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Made in gb
Is 'Eavy Metal Calling?





UK

I was thinking earlier about this regarding my own models, deciding that, while there was a huge variety of figures, the same stuff kept appearing in the paintjobs. I've always liked using washes and trying to keep a nice, gritty scheme. I'm not such a fan of NMM, but I do like to use OSL.

So, Dakka, are there any particular painting styles/techniques that you like to use, or like seeing? Is there a style that you think suits a particular army? Do you use different techniques if you have multiple armies, or do you prefer uniformity?

Discuss...

 
   
Made in gb
Courageous Space Marine Captain






Glasgow, Scotland

I like to drybrush with my Nids as opposed to feather the colours as this is what I was originally guided to do. It also comes out a lot better and nicer in my opinion.

I like a simple, clean paintjob on my MEQ, even my Khorne Marines. I even went as far as to write fluff about how they're armour is cursed to drink away all the blood from their armour and weapons, which frustrates the hell out of them as they want to bathe in a tide of blood and be immersed in it.

For my GK, I like using blue wash to get the eyes, bluetint armour and the weapons, as this is what I started. I fill the eye lenses with blue wash and add a tiny bit of varnish while wet to solidify it that dark navy colour.

And finally, with my Blood Ravens I like to highlight. That's all. I use gloss on eye lenses and did OSL once on a model, along with WB but only that once.

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Made in us
Androgynous Daemon Prince of Slaanesh





Norwalk, Connecticut

I started with regularly painting each section the color I wanted, learned how to drybrush and used that over the regular painting and solely did that for a while. After getting washes, it's MUCH faster and looks great. I prefer washes over everything else at this point and my models are done in half the time.

Reality is a nice place to visit, but I'd hate to live there.

Manchu wrote:I'm a Catholic. We eat our God.


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Made in ca
Rampaging Carnifex




West Coast, Canada

Gravel bases, washed heavily, with large rocks to break up the monotony. I can't get away from it! It looks good, even though I need to branch out a bit. Maybe static grass would be a good idea.

Also, high gloss finish on the Tyranids!

   
Made in gb
Dipping With Wood Stain





York, UK

I love wet blending, even if I am not brilliant at it.

I just need practice

"Do you think it is an easy task to inflate a dog?" - Cervantes

"Do you have a map of the cat?" - Richard Feynman

How to paint Skeletons the way I do if that's something you'd fancy trying. 
   
Made in gb
Plummeting Black Templar Thunderhawk Pilot





Wisbech

Airbrushed camo. Simple to do, and looks amazing on ANY model. You can do soft edge or hard edge if you use a stencil.
   
Made in us
Trustworthy Shas'vre




DFW area Texas - Rarely

Great thread!

Lazzurus - on your camo what kind of stencil are you using?(tape? etc).

My Favorites -
Decals on my tau - gloss coat, decal (with setter and softer) then matte finish at the end. looks great.

My gooey alien nids - I have a very unique color scheme that ends up looking like "chitin" or crab shell (mabye roach shell) that I get from a mix of colors followed by a polyshade dip - I get great results from it -
* awesome color transformation (the base color is almost orange - the final color is a rich orange red)
* goo! (alien goo ...hard to describe)
* glossy!

My other fav technique is my OSL chrome and metal affects on my necrons, its very difficult to pull off however, so I am second guessing it for my entire army.


DavePak
"Remember, in life, the only thing you absolutely control is your own attitude - do not squander that power."
Fully Painted armies:
TAU: 10k Nids: 9600 Marines: 4000 Crons: 7600
Actor, Gamer, Comic, Corporate Nerd
 
   
Made in gb
Is 'Eavy Metal Calling?





UK

Interesting replies, everyone, keep them coming.

@Davethepak, that scheme for the nids sounds awesome. Do you have some pics of the process and finished result?

@professionalamateur: I've looked into wet blending, and it does look difficult. I'm personally not a fan of some cases where I've seen it used (I don't really think it suits SM, the contrast is often too much) but I've seen some on Eldar and Tau that looks great.

 
   
Made in ca
Pustulating Plague Priest






 Deadshot wrote:
I like to drybrush with my Nids as opposed to feather the colours as this is what I was originally guided to do. It also comes out a lot better and nicer in my opinion.


I think I do this too but more because I'm not very good at feathering.

Also after completely painting a Salamander, I always dry brush some sort of steel-like metallic paint, usually bolt gun metal (I forget the what the new version's called).

Faithful... Enlightened... Ambitious... Brethren... WE NEED A NEW DRIVER! THIS ONE IS DEAD!  
   
Made in us
Trustworthy Shas'vre




DFW area Texas - Rarely

I know some people give "dipping" a bad rap, but I have found a lot of success with it and that doing it properly for the correct coverage and color transformation you want is a bit of an art.

I don't actually "dip" the model in the varnish, I brush it on, in different thicknesses to give more control over the affect and the color saturation.

here are a few pics of my nids;

The pics of the malenthrope are a bit blury, but you can see the wip one (I am still working on some details and pre shading) the pre -dip color - and the transformation after.

Spoiler:

Had a problem putting the images in a spoiler tag, my apologies...
[Thumb - zoey1.jpg]
Zoey

[Thumb - hg1-1.jpg]
Two hive guard

[Thumb - mal_done01.jpg]
Malenthrope

[Thumb - mal_wip01.jpg]
A pre dip WIP

This message was edited 2 times. Last update was at 2013/10/26 20:48:16


DavePak
"Remember, in life, the only thing you absolutely control is your own attitude - do not squander that power."
Fully Painted armies:
TAU: 10k Nids: 9600 Marines: 4000 Crons: 7600
Actor, Gamer, Comic, Corporate Nerd
 
   
Made in gb
Is 'Eavy Metal Calling?





UK

@Dave: that is awesome, the gradual change in colour gradient is amazing, especially given the far more uniform base. It really does look like cockroach carapace.

 
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran





down south

I dont have an airbrush but I like to use silly putty to mask models for camouflage. I use testors or tamiya spray cans. You can still get the soft edges if you shape the putty in more of a tube shape rather than pressing it in flat. Ive used it on my dust models to good effect. Infantry would probably still need an airbrush.
   
Made in ie
Hurr! Ogryn Bone 'Ead!






I like dry brushing.
I often use it when doing blood and rust..

Check out my current short story project "When a World Dies" http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/617737.page#7253683
 
   
Made in ca
Enigmatic Chaos Sorcerer





British Columbia

If the model isn't mostly composed of flat areas (marines, eldar etc.) I love doing the basecoats by heavily drybrushing the figure white and then inking the colors on to get started. Speeds things up immensely and I can get units on the table really quickly.

Having said that I keep starting those largely panelled factions...
Derp.

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Made in ca
Monstrous Master Moulder



Space Cowboy Cruising Around Olympus Mons

Well my thing right now is a combination of techniques because I am trying to speed paint over 100 skaven (need to get another 40-60)
I do prime, layers, wash repeat (no highlights because they are clanrats and in blocks of 50 I don't see the need for highlight other than the front ranks)

So basically my favorite technique is washes at the moment. AGRAX EARTHSHADE for the win!
   
Made in gb
Is 'Eavy Metal Calling?





UK

chiefbigredman wrote:


So basically my favorite technique is washes at the moment. AGRAX EARTHSHADE for the win!


Agreed, I am a huge fan of washes, to the point where every painting method I have includes the words: 'apply black wash, liberally'. It's fast, it's efficient, and it can look pretty good. Anything that can get 100+ guardsmen to a good tabletop quality in less that 36 hours is all right by me. I just wish I could find some Devlan Mud (miracle wash, as my gaming group calls it), a local hobby store has hundreds of the older GW paints really cheap, but no Devlan or Badab Black. Agrax is nice, but I tend to just use a mix of pure black /brown and Water.

 
   
Made in gb
Bane Knight




Inverness, Scotland.

Oil washes onto a glossed model. It's great for achieving neat panel lines, or simply to make a model look aged and dirty; I especially like using this technique on aircraft models.
   
Made in gb
Morphing Obliterator




Medrengard

Water based inks over base coat. Then layer over the ink, which partially bleeds through the layers. Then seal and highlight. Gives a great aged look to most colour schemes.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/10/27 22:05:56


12000 pts
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Made in gb
Perfect Shot Dark Angels Predator Pilot





Belfast

Drybrushing up layers on my deathwing, is thoroughly theraputic and gives the effect that they are wearing bone white armour that has been through the ruins of a hive city or space hulk that is full of god only knows what.



For the Lion and Terra!

Because nothing in the galaxy is black and white, Mankind views the Space Marines as a last resort. The last line. When all else fails. They take up the burden. The noble defenders of Mankind. The last hope.

With finecast you can bypass the washing stage and throw them straight into the bin.

Or cut out the middleman and just flush some money down the toilet.
-Chromedog 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




My favorite technique ATM is OSL. Not overpowering OSL but subtle and reserved. Whether it's from my airbrush or just a dry brush I have done it on all my necrons and most of my GK.

That and xenithal high lighting although I'm not very good a it quite yet.
   
Made in ca
Guarded Grey Knight Terminator





Calgary, Alberta

Painting the vast majority of a model with only various washes and drybrushing. Most of my daemons and commissioned Tyranids were done that way. It needs almost no attention to do.

One unbreakable shield against the coming darkness, One last blade forged in defiance of fate.
 
   
Made in us
Perfect Shot Ultramarine Predator Pilot






San Jose, California

Wet blending, area highlights, glaze, wash (not in that order). subtle 4-5 layers of highlighting for very lifelike color transitions is what I do on hq models as well.

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Made in us
Fighter Ace






Denver, CO

I love layering the most. Building up colors and leaving recesses dark. I also like really thin paint with tons of layers to build up an overall effect that looks the same across the model. I just ned more practice to not leave tide marks everywhere!

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Made in de
Shunting Grey Knight Interceptor






I am always most cheery when it comes to applying washes and glazes. Basing is a process that I like quite a lot, too.^^

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When beset by doubt,
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Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





Binghamton, NY

Stylistically, while I don't bother with the whole "realistically desaturated to scale" thing, I tend to shy away from really bold, bright, "cartoony" colors. In terms of technique, this means occasionally letting my highlights go a little pastel (instead of going neon, where some of the brighter colors trend), then restoring proper color saturation with a final glaze, usually of diluted acrylic ink or thin layers of a premixed wash.

I don't do it on every surface ("with every color" works just as well, here), but it's pretty rare that a model ends up without at least one or two surfaces receiving a glaze. Reds almost always receive that treatment, as does the green for my Ork skin, which I want a bit more vivid than, say, the green of a woodland camo paintjob. As an added bonus (or is it the real reason I do it? ), it helps smooth out any transitions between layers that ended up a little rough/stark.

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Made in jp
Warning From Magnus? Not Listening!





Melbourne, Australia

Mine is directional highlighting. It's a bit like NMM but waaay simpler - basically layer lighter colours towards where the light would go. I use it as a general rule not for everything (SM or WoC shields are where I use it most - those big smooth areas)

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Made in nz
Deadly Dire Avenger






A lot of people I know would Basecoat, Wash, Clean up, Highlight a few times, and your done. I like to wash last giving my models a dirtier look which I think looks pretty good on space marines. Also instead of washing red with the red wash. I use Agrax Earthshade ( DEVLAN MUD!!!! FTW!).

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2013/10/29 07:39:06


 
   
 
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