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Max, are you making your own? or are you using something cool you found? Theo- 3/4" or even 1" would be very useful to have no doubt, but a little big for Kans shoulders. 6mm pellets are good for weapon and elbow mounts, but shoulders need to be between 1/4" and 1/2" ideally.

If you got something to glue glass, then stop by dollar tree/family dollar/ dollar general. They have marbles or cheap, or to michaels or the local craft store in the floral department for the glass beads they use in floral arrangements.

CA would work, but the weight of glass would likely make the model top-heavy.

 dsteingass wrote:
CA would work, but the weight of glass would likely make the model top-heavy.

So your saying the Ork models might be unbalanced and prone to falling over or were you making the Pamela Orkerson model?

Silly Theo Orks are asexual and reproduce by fungal spores

Probably not much noticeable, but paint is still being slung. The arms need more variety of metallic colors.

looks very good already... specially the horns atm I find very good looking...is it wanted weathering there or just not touched up yet? if the former...then more that way...looks the part!

also...gotta ask, will the checkers get some black too or will they stay red yellow?...

I know they are fungus, but GW has even made female orks. But not having females may give good reasoning to why they are always angry

Painting looks great so far Dave. I'm always impressed how orks get such good coverage with their reds

Thanks Vik! No weathering yet. I'm still trying to get a good looking combo of base colors. The initial brown inking may be considered pre-weathering though I think these checkers will stay red/yellow, although I'll go over the yellow with a bit brighter shade before it's ready for chipping, etc.

Warhammer fantasy orks for bloodbowl had the ork cheerleaders showing that fantasy orks seemed to be like other beings on that world.

I recommend some tin bits drybrushed with some gold light for a brassy effect, and some copper colors like dwarven bronze

Look at the spores on that one...

Such beautiful work Warms my heart to see real models around here at last. (Mean orks BTW, no reference to anything else.)

I think the spheres he needs are smaller than that.....


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 dsteingass wrote:
Max, are you making your own? or are you using something cool you found? Theo- 3/4" or even 1" would be very useful to have no doubt, but a little big for Kans shoulders. 6mm pellets are good for weapon and elbow mounts, but shoulders need to be between 1/4" and 1/2" ideally.

No, found something cool for them. I will link it later.....

I am probably committing a crime just thinking about this on this thread, I have on many occasions looked longingly at my sons bionical's shoulders and hips! (nuff said, please do not excommunicate me) Also I have made a bunch of these sized Ball joints out of GS, as it is not critical that they are actually perfect sphere's.

I admit to having heretical thoughts regarding Bionicle joints myself

Nothing is safe from modeling conversion!

I could convince myself that Bionicle parts have limited LEGO compatibility and justify it...maybe ...ok maybe not.

They, are just fine for use in modeling, Dave....

But they are not necessary to be culled from the Lego modeling for other, heretical, purposes....


I will have a link for you shortly.....

dsteingass wrote: I admit to having heretical thoughts regarding Bionicle joints myself

I actually got me a nice auction via ebay full of replacement parts of bionicle stuff...so I don´t have to nick the kids stuff...will arrive shortly and it is cheap, next to unusable and mine^^...I actually have no remorse when it comes to bionicle... lets face it... lego did fugly with this range...

dsteingass wrote:Thanks Vik! No weathering yet. I'm still trying to get a good looking combo of base colors. The initial brown inking may be considered pre-weathering though I think these checkers will stay red/yellow, although I'll go over the yellow with a bit brighter shade before it's ready for chipping, etc.

I am again appearing a bit weak in faith...the stereotype black and white checkers would look better than a red and white checker pattern on a red kan... I think the model would benefit from a further color...

Agreed, Vik....


Big fan of the black and white checkers on red......

I think black, white and red and then of course blue, white and red are the best tri color schemes you could choose...

Ooh, hadnt thought of the blue....... that could be nice as well.....

But...I got yellow! yellow! Where do your old-ass eyes see red & White checks Vik!?
Good point, B&W is classic, but Will yellow look right with b&w checkers?

Speaking of blue..I've been admiring this little guy's color scheme lately with the black and boltgun metal thing going on.

The Blues CDs were just coincidentally sitting there on my desk. Billie might technically be Jazz Standards today, but that girl sang the blues.

Yes, i think b&w checkers would look ok with yellow


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But your the painter.


I absolutely dont claim to know what i am talking about...

Haha It's back down into the Hoth temperature range again today (-13F -25C), foiling even my new heating system. It's tolerable, but extended painting isn't very comfortable when the concrete floor is still cold.

That is cold, time for thro rugs

 shasolenzabi wrote:
That is cold, time for thro rugs

Wonder if I could borrow Nerdfest09's dogs for ear warmers. Seriously he has them doing other things like holding up a basket.

No rugs under my hobby/painting/desk trifecta, the chair doesn't roll so well on them The cold is only temporary.

 dsteingass wrote:
No rugs under my hobby/painting/desk trifecta, the chair doesn't roll so well on them The cold is only temporary.

Ah, so now we can call you "Ironman Dave"

I have been playing LEGO Marvel Superheroes a bit

if everything goes on like this iceman is more like it...