Yeah they look pretty good! I guess papercraft *does* tend to turn out well, if you know what you're doing. I stay away from it, but I definitely appreciate a well executed example as you have here.
I prefer papercraft for modern buildings. There are just soo many tiny details that look good printed, but would just be a nightmare to model and paint by hand.
The biggest downside to stock paperpcraft is the durability. Cardstock, by itself will eventually get crushed or warped. I solved that problem with these by mounting all the walls and roofs to foamcore, with foamcore traingle supports on the inside.
I've always planned on making more, but now that I'm playing 40K again, I just don't them as much.
gosh... whenever i try to build a papercraft model i soon give in... somehow i never get the patience for these
i need to see where i left off here... since then it seems you have willllldly spaced out on so many armies...
Automatically Appended Next Post: my top most favorite model is your reaper bones model gone slaneesh...that is an amazing piece...your sculpting really is getting as good as your scratchbuildiing!
Thank you for the compliment on my sculpting. Always been better at building models than painting them.
I seriously suffer from some miniatures related ADD. Too many armies and too many games for me to keep focus on a single force for long. I'm currently working on Daemons, Ork Trukks, and in my head I'm planning out my Eldar and Imperial Knight forces, as well as thinking about finishing up those drop pods for my space marines, and getting a few Hive tyrants for my Tyranids...
The Giantess, at least that's what I'm calling her on my army list, is one of my favorites as well.
I saw these in a dollar store months ago, and thought they were too big for modern miniatures, but about a week ago, someone mentioned using them as Ork Trukks.
Unmodified, I think they are kind of crap as Ork trukks, but they do have potential.
Cut off the back end, and they look more truck like
Add some bottelcap wheel covers and some cross stitch grating for armored windows
and even though I haven't touched my Orks in months, they'll at least have 3 sweet new rides when I do
and I mentioned I built a bridge right ?
After trying a half dozen pairs of wings, I settled on smaller and feathery, for my FateWeaver custom
hobby ADD comes with the hobby i guess... i suffer from that since day one...
bridge is looking promising... i wonder tho if the railings could be a bit thicker... for a bridge that is as wide as that?
and...i will try to build your walls you did some ages ago as pdf´s... trying to build up a labyrinth with my son as a gaming table... we´ll see if this might work...
EyeamRai wrote:Those dollar store ork trukks are fething ridiculous!!
Thanks, they are coming along well. I went back to buy a few more this morning and they were all gone. Going to try one in a neighboring city and see if I can find some.
Viktor von Domm wrote:hobby ADD comes with the hobby i guess... i suffer from that since day one...
They key is to form your own massively successful gaming company, so you can sit around all day modelling and gaming.
I haven't quite worked out how to do that yet
bridge is looking promising... i wonder tho if the railings could be a bit thicker... for a bridge that is as wide as that?
It stated out as an O scale railroad kit, I must have bought a decade ago. I turned the central support sideways to increase the width of the model, so I could fit a LandRaider on it.
If it were built out of conventional materials, it probably would need more support, but those space age futre metals are good stuff.
I'll look into fattening it up a bit
and...i will try to build your walls you did some ages ago as pdf´s... trying to build up a labyrinth with my son as a gaming table... we´ll see if this might work...
I'd love to see what you do with it.
If you get around to it, let me know. I was thinking of adding few more sizes and a Aegis Defense Line variant of it.
Discovered that high temp glue gun and 1 pieced silicone molds lets you produce models that are completely finished casting and curing in under 10 minutes.
Going to go dig out some of my old 2 piece molds that were used for lead and/or resin and see if the glue stays fluid long enough to flow into the molds properly. Kind of a long shot, but it would revolutionize how I cast if it works.
Oooh, do let me know how it works out, hotglue is one of my favorite materials
I think as far as the getting the glue in fast enough, you'd need relatively small molds, a big glue gun, and a fast draw. But good luck, color me intrigued.
GrimDork wrote: I think as far as the getting the glue in fast enough, you'd need relatively small molds, a big glue gun, and a fast draw.
I bought the biggest and hottest high temp gun AC MOORE had, with this in mind.
To be honest though, if I can get it to work with weapons molds, I'll be delighted.
I've had my eye on converting figures to Imperial Guardsman, but the lack of lasguns, has slowed it to a crawl.
Yesterday, I had the option to buy 150 WWII 28mm figures at a bargain price, and left them behind knowing that 120 lasguns would run me over $100.
In concept I have no issue with rifles counting as lasguns, I've even done it with Warhammer Fantasy Riflemen, but the more true 28mm scale weapons look like puny sticks in their hands next to a lasgun. It just doesn't look right, when mixed with 40k models.
hmmm... that looks like a cool...er...hot... addition to modelling...i am very interested to see if this would work...
as for the lasgun problems...why not scratch built them? i understand that the sheer amount of them would be too a horror in itself... hmmm... i do own a fair share spare ones... if you need a good amount to start the mould making process...
If you want to send some lasguns my way, I'm sure I could make use of them. I could return the favor and send you a supply drop as well.
Do you have any use for Screamers or Scarabs ?
Your Imperial Guard could strap dead screamer to the hood of their vehicles, or maybe scarabs crawling around on everything.
Found some old molds and tried casting with hot glue.
Just injecting it there, or relying on gravity to feed the mold, like you can both do with resin, doesn't work.
You need to inject a big wad of molten glue in there and sandwich the mold around it like you were working with hot play doh.
The results are not perfect. There WILL be flash to trim and air bubbles. Next time I'll try adding talc, like you can do with lead casting, to see if that helps with air bubbles.
I want to say they are about 90% perfect. I would have no problem using the vehicle related bits, screamers, discs, or scarabs . The people are hard to say at this point. The material being translucent makes it difficult to make out the details, as well as photograph apparantly.
I'm going to give them a quick white basecoat, and a black wash to bring out the detail, then take some better pics for you guys.
This technique would probably make the coolest Tau Stealth Suits.
it looks as if this sure has potential... i think either organic or technical will have the best results... i could find arguments for either to be the best items for that production...hmm... tomorrow i could jump head first into my bitz box...so pm me your adress and i will see to it that an international conflict happens because i send guns to the states of A....
Hmm yeah maybe hotglue is the new clear resin for stealth effects
Let us know how it turns out, I have yet to make molds of anything but I've kind of been wanting to. Involving hotglue in the process would likely inspire some more enthusiasm.
It's kind of funny that I have this new method of cheaper casting at about the time I don't really want or need to cast anything. I may just start producing extra Screamers and see if I can sell some on Ebay.
In the mean time, my gaming group is taking a couple weeks break from playing 40K to play Zombicide, now that the season 3 items have arrived.
Going to try and use this time to cook up something new and suprising for my foes. I'm feeling emboldened after my success with the screamers and I'm thinking of branching out into Eldar Jetbikes and possibely a drone version of Necron Tomblades. I'm thinking something like a scaled up BFG Scythe for the basic shape of the Tomb Blade, with a pyramid shaped drone for a pilot.
Some concept doodles I worked up for Eldar Jetbikes.
Went with an enclosed design so they don't have to be organ doners. Well that, and this way I don't have to sculpt riders.
The second from the right looked like it should be Padme's personal ride, so I added the trademark Eldar features that are all terible for areodynamics, but look cool.
I think 7th edition is the edition where I just field all the combinations that amuse me and annoy my more competitive opponents.
When were playing low point values, overwhelmed them with cheap boyz.
When we got serious, overwhelmed them with Crypteks and Scarabs.
When they complained about Crypteks, went total scarab farm.
When they compained about scarabs, went with never ending amounts of Pink Horrors.
When they complained about the Pink Horrors, switched to ovewhelming them with Keeper of Secrets.
When they complained my foot sloggin Daemons were too slow, added a screamer star.
What's next ? Nothing but Eldar jetbikes ?......muhahhahahaha
Maybe, but I still have a bunch of Nurgle figures I want to convert. I'm going to try sculpting a Nurgling and see how that goes.
while i have to agree, the right concept sketch looks very eldar and also very good... and that the enclosed idea is sound... i think you will be getting issues and argument over the width of the piece... i have currently no real solution for that problem tho... in essence i picture an enclosed jetbike variant like a BMW
Spoiler:
but that would make you the laughing stock for any gaming table...well... an annoying strategy...so...
I think as longs as my sculpt is at least as big as a standard Eldar jetbike no one will complain, but yeah I hadn't thought about the possible disadvantages to playing with them if they are bigger.
Also, I would totally play with jetbikes based on the design you've shown. Just think it would be too much of a pain to sculpt and cast models like that. Going to keep an eye out for O scale models like that.
Sorry that I haven't posted much. Been dealing with random things offline. Car stuff, roof leak, cleaning out cellar, solar panels, Zombicide, making washes, and painting up old projects.
I'll try to get some pics up soon. Worked on painting Zombies, chemical vats, bottlecap terrain, random thingamabobs, detailed out some other sutff, added rivets here and there, etc.
Gave on my scratch built drop pods to a friend, who's painting it up in Salamander's Chapter colors. I'll get some pics of that too.
I'm sitting on a stash of nearly 20 Iron Man Hulkbuster Armors that I was saving for an all human model Tau force, but I'm seeing other people use the same model for Cult Mechanicus Kastellans. So, now I'm toying with the idea of making a Cut Mechanicus Army.
20 hulkbusters??? WTF... how come you always find so many of everything?... wow...
and currently a postal service strike is keeping me from actually jumping into sending you the guns...but that will soon hopefully be fixed on both ends...
Viktor von Domm wrote:20 hulkbusters??? WTF... how come you always find so many of everything?... wow...
They guys selling them on Ebay are buying them bulk from China. I bought mine bulk from China .
EyeamRai wrote:I'm starting a Cult Mechanicus army too!
It's a cool army. Cyborgs, Robots, and tons of exotic weaponry.
shasolenzabi wrote:Those generic troops painted up nicely!
Mine are still unpainted. I mined the Proxie Models site and Dakka for images. Probably should have mentioned that to avoid confustion.
I do really like the paint job in the last image. It's the one that convinced me to buy the models.
Automatically Appended Next Post: A terrain quicky I put together with some random stuff I had in front of me.
Flipped that lid over and added a layer of foam core to the interior, so that when assembled the shelf is at 6". I try to keep most of my terrain at 3" intervals, so I can add walk ways between them.
Admittedly, I almost never do, but I like to have the option.
This is what I orginally put together.
Then decided to add the support struts to break up the silouhette and provide additional cover.
Probably not my greatest terrain creation ever, but it went from concept to being built in under 10 minutes.
I'm still waiting on Doors, from the Trash Bash Bits Kickstarter, but I'll probably add one of those to this when they arrive.
My son would walk aways with anything that had to do with Plants Vs Zombies, but I actually do have a Daemon Rhino I sculpted, that I don't think I wver took pictures of. I'll see if I can dig it out.
In the mean time I'll post this random series of images of stuff I've been working on
Worked on the base of Great Unclean Cyclops
Rededicated some D&D Lemures to Nurgle
Painted some old project to give it new life
Some bottlecap barricades
The Batsignal
Cheated and just bought it as it is on Amazon
Trying out a paint job on a potential replacement for Necron Tomb Blades
Another project I added details to, that needs some paint.
There are a few more shots of this this piece at various points in progress in the gallery
I have already made a ton of 2.5D modular dungeon tiles, DMGinfo style, but I haven't had the time to paint them yet. They just don't photgraph well when they are all white.
Also have more photos of additional traps I have finished, that I just need to crop and upload.
Taking a 40K break, and avoiding the whole Age of Sigmar mess, to play D&D 5E, and D&D terrain is an interesting diversion for my modelling skills.
I got to build some more tiles and paint up some more accessories yesterday
Very pleased with the well. It was just a few scraps of dollar store foam core, with the paper pealed off one side, and the bricks engraved with a pencil.
So you peel the paper off and then what do you use to etch the grout line. Some kind of tiny file? That looks more cost effective than coating the same foam core with Spackle and then carving... Gonna steal...
Viktor von Domm wrote:i showed my son the traps and the dungeon work... i think he wants me to do this too^^... the traps are shear awesomeness!!! and the well looks really beautiful too!
Thanks !
I'd love to see anything you do with this. I'll be checking your P&M blog for updates
GrimDork wrote:So you peel the paper off and then what do you use to etch the grout line. Some kind of tiny file? That looks more cost effective than coating the same foam core with Spackle and then carving... Gonna steal...
Well is sexy.
Super cost effective. I used an exacto knife to score the brick lines then went over them with a ball point pen and my fingernails.
Dollar Tree Foam Core is actually better suited for than the more expensive Elmer's brand foam core, since the paper peels off much easier, and without using water.
Considering how well it turned out, pun intended, I may do all the trim to my rooms in that texture.
If I hadn't made a ton of tiles already, I may have done them that way as well, but then again if I did, it would have vastly increased the crafting time.
Peeling the foamcore is an old trick, but a very good one. Never thought the cheap stuff would work better. Is it the stuff with the really slick paper? I've seen regular foamcore peeled and then used for all sorts of textures.
These are all really, really cool. Good thing I subbed your thread some time ago
The cheap stuff has a really matte finish, is slightly thinner per sheet, and is more pliable. All things I used to consider drawbacks, but are now consider virtues.
That's pretty cool, and looks like you can crank them out faster and store them easier than fully 3d dungeon rooms. I'm still going for the later because they'll be on display as much as they'll be used sadly, but I definitely can appreciate the 2.5d dungeon scenery for regular gamers.
my own tiles are based on a square of 7cm....so that tile would be around 14 cm...
i like that layered look... that could be indeed a way to manage that stone floor look....hmm...i think you could add a bit of sand to the mix to break up the perhaps monotonous pattern?
There is no real need to tile the floors. A bit of sand for texure, like you mentioned, and some paint is all you need. I'm just having fun experimenting with different techniques.
Right now I'm thinking I'm going to find a quick way to paint them, probably with sponges and stamps, and then make more detailed rooms later, as needed.
The only issue I'm having at the moment is a conflict between wanting to make modular tiles and a desire for making tiles for the adventure, The Mines of Phandelver, my group is currently playing through, which is not terribely modular in design.
I've always thought the matte finish was a virtue, since it takes paint much better than the slick finish. And is easier to cut cleanly.
Very cool stuff. Have you considered making the walls detachable, so you can build bigger rooms from the tiles you have? (pardon if you've mentioned this already. I'm diligent about looking at photos, not so much about reading. The internet is a visual medium after all.)
they use higher wall sections tho... i guess if you want certain settings taller walls are needed
as for the painting of the ground... we have a round kitchen sponge... used for cleaning out bottles... it is broken... but in my mind i see a rolling stamp...if i plan it carefully this might work even...
Automatically Appended Next Post: at red... there are tiles shown above that have not on all four sides walls...thus you can arrange it to have truly giant rooms...if you puzzle them together as you see fit...even non square rooms are thus possible...
I've done modular walls with cardstock dungeon stuff, but the problem with them becomes having to find a way to secure them while playing, and they are more difficult to store.
In the past I've built 3D dungeons, with seperate walls, and magnetic bases. It can look great, but it's just more work to build, paint, store, and is a pain to transport.
Such cool D&D stuff! I wish I could be the kind of DM that made 3d walls and traps and such but I craft and paint so slowly. I would never run any games!
The D&D/RPG scenery stuff you've been putting together is very nice. I'd be tempted to make some as well after looking through these, but my group rarely manages to play D&D/PF. Great work!
My plan is to hammer out a basic set of tiles over the next couple of weeks and then I could relax and make special rooms here and there as needed. Trying to keep the build and paint job simple, to expedite that goal.
^ that was my plan too, besides I need to fully get my group/family to be hooked up with that idea first...while the initial interest is strong it needn't stay that way...and unfortunately I have no other peeps to play with...
I'm sure DMGINFO covered angled tiles at some point, but he has 80+ videos so it's possible it's just burried.
If you check out Wyloch's videos he has fewer videos, but makes more detailed tiles.
He also has a video that specifically covers slanted and curved tiles.
wow...you sure know how o drag one into the deeper bowels of the rabbit hole...^^
cool thank you...maybe i will even experiment with curved tiles... that looks very nice that way...but then i have to find a new way to build the walls...my wood isn´t bendy enough...(no pun intended...)
Wyloch has some great stuff, but he's pretty married to idea of creating small Dwarven Forge Sized and styled pieces that allow him to recreate D&D 0E and 1E style maps.
I personally dislike that style map because the wall thickness is almost nonexistant. I can recall 1st and 2nd edition adventures where players hammered through the walls themselves, becuase they were apparantly only 6 or so inches thick, according to the maps.
"The door is trapped, and we have no thief"
"It's okay, the wall has about 20HP per square foot. The fighters can bash a man sized hole through the wall in a few minutes"
Bwahaha, I like reasoning like that but only to a point That's when you let them do it a couple of times but when they decide to use their usual method in a room that's suddenly filling up with water... the bricks are just a facade over plates of iron! Muahaahhahah etc etc blah.
I'm hoping to have some negative space in my collection as well, though *some* adjacent rooms will be fine.
adamsouza wrote: Wyloch has some great stuff, but he's pretty married to idea of creating small Dwarven Forge Sized and styled pieces that allow him to recreate D&D 0E and 1E style maps.
I personally dislike that style map because the wall thickness is almost nonexistant. I can recall 1st and 2nd edition adventures where players hammered through the walls themselves, becuase they were apparantly only 6 or so inches thick, according to the maps.
"The door is trapped, and we have no thief"
"It's okay, the wall has about 20HP per square foot. The fighters can bash a man sized hole through the wall in a few minutes"
Beautiful stuff though.
But all the noise they make attracts every monster in the dungeon, at all once.
Have you seen the dungeon tiles used in the D&D adventure games? They look like this The manner they interlock together may be of interest. I would go for at 6x6 tiles too.
I actually own a crap ton of dungeon floor tiles. I'm mostly just trying to get away from using printed materials.
I get what you are saying about the party hammering thorugh walls as well. it just shouldn't even be an option. I'd rather use a dungeon that is designed with some semblance of logic, and structural integrity, than have to Game Master away what the players think is a viable option. The tiles I'm using pretty make the walls between adjacent rooms 5ft thick, so the idea of hamering through walls shouldn't ever be a thought, let alone an option.
Okay, hammered out 3 spiral staircases, a straight staircase, some book shelves, a table, and a wall section with a revolving secret door. I'll try to get pictures of them up tonight.
It's a bit time consuming, but I would gladly trade in all the time I spent over the years printing and gluing cardstock dungeons, or hand drawing maps, for time spent using this approach.
Kids will be back in school in a month, and I could see easily building a new dungeon feature and having it painted every other day, while the wife and kids aren't around.
Automatically Appended Next Post: Before I go to bed
I've made a few, more detailed, 6inch tooms, and some redesigned pendulum trap blades. I'm going to try and get them painted and posted in this weekend, but I just signed on to do 16 hours of overtime this weekend, and Saturday night I'm running a D&D campaign, so it's cutting it close. Also having a crew come by Monday morning to put solar panels on the house, so I need to clear around the electrical panels and crawl space entrance. Soo, busy weekend, but I'm going to push to get some painting progress, even if it costs me a few hours of sleep each night.
The Solar Situation is kind of a no-brainer at the moment. Massachussetts, the local power company, and Solar Provider are subsiding the cost of the system and instillation, and I agree to buy electricity from the Solar Provider, instead of the electric company. What makes it a great deal is that the Solar provider only charges $.12 per kwh verses the $.25 I'm paying from the electrical company, and the rate is locked in with such a low rate of increase, about $.005 a year, so that it in 20 years I will be only be paying .25 per kwh. Where the electrical company has rate has climbed at a singnificantly higher rate.
Extra power generated by the array is banked for me purchase at the $.12 rate. If there is no power banked, and the sun just refuses to show it's face for weeks/months (Nuclear Winter ?) my power will just be drawn from the local power company, at the power company's rate, until the array is back to generating power.
I have the option of buying the system outright if I want, any time over the course of the next 20 years.
It's about a 400KW array, which should generate slightly more power than we typically use.
TLDR: It costs me nothing to install and it should cut my electric bill in half.
If anyone who is a home owner in Massachussetts and interested wants further information I can refer you to my rep, and claim a sweet referal bonus for doing so, if you join the program as well.
thhat model up to a point now is also here available...i´ve heard that some peeps are even making a small income that way by feeding the the energy back into the system...iirc...
actually i think solar power is the way to go...
That's awesome, I'm really glad such a thing is going on. I dunno that it's an option here in southern Illinois, probably not atm, but it sounds cool. How large is the array in terms of physical size? Does it fit out in your yard, or is it tacked onto the roof?
Struggling to find time to work on miniatures. Actually collapsed and fell asleep on couch after working overtime today. Later tonight I'm going to trade some Ork stuff for Tyranids. It's completely unrelated to anything I've been working on, but I got an offer.
There are the bookshelves I cobbled together, a table, round room sections, new pendulum traps, a wall with a secret door, and an archway.
Also, Grim, I think I figured out how to make fire for the edges of the movement trays for KoW Army of the Abyss models. Just need to apply the technique I used to make that fire to longer and lower.
the round tiles really make me envious... but i need to focus^^... also... mind showing some of those traps "at work" ?... would love to see them get some use...to see how they scale up to the tiles...
Your stuff is so stellar it's really starting to push me on the 2.5D stuff. As long as I had walls for taking dramatic photos maybe... Hmm.. stuff to consider.
Do you find the doors and furniture look odd when you've got those 3d elements in there with your 3d models, or does it just 'work'? The 2.5D stuff certainly looks more playable, faster to build/paint, and easier to store/transport. If all it would take to make me happy is a couple of photo-backdrop-walls, it would probably be better to do the 2.5.
the first trap idea is sadly not possible to use in my dungeon...i can´t make such raised areas anymore..but looks cool...
and the swinging pendulums is ace....need to remember the hot glue trick for sure! thx^^
That step up on the piece is on top of the regular floor to give the pit itself a bit of depth. The floor section there was cut out and removed, and a piece of thn card glued underneath the whole thing, so you can't see the table underneath. It may be too late to cut the square out of your tile, but you could add the step up on both sides of a hall piece to give the pit a bit of actual depth.
While rummaging through my cellar I founf a some prepainted dungeon features from the MageKnight Dungeons Exansion. I also base coated a dozen or so tiles last night. My goal is to have those tiles painted and get a few pictures up Tueday morning of painted dungeon sections with all the dungeon features I've painted so far, including the MageKnight items.
I honestly need to focus more on just painting and finishng the basic rooms and hallways, but the features, like steps,pits, traps, etc.. are just more fun to work on.
Are you going to try any different environments like sunken partially water-filled caves, regular caves, deep underdark caves with glowing moss? I think I'll have to do some of those before it's over but I haven't even started yet myself
Gonna have to come back and really examine how you're doing your traps and stuff in case I want to make my own.
Is the hallway always taller like that, or do you just add the raised part and spikes once the trap has been sprung so everyone knows what's going on?
The raised corner was just an experiment to make the pit look deeper and cooler looking. I could just use the whole tile to replace a corner piece when the trap is sprung, but I like the raised step aesthetic, so I might make a few more corner pieces with the raised step as well.
I have some ideas for carvern pieces, but I want to get a decent dungeon set first, before I go off on a cave tangent.
Probably use some combination of covered alluminum foil or paper mache for the walls.
This week I'm going to try to force myself to paint the peices I've already built. My gaming group is only a few sessions away from finishing the Mines of Phandelver adventures, and I'd like to have a playable set ready for our adventrues after that.
While I took a lot of inspiration from DMscotty and DMGinfo, I am a lot more inclined to use and add elevation to my pieces that they are, so my caves willl ikely have some elevated features, to make combat more interesting.
Ahh, interesting about the elevation. You and I are probably closer aligned in that sense (given I wanted fully 3d terrain to start with ).
I don't really see anything wrong with having a cave room that starts at table level and rises and inch or two towards the middle and back down. Then people at the far ends will have partial cover/no line of sight to/from each other.
I never strictly/religiously follow instructions/directions/tutorials unless I want to get something *exactly* like the thing that's being described. Putting a grill together, sure. Making my own scenery though? Nah, just looking for tips
that skull smoke looks interesting... what does it stand for?
and the urns...made from wooden beads?...i bet you could make quite good looking columns too...
i probably should show my progress in painting the tiles too... it´s slowed down a bit as it is space and time consuming like hell...
also...beds...??? in a dungeon...er....that´s where i always wanted to sleep...
Hey, you would be suprised how many D&D adventures have bed rooms in the dungeons for the people that live in them. The Mines of Phandelver Adventure we're running has 3 bedrooms in the Redbrand ruffian's hideout alone.
The skull in smoke is an old miniature from the 80's. Good for just looking creepy, or as a summons/ritual.
Urns are indded ornate beads glued together. They happen to be plastic. Available in a range of finishes, mostly metallics, but I chose the bone finish because it came 48 pieces to the bag, instead of 36. Still have some smaller ones I'm looking to make into potion bottles.
MAAAANNN...you got robbed?...damn...how do you feel now?...i currently live in a corner of my city were this is not such a strong theme, but in other parts it is quite the ..."custom"...i hope you´re on top of everything...i bet that is a lot of stress...on everything...
but we see you productive, which is a good sign...
er...whats a pink eye?
the cube and the glibbers look hilarious and convincing^^
any ideas where to get cheap and lots of rats?...for my own needs i recently got me a nice amount of tyranide glands...the ones that look like brains... we´ll see what can be made with these^^...
They pretty much only stole jewlery and whatever money they could find, but they did make a muge mess. It was like in the movies when they toss someones room looking for something. My wife feels violated by the experience, but honestly I was just relived that no one was hurt and that nothing particularly valuable was taken. We live in a prety nice community and this was the first time anything like this has happened to us.
Pink Eye is just a catch all phrase for an eye infection. I stupidly submereged my head in the hot tub, and my eyes started bothering me shortly after.
The rats models are Reaper Bones Rats. I know they can be a pain to find overseas, but 6 for $3.50 ($2.62 at Miniatures Market) is much cheaper than any of the prepainted or metal ones I've ever been able to find. I happeend to have 12 from the first BONES Kickstarter.
Multicursal Hexagramic Ward, the symbol of the Men Of Letters, from the Supernatural TV Series
Summoning Circle Gaming Tile
Scratch Built Chariot
I don't even particularly need a chariot for any reason, but I was reading the KoW2 rulebook and felt like making something for KoW.
I recently bought 150 Em4Miniatures Orcs At 50 for £7.70 (about $13) I figured they woulc bulk up my Orc horde nicely.
They are mono-pose and only available in those 3 sculpts, but I have bunch of Mage Knight Orcs that I can add to incease diversity.
I've had this Tiamat model for nearly 25 years. Beautiful sculpt, although it lacks wings. She's the Evil Goddess mother of dragons, I'm pretty sure she doesn't need wings to fly.
Rock and Bones piles. I think they came with some pirate toy. I really don't know anymore, but I figured I they wold look better painted up.
They are just base coated at the moment. but I was just taking picutures of anytihng minaitures related I was working on at this point.
Level 1 of the Under the Tavern D&D Adventure, by DMGInfo
The pirate walls with skulls came out nicely.
Treasure piles, chests, and bookshelves, as treasure tokens for Frostgrave.
Some simple fantasy beds.
Lots of weathered stairs and floor sections.
I've got a ton of dungeon times that still need to be.painted, building some new pieces for frostgrave, and I finally found an inexpensive supply of claws to convert daemonettes.
The theory is Mage Knight NightBlade + Scorpion Claws and Tail = Daemonettes
There are 3 Dollar Trees within 15 minutes of where I live, and I've been visiting 1 a day to see what Halloween stuff they have out.
Behind the Catapult you may have noticed the beginning of a palisade. I don't even particularly want to build one, but on another forum some one asked for ideas for a palisade and I mentioned using Golf Pencils. There was one vocal critic of my suggestion, so I'm building one out of spite.
Sooo, I did some further digging, into both the new KoW rulebook and my Mage Knight collection, and I figure I can make an entire Forces of Nature army, pretty much, out of Elemental League and D&D models I already own.
Naids = Deep Ones
Hunters of the Wild = Dryads, pookas, sprites
Centuars = Centaurs
Salamanders = Lizardmen
Sylph Talonriders = Gryphons and Giant Hawks
Forest Shambers = wood Golems
Hydra = Hydra
Elementals = D&D Elementals + Loka models
Greater Elemental = D&D models
The irony is that Forces of Nature was the army I was least interested in.
Orcs and Undead were my front runners, but I want to run them both as hoard armies, and it will simply take me forever to assemble and paint that many models.
I can make a Forces of Nature army that is heavy with Forest Shamblers and Naiads for a relatively low model count army of prepainted models and actually start playing, while I work on other armies on the side.
^Yeah. I saw someone make something like 1k or 1500 points out of a few things from bones 2 like the sharkman/were as a elemental something, a couple of centaurs, the gnolls/bugbears filling in for elementals (i'd probably use them in a herd list, but the two lists would thematically combo well) and a bunch of the smaller critters like dragonlings and familiars standing in for some form of small nature rabble.
I spent at least an hour removing models from their bases last night. At one point I just gave up on removing, got a pair of heavy duty scissors, and just started cutting the bases away. 20 Hunters of the Wild and 30 Centuars are awaiting new bases.
Going to try mounting them in strips of 1x5 models. It will reduce the amount of bases I need to create by 80% and still allows me good access to the models to paint them. Eventually, I would like to work on more scenic bases, but I will save that until after I have something playable, and the models have been repainted.
Zombie trolls on their new movement tray. After re-attaching 2 of the severed arms, I reposistioned some arms, added some severed heads and performed a hand/weapon swap.
Didn't realize that Mage Knight Sprites would have a larger foot print than typical model. Trying to get them into ranks without the wings getting in the way proved slightly more challenging than I expected. I was able to do so by only using 8 models per troop instead of 10. Can't get 10 of them on a 40mm x 100mm tray without the wings overlapping other models faces.
I'm using Foam Core with a Popsicle Sticks border for the movement trays. They are very sturdy and have a minimal lip around the edge. This will allow me to base pretty much base anything as troops, and just put troops front to back to form regiments and Hordes as needed. This makes the movement trays 5mm thick instead of 2-3mm thick, but they are nice and chunky and easy to grab.
Would have liked to have gotten more done on my models, but I spent 4 hours watching the premieres of Heroes Reborn and Scream Queens.
I convinced one of my gaming buddies try out Frostgrave, so I'm hoping to get in a game before our usual D&D session.
It is very common with KoW multibasing to not include the maximum number of units anyway. I usually aim for 70% where possible, or like 66 whatever. 13-14 out of 20, unless it just flat out looks better to have all 20 crammed in.
I know nothing of scream queens but more Heroes can't go amiss.
Behind the Catapult you may have noticed the beginning of a palisade. I don't even particularly want to build one, but on another forum some one asked for ideas for a palisade and I mentioned using Golf Pencils. There was one vocal critic of my suggestion, so I'm building one out of spite.
Well this is what you get for looking at other forums.
adamsouza wrote: When Dakka adds a dedicated Terrain Forum I will wander no longer
Ha! for this of course we have the ongoing LoER terrain competition... this instalment is running under the theme : "got wood?"...
i bet your current D&D activities would be an ideal play ground
Behind the Catapult you may have noticed the beginning of a palisade. I don't even particularly want to build one, but on another forum some one asked for ideas for a palisade and I mentioned using Golf Pencils. There was one vocal critic of my suggestion, so I'm building one out of spite.
Well this is what you get for looking at other forums.
DakkaDakka for stimulating conversasion
DMsCraft for Fantasy terrain
Lead Adventure Forum for my Frostgrave or Savage Worlds fix
Mantic Forums for Kings Of War discussion
I used to love terragenesis, but they are practically a ghost town now.
Also, between my ISP treating all of TG's emails as SPAM and TG deleting your accounts if they are not active, it's become too much of a hassle to bother actually posting there for me. Every time I try to post something, I need to create a new account using a gmail account I hardly use, wait for an admin to activate it, and then forget what I was going to post in the first place, only to remember after missing the window to activate the account.
DMsCraft is mostly limited to fantasy stuff, but they are very active. There is a larger than normal percentage of them with their own Youtube channels focused on crafting.
Built 20+ movement trays, from popsicle sticks and foam core, for KoW yesterday. Each required 12+ cuts of the popsicle sticks with heavy duty shears. My right hand has been bothering me ever since, and it hurts to grip anything tightly.
With any luck, and probably some pain killers, I could have a regiment of Centaur Calvary, a regiment of Centaur Archers, and another 3 regiments of Forest Shamblers based by tomorrow.
Also rediscovered some siege weapons, men at arms, trees, and a giant, I had packed away and forgotten, l'm now in the process of repurposing for KoW.
Heck, after sorting through boxes of stuff, that I had mostly forgotten about, I've found armies worth of Elves, Orcs, Goblins, Men, and Ogres. Even found a few regiments worth of Dwarfs.
I just need to keep my hobby ADD in check long enough to base an armies worth of each, and I'll be golden.
One of my work bench lamps died. The bulb still works, but the on/off switch broke. Trying to figure out a new layout to my work area that will allow me to install a big light box, so I can take better pictures. Everything I've taken pictures of recently just looks crap in the photos.
I'm contemplating completely re-arranging a the room so I can get a permanent area to build and take photos/videos on. If I can make it work, I'm considering making miniatures related how to, and strategy, videos.
I'd love to find a way to adequately lightbox a 2x2-3x3-4x4-4x8 table so I can take fancy battle reports and edit stories into them. Kind of webcomic/graphic novel type crap. Unlikely given limited time constraints but since I don't get to play I try to find other ways to use my minis for the greater good
The Modge Podge molds are geared towards the scrapbooking crowd, but I figured I could use the gears and locks from this mold for terrain.
i have eyed these molds for quite some time... and i knew you maade quite some good results with hot glue... i should have been able to put two and two together....
Let me offer you a bit of advice if you pick them up. It's pretty easy to leave air pockets when working with clear hot glue. It was much easier to see what I was doing with colored glue sticks. I would fill the mold the best I could, lick my finger and then press the glue into the mold. Having switched to a smaller, but still high temp glue gun, this is not nearly as painful as it sounds.
interesting insight....hmmmmm....to be honest...i currently own the worlds cheapest glue gun...i bet i should invest in a better piece first...^^ but the coloured glue stick is a very good hint...thanks mate!
Okay, so I've been putting thought into how and where exactly I would film video footage for How To Videos and the recurring problem has been lighting.
The standard wisdom is light box with translucent white sides four light sources. I've had this setup before, and aside from the box I had being too small, the lights were cumbersome and required a power strip. They also through off some significant heat, which made me question the wisdom of their continued use.
While browsing articles on the internet, I came across someone else who used 3 LED strip lights, a desk lamp, and a large container from Ikea. It wasn't the best solution, but it got me thinking about using LEDs. LED technology has come a long way in affordability in the last few years. $20 later on Amazon I purchased 16Ft of White LED lighting, a 12volt power supply, and a dimmer switch. My plan involves making a big box out of white Foam Core and lining it with 16ft worth of LEDs along the top and sides. Then I can cut a hole in the top to put the video camera. It can serve double duty as a light box, for taking pictures of miniatures and terrain, and the lighted stage for my videos.
If you manage to perfect that let me know. It sounds spiffy. I'm not as sure about the videos myself but I'd like a good solid light box and that sounds pretty damn doable.
The Minority Report series is better than the movie, in my opinion.
It's probably been at least a decade since I watched The Rocky Horror Picture Show last, but I had recorded the BBC's 40th Anniversary Live Performance.
Cardstock book shelves are detailed and easy. Wooden bookshelves are sturdier and have a better feel, but they are a pain to fill with tiny details. These are a hybrid. Wooden frames with cardstock details printed on, mounted to foam core for durability
Oh fantastic The stacks actually being made of wood or whatever makes them look solid and 'real' while you've achieved a much stronger (and readily reproducible) look with the paper print out books. Kind of like making/casting a display/monitor/view screen and printing something to put on it, rather than flailing about with freehand... or in your particular case making tiny little books.
Pretty much. I made them for a custom Frostgrave scenario I'm working on. During the light of the Blue Moon the writing on the obelisks can be deciphered and each holds part of a spell. Any wizard who can brave the dangers of Frostgrave at night during the Blue Moon can learn a new spell by deciphering them all.
Ah, the many uses of pringles cans I think those objective markers are simply called runestones. They remind me of runestones anyway. Yours look good. What materials did you use?
Got in an all Hallows Eve game of Frostgrave last night, 4 players and we tried out the Mausoleum scenario, which starts with 4 skeletons guarding treasures and summons an additional one each turn .
If was one of the players first game of Frostgrave, so we all kind of agreed to an uneasy truce that we would concentrate on the treasures and not just murder each other.
Everyone managed to avoid each other early on, and concentrate on battling skeletons, until there was only one treasure left. Though expeditious use of the Leap spell, I had hopped thugs and archers onto four separate treasures. Then threw up a wall spell to create a barrier between the opposing forces and my own. While I was madly leaping around, between battling skeletons, the other three wizards all made for the final treasure. We had placed a dozen treasures, and I had already grabbed four of them, so I didn't want to contest the last, but they did. Trash talking lead to threats of force, and the most experienced wizard soon found himself on the receiving end of an assault on two fronts. The new player had managed to get four archers into a spot overlooking the final treasure, and his archers aim was true that night. They felled three of the enemy before he they gave up and retreated, but not without the fleeing wizard unleashing bone darts on anything he could see.
My forces were down to the Wizard, his apprentice, and a trained giant spider (war hound), that had gotten lost in the terrain, and I had completely forgotten about. My Spider fell victim to a bone dart, before the cowardly wizard fled. Angered that the truce had been broken, my Wizard noticed that the dastardly villain had fled nearer to the table edge but at the perfect angle for my wizard to see his apprentice though a collapsed wall. Gathering his fury at the betrayal of the truce and being attacked unprovoked , my wizard unleashed an Elemental Bolt of immense magnitude that removed the apprentice from the fray.
2 Standard Treasures @ 50Xp
2 Scenario Treasures @ 70Xp
1 Wizard removing Apprentice from play @ 80XP
16 Successfully cast spells @ 10Xp
1 Absorb Knowledge @ 50Xp
I talked to one of the guys from First Round Fireball and they agreed to make me a custom piece of terrain as my prize, instead of that fountain. We dicussed a Well Of Sorrow and Dreams for the Frostgrave scenario of the same name. It will be a large well with a collapsed statue over the back half of it, with a resin water effect. Really looking forward to it, and of course I'll post picks once I get it.
In the mean time, I'm waiting on my Forstgrave soldiers to arrive, so in the mean time I've hasily constructed a warband from Mage Knight miniatures.
This is what I had to start with on my bench last night.
On the left are two custom ice bases I carved and cast, and on the right are four new treasure tokens I whipped up for Frostgrave. Somehow in our All Hallows Eve encounter two of my treasure tokens were lost.
The new tokens are a short stack of Grimoires, a wand, in scale potions, and out of scale potions.
A closer look at the Warband
Wizard, with magical staff, Apprentice, two thugs, and four archers
Snow Trolls
These are repurposed Yeti and Bigfoot figures, out og a tube of Cryptids, I picked up at Michael's Crafts. With a new paint job, and snazzy new bases, I think they came out very well.
Nice stuff, grats on contest. Are mageknight models sti readily available? Bendy prepaints sound like just the ticket to throw to the wolf (3 year old daughter) to spare my precious painted figs.
You can still get them on Ebay. It is getting harder, and harder, to track down specific models, it's still pretty easy to buy big lots of random models.
Some Dollar Store Halloween decorations, now serving a higher purpose as Frostgrave Ice Spiders
I like the construct. It says to me...warjack but doesn't look stupid... somehow. Good stuff. The snowy demon thing is also interesting. Looks kinda like something you'd see on the cover of a really old D&D manual, but blue.
Did you zoom in on the arcane building ? You can actually make out the norse runes. It's the kind of detail you would expect on a resin piece, and not on some foam core creation.
Tonight, I hope to put the finishing touches on a tower I'm building for Frostgrave. It's 10" tall, has 3 levels that miniatures can fight on, and will have elements that are lit with LEDs.
Although I would be fairly easy to bribe, we game in my home, late into the night, so our gaming club membership is fairly exclusive to the people my wife is comfortable with walking arounf my house unsupervised at 1am.
Adding the lights was delayed by me taking a night to play Frostgrave and following it up the next day with a marathon of the new Jessica Jones series.
I'll get some pics up Monday night.
Here's a quick Work In Progress shot of the tower. Assembled for a test fit, with a base coat of PVA and paint mix.
Also, just for fun, I had an idea while watching Jessica Jones and ran with it. My Wizard in Frostgrave has a spell that allows him to summon a wall. The summoned wall is 6"x3" on the tabletop. so I wanted to build a few, to have on hand for when he cast the spell. I've seen other people make plain walls, but I thought that boring, so I decided to have a littel fun with it.
I went crazy online shopping this morning. First, I caught Miniatures Market Black Friday sale a few hours after it started, but still scored some amazing deals. Bought Zombie 15, a Confrontation Starter Box, some Bones and Alchemy models all for more than 50% off. Then I spent an hour bidding on terrain making supplies on Ebay. Bid low on a ton of auction and still won on 100+ of them. I will have packages from China arriving at my house from now until half way through January.
Me too, usually because I know what I want and I like to spend as little on hobby stuff as possible. Usually before Turkey Day I haven't been able to wheedle gift ideas out of people yet.
Camkierhi - Thanks. I love the Runic look as well. I'm certainly going to have to use it more often.
This is the SIlent, but lit, tower fully assembled.
It was a complete Ork build. I didn't play anything going in, other than the bit on top being lit. It will get the job done, but I do wish I had been wide awake enough at 2am when I was building it to have thought to apply the runic texture to it.
An Archway, because they are cooler looking and more funtional than walls, on the tabeltop.
A Treasure Token marker of a Magical Ring.
Instead of painting dungeon tiles, I tried my hand at illustrating them. I'm pretty happy with the result.
Ran the Libary Scenario for Frostgrave last night. Essentially, opposing warbands start on opposite sides of a dungeon, gather loot, and have to escape from an exit other than the one they entered from.
Yeah, I always hated making stairs that looked right, but you can't get miniatures to stay on them. This approach has been a good compromise between functional and aesthetic design needs.
At some point I'm going to watch House of Cards, so there may be a lot more incoming
Oh my that brought me back, I had a group of players scared of any bookshelf they came across in a dungeon after encountering a library protected by a pair of these back in D&D 3.0. Love the look of the mini.
Viktor von Domm wrote:^that reminds me of the library scene of the first ghostbuster movie...
Dr. Peter Venkman: You're right, no *human being* would stack books like this.
lol...cool idea...i wonder how far one could use this idea for golems... soucepan golem...banana golem...
Thanks !
D&D, especially 3rd edition had a habit of making golems out of pretty much everything. I didn't remember that Ghostbuster's quote, but points to you for remembering it and it being completely appropriate. I'll have to remember that line the next time I encounter one of these.
GrimDork wrote:Nice construct.
Thanks! It's been months since I've done anything with miniatures. Found a new way to make books this week, and wanted to do something with them more interesting then gluing them to a shelf.
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Raskana wrote:Oh my that brought me back, I had a group of players scared of any bookshelf they came across in a dungeon after encountering a library protected by a pair of these back in D&D 3.0. Love the look of the mini.
Thanks !
I can't say that I remember these from 3E, but I'm sure going to look them up now.
Watched another few episodes of House of Cards, and these happened.
Also crafted a few flying books, that I will probably use in conjunction with the greater Library Guardians.
Playing D&D 5E, so I want to see the look of horror on the Player's faces when I use a horde of easily defeated flying books to grant Flanking bonuses to the Big Guys against them, while using them to bubblewrap the Big Guys, preventing them from getting flanked.
My gaming group works on some supernatural "Buffy the Vampire Slayer" law of fighting bad guys, where the bigger and scarier a Big Bad is the faster is will be defeated, but the odds will turn on the group and they will suffer nearly devastating defeat by sturdily easy to overcome opponents.
Example 1) Player with mid level Evil priest walks into a temple of a Good Deity and attempts to convert the people inside to his clearly superior deity. A level 20 priest shows up and asks him to leave, or else. The player Finger of Deaths the priest, who proceeds to roll a "1" on his save and dies horribly on the alter of his own church.
Example 2) Player looks in hole that snakes keep coming out of. Snake bites him on the nose and won't let go. Players then attempt to cleave the snake with a sword, bash it with a mace, and burn it with a torch. All FAIL and FUMBLE hitting the Player character instead, nearly killing him, and doing more than 10 times the damage the snake did.
Example 3.) Bridge over overflowing river, requiring 2 separate DC 10 Dex checks to cross, nearly claims life of 2 PC's. One fighter failed and fell of the same bridge on 3 occasions during the same adventure.
adamsouza wrote: My gaming group works on some supernatural "Buffy the Vampire Slayer" law of fighting bad guys, where the bigger and scarier a Big Bad is the faster is will be defeated, but the odds will turn on the group and they will suffer nearly devastating defeat by sturdily easy to overcome opponents.
Example 1) Player with mid level Evil priest walks into a temple of a Good Deity and attempts to convert the people inside to his clearly superior deity. A level 20 priest shows up and asks him to leave, or else. The player Finger of Deaths the priest, who proceeds to roll a "1" on his save and dies horribly on the alter of his own church.
Example 2) Player looks in hole that snakes keep coming out of. Snake bites him on the nose and won't let go. Players then attempt to cleave the snake with a sword, bash it with a mace, and burn it with a torch. All FAIL and FUMBLE hitting the Player character instead, nearly killing him, and doing more than 10 times the damage the snake did.
Example 3.) Bridge over overflowing river, requiring 2 separate DC 10 Dex checks to cross, nearly claims life of 2 PC's. One fighter failed and fell of the same bridge on 3 occasions during the same adventure.
Only ever did I stumbled on similar crucial gameplay when strong liquor and rpg was involved... But I bet you all had a great time there
Some of my gaming group has been gaming together for over 20 years. Wow, just saying that makes me feel old. It must be a testament that we are doing something right.
Glad you all seem to really like the flying books. I've added some to the flock.
Flock doesn't seem right. A group of Flying Books should be called a library
Don't read it. But you would need to use a microscope, no? Very cool stuff.
This sort of reminds me of the demon face from Tomb of Horrors. Y'know the one with the sphere of annihilation for a mouth. You could try sculpting that demon face?
That face is kind of what inspired me to do this one, although I didn't use it as a reference. I've always liked dungeon doors and walls with faces on them.
I did make this fast and loose, but these should help you get the general dimensions right.
I built the model in 1/4" (6.25mm)increments. None of the measurements are overly critical. As long as the right side is the same size as the left, and the back as wide as the front, you'll be good.
Long story short... I had camera issues. I'll post new pics soon.
Anyhow, can't figure out anything with Orks that makes the work involved/ stuff I want to work on / game effectiveness love triangle work in any way I'm happy with. I'm going to finish the truk I'm currently working on, and a sister one I've started as well, before moving on to Tyranids.
I actually loved Tyranids back in second edition, and I've flirted with playing them every edition since. I'd pick up a few models, build them, and then move on before fielding them.
In any case, finally decided to sit down and figure out what I had available.
Orks are a labour of love. You don't collect them to win or be clever. Sometimes it is just nice to smash stuff, even if it is your own half the time. The truck looks brilliant. Can't wait to see it done.
Your tyranids on the other hand look like a serious force to be reckoned with. Not that I know anything about playing these days.
Then I went to work on the orifice and gun ports on the top
Then I started working on the armor plated sections. In the picture there are 4 layers of overlapping plates. There is an additional 5th layer, but I had scrapped the initial version of it.
I mounted it on a 2" piece of clear pipe and used hot glue to make tendril like textures on it. The base itself is foam core covered in a layer of hot glue.
I added some plastic tubing for a base for the gun barrels. Still need to texture them.
I added 5 3" tenticles underneath made of thick floral wire and textured them with hot glue
Still want to add 5 more tenticles to the main body, and little talons to the ends of the tentacles.
I've added 5 tentacles coming off the body. Thick floral wire, coated in hotglue. An unexpected benefit of that method is that the tentacles are posable. Didn't expect that.
You can also see how I did the smaller armor plates. Cut, folded, and then creased to give it more of a 3D presence.
Here, the ventral tentacles have been reposistioned off the ground, and hot glued on talons were added to each of the tentacles. Also, half round beads were glued here and there on the upper body, representing smaller gas bladders, for extra texture.
Viktor von Domm wrote:what did you use for the ...well...balls?...and that red stuff... is that glue?
The gas sacks are glass beads, commonly used as counters for card games. They are flat on the bottom, and round on top. Not being symmetrical, they have an organic look to them.
The red stuff is colored hot glue. The dollar stores around here have packs of colored hot glue, with sparkles in it, 15 sticks for a $1. I'll likely paint over it eventually, but the colored nature of the glue makes it easier to work with when your layering it.
Cleatus wrote:Nice Trukks. Simple and effective design.
That Tyranid drop pod (?) is terrifying. But very cool.
Thanks. I can never bring myself to go full Mad Max with my Ork vehicles.
I'm pretty happy with how well the Tyrannocyte is coming along. Honestly, it's my first attempt trying to make anything custom for Tyranids.
Probably going to make a pair of Sporocysts next. I found a foam football just the right size.
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