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Jet's looking very nice. Looking forward to seeing it painted, with many realistic markings...

i guessed it had to be a viper from glalactica!!! just for the record...i just saw it way too late :(

the green tower surprised me a bit... i somehow imagined it to be grey...but i have faith

the viper...returning to that subject again... this will be a cool thing for sure... i specially like the way how you use landspeeder stuff and still get the iconic look so well!...the wooden piece for the bow is an amazing find!

@Vik, the wood piece is just part of a dowel rod assortment I purchased a year or two back, trimmed in my miter box. The only land speeder part is the tail fin, the majority of the rest are from the sentinel sprue, and a marine drop pod.

@dr. H, not sure if it will get a realistic paint job as it will probably be part of the adept us arbites. Pretty sure I want to call him ducky, but might become boomer.

Not sure what's happening with the tower, could be bad primer or I may have thinned the paint too much, but getting lots of white crackling effects all over it. It would be really cool if it was metallic underneath as it would look like chipped paint, but it's white. I'd take pictures, but my son finally got his turn on the iPad.

oh...my bad... i recently got the lanspeeder scout set and it had a three thruster setup too... thus my confusion^^..

 Theophony wrote:

@dr. H, not sure if it will get a realistic paint job as it will probably be part of the adept us arbites. Pretty sure I want to call him ducky, but might become boomer.

Just a few little warning signs... Nah, I'm only pulling your leg. Maybe some tail-art... /jk
I seem to be in the minority in the amount of signs I put on models. It's fine, each to his own.

Can't help with the AB woes though. Sounds like primer or thinner problems.

@vik, that always a complement when you think one of my kit ashes is a kit, even if its a current GW kit.
@dr. H, I like your detail work, I'm just not willing to buy decals separately.

Leaving shortly for the kids vbs, and the marriage encounter. Tomorrow is a day at grandparents. I'll still try to get stuff done.

i will be going to bed now... so good day to you

Oh yeah, absolutely. If I didn't have a large collection of transfers from past models, I wouldn't be putting as many on mine. Wouldn't pay for them, at least not until I have money to burn.

Even if I had money to burn, models and paint would be first, transfers a distant 23rd.

Nighty night Vik.

Aye, but the right transfer can help make the model

Nice Viper! Really fething cool!

Also, that's the trigger bracket , you'll have to take the needle out, as it needs to fit through it. Then loosen the tension spring before replacing it.
There should never be a need to take it all apart and wash it like that if you keep continually cleaning it as you use it. That's a good way to lose small parts in a sink full of soapy water

@shaso, I know, but I'll limit myself to the transfers I have from other kits, not going to buy extras.
@dave, it did fall out when I took the needle out, just not sure where it fell from. I wanted to make sure I got it good and clean, thought I had a handle on the parts, but I guess the little ones got away.

No update this morning as I'm getting the kids ready to go to the great grandparents for a few hours, then up to my wife's school to help sort cheer leading outfits.

Here's a pic of the crackling I was talking about.

that effect i had on my own stuff quite often too... i think it is water related... this and the temperature you have in your cellar might be the cause for that effect... the bitz underneath the paint still work due to the heat where you keep it... i bet the plastic expanded a bit and thus the paint coat got torn...but i wouldn´t fret it... keep it as a means to later on get the weathering right... this effect mostly happened for me when i painted over a too heavy coat of PVA on my cardboard stuff... but i got used to that...

@Vik, thanks, I figured it was probably the humidity outside where I sprayed it and let it dry then brought it inside where I always have a dehumidifier going.

Supply drop.

Not a whole lot, a roll of cork .156" thick 2'x4' for the base of the bloodbowl pitch, now just need a sheet of plywood cut down to size.
A package of wire mesh used for paper mâché, which makes nice fence material.
And two packs of ho scale 4x12 strips for bulkheads.

I like it. Makes it look real. Some people pay for crackle paint you did it for free.

i think you nailed your cause and effect just right theo... either do it again like styro says... or try to avoid it^^...


nice cork mat and the wire mesh is quite a good tip!

Oh I would love to be able to reproduce the effect, but only if I had primed it rusty brown or metallic.

well.... it is still possible to use it as a sirt of marker to later on weather it...

Give those areas a few washes of Gryphonne Sepia and it will look like rust with drip lines and pools

and a wash of deviln mud for dirt

I'll try the dirt wash techniques later. Also forgot to mention I finished off some more lemonade and green beans. Wow that sounds like a terrible meal doesn't it.

Tower two in progress as we speak/type.

the things we do for hobby suplies^^...

Here's a close up of the mesh. The base is a 40mm for scale.

very fine mesh then on this scale...

I rolled out the cork last night and put weights on the one end to try to get it flat. 12 hours later I take the weight off, and the edges still curl hopefully this will change once I put it on a base of plywood.


The roll is so much larger than the actual bloodbowl pitch that I think the end zones will lead into the locker rooms/ maintenance areas.
Also wide enough for the silos to sit on one sideline.

I like the Colonial Viper-esque model. Can't wait to see the finished project.

Thanks valhalla130, it's fun to work on, gonna have to find some bits to finish it.

In the mean time I decided to draw up a plan and do some cutting.

The squiggly lines are where the cork will be showing. Pitch in the center with main drain. End zones will have one access door and enter into a workshop for the reserves. The center room will be the material storage room for k.o.'s, and he last room will be the main pump room where the dead and injured will be kept.

I cut the plywood in my garage to fit the roll. I tried using some spray glue to hold the cork down to the board and put weight on it to help, but the glue didn't hold. Looks like I'll have to try something else, I heard using green stuff to hold it in place while the glue sets helps.


This is the set up for the end zone.

Room layout, some of the wall sections will be replaced by the scratch built ones I showed earlier.


Edit: supply drop

1" circle cutter for bases, completes my set, and will allow me to make some drains and vents that I've been wanting to do.

Old stick vacuum that broke last week. Was about to place it in the garbage can when I figured I should loot it for parts. It still worked, just the bottom casing shattered and made it useless.

oh... i see much use in this hoover... possibly a tau-ish tower?... yeah...!

and the cork i would glue with PVA... cork can suck up the PVA like anything and then you have a bond to the plywood which will last for enternity!.... a job that PVA doesn´t help...is a job either for superglue or plastic glue... using GS for that... plain waste of materials (IMHO) ...

and that die-cuter is a very good investion.... from time to time i look for used ones on ebay... but even these go for mint prices...

also... your bulkhead setups look very good... lots of close combat spaces should you want to use the pitch for ´munda games!

Did you prime it first before you sprayed the green? It still looks good though!

@Dave, it got primed and dried, then AB green. I might not have left the primer dry enough
@vik, thanks, I'll try the Pavlova's when I can locate a bottle. The kids school supplies got tossed somewhere. I had used a spray she's iv which was recommended, but didn't hold . The green stuff was only going to be used in small globs in different areas o hold it till the glue sticks, I've seen videos where he "pros do that to get It to stick on bases.

Worked on he yard or a while, hen while he kids played outside I played inside.

The cutter got its use in making the pipe spill end with ring suggested by Dr. H .
Also in picture the announcers booth (control station), it has a built in soda can holder for the long shifts. I might have to order a few of Those transparent beer bottles both for h pitch and he cup holder . Also attached an input console on one of the wall sections.

Pretty much the same but you get to see the back side of the console.

No cool parts inside the vacuum.

That pipe end grill looks nice.
As do the control panels.

Surely the motor of the vacuum is good for cool parts. I took apart a mini-veg-chopper and the motor in that has supplied me with a fan, various odd shaped pieces and a ton of thin wire...