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Well, here is my first army

or close to I have 10 ultra marines finished.

I am doing white templars primarily because I sucked at painting black and think I have a pretty good plan of attack for doing white. Let me know what you think of the models and the army make up as a whole. I hope to keep you posted as I go. There are a lot of pics this first time through.

thanks,


THE WHOLE GROUP
2 dreads ( 1 magnetized with 4 arm options) , the other converted
1 razorback/rhino magnetized
1 vindicator/rhino magnetized (i haven't seen anyone else do this
3 crusader squads ( 2 10 man and 1 6 man shooty)
emperor's champion (the standard cape conversion)
1 landraider/landraider crusader magnetized (super pain!)
MY sword brethren assault termies with FW shields and conversions
small assault jump pack squad
bike squad
and
my only finished model my chaplain

the group



the chaplin


termies
(i really love those FW shields)





FOUR legged dreadnaught ( with 4 pairs of magnatized arm options)


side view



bike squad ( I also purchased some pretty cool resin bases for these guys)



FIRST Crusader squad
I put a lot of stuff on these guys. like seals and what not. I really like the power fist guy and the charging dude with the shield chained to his shoulder pad)



My 2nd dread
Some slight conversions. Both arms have venerable hands and I reconstructed his left arm to be pointing out with the assault cannon. I was hoping to convert a shield for him as well as a hammer or something but it all looked pretty bad.





My 2nd Crusader squad

I made these guys before I even read the DEX and didn't realize most crusader squads rocked all close combat weapons and bolt pistols.

Do you think its fieldable? I allready have a third crusader squad thats smaller and all shooty



3rd Crusader Squad

These, as you can tell, are sternguard veterans but I don't think that really matters. I just wanted to use as many cool models as possible.

Do I have to convert the power fist marines bolter to a bolt pistol?




EMPERORS CHAMPION

As I mentioned, I just used that standard Sisters bit alot of people use on this model
I will also keep him black to represent our roots!!



ALL the extra stuff to convert with magnets allready attached. (if anyone actually cares about this WIP I will throw up more pics and show all of the different options)




I guess I forgot to take picks of the tanks but you have all seen those before, the fact that they are all magnetized is pretty cool though. And those stupid magnets really really slowed me down. DARN polarization.



And finally my Marshal

I don't know what to do with him yet. I know I will paint is armor all silver as opposed to gold to go with my theme. I really want to come up with some cool conversions for him including his power weapon

I would like him to have really big spear I think

and the shield I can either use one of the forge world ones or convert his by using the BT sword from the BT sprue.

Thoughts?

will also be converting a terminator helmet to look like a crusader one for him to either wear or for someone to carry for him




maybe a split spear? could he even use that



other weapon ideas


FLUFF

None really yet. I know I want them to just be black templars on crusade that painted there armor white. I don't want them to be the actual white templars because their icons are different and I want to use all of the BT accessories.

alright, thats all for now

Honestly that four legged Dread looks terrible. If you want four legs do some converting and make your own, to start look at four legged animal, notice how the legs bend in different detections at the knee.

Also the chappy needs a black wash. I can see white primer poking out in some of the cracks and it ruins the effect.

Other than that Great job spraying white

wow

Maybe I will try a different four legged conversion but I have seen the animal ones and don't like those.

I think that adding an extra section to each leg on the four legged dread would look a little more feasible. Right now the poor thing looks like it would have trouble walking. Best of luck in whatever you decided to do with it!

I like the rest of the poses and modeling, can't wait to see some paint on them.

Dread looks pretty terrible IMO, would like to know the fluff behind that one

Go with the split spear on your marshal, will look bad ass.

Ok.

So I thought the first guy was just being rude (my bad) but I guess this dread really does need work. I kind of liked it but that's why we post stuff here.

Now this is going to slow down painting some because I can't get past this. It's not going to be easy either. It will take a lot of working with plasticard (which I hate) and I will have to replace all of the plastic hoses and cable with guitar string and rubber tubing.

current right side


current left side


current front



Ideas?



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An Interesting project some gawjus figures in that collection.

Paint up. Im watching.

Steve

Hung over....

I will just be posting some older pics of the magnetizing options I didn't put up the first time. Planning on cleaning up the base coat and starting the dirt wash tomorrow and Monday.

I really wish I had airbrushed white instead of priming. I don't think I even needed the primer.

Oh, and I'm not changing the legs I think they look good and I want to get painting!

Dread:
standard (twin linked/ missile)


AOBR (fist/melta)


double missile


double bolter


______________________________________________________________________________________________________________


Rhino/vindicator


without anything attached


dozer
(this isn't very hard. The thing I may have done wrong was gluing the front plates that hold the blade onto the rhino down. I could have attached these right to the dozer mounts but I didn't know what I would do with the magnets sitting in the front of the rhino.)





How to: 1) take the front plates that hold the dozer blade onto the rhino and line them up where they should go (no glue!!)
2) mark the hole with a sharpie
3) drill the hole needed to fit your size magnet (I used medium)
4) place magnet with glue
5) wait
6) drill holes in blade mount (these will have to be smaller magnets, no room)
7) check polarization and place magnets with glue
Done! You do have to kind of bend the mounts each time to get the dozer blade of but no biggie.

WHY DO THE MAKE IT SO THE BLADE BRAKETS ARE BENDING OUT ANYHOW? YOU CAN SEE THIS EVEN IF YOU LOOK AT THE VINDICATOR PIC ON GW WEBSITE



lights
(this is the main trick you have to figure out when trying to magnetize a vindicator. You can't attach the headlights to the rhino base because the vindicator front plate covers that area. What I did was, drilled in two small magnets under where the lights should be glued onto the rhino chasse. Then on the front vindicator plate do the same but make sure you have the magnets lined up and polarized correctly (the hardest part of all magnetizing projects). This will help snap the front plate down. These magnets will show through on both sides of the front vindicator plate, which is great because you will use the other side to attach the headlights. For the lights all you do is cut off 2 small flat nail heads and push them into the back of the headlights. (make sure to cut these short enough that they will lay flat)




SIDES
(pretty easy. Just like any other predator/rhino conversion. I put a big magnet in behind where the door should go and then I glued one to the back of the door and the back of the door on the extra armor version for the vindicator. Snaps on great and is more than enough hold. Well, too much for the plain rhino door


Top
(to be honest I didn't magnetize the top because it snaps in so well. The front plate of the Vindy and the size of it keep it on pretty well)


Front
(also, as you'll notice, to keep the front plates on I had to get a magnet mount right in the big front opening. To do this you simply cut a piece of sprue to fit in the large gap and glue a large magnet to the middle of it once it is set. Place one large magnet on the back of the rhino plate and the vindicator one to line up and you are there.



oh and the rhino version




Thanks

Hmm... four legged dread: like the idea, certainly haven't seen it before, but if possible you might want to reconstruct the legs a bit: it looks a bit silly. Also, i think the main body is a bit too high off the legs. Of course, if you really dont care and want to leave it so you dont have to work on it anymore, good for you. It's your model, not mine
keep up the good work, good luck painting.

Hi,

I recently made a wash following these instructions
http://www.belloflostsouls.net/2007/06/tutorial-death-guard-in-7-easy-steps.html
BUT the wash is covering my marines pretty well its just NOT going into the recess at all!



here are my ingredients

1 part black ink
1 part dark brown paint
6 parts ogaryn wash
12 pars water

then i decided to water it down even more so its probabley 20 parts water now. then I added a litle more black wash.

Any Ideas on how to get this wash to flow into the cracks more?

I think i heard something about dawn?



I do not want to make a new wash I just want to fix this one becaue I allready made a really big pot for my whole army





THE GOOD NEWS

I got a new airbrush and knocked out the base coat on my whole army

not my best pics








and here is the rest of the first squad with the wash that is messing me up






Any wash hints would be greatly appriciated

THANKS

Only thing I think about when washing is to not let it pool

Marines look like they are made of stone or something, just so I'm not misunderstading, the 1st squad has been washed in the last pictures?

yeah,

the last pics are with the brown wash over white base. I will be dry brushing back over with white

White Templars? You totally stole my idea.



Seriously though, really nice conversions. I especially dig your Terminators. Also, nice touch with the real chains. I've greenstuffed them on my lesser figures, but maybe I'll use the real deal on my tanks and dread.

Put this in your wash:



Or get some acrylic medium from an art store. Your problem is you have too much water in the wash which tends to allow the pint to "bead" or "pool" which draws it out of the recesses. Its due to the surface tension of water, the Future or Dawn breaks that surface tension and allows it to flow properly.

That's the main difference with GWs new washes as opposed to the old ones.

If you're just going over the whole model with a wash I would suggest an oil-based wash thinned way down. oil-based paints will flow into the whorls of your thumbprint because their surface tension is so low! PM me for more details.

You have some great conversions in this army, paint them great as well!

Inanimate that's an awesome model and unfortunately exactly what my White Templars are going to look like.

I love the white with silver accents. I'm guessing you have seen the blog about migsula's "crescent guard" your dudes (I guess my dudes too) look just like them

http://www.pbase.com/migsula/image/103376397

back to the wash thing

I AM SUCH A NOOB!!!

I screwed everything up. First as you read earlier my wash was pooling and not flowing into the recesses. Then against my girlfriends advice (what do women know) I added too much dawn. So my second squad had a wash that flowed into the recesses perfectly but wait.... now they look nothing like the first squad.


ooh it gets better. To fix this little problem I then added more water to the mix for half my termies. Then decided I needed more paint in the mix. So I poured in some black ink, some bestial brown and some other foundation brown.

Now I take this mix too my assault marines which were cleverly just airbrushed white and not primed (which I did against everything I read) now the surface of these models is taking none of the wash and it is just flowing perfectly into the recesses, which unfortunately wasn't all I wanted out of my wash. oh and my rhino and dread do the same thing

first squad with both washes:


second squad only with second wash:


third squad with more water, ink and brown paint (they look totally different)


terminator squad ( two different mixes. I couldn't tell you what was in them if I wanted to)


The assault squad (these are the guys it’s really not sticking to. and I think that is because of the fact that they were airbrushed but not primed)


and my dread for giggles





WHAT DO I DO???

On top of this I am color blind so, I’m not exactly sure how I am going to color correct this problem. Do you think the dirt wash matters? will it show though after two layers of white dry brushing? Do I need to dry brush so brown onto the model that weren't primed? or what


******you can all stop following this thread and give up on me. Or better yet continue to follow it if you are interested in watching a painter who has been sitting on the sidelines all these years make every single beginner mistake out there

Thanks

Definitely do not drybrush the brown onto them.

Just lightly re-prime the assault squad. They are probably smoother due to the airbrushing so the wash doesn't stick to any areas that aren't crevices. Try priming the white from directly straight down. This will make the upper areas lighter but leave the shady areas darker.

try just fully painting one model at a time until you figure out what you want to do. Keep track of what you're doing so that you can duplicate it.

Don't give up, I have been painting for 23 years and still learn something on nearly every fig!

to be honest I am thinking about dumping the whole lot in simple green and starting from scratch. This way I will base everything with primer and can use the same wash on all the models.

thoughts?

Starting over doesn't seem like a bad plan if you are unhappy with the current result and know that you can get it better. In the end you'll probably be a lot more satisfied with it.

For your wash try something that breaks the surface tension, adding more water doesn't help there. no alchol window cleaner works, or dish soap and future, even tho future will make your minis shine.

Not sure if you did, but even if you got an airbrush you still have to prime the minis. You can extract a primer from a spraycan and use it in the airbrush for greater control, or just stick with can primers. An airbrush is great for touching up the primer and getting the base color on though.

btoliver311 wrote:to be honest I am thinking about dumping the whole lot in simple green and starting from scratch. This way I will base everything with primer and can use the same wash on all the models.

thoughts?

1 Squad at a time , this way you can manage it more if you regret something.

Just re-wash the lighter minis, along with anything tat didn't get a bit of detergent for proper "flow". This will get everything to a more-or-less "even" grey basecoat. Then just drybrush everything up to pure white. Problem solved.

They look very nice.

btoliver311 wrote:Inanimate that's an awesome model and unfortunately exactly what my White Templars are going to look like.

I love the white with silver accents. I'm guessing you have seen the blog about migsula's "crescent guard" your dudes (I guess my dudes too) look just like them

http://www.pbase.com/migsula/image/103376397

******you can all stop following this thread and give up on me. Or better yet continue to follow it if you are interested in watching a painter who has been sitting on the sidelines all these years make every single beginner mistake out there

Thanks

Haha, that obvious? His paint scheme just feels so "templar". Black and white isn't really all that exciting. It translates well into artwork and such, but on the actual models? Not so much.

I'll be following this thread, and perhaps you'll see another White Templars blog. But seriously, go and buy a pot (or two) of Badab Black instead. You won't regret it. Just reprime your models lightly, paint the metal areas Mithril silver, wash the metal, apply the wash into the recesses on the white armour and you're basically done. It's not that expensive, hard or time consuming.

I have mad A LOT of mistakes myself, so I feel with you. I'm actually repainting my whole Black Templars army. Thankfully most of the paint on my soldiers consisted of black primer, so no thick layers of paint.

ok dropping some models in simple green right now.

I've never used simple green only purple power which worked great and didn't have this weird smell.

It's awesome to see more non-Black Templars come up. The Crescent Guard scheme is really good.

"out of the simple green bath into the fire"

The guys before I took them out of their day and a half bath in simple green


My "SUPER CLEAN" trunk after finding out the lid wasn't on the SUPER CLEAN i bought at checker auto.


of course everything came off of the metal figures. Primer and airbrushed base


they actually look pretty cool, a nice a patina


And the models that weren't primed like they should be. As you can see all the paint came of these dudes, which is great!


However the primer didn't come off the other models but I think some of the base did. Its really hard to tell and this picture isn't helping




SOOOO

ITS TIME FOR THE PURPLE





NO!!!!!

OK, I'm hugely impressed with all the magnetizing you've done, especially on the "vindicator". Also, The termies look awesome. I've seen some pretty funny models, but i've gotta say, a dreadnought with 4 legs which is about the height of a house, thats just... ridiculous.

FINE!!!!

I think it looks really good but everyone seem to hate it.

The legs will change this weekend people

since this is your first army I sugest that you should paint them black instead of al white, or you will eventually kill yourself unleas your very motivated with your first army.

These guys are looking good. I must say I love the conversion for the dreadnaught with dual CCWs and the underslung assault cannon. Briliant!

Cheers!

No, it's ok.

I have enough purple power to keep starting over or drink if it comes to that.