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There are some things that super glue shouldn't be used for. I use quite a bit of GW's plastic glue, but it is a tad expensive for not a lot of glue. Is there a generic equivilent anywhere? Preferably something available from Wal-Mart or a local Hardware store.

Anywhere that sells model kits will have a much cheaper and much better plastic glue than GW's.

No idea what brands are around in the US... but I haven't come across a plastic glue yet, other than GW's watery rubbish, that didn't do a pretty good job.

For plastic-to-plastic, just buy the (orange) tube of Testors gel. This stuff is *strong*. It's what you want.

Don't bother with the liquid cement unless you're doing non-gaming Golden Demon work, and need super-clean joints.

Or need to 'cut' Squadron Green putty to fill gaps (it's great for this, and SG is better than GS at bogging gaps. Mind you, many things are better than GS at gapfilling.)

I use Revell Contacta Pro, which is one of the runny liquid poly cements in a bottle (with a needle applicator). It's also available in a jar with a brush.

There are any number of tube gel-type plastic adhesives suitable for modelmaking. Testors, Humbrol, Revell, Tamiya. All of these make them. Humbrol may be the hardest to come by (they did go bust, but Hornby did pick up the kaboodle, and it seems they may be back in production. Airfix kits, too).

I use Revell too. Not too expensive and the needle applicator is great for precision.

same here i use the revell stuff. i used to use the tubes of gel but its just too easy to make a mistake and disolve half the detail on yor model. generally fot plastics, super glue is far too strong. liquid poly cement is what you want.

Don't worry too much about the generic glue.

Rumour has it that GW will be releasing a new series of glue that will give different uses to all the different types of glue we used to have.

BYE

The best stuff to ever use for plastic styrene models is "Testors brand model master liquid cement for plastic models". Its about $5 and worth every penny.

It has a precision metal applicator tip that is quite long to get in those hard to reach places, and a couple wires to unclog the tip.

Avoid the one with the plastic applicator tip, its dumb.

Anything else is a waste of time and money.

The revell brand is hard to find in the states, and this is the equivalent here. Both basically the same product from my experience.

[edit]

here is a pic:

Yeah, essentially the same stuff.

I use fuse wire to unclog my needle-tip on the Revell bottle. 8amp (for our domestic lighting fuses).

Hmm, I'll have to give that stuff a try, I'm currently using the Testors stuff that comes in the glass bottle with the brush-on applicator.

I've had good results with the Testors that comes in the class bottle w/ brush as well. Anything Testors makes is pretty much a win in my opinion.

TragicNut wrote:Hmm, I'll have to give that stuff a try, I'm currently using the Testors stuff that comes in the glass bottle with the brush-on applicator.

Is that the stuff that is thinner than water?

Its really good too, just a bit hard to control and quick drying. Its actually better than other styrene cements, but the control issue is a deal breaker for many things I assemble. The bond it creates is strong though but applying it to large areas due to the quick dry of that cement makes it difficult to do.

Be aware that the non-toxic glue doesn't work as well as the toxic stuff but use it in well ventilated area.

Hellfury wrote:The best stuff to ever use for plastic styrene models is "Testors brand model master liquid cement for plastic models". Its about $5 and worth every penny.

It has a precision metal applicator tip that is quite long to get in those hard to reach places, and a couple wires to unclog the tip.

Avoid the one with the plastic applicator tip, its dumb.

Anything else is a waste of time and money.

The revell brand is hard to find in the states, and this is the equivalent here. Both basically the same product from my experience.

[edit]

here is a pic:

Thats what I use and its perfect. It doens't make a mess and it's easy to apply in tight spots.

chromedog wrote: Humbrol may be the hardest to come by (they did go bust, but Hornby did pick up the kaboodle, and it seems they may be back in production.

Yeah, you can still buy the Humbrol one here, but it's changed... it's very, very runny. I use it for bases.

Testors model master glue is the best. I have been using the same bottle for ages now. I have built so many models with the one bottle and it doesn't seem like it is close to running out any time soon. Can't say enough about how great this stuff is!

I use Elmer's polystyrene cement, though watch the viscosity, it gets a bit thick and tends to explode periodically when squeezed.

I also do commercial signwork for a living. All my friends and I use sign acrylic cement by the brand name Weld-On 3 by IPS Corporation. You could call some plastic distributors in your town. There are three or four distributors in Dayton, Ohio, so they shouldn't be too hard to find. I got a gallon for about $30.00, which all of us have been using for several years now. You'll also need a glue bottle with a needle tip.

It's water thin, so it takes a little practice. Parts start to bond in seconds, so I can work very quickly. It's a solvent based cement, so once it's together you'll have to cut them apart, but very low odor compared to some brands I've tried.

Krak_kirby wrote:I also do commercial signwork for a living. All my friends and I use sign acrylic cement by the brand name Weld-On 3 by IPS Corporation. You could call some plastic distributors in your town. There are three or four distributors in Dayton, Ohio, so they shouldn't be too hard to find. I got a gallon for about $30.00, which all of us have been using for several years now. You'll also need a glue bottle with a needle tip.

It's water thin, so it takes a little practice. Parts start to bond in seconds, so I can work very quickly. It's a solvent based cement, so once it's together you'll have to cut them apart, but very low odor compared to some brands I've tried.

Any precautions needed for the stuff? Does it stain? How's it on skin?

It's clear and evaporates very quickly. I've never stained anything with it. As a solvent based glue, it's toxic of course, but in the small amounts I use no more so than model cement or super glue. Just don't wash your hands with it or sit in a closed space and breathe it...