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EDIT: Right now I am debating which color to use http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-polyshades#Colors: I have pictures of my models in a post below, what would look better? I am trying to mimic the "DARK TONE" from here: http://usshop.thearmypainter.com/products.php?ProductGroupId=1



As I rush out for a dentist appointment, I got to ask what Dakka's opinion on dipping is. And what the best kind is.

Sorry for rushing this out! I suppose rushing is appropriate considering it is a dipping question though, haha!

Thanks in advance!

I think using the AP dips It's a good way to improve your miniatures with ease.

Minwax Polyshades appear to be the weapon of choice, for the DIYer, but The Army Painter's Quickshades still seem to be the most popular option. I've never dipped models, so I can't really comment beyond that.

There was a bit of a stigma attached to the method, at one point, largely fueled by a flood of poorly dipped armies (poor color choices, sloppy application, glossy finish, etc.) with nice examples being few and far between. Dips are a tool (or a shortcut, if that's how you choose to spin it), just like washes, drybrushing, airbrushing, etc. that can be used to better or worse effect, depending on how it's applied and to what. You're more likely to be judged on your results than your method, so just try to do a good job, however you choose to paint your models. Dipping is less flexible, due to the single, overall color application, than other methods of shading, but if you can use appropriate colors, there's nothing inherently wrong with the technique.

Thanks, what color would you recommend for my army?

Are you trying to keep the army super bright and shiny with the cyan? What overall effect are you looking for? Cuz unless you shake the everloving bajessus out of them after dipping the trim and that tank are gonna darken up a lot.


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Are you trying to keep the army super bright and shiny with the cyan? What overall effect are you looking for? Cuz unless you shake the everloving bajessus out of them after dipping the trim and that tank are gonna darken up a lot.


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You're also gonna need a huge dip container and a lot of dip if you're gonna do the land raider in it.

I really don't have a real direction besides what will look "cool".

I'd try the Army Painter DARK tone then. Should really bring out the edges on the Land raider and add a little depth to hte marines. Definitely recommend a few test runs too, before hitting up the entire army with it. I'd hate myself if it wasn't something you like

You might want to give GW shades a try. Nuln Oil on that marine may add a ton of depth without needing to 'lern2dip'. Nice thing about shades is you can slather it on thick and then draw off extra liquid with a dry brush to adjust the tension.

I wouldn't recommend dipping a Landraider. A shade done in sections would be much better IMHO.

I agree on the land raider post, not to mention it would be ridiculous to have a dipping container that huge and that much dip for it.

nkelsch wrote:
You might want to give GW shades a try. Nuln Oil on that marine may add a ton of depth without needing to 'lern2dip'. Nice thing about shades is you can slather it on thick and then draw off extra liquid with a dry brush to adjust the tension.

I wouldn't recommend dipping a Landraider. A shade done in sections would be much better IMHO.

I got badab black (old school nuln oil) and I can't tell the marines apart from the ones I havnt shaded. Maybe Im just not doing it right...


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Oh, and I have 6 drop pods, should i not dip these?


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 Bobaram wrote:
I'd try the Army Painter DARK tone then. Should really bring out the edges on the Land raider and add a little depth to hte marines. Definitely recommend a few test runs too, before hitting up the entire army with it. I'd hate myself if it wasn't something you like

Army painter is 3x as expensive as local Miniwax, which shade of miniwax is closest to the dark tone? "http://www.minwax.com/wood-products/preparation/minwax-polyshades#Colors" Classic black, mahogany, tudor? Something else? None of them? Should I just bite the bullet and fork over $40 for the army painter?

I've never used anything other than Army Painter, so I really can't give you an opinion on that. Sorry man!

You can brush on the Miniwax or Army painter dips. A lot of the time it is a better method as well, because you don't get as much wastage, and you manage to get more accurate and controlled application so it is much easier to clean up later.

As for opinion on it, I never understood the vitriol that people who used it got, it just another tool in the arsenal that we have as hobbyists. Plus at the end of the day it is your hobby so do want you want. And if it gets more painted armies on the table then I am all for it.

Winter wrote:
You can brush on the Miniwax or Army painter dips. A lot of the time it is a better method as well, because you don't get as much wastage, and you manage to get more accurate and controlled application so it is much easier to clean up later.

As for opinion on it, I never understood the vitriol that people who used it got, it just another tool in the arsenal that we have as hobbyists. Plus at the end of the day it is your hobby so do want you want. And if it gets more painted armies on the table then I am all for it.

Good idea with the painting it on! I can get a cheap brush and do that with the LRs and DPs!


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http://gfbrobot.com/2010/12/03/andrews-guide-to-dipping-minis/ Says use antique walnut (satin?). does this seem right for my pieces?

I personally would recommend getting better at handpainting before you start to dip, otherwise you will end up using dipping as a crutch and you'll never improve your painting skills, so if your goal is to be a better painter, I would start handpainting more and more and then maybe dip later on if you are still interested in it, personally I learned how to paint proficiently before I started to use dips of any kind, and even then I only did it for an army that I didn't really care about how it looked, I just wanted it to be tabletop ready as soon as possible

One word of caution about dipping: It looks like complete ass unless you spray it with matte sealant afterward. Testors Dullcote is pretty much the standard for this.

You also probably don't want to dip models that are already based with static grass.

army painter ink washes are better.

they basically do a better job than the dip does only with no annoying gloss and far less dry time.

dip is great protection though, for metal models it's a good idea just for the protection alone.

 NuggzTheNinja wrote:
One word of caution about dipping: It looks like complete ass unless you spray it with matte sealant afterward. Testors Dullcote is pretty much the standard for this.

You also probably don't want to dip models that are already based with static grass.

I would actually put my vote against any spray varnish because of the frosting effect it can cause. I find the best thing to do is airbrush on Vallejo matte varnish. No frost, same effect, less expensive (if you have an airbrush, and you probably want one anyway if painting batches quickly is your thing)

I haven't had good results with minwax and blues. I usually stick to things in the vague spectrum of brown, or a step or two away. Green is fine, red isn't a problem, yellow actually looks pretty nice with a really dark dip (imo), my grey stuff has ended up a little funny though, so I'm a tad concerned for the blue, I haven't tried it much though, could work out!

For your cheap brush, mineral spirits should get the stain out so you can reuse it, and they're cheapish.

I use antique walnut for average/most jobs. It is dark enough to show up, but not so dark as to completely change things up. Bombay mahogany, for instance, can outright destroy/blend colors... however I have put it to what I consider good use.

I don't have a before picture, unfortunately, but this zombie has been done with antique walnut over bleached bone fatigues and a fairly dark brown, boltgun metal, and foundation tallarn flesh.


And an example of what bombay mahogany would do to a model:


Anyway, hope any of that was helpful. I find dipping to be great, especially if you are trying to get a tabletop quality army done in a hurry! I'd rather see a well dipped army over something that was just basecoated, for darn sure. Unless you're trying to do slimy nids though, the matte top coat is pretty much mandatory.

Would the brown mess up the blue or white?

Maybe a wash is best.

 StyleXHobby wrote:
Maybe a wash is best.

I have badab black, but I can't get any results that I can notice.

In general, BROWN is for warm colors, BLACK is for cold.

In my experience, every dip I have used is Brownish, which makes organic models like flesh, and dirty ork armor look great. Also good for bone/yellow/red marines. Grimdork's photos are spot on, you totally need to matte seal them or else they will be super glossy.

I am super surprised you see no difference on your models with wash. Your blue and white details should be super noticeable when you wash/shade them with baldab black. Did you attempt to water down the wash? I find you can slop it on right out of the bottle.

nkelsch wrote:
In general, BROWN is for warm colors, BLACK is for cold.

In my experience, every dip I have used is Brownish, which makes organic models like flesh, and dirty ork armor look great. Also good for bone/yellow/red marines. Grimdork's photos are spot on, you totally need to matte seal them or else they will be super glossy.

I am super surprised you see no difference on your models with wash. Your blue and white details should be super noticeable when you wash/shade them with baldab black. Did you attempt to water down the wash? I find you can slop it on right out of the bottle.

Maybe thats the problem, I water the down washes 50/50. I'll give it another go tonight after the family settles.

Edit: Oh, and if brown is for warm colors, should I not use them on my models, since my colors are black/lightblue/white?? What color should I use?

Try not watering down your wash/shade at all, and use BLACK for blue/grey/white. Watering it down messes with the tension IMHO. Let it sit, remove an excess with a dry brush then let it dry naturally.

What you may find, especially on your helmet, is the black will stain the white to be grey, but will give depth, then you pick out the tips with white later.

Here are some pics of when I tried using mine as Tudor black. First is before, then dipped, then with matte dulling spray.
http://imgur.com/a/ZAxcY

Johnny9s wrote:
Here are some pics of when I tried using mine as Tudor black. First is before, then dipped, then with matte dulling spray.
http://imgur.com/a/ZAxcY

Wow tudor had a remarkable outcome. Absolutely beautiful. I may give that a shot, that may react better with my black, and with these results I may just repaint my army crimson fists if I don't get the results I want with my blue.

Hmm, I couldn't find any Tudor when I first looked locally. I may have to try it out, classic black is practically paint its so opaque.

I dipped those models then spun them with an electric drill to get rid of the excess. It worked really well.

Yeah, I almost always use the drill if I dip anything ogre sized (if its plastic!) and below. OFC brush-on isn't necessary to spin.

I just happen to mount almost all of my models onto nails for painting anyway so it works out rather well.

Johnny9s wrote:
I dipped those models then spun them with an electric drill to get rid of the excess. It worked really well.

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Lol, I just imagine the first time somebody does this, just EVERYWHERE covered in wood stain.