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would love to see them. the only terrain experience i have of building anything was a couple volcano's decades ago..

so on the laptop again and able to link...

http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2013/06/water-effects-bottomless-and-animated.html

that guy has some nice tutorials and step by step articles...

somehow water effects still make me feel edgy and resin and silicone are not really my cup of tea...but i know where i stand with pva

keezus wrote:The topic evokes visions of:

And there's nothing wrong with that.

Good test, Tinker. Liking the look of it.

Good find, Vik.

Keep at it people, early days yet.

And don't forget to spread the word, such as mention it in your blogs (something I'm always forgetting to do...).

Alright, preliminary idea: an ork/ orge /similar creature forge. It's in the process of casting a big ass weapon of some type. I'll have to figure out how to paint molten metal as i've never done that...but learning is the point right?

Only problem is i have 15-20 pieces on the calendar before that . Timmmeeeeeee....

Cool idea Terrainwalker!

maybe this will help as reference image:

http://www.forgottenplanet.com/guildenstern/FIRE.jpg

It's a glass furnace tho iirc, (someone on another minature FB group took it, I believe it was, for reference for everyone) but the metal stick shows the heat nicely!

Yeah, I've been searching for images of iron or glass or what have you - the best I've found for the transition is this:

Also need to scavenge my Orky weapons bit box for a suitable weapon that would be cast. - now that I think of it, I also need to go through my ork box and sell some! haha, I have maybe 200 I don't use

Can't see your picture, TW.

However, from a quick google, painting the molten metal is the easy part; it generally looks a uniform yellow/orange.


The trick is in painting the surroundings to show that it is hot and not just a yellow liquid.
Careful blending from white to yellow to orange to red to black/metal and maybe a little OSL about the hot metal would be key.

I think a LOT of OSL would be the key. One of the distinguishing features of hot metal is that it actually puts out light, as opposed to just reflecting it, so anything that doesn't show that output of photons will look flat, I think.

Hmm that's weird..Try this:


Automatically Appended Next Post:
It has the range of colors and shows the glow. I agree that OSL is a must, but I've never pulled it off well so that'll be fun haha. Lots of new techniques here!

I think the trick with that OSL is contrast. Make it deep dark shadows. With bright lighting.

Hello! I am working now in wh40k game table, and really want to make smt with water on it, so why not to particapate in such conest?
Is not late to join?

Never too late to join, Strohkopf.

 Dr H wrote:
Never too late to join, Strohkopf.

Write me down then!

welcome Strohkopf! definitely not too late


Automatically Appended Next Post:

 Viktor von Domm wrote:
so on the laptop again and able to link...

http://www.wargamingtradecraft.com/2013/06/water-effects-bottomless-and-animated.html

that guy has some nice tutorials and step by step articles...

somehow water effects still make me feel edgy and resin and silicone are not really my cup of tea...but i know where i stand with pva

tbh I really really dislike using PVA as water effects

It shrinks when you use it, which can cause problems, I prefer the clear resin so I can add tints to them etc. I can see where at least if you want roiling, oxygen filled water a PVA would work out. Though the drying time is an issue. Or maybe that's just where I am, if it's too thick it doesn't seem to cure well.

the water effects and resins seem to dry better for me, and give more options.

Anyway! great site/read.

Great to see so much interest! I am an avowed fan of PVA but dry time is certainly a pain. Keep at it team!

I think the key to using PVA as water would be many, many thin layers. That way, it also dries relatively quickly.

is pva Elmer white glue?

Jup..

OK, first time here. Here goes.
I saw the terrain in the dark elder promotional image below and instantly wanted a platform like that.
My friends came round for killteam campaign games, but one was missing and the other had to bail early, so I opened my bits box and we started to make terrain. I was aiming for the platform but I've also had a broken computer fan for ages clogging up my terrain bits, so I decided we'd include that too.
I used IKEA cardboard honeycomb for the main mass and we had to elevate it with cardboard to the height of the fan to make it flush. This put it taller than the city of death bits so after I glued them in place I put some coffee stirrers on top to get a nice edge.

Our campaign has a subterranean ruined city which is home to warring tribes of scavengers. This was a recruiting ground for a dead Chapter, whose fortress orbits the airless world.

Airflow and the systems which still cleanse and produce breathable air are major concerns in the lightless city.
The competition specifies liquid though, and I'd expect these bottomless shafts to have taken on a ritual significance to the underworlders and feature in their executions.

The ruined corner is rubbled up with PVA porridge. I mixed PVA with oats until I got a crumbly rubble. Dries slowly but rock hard. Into this I've pushed some shaped sprue as burst pipes which will also flow.

Fantastic from everyone, welcome to all.

Drying times, ah well thin layers, a heat lamp, a hair dryer and a fan (air flow is the key). Can get a coat on every hour easy, of course the village lights dim a bit every time I start to model, but hey this is important stuff.

I experimented with clear silicone sealant in the last round, and would highly recommend it, cured over night and great effects.

But each of you to there own. Keep plugging away folks.

curiously i just sealed in a toilet throne the other day with white silicone...so i actually would try this now...we need to be open for new materials and new tech^^

@Angel- to be fair, Air is a fluid, even if it isn't Liquid. I feel like it ought to count.

the only problem I have had with clear silicon sealant is I didn't use all of mine up and it didn't reseal well (apparently the old stick a nail in the caulking tube trick wasn't enough) :( so it turned all hard after I used some lol

How did you keep yours from drying out Cam?

I let mine just clog up by its own accord...then I removed the plug that had formed and all was good...and my grandpa always told me to use a screw instead of a nail...

Anvildude wrote:
@Angel- to be fair, Air is a fluid, even if it isn't Liquid. I feel like it ought to count.

That's kind, but the OP did specify that he'd like to see liquid. I'll have burst pipes and for the main feature- some sort of gibbet over the fan, where they chainsword open their prisoners/criminals to let their blood flow down the shaft to appease the machine that circulates the air.
Then they probably let the drained corpses fall into the blades and be torn asunder.

Imagine several bodies strung up over the blades, their blood flowing steadily into the blades to be flung around and pulled down into the shaft.

 =Angel= wrote:

Anvildude wrote:
@Angel- to be fair, Air is a fluid, even if it isn't Liquid. I feel like it ought to count.

That's kind, but the OP did specify that he'd like to see liquid. I'll have burst pipes and for the main feature- some sort of gibbet over the fan, where they chainsword open their prisoners/criminals to let their blood flow down the shaft to appease the machine that circulates the air.
Then they probably let the drained corpses fall into the blades and be torn asunder.

Imagine several bodies strung up over the blades, their blood flowing steadily into the blades to be flung around and pulled down into the shaft.

And of course I immediately started thinking about the smell from the rotting body parts and blood circulating through the whole city...yuck lol.

i will be attempting some lava flow, consisting of a crater or pool of lava with the lava flowing out of some areas. preliminary sketches to follow as soon as i have the concept refined.

Great to hear your in Kingpin54, love the ideas you have.

@ Guildenstern, firstly, for the few pounds extra it costs, buy quality. Secondly get the nozzles with the screw on caps. Failing that use a large screw, not a nail.

Great to see a buzz around here, I was a bit worried with the topic this time round, but great to see people having a go, and that is what it is all about.

@Camherki I think liquids in general is a great category to get most people out of their comfort zone and help us all learn something new or refine a skill.

Definitely a good choice! I know I'm nervous about it coming out well haha

@Guildenstern Silicone based stuff usually uses atmospheric moisture along with acetic acid (that's why it smells like vinegar) to cure. So for those of us living in humid climates you REALLY have to make it almost airtight. That being said, Usually a plug of cured silicone forms in the opening and that's ass far as it makes it...seems weird that much more would cure. I've only seen that after 4+months. eh. who knows. We need a chemist in here!

 TerrainWalker wrote:
... We need a chemist in here!

Hello. *waves*

From what I can see on the internet (as in, I don't know this off the top of my head), the moisture in the air kick-starts the curing reaction in condensation cure silicone (other types are available and therefore react differently). This means once it's unsealed and exposed to water it will start to react and will continue to react. However, the more water it's exposed to the faster it will cure; so resealing it / keeping it in a dry environment will extend it's useful life. Heat will also speed up the reaction, so cool is also good to maintain shelf-life.

As for the plug forming and no more reacting; in addition to the above, it's possible that if the plug is separate from the bulk of the uncured silicone and once the moisture has been used up the only way the rest will cure is if it comes in contact with the plug (think of it as self-catalysed) or more moisture gets in.