Thanks Shas'. Like many hobbies, there is a tendency for a technique of the month.
You will have noticed in the previous photos that I left the eyebrows pretty sharp and distinct, and that they are not so much on the original.
This I left to dry / harden before adding more clay and sculpting the eyes up to the hard edge. This gives a defined guide to sculpt up to without problems of pressing in and distorting the position of the eyebrows.
I then used the same tactic for the mouth area.
I also added a start to the hair, with a comb no less, but it's only rough at the moment. Varying consistencies of the clay resulted in the inconsistencies in the lines. .
These details are now to be left to dry, I'll add ears in Milliput and clean up and sharpen details later.
I was planning on normal, boring, metallic paint, and a little weathering to make it look old (as in the film).
While it would be an ideal candidate for gold leaf, I don't think that'd be fair on the recipient of the Falcon, that just got black paint.
Camkierhi wrote:...I find fine detail in clay very difficult. Should do better with Milliput.
I've found that if you leave it to cool to room temp' (assuming you are massaging it in your warm hands to soften it for sticking on things) it firms up a little. Also, if you let it dry a little bit that also firms it up more.
Firmer clay makes finer details easier.
All that said, I still did what I always do with sculpting; go back in later and carve away to do the sharper details.
And Milliput is firmer and cures faster, so "easier" for these things.
Heretic Tom wrote:...your approach to the eyes and mouth is genius and speaks to your experience (and probably past frustrations)...
Yeah, even when working with epoxy putties, it's good for large shapes to have a firm base to work on for the finer details.
e.g. don't try to sculpt an entire head in one piece of putty. Make a 50% sized ball first, let that cure, and then cover that with putty to do the details in that. You won't distort the head shape as much as if you had one whole piece of soft putty.
So much small but important work, with minimal obvious changes to the appearance.
Smoothing surfaces, sharpening details, correcting shapes, filling gaps, sculpting additional things.
I think the sculpting is done, so on to painting soon.
In other news:
I've finished my Fallout 4 settlement build at County Crossing.
Tour video recorded, edited and uploaded to YouTube. Give it a look.
It's a shame I didn't get the head at quite the right angle (should be slightly more front-facing), but that was set from how I built the interior structure and didn't realise until I'd got past the nose and it was too late to do anything by then as most of it had dried.
I could see some royal society of Archeologists modify that thing by hollowing out the mouth and turning it into one of those parking validation machines . “We lost Sir William and three Sherpa during the climb to get to the temple of Xhositquatsit, and young Stephen lost his left leg in that awful spike trap, but now we no longer have to wait for Suzanne to validate our parking. Anyway God save the Queen.” And then everyone in the room (especially those not paying attention) say “God save the Queen” and takes a drink.
Now that it's been handed over I can show you lot the finished piece.
Didn't get the time to do the weathering I intended, but it has a nice aged gold look anyway.
Eye progress first (I remembered to take photos of each stage this time).
Blend black into edges to give 3D effect.
Measure out and position dots for the centre of the eyes. *check that it appears to be looking forwards
Paint in brown for the iris
Shade, colour and detail the iris, resize the pupil to match.
With that all done varnish the whole thing.
And I can relax for a while with no presents to get done for months.
Normal service will resume soon (I have actually started the flesh on the tripod).
I love the more human-like tones to the flesh. I always thought it was so much more disgusting to have the flesh look almost recognizable, compared to the more traditional fantasy green flesh that GW puts on their Nurgle models.
Thanks Gwyn'. Yeah, I prefer a more realistic look to things. There is green as well as blue, red and yellow in with the flesh tones.
I spent a long time researching dead skin tones from photos on Google for the pox walkers, so I'm going to put that "experience" to use as often as possible.
Thanks shas'. I do too.
Been blocking in the base colours for the other parts of the drone:
Steel (with a touch of orange) for metallic parts. Will get rustier.
Brass bits. Will get verdigris-ier.
And purple for the armour plates. Will get faded and weathered to the point of not much of this left showing... is the plan.
In other news;
I put up a couple of mobile device wallpapers on my ko-fi page. Nothing exciting, just my painting board surface.
While many of you may be able to take your own photos of your own boards, I though someone here may appreciate them.
Example screenshots (quite large pictures):
Thanks Graven'. Good way of thinking about the purple.
Thanks Theo'. Different is good in my books.
My desk gets no paint on it , I have a wooden board that has been in use as a modelling and painting surface for...a long time... it was in use before I started modelling ~3 decades ago. It's had so much build-up of glue and paint I now have no qualms about using it as a pallet for small quantities of paint while blending etc.
Progress... It's not had as much attention as it could have the past week or so, but enough has changed now that it's work showing.
Still a lot more weathering to do: Streaks, Verdigris, orange rust, silver highlights (rubbed off metal edges), etc.
Thanks Graven'. True icky-ness will be achieved when I get around to the goo stage...
Thanks Theo'. That's the fun of wip/pip shots; leaves you all wanting more, and something for me to show in the final photos.
Adding some colour with the cables,
Painted the bony / claw-y / teeth-y bits (although forgot the ones on the gun ),
And painted the base, gave it a white line to add some interest to the mass of grey, but blood and goo will also aid this.
Thanks tinfoil, good to hear. And that is my aim; bring the vision I have had in my head from the start to reality.
Thanks Graven'. I see what you did there.
It is done. I can't see anything I want to change in the photos, so job's a good'un.
May I present to you the Foetid bloat-drone tripod in all it's glory.
Which config' would you rather face?
All the angles:
Close-ups of the bio-mechanical workings and the base:
And the magnetised weapon options:
And' that's it for the Dark Imperium box set.
This chap will be up in my Etsy shop soon...ish. Need to look at how long this took and decide on a price, and arrange the photos, and write the description...
What will I do next?
I don't know. I've left the building desk empty so that I don't get tempted to just flow into another project and avoid finding a proper job.
So I'm going to give that a push first (got a plan to write to the RSC for careers advice) and then I'll pull out some of the junk I have laying about and start using that up when I get stressed out with the job searching... so probably tomorrow...
Thanks for sticking around and watching my random projects.
In other news;
The plague marines have been "lost in the post" in New Zealand.
Apparently, it's standard practice for NZpost, when delivering to a business address, for their postie to deliver to a PObox and then a courier to take it from the PObox and deliver it to the business address.
Part of this process involves the courier signing for a package that is intended to be signed for upon delivery... let that sink in...
...the package was signed for, and the people at the address have not seen the package.
Luckily, my customer has laid the blame firmly on the postal service. I still get to keep the money (as I couldn't afford to loose that amount from my business), but I doubt I'll get any future custom from them (which was a possibility).
Say a prayer to Nurgle for the lost plague marines, "lost" but not forgotten.
Indeed. That's why everything I post is tracked and requires a signature (international tracked and signed comes with £250 of lost/damage insurance).
However, I have literally just got a message from the buyer to say that the package has just arrived!
Severely battered box (probably been in the back of a van for ~2 weeks), but all seem to be intact.
Thank you for your prayers in facilitating their arrival. Grandfather Nurgle is sure to bless you all.
Always a massive worry when you send something away. If you mark it fragile it will probably be a football for some brainless idiot. I have had issues with just about every courier I have ever used. For some reason they insist on trying to damage every box they have. The extreme lengths I go to to package up stuff to try and make sure it arrives in some semblance of order is quite ridiculous.
But it got there eventually so guess it worked out in the end. Good luck with your current sales.
Yeah, I always get anxious while a package is in transit: Part of the reason I used tracked and signed, so I know where it is and when it gets there.
I always aim for over-doing the packaging.
Mini's get individually wrapped in bubbles, the box is lined with packing paper / tissue / bubblewrap, and the wrapped mini's are nested within.
Good, stiff cardboard box material is used for the box and I make sure the finished box has very little flex to it in any direction.
The result is often twice the necessary size to fit the contents in, but that gives plenty of "crumple zone".
I give the final package a good shake to make sure nothing is moving inside and then tape it up (with red and white FRAGILE tape).
I feel it's best to over-do it. The box can look like it's been used like a football, but the interior hasn't been touched.
Still, a glowing 5/5 star review for that one, and this week someone bought the Forklift.
Progress on display:
Trees and foliage.
Repaired the shack and inserted it (ground was not flat enough).
Added telephone poles. I did try to add wires but they didn't look right so will be left without.
And closed in the outer base edges.
More to do, including some static grass and painting (current colourfulness may confuse you, painting hasn't really happened yet).
That is true, Brian. But this is me, I will at least try and add ridiculous realism to all my models regardless of scale. I tried with a really thin wire I have, but just trying to get 2 lines to play nicely was a pain and these technically required 12 lines... I wasn't about to loose years off my life to get them all together even on a single piece like this. Thanks.
Lo York'. Thanks.
Thanks 'Tom. Glad you liked the interview too.
Lo Graven'. hmm... I'm not terribly up on what's available. I'm just working with what I have available here; all the train stuff I've been using used to be my Grandfather's, it's all decades old. Other than keeping an eye out with things in the right scale. According to this site (http://theminiaturespage.com/ref/scales.html) you'll be looking for S-gauge for the typical 28mm. Tools and toys (smoke-machines and lights, etc.) are pretty universal, but what's available? I don't know.
Maybe Brian and Gits' have some input.
I don't like to post without something to show, so here's something... really, I don't know where this is going... What to do with leftover scraps and a cloth #102
You will remember me making a couple of prop replicas in clay recently. While doing these I used polystyrene foam to bulk out the shape to save on weight and clay. This left me with a pile of foam off-cuts. I also was using an old tea-towel to wipe things down. This became soaked in clay. I noticed that when the clay dried the cloth became set in a shape. This gave me an idea.
I piled up the loose foam lumps (all shapes and sizes, no larger than an inch cube) into the centre of the damp cloth and then folded in the sides of the cloth to the centre. I then turned this over and formed it into a shape and let it dry. I then further coated this with leftover clay sludge and a layer of PVA to seal it all in. This is the top two pictures below.
I have then mounted this to a sheet of card, cut that to shape, and then filled in the edges with a bit more clay. The edges will get a bit more tidying later. This is where we are in the bottom two pictures. With the usual basing treatment this will serve as a good base for something.
I'm not sure what I'm going to build on this, some kind of structure, likely ruined, and plenty of platforms / ramps / steps for tabletop gaming use. It's taking up a lot of desk space, so this is the next project.
The train display is nearly done, so no need for wip photos.
I found some of this stretch rigging line from a competitor that was a) cheaper and b) longer, so got that.
Just turned up this morning and I'm thinking I maybe should have got the thicker version.. this is really fine.
you see that trailing end there?
Space Marine for scale.
Now to try and glue it on.
It's stretchy, it's clingy, and I can barely see it without a white background... just my sort of thing.
The mound continues with some stone steps.
I toyed about with thinking of some neat concrete steps, but decided upon rough stone steps instead.
This will lead up to a wooden platform on stilts and I'll build a hut of some kind on top. May try and keep the setting fairly neutral.
Also, another finished project; some crystal / precious stone earrings.
Check out the beautiful assistant showing them off too... (that's an old model, so don't actually judge it)
The blue is inspired by lapis lazuli and has some golden flecks in it.
I only ran 8 of the possible 12 lines as they have a tendency to wrap around their neighbours and another layer would make it really difficult to untangle them.
The line does the job, but I'd probably recommend the thicker line as it's easier to see on the finished model, and while you're using it.
But I do have plans to use it for floating items in the future...
In other news:
I've been trying to set up Pi-hole for the house as a random side project after seeing a video about it.
It works as a DNS for your network and can block domains from receiving your data and from showing you unwanted things.
It doesn't outright block all ads, but it blocks the tracking and malicious ones, and you can add/remove domains as you like.
But, as with all technology, we've been having problems with getting one device to work with it. Time will tell if I find a solution.
This has kept me busy this week though.
I will have some progress on the mound piece soon though.
Finished off the stone steps and filled in around them with just some tissue/PVA (to save on some weight on that side of the model compared to using clay or plaster), and then created the platforms (all in card stock), gave them some structure underneath and textured the top.
Add some stilts etc. and then build something on top... I am leaning towards a Japanese-style, wooden structure, paper windows, fancy roof... I just get that feeling from it.
Looks great to me. Now do one in a winter theme with kids sledding down the hill and a train running them over . Or at least the sled tracks to a bloody smear on the tracks and parts in the trees......man I’m being really gruesome right now for some reason .
Ah he's a re-painted early member of my personal army.
He don't hold a candle to the more recent Hellblasters
Thanks Azalle. Welcome back. I've been fairly quiet recently, but should be more busy in the coming months.
Thanks CK. I am too. We may have to wait a bit to find out though, see below.
First, progress on the mound.
I've textured the ground.
The less rough areas will be rock and the rest will be muddy / grass-covered.
I've also attached the smaller platform, but the larger platform is left loose for now as I may need access to the underside when building the building on top.
Long time followers may be aware that I create presents for the family for their birthdays and Christmas. Usually, I start Christmas preparations in December. but this year I decided to start early to avoid the rush I end up in the week before Christmas. This means the current project is being put aside for now and will return once the presents are done.
Prepare yourselves for a handful of random projects again.
One is in physical planning stage, one is in reference collecting stage...
After much wood chopping and sanding I have the start of present 1 of 4.
Based on a thing I found on the internet and can be described as a bookcase diorama.
But mine will have a Lord of the Rings vibe as I have 2 miniatures to make use of; Elrond and Thranduil.
Here's the plan:
The right hand side is going to be an elven structure, a bit like:
Thranduil will be stood on an upper floor of the structure (see arrow).
The rest of those circles on the base will be trees, twisty, Mirkwood trees.
I plan on a rope-bridge from the upper floor into the wood on the left, Will have to see if this fits in.
And there is a path snaking off into the back left.
The top half-ish will be branches and foliage.
And finally, I plan some lights in the top left, hidden by the foliage, as if light filtering through the trees from wherever the path is going.
Thanks Graven'. I've had this on my to-do list a long time, but it popped up on twitter just as I was planning what to do for Christmas and here we are.
Thanks CK. Lots of unique challenges are involved with this kind of build.
Filling in the shape of the Elven construction. Much putty work to do to fill all those gaps.
That central pillar is 2 hexagonal cross-section pens,
The near one will have a tree out of the top of that spindle, and will be painted as if sculpted from stone to match the structure.
The far pillar will be a "real" tree.
And this is what I did with the conductive paint:
I used magnets for the battery contacts, but it's not quite strong enough to hold it in place so I'll have to fashion a clip of some kind to hold it firm.
The top and front will be enclosed and hidden by foliage.
Sneak peek of a tree in progress, more on that later but I wanted to play with this paint.
Dr H wrote:...I used magnets for the battery contacts, but it's not quite strong enough to hold it in place so I'll have to fashion a clip of some kind to hold it firm...
I have found a battery that does stick, so no clip required.
Tip for the day, find a battery that is more magnetic for this purpose.
Thanks Red'. If you want to use Blancmange, you can. Or at least the mould for one...
inmygravenimage wrote:That's exciting, the conductive paint, interesting to see what comes next!
Yeah, the paint holds many useful possibilities for running electrics without visible wires. Something I've wished existed for quite a while, and it turns out it does (I could have searched earlier for such a thing, but had no immediate call to do so).
Thanks Theo'. It's not too much more difficult than any normal terrain build. The world, and your bookcase, needs more of these.
I said there was a sneak peek at the tree-in-progress above. Here's where this half of the diorama has gone.
I've started planning out the other half now, and how it fits together with this half.
Thanks York'. I like to keep myself entertained with a variety of things.
Thanks CK. Go ahead, I stole the idea off the internet; just look for "bookcase diorama" and you'll get the same inspiration that I started with.
Of note to you all, especially those considering their own, you have to build these things in two halves, and paint them, before joining it all together. That means you have to have a join somewhere. Plan ahead to how you will hide it.
I've now built up the other side and the ground (leaving space for the first half to slot into) Blank wall space will be taken up with dark paint or foliage, hopefully showing this one path through an overgrown forest to the light at the back, as I envision.