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Made in gb
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel







How do you keep Green Stuff lubricated? I was working with some yesterday and it was sticking to everything. Do you use water, or vaseline, or something else?

Thanks in advance!

 
   
Made in is
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit




Iceland

I use vaseline ...

The only problem with that is that it smell horrible(atleast what i usally buy)


   
Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




Swindon, Wiltshire, UK

Good ol' water
   
Made in is
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit




Iceland

Really ? I dont find it working for me , or atleast not for as long as the vaseline

I usally have to re-lubricate everything in a matter of minutes when using water ...

Wait a minute ... are we still talking about GS ?

   
Made in us
Ship's Officer





Reading, UK

Saliva.

Readily available and gets the job done!

DoW

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Made in gb
Decrepit Dakkanaut




Swindon, Wiltshire, UK

gretar wrote:Really ? I dont find it working for me , or atleast not for as long as the vaseline

I usally have to re-lubricate everything in a matter of minutes when using water ...

Wait a minute ... are we still talking about GS ?


keep your tools in a cup of water, removed them to use and dip them in every now and then (dip then shake off the majority).
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut




Oxford MI

Water......

 
   
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





New Zealand

Yes, you have to keep dipping your tool ends in water, but water really is the simplest, and is guaranteed not to leave any gunge on your model.
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut







IMHO, skin oil from the side of your nose or scalp is the best, I find, second best is saliva, then vaseline or other petroleum jelly.

Water is okay, but it can cause the GS to "disintegrate" when working with small amounts or very fine detail.

   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut






Purging on ctf_2fort

Some say olive oil works the best. It has been said on BoLS that K.Y. Jelly is an absolute god-send... For lubricating GS, I mean. What?

   
Made in us
Painting Within the Lines



Western PA

K-Y Jelly is the best stuff out there. It lubricates the tools for a long period and the model does not need a hard scrubbing afterward like it does with Vaseline does. It is very cheap as well.

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Made in us
Khorne Rhino Driver with Destroyer





Pennsylvania, USA

I would say water like the others have said, it will not leave any residue that requires cleaning, and you should try to sculpt in small segments. That way the Little bit of water goes a ways.



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Made in ca
Pyromaniac Hellhound Pilot





Calgary

I just lick all the tools around me to keep them nice and wet, and that way they'll do whatever I want them to do very effectively.

There's no lube like spit, in my experience.

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Tunneling Trygon





Skin oil, saliva, KY jelly... What a thread.



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Made in ca
Regular Dakkanaut






DogOfWar wrote:Saliva.

Readily available and gets the job done!

DoW


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Made in us
Dakka Veteran






spit and vaseline

   
Made in au
Morphing Obliterator





rAdelaide

Saliva.

Little know fact kiddies - GS tastes great!
   
Made in nz
Longtime Dakkanaut





New Zealand

Skin oil, saliva - I'm just grateful no one has suggested poo! Is this all some cunning plot to stop people touching your models?
   
Made in gb
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel







So, if I was flattening a piece of GS (trying to get back on topic with all this chat about KY and body fluids), and pressing it onto a surface, would you just put water/KY/vaseline on the surface. Sorry for the dumb questions, it's just not working for me at the moment...

 
   
Made in us
Fireknife Shas'el





Reedsburg, WI

InyokaMadoda wrote:How do you keep Green Stuff lubricated? I was working with some yesterday and it was sticking to everything. Do you use water, or vaseline, or something else?

Thanks in advance!


I use vegitable oil (Crisco)

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Made in gb
Leader of the Sept







I've tried coating a flat surface with water for flattening and it didn't work that well. the water dries/gets soaked up well before the GS starts to cure enough for easy use.

Please excuse any spelling errors. I use a tablet frequently and software keyboards are a pain!

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Made in gb
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel







OK, so water doesn't work too well on a surface for flattening GS onto. Anyone know what does?

 
   
Made in us
Fireknife Shas'el





Reedsburg, WI

Yes, vegitable oil

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Made in gb
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel







And that doesn't get absorbed into the GS?

Another thought, if I use water to lubricate the GS, obviously as the GS cures, the water evaporates off and you can paint it. Are there any problems with using oil/vaseline/KY/anything else, in them not drying off once it's cured?

 
   
Made in us
Fireknife Shas'el





Reedsburg, WI

It doesn't seam to affect how the GS cures if that is what you are asking.

After the GS is cured, I take a napkin, dip it in dish water, and then use it to wipe any remaining oils off the surface.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/09/16 22:08:29


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Made in ca
Calculating Commissar






Kamloops, B.C.

I've tried using KY for my tools. too oily to work with IMHO. Just pulls the greenstuff loose from whatever it's supposed to adhere to. I saw skin oil in a thread and tried rubbing my tools along the edge of my scalp. Didn't think it would work, but it's actually really good. Leaves no residue, warms the blade for ease of work, and you don't need much

EDIT: Also, running the GS under some hot water before playing on it will also make your life a lot easier, as it softens the GS up and makes it more workable

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2009/09/16 22:28:34


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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut






Scyzantine Empire

metallifan wrote:Also, running the GS under some hot water before playing on it will also make your life a lot easier, as it softens the GS up and makes it more workable


I keep two cups nearby when working GS: a coffee mug with hot water and my water cup for painting with clean cool water. A dip in the warm water to soften it up and a dip in the cool water to firm it. Works great! I personally use water as my tool lubricant (while sculpting, that is ) but have used a tiny amount of vegetable oil when making press-moulds and casts. It cleans up pretty easy, but you need to wait until the peice is completely cured to do so.

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Made in gb
Battlefortress Driver with Krusha Wheel







That all seems to make sense to me. Thanks for all of the help!

 
   
 
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