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filbert wrote:I use this stuff for plastic:



.........................

Same here, but I suspect that GW are selling humrol re-packaged due to the bottle?

As for superglue, I was actually eyeing up a bottle of GW thick super glue as I never seem to be able to find any Gel t any of my usual haunts (or forget at the ones that do have it!). Thus so tired am I of regular coat A.N.Other brands liguid stuff sticking my fingers together/coating clothes/doing that annoying sticking your fingernails down thing, that I am sorely tempted by a tube of GW thick. Oh the shame!

notprop wrote:

filbert wrote:I use this stuff for plastic:



.........................

Same here, but I suspect that GW are selling humrol re-packaged due to the bottle?

As for superglue, I was actually eyeing up a bottle of GW thick super glue as I never seem to be able to find any Gel t any of my usual haunts (or forget at the ones that do have it!). Thus so tired am I of regular coat A.N.Other brands liguid stuff sticking my fingers together/coating clothes/doing that annoying sticking your fingernails down thing, that I am sorely tempted by a tube of GW thick. Oh the shame!

Imo the shape looks more like revell.

notprop wrote:

filbert wrote:I use this stuff for plastic:



.........................

Same here, but I suspect that GW are selling humrol re-packaged due to the bottle?

As for superglue, I was actually eyeing up a bottle of GW thick super glue as I never seem to be able to find any Gel t any of my usual haunts (or forget at the ones that do have it!). Thus so tired am I of regular coat A.N.Other brands liguid stuff sticking my fingers together/coating clothes/doing that annoying sticking your fingernails down thing, that I am sorely tempted by a tube of GW thick. Oh the shame!

Thats the same plastic glue I have, personally I find the metal pin just a gimmick. The glue still comes out way to fast and with plastic glue less is more =o]

I just put it onto a pallet and use a toothpick to apply it. I do the same with the superglue, I found my modeling skills got a lot better once I stopped just applying glue right out of the bottle.

And looking at the poll results, people actually buy GW glue? Really? To each their own I guess.

My guess is that alot of folks shop at GW's or FLGS's that only carry GW glue.

I can't think of any other reason other than supporting a FLGS to make me even consider GW glue.

I tried Loctite super glue, both gel and non gel, in tubes and those crazy ones where you push the sides... all of them dried up within days of opening.

Yes, they were sealed securely after each use, no they were not left topless for extended period of time, yes they were stored correctly, no I did not spill any.

Haven't had any issues with GW's glue to date apart from the pricetag, but the Loctite stuff, however effective, dried up far too quickly for my liking.

For plastic: Testor's Model Master Liquid Cement by a LONGSHOT. Best darn plastic glue I've ever used, and I've sworn by Testors in general for over 2 decades.

For resin or metal, I prefer Krazy advanced gel, or occasionally 5 minute epoxy, or a combination of the two.

Edit-for spelling.

Krazy Glue. Every time, all the time.

My 2c:

My GW glues completely dried up (their paints had only mostly dried up on me) over 8 years.

My revell contacta professional plastic glue w/ needle has been fine since the day I bought it, nary a fault with the product besides the glue taking a while to dry (if you can hold the piece in place, it's good, but it comes out like water and takes 5 minutes for a minimal bond), and sometimes the glue doesn't come out the needle (normally I just squeeze a bit and it comes).

I also have a selmer's epoxy glue, that's been fine. I did my nightbringer with it back when I didn't know what pinning was (I can't get it off the base even though the nightbringer can't balance on its own), even when the GW superglue arms fell off on me during painting (into paint, which I have had to re-strip -_-).

It's also been good for my monolith too, it dries pretty much as it comes out, sometimes it may dilute white (I think through the oil in your hands maybe?) but I cover the seams with a light roll of GS anyway (or use bicarb soda as a 'superglue filler' as it dries).

Gorilla Superglue is what I use - excellent stuff!

Ok thanks for the replies guys now let's keep it up!

Testors (orange & white tube) for plastic, Gorilla Impact Tough super glue for metal, resin & PP plastic. Its got a flex ingredient to allow it to take impacts and not break.

I'm guilty of using GW glue because I didn't know any better :p quick question about super glue vs plastic glue: is super glue safe to use on plastic models? I haven't used it in ages but I remember there was always a white residue that would form near where the glue was after it dried. Is that not an issue these days or do you just prime over it?

FabricatorGeneralMike wrote:

Eilif wrote:I wouldn't even bother looking at GW glues. Too much more expensive and not as high quality and specialized as better quality glues.

The list should really include BSI glue for superglue. Many modelers are using it and probably don't know, since BSI is sold in most model stores in the USA. The BSI in very small letters on the back and they leave the front clear for the store to stamp their own label on.

http://www.bsi-inc.com/Pages/hobby/ca.html
Look familiar?

It's avaialble in as wide or wider variety of formlations than any other brand and is among the least expensive super glues.

I use the watery Instacure for reinforcing existing joints, the not quite so watter Instacure+ for most uses and the very thick Maxicure for joining irregular surfaces.

I also really like Gorrilla Ruberized superglue for heavy metal limbs and other parts in danger of coming loose.

For plastic glue, I love Plastruct " Plastic Weld". It's not even a gluey glue, just pure liquid plastic solvent with a brush applicator for super accurate application. Smells bad, but is the best performing plastic glue I've used, and I've used them all. Not very expensive either.
http://www.plastruct.com/pages/GlueContents.html

Mines been repackaged with "P.M. Hansen LTD" Sticker over top of the BSI. =o] This stuff is great also.

Ive seent hat same packaging with several different names on it. Im pretty sure stores order it from a bulk supplier that customizes the packaging label for them. It is good super glue though, regardless of whos name may be on the label.


Automatically Appended Next Post:

varl wrote:I'm guilty of using GW glue because I didn't know any better :p quick question about super glue vs plastic glue: is super glue safe to use on plastic models? I haven't used it in ages but I remember there was always a white residue that would form near where the glue was after it dried. Is that not an issue these days or do you just prime over it?

Plastic model glue actually melts the plastic at the joint, effectively forming a "weld" that is extremely strong but permanent. It only works on certain plastics...like most model kits and GW plastic. That is why it should be used very sparingly. It does not work on PP plastic however.

Selley's "Quik-Fix Shock Proof" Supa Glue, from Bunnings (hardware store) here in Australia. About $6.50 per tube from memory.



I've never come across anything as potent as this stuff. Takes about 10 seconds to bond plastic, and 15 seconds for metal, but after a few minutes you'd better not have any thoughts about changing your mind- its like that forever.

I took an old damaged metal Terminator and glued his arms back on and chucked him onto a base, then after an hour I flicked him off my 4ft high bench around a dozen times. Even after falling all this way onto a concrete floor all I ended up with was a dented and scratched Terminator, his arms were still glued on and his base still attached. A friend of mine has even reglued his original metal Wraithlords with this stuff without any pinning at all, and all three are still in one piece even with a few knock downs, one even dropped off the table during tourney.

I cannot recommend this product enough, although I will admit that I still use GW's plastic glue where i've glued on a weapon that I think i might want to swap out later (like some of the arms on my Killa Kans).

 Velour_Fog wrote:
GW tools and glue are always going to be a ripoff. You can get pretty much the same quality elsewhere but without the big markup.

I have Humbrol poly cement* and some random brand of superglue I can't remember (definitely not GW)

*Brilliant at gluing plastic stuff together

I have a pair of gw plastic cutters that have seen extensive use and now, several years later, are working great!
While I agree that the glue could be better, I would not say the same for their tools.

Edit:
Just realized I replied to a necro post, and not even one that was regarding the OP. Did this need to be necro'd to comment about GW tools? Shame on us.

 zogwort123 wrote:

 Velour_Fog wrote:
GW tools and glue are always going to be a ripoff. You can get pretty much the same quality elsewhere but without the big markup.

I have Humbrol poly cement* and some random brand of superglue I can't remember (definitely not GW)

*Brilliant at gluing plastic stuff together

I have a pair of gw plastic cutters that have seen extensive use and now, several years later, are working great!
While I agree that the glue could be better, I would not say the same for their tools.

GW's current crop of tools seem to be good. However, the issues with GW tools are two-fold.
1) In the past they had some real stinkers. For example, their "Hobby Vise" was a plastic POS that was less sturdy (the adjustment screw was plastic painted to look like metal), less adjustable and and just generally worse than other hobby vises.
2) GW Tools of the past and present are nearly always priced considerably more than equivalent (often nearly identical) or sometimes better, products. I think there was a thread recently showing comparable tools that could be had for less (often considerably less) than the GW equivalent.

Currently I use:
Humbrol liquid poly (old, in glass bottle, with nylon brush, but still working)
Loctite liquid super glue (pot version, with nylon brush)
Bostik Nexus gel super glue

For the two liquid things, I like the fact that brushes grant me more control,
The thicker, gel on, I sometimes apply it with a toothpick (to better put glue where I want it to go)

Testors Model Plastic glue with metal tip applicator and Loctite Super Glue Gel. Gel is easier to work with imho.

Testors plastic cement with the brush-on applicator and metal cap for plastic, and Zap-A-Gap CA+ superglue for everything else. Loctite works too.

I've had nothing but frustration with all of the GW glues. Either it never sets, or doesn't hold, etc. The GW plastic glue strings like mad. The thin glue clogs the applicator needle, and the thick doesn't do anything for me. The thin superglue doesn't work well and the applicator is crap.

Humbrol poly cement for me, and a brand of Supper glue from my local model shop.
The super glue comes in a big bottle (for superglue) and is super runny. Was only a couple of quid and was enough that I haven't exactly been sparing with it on terrain and my scratch built ork fleet for BFG. Yet there's plenty left and it may have started to oxidize as it's not stuck my fingers together for a while.
Still works though.

blows everything else out of the water.
Never had any trouble with it drying out, and I've gone through 15-20 tubes by now. The GW one lasts a year or so before it becomes brittle crystals. Loctite will outlast the plastic.