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Hey Dakkites, I need help troubleshooting my latest (really first) batch of decals. I started with a layer of vallejo gloss varnish and let that dry for 15 minutes. I added a microset than placed the decal followed by more micro set. I gave that 5-10 minutes to soften than I added 2-3 coatings of micro sol, taking care to let it dry in between coats. The decals look great, but now I am stuck with this background sheen that not even 1-2 layers of brushed on matte varnish is taking away. I'v attached examples.

Was my gloss varnish layer too thick? Should I keep adding coats of matte varnish by brush? I am hesitent to go the final step and airbrush the matte varnish because I want to handle this "decal sheen" first. Thanks for the help guys. I feel like this is ruining the models I put so much time and effort into!

- 2nd Ultra

you need to layer it with a gloss varnish AFTER your decal has dried and done. That'll clear out that kinda of thing. At which stage are you applying your decals? It should be done BEFORE any weathering


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sorry, I should also clarify after the final gloss to seal it all in is to go over with matte if that's the desired finish

^No, you need a gloss or semigloss surface to apply your decals to otherwise you get the dreaded silvering effect. Afterwards, to really protect the decal, you should again apply a coat of gloss or semigloss varnish over it. You are right however, that decals should be applied before weathering.

I think you may be applying your decals and solutions too soon after applying your varnish, resulting in some sort of decal glue, solution and varnish soup. Let the varnishes dry much longer and I think it would eliminate the problem. Usually I let my varnishes dry overnight or apply them in the morning before I go to work. That way they have time to dry/cure/whatever and the model is ready to be worked on some more.

@DreamKnight and @AngularDeath

That sounds practical, that I am applying the decal too soon after the gloss varnish. That advice sounds great for future models. Is there now way to fix the models that I have currently made the mistake on?

Is there a matte varnish already on top of the current decals?

I usually paint over the decal after I place it to get rid of that effect.

2ndultra wrote:
@DreamKnight and @AngularDeath

That sounds practical, that I am applying the decal too soon after the gloss varnish. That advice sounds great for future models. Is there now way to fix the models that I have currently made the mistake on?

Personally, I would probably strip the decals (you can do that with the microset) and paint over that goop/whatever occurred there and start the decal application process over again, letting the varnish dry much longer before you apply decals this time. That's how I would attack it.

@Dreamknight There is only 1 thin layer of brushed matte varnish over the dread decal. I was using it as a test. There is no matte on the rhino yet.


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@AngularDeath

MicroSet can soften the decal and help remove even after 2-3 applications of micro sol and 24hours drying time. What is your process for removing decals like that? How long do you let the micro set work in and what do you use to strip the decal? Hopefully Dreamknight comes up with some magic and I wont be forced to strip the decal and repaint the area.


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@ StormPhoenix Painting over the sheen sounds like a great idea, but my basecoat and layer coat are both airbrushed on. I'm not sure my airbrush detail work is up to the task and painting that close to a decal without ruining it. I havent tried brush paint over an airbrush layer but I imagine that would stand out almost as bad.

I'd concur with what some of the guys here said, strip it out with microsol and do it again and wait a little longer between sets... That's the safe way.

What I would do personally is cover the whole tank in Gloss Varnish and then cover it over with Matte Varnish and continue where I left off. This is ASSUMING you are using an airbrush. I'd put on 3 or 4 THIN coats of gloss (wait for it to dry in between each layer). this will make the all the surface glossed and even. Then a couple of layers of matte to get back to where you were and continue where you left off.

Might be a little unorthodox or frowned upon, but once the microsol/set has been there a while I can remove the decal just by gently rubbing it with my finger; I figure the varnish beneath protects the model from human contact. I've also used old paint brushes or the back of my hobby knife before, being careful not to cut or scratch anything. I use a generous amount of microset when stripping the decal, and usually let it sit about 10 minutes before removing.

Another thing he could do, if he is very careful, is paint around the decals. Personally, I don't have the skill or patience to cover that much space and detail, which is why I suggested stripping, cleaning up the area, and reapplying.

 2ndultra wrote:

@ StormPhoenix Painting over the sheen sounds like a great idea, but my basecoat and layer coat are both airbrushed on. I'm not sure my airbrush detail work is up to the task and painting that close to a decal without ruining it. I havent tried brush paint over an airbrush layer but I imagine that would stand out almost as bad.

What you have is more or less the normal process of decaling, you just need to finish it.

Put a layer of gloss varnish down as smooth as possible (airbrush it if need be) then use the MicroSol and MicroSet method that you already know. When the decals are dry, give them a coat of gloss to seal them and then airbrush your matte varnish over the decal; more than one coat may be necessary.

I typically give the entire model a coat of gloss after the primary color work is done and apply any decals before continuing on.

Dont strip and start over, waste of time. Simply apply your gloss coat over the whole panel, not just the area of the decal, then apply decal, micrsol/set, then gloss again, over the whole panel, then a final matte coat. Part of the problem is influenced by the boarders created by the panel edges.

By the way, applying these coats via airbrush solves a lot of these problems as well.

A.