Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

I vote new thread. I also vote to add me.

Ok folks, here's the link to the official thread, UPDATED rules (that means re-read them), and has as much of a complete list of participants and category that I have available. I have also sent a PM to legoburner requesting front page exposure.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/563097.page

This terrain thread is no longer the gathering point for the contest. It's been quite overwhelmed with activity. 6 pages in 5 days vs. 6 prior pages in 7 months. Granted I was away for an extended period, but that's still a huge difference.

I expect things will quiet down soon and I'll be getting back to my little hunks of junk. I'll share what I have as the opportunity arises.

See you all on the contest thread. Thank you so much for being part of this.


@ Strombones- Added as Exalted. Thanks for joining!


@ everyone- That's it, clear off. Out you go. Yes, the lot of you.


see you on the contest thread

No sorry refusing to leave.

*unsubscribing...*

















Not

Ok then... I shall dive in head first... and check the depth with my face!

Mark me for Lord then.

Shouldn't Mr. Steingass be in Overlord?

 MauS wrote:
Shouldn't Mr. Steingass be in Overlord?

Clearly bribery can get you into a lower bracket

No posts here in 4 days. Back to normal.

I'm going to compile these pictures and post them on the contest thread, but felt like putting them here first since this is my 'real' thread.

I've been getting a lot of questions about what is 'junk', what should it look like, etc. My response has been to build the model they want on their table. Not the answer they are looking for apparently. Tonight I decided to show them exactly what I mean. The following took 25 minutes from junk to model:













25 minutes. All I'm waiting for now is the glue to dry. I'll let it set until tomorrow just to make sure it's done.

I think I'll do this for all the junk heaps I'm going to offer as prizes. I'm going to make one about twice the size for the 'peoples choice' overall winner.

If you are reading this are are not aware of the contest, click the junk pile contest tag in my sig. Contest ends Friday Dec 13th.

Ahh, cool beans Skalk. I feel a lot better about mashing all of my bits together with hot glue instead of meticulously placing everything now I think I'm gonna have to do a regular old pile like the one you've shown above, just for fun. My entry is a bit different in shape, and a nice pile like that looks pretty fun

 MauS wrote:
Shouldn't Mr. Steingass be in Overlord?

me? I don't really care. I'm not much of a competitor. I build models that I want. No matter how many pics I post for you guys to see, I'm the one that has to look at my shelves and tables. But I'm honored that you think so Maus!

We need a new title bestowed, Junkmiester General goes to Skalk.

Now that's the way to show us.

As to Mr Steingass, you are the Overlord.

@ Grim- I was going to use a hot glue gun tonight since the plastics are made of different materials and do not always stick well, but I decided against it. not sure why, I just didn't. Buit it is a valuable resource for things like this as it can fill in the 'dark underside' gaps between materials.

@ Dave- Hi!

@ Camkierhi- Thank you for the title, but I'll decline. I'm plain ol' Skalk Bloodaxe. If I start collecting titles I might start to believe my own press releases.

 dsteingass wrote:

 MauS wrote:
Shouldn't Mr. Steingass be in Overlord?

me? I don't really care. I'm not much of a competitor. I build models that I want. No matter how many pics I post for you guys to see, I'm the one that has to look at my shelves and tables. But I'm honored that you think so Maus!

Well, seeing as you, in my humble opinion, are probably the best terrain artist here, its not an honour... its a curse

THat is a junkpile!!

I clearly need more junk. I guess my busted white out roller and a broken VHS tape won't cut it. A-scavenging I will go.

 Moltar wrote:
I clearly need more junk. I guess my busted white out roller and a broken VHS tape won't cut it. A-scavenging I will go.

Take a hammer with you, that junk can be dangerous

Hey now. I never forget a hammer.

 Moltar wrote:
I clearly need more junk. I guess my busted white out roller and a broken VHS tape won't cut it. A-scavenging I will go.

You have an entire VCR? Oh man. You have WAY enough junk to make a junk pile. Take a screwdriver and some pliers to it and you'll quickly find that the parts are more than enough to make an awesome pile of junk. nd if you need some bulk in the center, take said hammer and bust up a few larger chunks.

I'm not giving you 'insider information'. Anyone can read this thread and from the beginning it has been all about sharing ideas and techniques.

Nice pile of junk Skalk, but you may want to re-think the battery in there. Time may not be kind to that

Junk for the junk god!

The battery will likely leak over time... I am clueless as to what could possible seal that enough... Alkaline will do all sorts of nasty shizzle to yer health too... Wouldn't want you to become Skalk Sick-axe

@ both- Agreed. I rec'd a couple PMs regarding the battery as well as your post. It'll be coming out tonight. I wouldn't give it much mind if I were going to keep the piece for myself, but ceding to the concerns of others I am making the responsible decision.

i´ve heard from a lil we bird that soon we might get spoiled with a new update?

Ooooh update please sir.

Little bird was right.

This is in response to a requests I've had from a couple Cultists and to keep things fair and neutral I'm posting it on my Terrain thread. It's relevant enough to be included here as a small tut (or at least an opinion). I don't have time to post example pics but the text should be enough to help people take the next step.

RUST

Rust is easier than you might think, and there are a number of ways to do it. I won't do *all* the legwork, but here's a few ideas to consider and investigate:

Salting- By far the most popular and effective method I've used. It is very realistic as the rust comes from underneath, not layered on top of the metal. Check YouTube for salting videos, you'll find a lot of them.

Baking Soda- a bit more tough to work with but the results are decent. It gives a 'bloating with decay' look to the metal. My favorite recipe for powder is to apply liquid superglue to certain areas that look like the metal would separate and bloat (such as edges and some surfaces of metal), sprinkle baking soda on the glue, let completely dry, brush off the loose baking soda that didn't stick, prime and paint. You'll be dabbing rust on the baking soda in this application, it won't be 'rust from beneath' but it still looks really good.

I've also started to use a different method where I prime my piece (rust or black, doesn't matter) sprinkle baking soda in the same areas that look like the metal would separate and bloat (such as edges and some surfaces of metal), let dry 'as is', later spray matte sealer over entire model (it soaks into the baking soda and makes it hard as a rock). In both applications you can also move on to the salt method.

Brushing- Not an application I use all the time I found it has worked well for me in certain situations. When I use this method it is almost always in conjunction with either (or both) of the methods above. I prime my model with a rust base (I prefer to use spray paint) and once completely dry I spray at least 3 coats of matte sealer (being sure that each application completely dries first). If I'm going to use any other technique on the model as well as brushing this is when I do it. Once the other methods are complete and I've gotten to the point where I have most of my 'final paint' done I use a small steel brush (looks like a toothbrush, available in most hardware stores) and lightly scrub over flat surfaces and sometimes edges of metal (but rarely over any baking soda as it can chip off). The light scrubbing removes the top layer of paint to expose the base beneath, but the matte sealer helps to prevent scrubbing through the base color down to the plastic.

Dry brushing- While tis method can pick out edges quite nicely I don't like to use it very often. I reserve it as a last resort for those times when I'm completely sick of working on a model and the options left are dry brush and be done with it or grab my 10 lb hammer and smash the model into atomic particles. With few exceptions I've chosen dry brushing. If you go with this method I'd recommend a bright color first (orange is my favorite) and brush over it with a darker color, gives a 'subdued reveal' look.

These are not the only methods available by far they are just the ones I use. There are many resources available online (Dakka and YouTube being a great places to start).

Hope this helps!

while i used superglue and soda already together i haven´t yet thought about that in terms of achieving a corroded effect on surfaces... i think i will try that...i still haven´t had the guts tho to try the salting methode... somthing in my weird mind tells me i will screw it^^

@ Vik- try it on a few sacrificial pieces. My first few were on blocks of wood, and you know that even a 'nightmare' of a mistake can be turned into something awesome.

But do try it on a few things you won't miss, like even a soup can.

actually that is a brilliant idea... no real loss there but much to be gained from that expirience... ...sometimes i am really angst-ridden...

I personally have had much success with the superglue and bicarb approach, I feel it gives a nice texture. Many people are better than me at these techniques though.

 Skalk Bloodaxe wrote:
@ Vik- try it on a few sacrificial pieces. My first few were on blocks of wood, and you know that even a 'nightmare' of a mistake can be turned into something awesome.

But do try it on a few things you won't miss, like even a soup can.

I can now see Viks wife open the cupboard and finding that vik has pulled all the labels off the canned goods and has experimented with the technique. "It's okay honey, I color coded the cans by flavor"

Personally, I'm not a fan of the salt method. In the latest issue of FineScale Modeler, someone used it on a plane..it just looks overdone to me.

Oh..and I disagree, rust DOES sometimes grow on the outside