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Hey all I've never posted a pic up of a project, but I figured I would to get some input/feedback/ advice! I'm doing a desert raider-esque themed army. And am working on some veterans! I'm trying to green stuff Shemaghs onto them, but I'm having a problem with the putty seeming too sticky? Do I just need to wet my fingers and tools more? Or give it a few minutes to solidify after I mix it? (First time using green stuff...)

I've never wetted green stuff before I always use it dry, maybe you haven't kneaded the green stuff properly and have left steaks of the yellow stickier component in it.

Wetting your fingers is fine (and common), as is using a water based lubricant like ky jelly

Thanks for the wetting advice guys ! Sorry I had some problems uploading the pics with my phone so I had to send it to facebook, then save them on my laptop, then upload them. Haha. Hope they look ok

That came out looking awesome

kb_lock wrote:
Wetting your fingers is fine (and common), as is using a water based lubricant like ky jelly

Saliva and Vaseline are also excellent for preventing tools and fingers sticking to the stuff. I would also recommend Clay (or paint) shapers, rubber tools that don't stick, even without lubricant, and really help work GS easily.

First time using Green Stuff? Pretty good work I'd say, your guy's scarfs are really great looking and more importantly adds that wee bit of character that marks them out from the regular troops, keep it up!

As to working with GS, the key is to keep your tools wet (water, saliva or lube) and when mixing remember to discard the middle of the strip where the blue and yellow putties meet. Once its kneaded definitely leave it for 5 or 10 minutes before starting to work with it.

 VikingChild wrote:
First time using Green Stuff? Pretty good work I'd say, your guy's scarfs are really great looking and more importantly adds that wee bit of character that marks them out from the regular troops, keep it up!

As to working with GS, the key is to keep your tools wet (water, saliva or lube) and when mixing remember to discard the middle of the strip where the blue and yellow putties meet. Once its kneaded definitely leave it for 5 or 10 minutes before starting to work with it.

Thanks! I appreciate the compliment and the advice!

Or just don't but the GS tape & get it in separate tubes instead (which is often cheaper anyway).

 Flinty wrote:

kb_lock wrote:
Wetting your fingers is fine (and common), as is using a water based lubricant like ky jelly

Saliva and Vaseline are also excellent for preventing tools and fingers sticking to the stuff. I would also recommend Clay (or paint) shapers, rubber tools that don't stick, even without lubricant, and really help work GS easily.

Nose oil as well

As mentioned, the stickiness is just a property of the material. I found GS downright hellish to use, at first, but soon grew used to its quirks. Doesn't seem to have caused you too much trouble, though - the sculpting compares favorably to work I've seen from people with far more experience with the stuff.

If you plan to keep using GS, I'd second Flinty's suggestion about picking up a set of clay/colour shapers. Not terribly expensive and quite useful, both for the non-stick nature of the silicone tips and also for their give, which helps in smoothing operations where a lubricated fingertip would prove too cumbersome. Even with a full set (at least a dozen, counting by heads) of metal tools, I use my five silicone shapers for probably 80% of my sculpting work, from rough forming to final smoothing.

Mil put and green stuff are pretty much the same right? Millput is much cheaper and seems to come seperatly more often than not.

Miliputt is a bit dryer and less sticky, and dries more brittle, but yeah, pretty much the same

There's also brownstuff, greystuff, ProCreate, and others - all 2-part epoxy putties, all with slightly different working and cured properties. You can also intermix them to hybridize the properties. Combining GS and Miliputt is popular - it makes the GS somewhat less sticky during work and harder after cure, allowing for abrasive finishing, while retaining much of the spring and stretch that make it so good for organic shapes.