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Quick recipie on how I created the TMM armour of my Dark Eldar warriors, enjoy!

Stage 1: Basecoat

Basecoat black and dust white (dusting is a technique where you spray the model with white primer at a 45 degree angle on top of a black basecoat: I will cover this in a future tutorial).

Method: VMC Light Turquoise, Citadel Dark Angels Green, VMC Oily Steel (60:10:40)

Make sure this coat is even and consistent.









Stage 2: 1st highlight

Highlight all armour plates with mixture given above but with a touch more oily steel, leaving the recess between the plates. This enforces the silver pigment, and the recesses will become more pronounced when we start to shade him.








Stage 3: Glaze

Wash entire model with:

Citadel Asrumen Blue, Citadel Dark Angels Green, Citadel Black Ink (80:15:5).

I added VMC Glaze Medium to help break up the Dark Angels Green, but Thrakka green would work just as well. I only used it because I had some green left over from the last stage. Don't use too much black as this would really make the model look dull.







Stage 4: Final Highlight.

Add Citadel Mithril silver to the first mixture of:

Method: VMC Light Turquoise, Citadel Dark Angels Green, VMC Oily Steel (60:10:40)

and start highlighting the plates as you would a normal model. Introduce more mithril silver until you are highlighting with pure mithril silver.

NO MORE HIGHLIGHTS!








Stage 5: Shading.

I wash the armour 4-5 times with:

Citadel Asrumen Blue and Citadel Tharkka Green (80:20) or with pure Asrumen blue of Thrakka green.

Be selective with the area's you choose to shade, do not blindly wash the entire model. Start shading the model from the recess' of the armour and 'dragging' the wash with your brush to the extreme edges of the armour.

Do not shade the extreme edges and after a few shades, you will see that your model is taking shape.



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Stage 6: Black Lining.

I found that I could not get a satisfying contrast between the armour plates using blue and green washes alone. So, for the very deepest recess', I used black ink mixed with the above washes, then an extreme shadow of pure black ink to separate the armour plates.








And that's how I did it.

Give it a whirl, try different colours and experiment. If you have found this useful, or better yet tried this out on your own model, please get in touch. I'd love to hear your thoughts and see your pictures.

All the best,

LilLoser

That looks awesome but can you completely finish the miniature or show a completed one I would really like to see how it looks.

There is a completed (well, very nearly) finished version in my blog.

See sig. for link.

X

Awesome Tutorial, I'm probably going to adapt it a bit for the colours I'm going to use

This is really making me want to finish up my warrior squads...

Thank you everyone. To anyone who will try this, even with a different colour, I would love to see the result. Post it up here, or better yet, create a full topic. I'd love to hear how people handle this technique and what they think of it.

Here is the finished result:





I hope you have found this tutorial useful. For more pictures check out my project blog on this site.

LilLoser

I love this tutorial if only i could use it on something! but bump to share knowledge with others


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Also would this work with any other colour as base? i.e a red/purple and lastly- why do you use vallejo? are they better? or cheaper?

Cheers man.

This technique would certainly work with another colour as a base. Just try it out and see.

I have a very simple minded reason why I use Vallejo; because it's different to GW. I grew up learning how to paint with GW branded paint brushes and paints. When I started reading blogs and tutorials mentioning Vallejo I thought i'd try them out and expand my horizons. They're slightly cheaper than GW paints, come in a cool squeezy bottle (not everyone likes this, but it's still quite uncanny for me) and have slightly more paint in them.

I'd highly suggest them if you haven't used another brand of paint before. They are excellent quality and the range is huge. Although, I would warn you against oily steel; go for the model air range there (as i've found the model colour range version to be quite thick).

LilLoser

I use an airbrush alot anyway

 LilLoser wrote:
Cheers man.

This technique would certainly work with another colour as a base. Just try it out and see.

I have a very simple minded reason why I use Vallejo; because it's different to GW. I grew up learning how to paint with GW branded paint brushes and paints. When I started reading blogs and tutorials mentioning Vallejo I thought i'd try them out and expand my horizons. They're slightly cheaper than GW paints, come in a cool squeezy bottle (not everyone likes this, but it's still quite uncanny for me) and have slightly more paint in them.

I'd highly suggest them if you haven't used another brand of paint before. They are excellent quality and the range is huge. Although, I would warn you against oily steel; go for the model air range there (as i've found the model colour range version to be quite thick).

LilLoser

Gotta try it out for kabbies, soo tired of painting then doing edge lines then painting where they screwed up then messing it up then painting over that whole section again to redo it. I ve found painting DE to be beyond frustrating