned out the way you want it.

You're flattering me (not that it's something I don't like. Actually, I do!), but I don't think I'm ready for youtube for so many reasons...

Aye, photo shooting ain't my strongest side at all
Anyway, Donny's skin looks fairly close to the show, yet require a few more brush strokes here and there

I think with a few highlights the skin tone should be right

These Tempera paints you keep mentioning, well I looked them up and it mentions they are not suited for plastic ?

So do you mix them with something or is there a particular brand for plastic ?



No flattery just want to learn your technique for painting mine sucks so want to achieve a better standard and techniques.

So get over yourself and make some videos mate

How long before the Synapse will be released ?

I use Acrylic based Tempera. After drying it makes a pretty strong layer which is hard to remove even with a toothbrush. Believe me, I've tried
Ofcourse it's not as durable as regular Acrylic Paints, but it's not a big deal under the varnish finish.
In terms of pain job... they are just slightly different. Have its cons, have its pros. More suitable for some things imo.
This type of paint is very popular among old-school historic miniature painters in Russia for some reason (mostly because there wasn't available decent Acrylic paints even befor 2000th, I think).

For example, some miniatures painted with Tempera:

Well, they look amazing so they obviously work and some bloody decent brush work on those minis the material texture achieved is unbelievable.

Do you have a range of Tempera paints you can recommend ? I think these might be worth a try

Amazing indeed. Painted by the fellas from Tatyana Gapchenko's studio. A lot of incredible works are in their gallery.

I'm not sure really... I use Master Class Tempera Paints by the local manufacturer and they looks good to me.

Well the misses I pad ain't liking your link mate so have no idea what those paint are, however will have as each of the net and see what comes up

I believe there are a lot of manufacturers around. Probably some local too. Tampera is a very popular artist's paint. Just make sure it's Polyvinilacetate based (PVA, yup ).
And keep in mind it's a different experience in compare with the common Acrylics:
Requires more patience, because it dries very slow and while it could prolong your work, it is a plus on the other hand - you can mix colours right on the miniature to get very smooth gradients and you barely will need to deep your brush into the pot again and again for the new portion of paint, because of damn Acrylics dried on the palette again Even if Tempera dries out on the palette, you can delute it again with just a water. Yet, wet palette is always much of a help.
Tempera is very opaque and forms a very thin coat - you don't need as much water to delute it, so you can cover the surface with just one layer. The delution rate is a bit lower then for the acrylics, yet it's all up to your practice to find out the right ones.
And again - be careful when painting the next layer: if the Tempera isn't fully dried and your brush is wet enough you can get a mix of your paints accidentally. Usually I cover elements with matt varnish to protect myself from such accidents and mistakes.
Also, Tempera is very matt by itself, but varnish finish still is a must to protect your miniature.

Sounds like a paint I can work with seems to have a slight oils quality due to drying time and blending aspects, also I like the more transparent quality as well which means better blending capability.

I think I will have a look in the art shop in a coupe of weeks time, would go this weekend but have a dam wedding being forced to go to.

Your own? that would take some balls to not attend

Your own? that would take some balls to not attend

Good one Vik!

@LDD:
Blending with Tempera is like blending with any other paint, I believe - just add more water!
A wedding, huh? Well, that's something every man being forced to go to

So... Is it your own?

 Viktor von Domm wrote:
Your own? that would take some balls to not attend

QFT

LOL no not mine some friends of ours you just cant tell some people

That whole add more water thing I just cant get on with, the easier blending was more due to the slower drying time, when I try with Acrylics the dam things dry before I am finished.

What did you expect?

Aye, Acrylics drying time is a bane...
Though nothing unsolvable: to preserve moisture on the palette just use the wet one (a guide to make one.), and to have more work time on the miniature surface mix the paint with drying retarder.
I found the article about the homemade Acrylic retarder - could be useful, yet I haven't tried it out by myself.

E.g my wet palette:

Cheers for that I have the pieces to build a wet pallet also tried the retarder, but still having some issues maybe I am just a crap painter

Some people just can't get retardier , I paint straight from the pot and my models look like they could go back in a pot , I've tried wet pallet too, but with GW paints I just seem to waste more than what I use. A wet pallet might make more sense if I used dropper bottles.

@LDD:
Aye, everything requires a time to get used to... I still can get how to work with this friggin airbrush -.-
Anyway, the modern marken gives us quite a good choice of instruments for your specific needs. I even seen some guides about using Oils!

@Theo:
Hm, may be... I just poke my brush into the pot, then on the wet pallet and smudge it a bit. Sometimes add more water, if needed, but in most cases the pallet's moisture is enough. Works fine for me
Droppers actually gives me less control over the amount of paint - it's fairly easy to drip much more than you need accidently and that's what happens to me ALOT!
When with the pot I can get the exact amount I need like on a very tip or the whole brush...
A matter of preference and habit of course

Well I think in this case its just a matter of perseverance and improvement, all be it a slow progress

I think I need to get my man cave sorted out and spend some real quality time in there.

I am sure you will get there with the airbrush, what is it that you don't get ?

Slow is better than none

The paint flow constantly interrupts, like if nozzle clogged or something... The source of this problem can be either a paint dilution rate/air pressure setting or it's just a specific "illness" of the cheap chinese airbrush I currently use, which I got for the test purpose... Sooner or later I'll figure the things out, but it's a bit disturbing anyway.

By the way, I have an idea for your Ronin conversion to fit your Army:
Drill out his face and place a Grot's one instead.
Replace the weapon in his right hand with a pumpkin grenade.
Some kind of a hover disk will suites well to his pose and will make a nice base too. Probabbly resculpting his flappers will be good for more dynamic feel, like in flight...
Well, and paint him purple-green
I'm pretty sure you've got the idea

The time has come!

Dangerous mercenary and a bounty hunter, Ronin is a grim fella with a grim past, covered in a fog of mistery.
Yet a little is known, but some speaks he's the only one survivor of once powerfull but destroyed order and now he ought to wander all across the galaxy without master and grand purpose.

1/64 scale, 35mm from tip to toe, two magnetized weapon options - melee Plasma-Chainsaw (too much? No way!) Naginata "The Green Reaper" and his pew-pew Plasma Knucklegun "Airkiss" (Too much Plasma is never enough!).
Locked, loaded and ready for action, for a fair price, of course.
The colouring is a nod to the project's working title "The Implacable Skitarii".

Casts are available. PM me if you want one

But onward, to the picture! You can click it to see in Dakka gallery with all this zooming stuff for more precise viewing. Also, I request votes! MOAR VOTES! Thanks



CMoN link for vote sake

So, what do you think, my friends?

I think he looks fantastic, Ishkatar! Painting came along wonderfully. Love the way his armor looks.

freakin awesome dude. Love it. Inspiring!

BB

Nice back story gives the model a little more identity, plus nice paint job that helps sell the model.

I would buy one but I already have

One thing though why have you put it down as 1/64 scale

@Moltar:
Thank you!

@BB:
Cheers, pal!
How's your NMM practicing going?

@LDD:
And I would definitely sell you another one

As for the scale... 35mm in 1/64 will be 2.24m, which is tall. Superhuman tall. And I wanted him to be superhuman tall - somehow this goes nicely with his mysterious story

 lone dirty dog wrote:

One thing though why have you put it down as 1/64 scale

We find it a major flaw when miniature manufacturers don't state the exact scale of their works. It kinda ruins the whole idea of a miniature, when you can't understand what size that thing would be if it to exist in the real world. We don't approve GW and alike policy that spawns constant discussions about Space Marine real size etc. What is now known as 28mm scale is a lousy term that actually says nothing about scale and can vary greatly from mini to mini, but it originates from several scales like 1/58, 1/60 and 1/64. Before starting Ronin and Aztec we made some calculations and figured that 1/64 is a suitable scale for our needs. Donny is also made in it.

I always thought 1/64 scale is railway model size, which is why I questioned it in the first place.

I use 1/50 - 1/56 scale cars with my miniatures as the 1/64 scale look to small in comparison, which was why I was surprised when you put it.

But hey ho it's your company and as long as the models get released call it what you like mate

 lone dirty dog wrote:
But hey ho it's your company and as long as the models get released call it what you like mate

Fair enough
Well, the scale here is just for clarification. After all, the actual size, proportions and overall feel is what really matters.