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ohah...cap and red skull side by side... that would be the very thing^^ i have seen at least some pulp minis that are cap... but a nice cap done using scout bitz or possibly even catachan bitz seems highly possible...and a cool commissar conversion to look like red skull...hmmm... maybe i do that when i will one day building my counterforce to the britsih guys i am currently doing... those then will be some choasy germans... they could be led by a red skull all right^^

Viktor von Domm wrote:ohah...cap and red skull side by side... that would be the very thing^^ i have seen at least some pulp minis that are cap... but a nice cap done using scout bitz or possibly even catachan bitz seems highly possible...and a cool commissar conversion to look like red skull...hmmm... maybe i do that when i will one day building my counterforce to the britsih guys i am currently doing... those then will be some choasy germans... they could be led by a red skull all right^^

Yeah, that would be an interesting conversion, scout bitz definitely, a different chest, but the legs would work..hmm.. so many conversion possibilities..

P3's white primer versus GW white primer?

leohart wrote:P3's white primer versus GW white primer?

I prefer P3's primers both white and black to GW's Primers. In my experience they flow better, they spray on smoother than GW. Its what I like to use, but I'm having difficulty finding them in North Houston and I'm getting close to empty on my P3 primer.

P3 primer? There are quite a few over in Asgard last time I went there. Hey do you mind if I try your P3's white primer? Their price looks rather nice. As long as the performance is as good as GW.

leohart wrote:P3 primer? There are quite a few over in Asgard last time I went there. Hey do you mind if I try your P3's white primer? Their price looks rather nice. As long as the performance is as good as GW.

Sure, I'll toss it in my tool kit for when we next run into each other. I'm spending a lot of time on the North side, up in The Woodlands,Tx so I don't know when I will be close to Asgard.

I'll check around on the Northside and see if anyone has any P3 primer.

Hmelrose wrote:

leohart wrote:P3's white primer versus GW white primer?

I prefer P3's primers both white and black to GW's Primers. In my experience they flow better, they spray on smoother than GW. Its what I like to use, but I'm having difficulty finding them in North Houston and I'm getting close to empty on my P3 primer.

Neither do I use GW spray primer. 'cos a Thai grognard advised against it with the same reason. instead he told me that Leyland F14 'matt black' is better (and it's what I'm using now)
also it's easier to buy ones here.

Lone Cat wrote: Neither do I use GW spray primer. 'cos a Thai grognard advised against it with the same reason. instead he told me that Leyland F14 'matt black' is better (and it's what I'm using now) also it's easier to buy ones here.

There is a similar company here in the states that some people use called, Krylon, they utilize the flat matte black color, but I'm not sure of any other colors used, but a lot of spray paint/colors used on cars/trucks are similar and a lot cheaper than hobby company paints/primers.

The same can be said for the hobby tools. GW brand tools have a huge markup over the same tool purchased at a local hardware or other discount tool store.

There is a paint tool someone created on here to show which paints from which companies match. I will try to locate that and repost it here.

I have had a lot of luck with the Walmart brand spray primer, and it's only 98 cents a can. I have used the flat black, white and grey. Works great, and cheap

also to Hmelrose
Love what your doing with the Mordians, great work keep it up.

Mr. S Baldrick wrote:I have had a lot of luck with the Walmart brand spray primer, and it's only 98 cents a can. I have used the flat black, white and grey. Works great, and cheap

also to Hmelrose
Love what your doing with the Mordians, great work keep it up.

Thank you sir! Much appreciated.

Do you have a name brand for that walmart primer? Or is it just walmart? I could stop by on the way home tonight and check it out.

Totally sorry dude it is called “ColorPlace” fast dry spray paint. I also picked up a can of Kelly Green for DA vehicles, but I haven’t used it yet. However I have been using the flat black, white, and grey for years and have never had a problem. I don’t think I have bought GW primer since it was $8.99 a can.

Also are those rough riders you have from the Perry Twins?

Mr. S Baldrick wrote:Totally sorry dude it is called “ColorPlace” fast dry spray paint. I also picked up a can of Kelly Green for DA vehicles, but I haven’t used it yet. However I have been using the flat black, white, and grey for years and have never had a problem. I don’t think I have bought GW primer since it was $8.99 a can.

Also are those rough riders you have from the Perry Twins?

Its totally alright dude! Thanks for the info! I'll have to stop by and check it out. I don't want to overspend on GW products either.

Those rough rider conversions are mostly from the Perry Twins miniature company 'Perry Miniatures' There are pieces on them that are GW, such as the High Elf Silver Helm Lances and the Cadian Officer heads as well as the bits added to the models. They're 28mm so slightly smaller than GW's 'heroic scale' of 30mm, yet I think they work out nicely.

Thanks a lot. I am looking for some good rough rider stand ins myself. I am working on a praetorian army and the current GW riders do not fit well with them.

Nice

Mr. S Baldrick wrote:Thanks a lot. I am looking for some good rough rider stand ins myself. I am working on a praetorian army and the current GW riders do not fit well with them.

If you're doing Praetorians, you might want to check out Col. Gravis P&M Blog, he's got some sculpts for Praetorian rough riders: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/208605.page If I didn't go with the Perry Miniatures sculpts, I was going to get some of his sculpts. I'd suggest shopping around there are a lot of miniature companies with similar style uniforms. They just need to be uniform/dress uniform similar.

Capitansolstice wrote:Nice

Thank you sir!

Update: Picked up another Leman Russ Demolisher kit, a Catachan battleforce kit (for the bits!) and a GW Fantasy Chaos Marauders box set as I think I can use Catachan arms with the Marauders to create some similar Fenris IG models to the ones I've already created with a bunch of bits. With all these extra models I have and the conversions I've been seeing on here, I may just put a few more interesting squads together for some diversity on the battlefield. Also, I think it would just look cool.

If you take a look at:
http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Category:Imperial_Guard_Regiments#.TuRJYXp-HPg
http://wh40k.lexicanum.com/wiki/Regiments_of_the_Imperial_Guard#.TuRKOXp-HPg
There are literally hundreds of worlds to choose from and IG armies/units from many of them and so many conversion possibilities its boggling my mind.

I'm planning to give the LR another Tank Commander, but I need to get creative with this one, I want him to look Mordian and I may be able to achieve the "Drive me closer, I want to hit them with my sword" internet mem joke model I was going for. I've also received some magnets so I can demonstrate how I magnetized my current LR's sponsons.

I'm also working on a Hellhound/Banewolf kit, but want to magnetize the pieces so that I can switch out with not only the Hellhound/Banewolf combo, but also with other models that use that same vehicles base chassis.

The four chimeras I purchased are still sitting in the green stuff, I'm not sure when I'll get back to them and due to recent temperature drops, I've had to move them from the back porch to the garage.

I've got the Space Wolf Battleforce box to figure out what to do with, I'm wondering if I shouldn't just put them together for fun, but then what should I build?

In the meantime I'm clipping bitz and sorting them into plastic slotted storage containers, trying to maintain some sense of order.

I've also missed the deadline for the Kill Team tournament to get my force viewed/recorded/painted and modeled. I've had some family health issues come up and its going to be a long road before anything is resolved.

Thanks again everyone, you're all awesome and remember comments/suggestions/statements/heretical remarks are always welcome!

- H

Hay man this is the primer from Walmart I was telling you about. In my area there are 3 Walmarts and the price differs from 96-98 cents a can. It works great I have used it on every army I have worked on for about the past 6 or 7 years with out any problems. I have used the flat black, white, and grey. The green in the photo I have not gotten a chance to use yet.

Sweet man the sherman looks a bit awkward but the half track looks good. maybe you could have a custom chimera

Mr. S Baldrick wrote:Hay man this is the primer from Walmart I was telling you about.

Thanks! I recognize the cans! 3 walmarts? You must live in the South, I've got about the same amount within 5 miles of me. I will check it out tonight!

Lord Gearhart wrote:Sweet man the sherman looks a bit awkward but the half track looks good. maybe you could have a custom chimera

Thank you! The sherman may go to my nephew, I'm still debating it. The halftrack will need some work and to that end I visited a train hobby shop and picked up some sheets of styrene (also known as plastic card). I found 12" x 24" sheets for $3 each as well as a sizable bag of gravel (mainly used for model train rail road beds) for $3.50.

I'm still debating the alternate tank kits. I've been fairly busy and haven't been able to work on my models, yet I'm hoping to find some time soon.

I think the question is do yo feel the alternate vehicles will add something? Do they add something thematically? Do they add something to cost effectiveness? Do they add something aesthetically?
If they don't go back to GW vehicles. To me personally the use of scratchbuilt cardstock 40k vehicles means I can field an army faster and spend my hobby money on other projects. Admittedly I still use normal templates.
Personally I fealt the halftrack worked and added something I'm less sure about the Sherman although if you like it who am I to tell you otherwise?

Llamahead wrote:I think the question is do yo feel the alternate vehicles will add something? Do they add something thematically? Do they add something to cost effectiveness? Do they add something aesthetically?
If they don't go back to GW vehicles. To me personally the use of scratchbuilt cardstock 40k vehicles means I can field an army faster and spend my hobby money on other projects. Admittedly I still use normal templates.
Personally I fealt the halftrack worked and added something I'm less sure about the Sherman although if you like it who am I to tell you otherwise?

Those are some of the questions I've been asking myself. I want the force to look unique, the Mordians are an older/different style of IG force and there aren't going to be many of these armies out there. I want the vehicles to be just as awesome, but I don't want the vehicles to detract from the overall forces look.

I liked the simplicity of the halftrack conversion, but since I "went a little nuts" on it, its going to need some work to bring it back in line. I may use the plasticard and create a cab for it.

Also, I don't want to spend an arm & a leg purchasing at least 3 chimeras, 3 LR, 3 Vendetta/Valkyrie, etc etc..

I really need to come up with an army list for these guys..

I'll do an inventory of my models tonight when I get home and post up the count.

The "Robogear Condor" is a GREAT start for a Valkyrie/Vendetta stand-in. And dirt cheap.

--B.

Briancj wrote:The "Robogear Condor" is a GREAT start for a Valkyrie/Vendetta stand-in. And dirt cheap.

--B.

Those robogear models look cool, but only seem to be availa ble in Russia? Are there any US dealers?





Next to 28mm Models:

have you tried ebay? i bet there are some sellers on...

Viktor von Domm wrote:have you tried ebay? i bet there are some sellers on...

There are indeed, I just have to figure out if I want that model to represent my Valkyries or not.

In the meantime here is a Leman Russ Demolisher kit with magnetized sponsons!



I'll keep this one simple as its late for me here

Take a look at the assembled, unpainted side of this LR Demolisher kit, pay attention to the area where the sponsons would normally be glued on. Especially, the two rectangles of plastic between the two door/hatches.


In this image you can see a larger flat rectangle on the side of the LR Demolisher, that is actually a flat rare earth magnet glued to the side of the tank, additionally there is another one on the inside of the tank wall to add to the strength of the bond. If you then look at the sponson laying on its side, you will see a piece of plastic sprue has been glued in place and another magnet has been glued in place. You'll need to have lined up the magnets and sponson to the body/hull of the tank before gluing, This is important because you don't want swapped polarities.


I ran out of flat rectangular rare earth magnets and had to use my rod magnets and carve out a bit of sprue to hold the rod magnet in place:


This is an example of how I lined up my magnets to assure that I would get the polarities correct. Its also how I was able to line up the magnets on the sides of the model and in the sponson so nothing would be crooked or out of place.


The magnetized sponson then can be attached or removed as needed!


Some random action shots:




And as a last note, I love these new track guides! Whomever designed them is awesome!

Looking awesome Hugh. I agree with the track guides making it much harder to mess up track placements.

Hmelrose wrote:

Eiríkr wrote:I think you may need to thin your paints a little, chap.

Thank you, do you have a specific painted model/image in mind? I haven't tried to thin my paint before using it, I generally wet the brush and then paint it on thick. I'm brutal on brushes like that, but I think I get the job done faster.

If you have tips/tricks or techniques to share I'm always on the lookout to improve and develop mine.

Sorry for the late reply!

Do you have an old ceramic plate or tile that is spare for use? I simply add a drop of water for every drop of paint used, 1:1 basically. You will most likely have to add a second coat to it but the paint applies cleaner and, after the second coat, will have a real vibrancy to it that you won't find otherwise. It's also much easier to 'push' the paint around the model. This is especially true if you are using white primer, which you are. Try it out on a model! See if you like it.

@Hmelrose: I got a full bottle of Liquidtex Flow Aid, just get a dropper bottle.

I will bring it to GW next time so you can mix it with distilled water and have ready to use solution for thinning your paint.

It works better than water and on a ceramic tile/plate, it is wonderful.

Eiríkr wrote: Sorry for the late reply! Do you have an old ceramic plate or tile that is spare for use? I simply add a drop of water for every drop of paint used, 1:1 basically. You will most likely have to add a second coat to it but the paint applies cleaner and, after the second coat, will have a real vibrancy to it that you won't find otherwise. It's also much easier to 'push' the paint around the model. This is especially true if you are using white primer, which you are. Try it out on a model! See if you like it.

Thanks for the reply, no need to apologize we all get busy. I will definitely have to try that! I'll see about stopping by a hardware or tile store and getting a 'sample' of tile for use with this. I've experimented with thinning paints, but thats mainly been with keeping the brush wet and dropping excess water onto the paint I've put on the newspaper I use as a protective mat while doing my hobby work.

leohart wrote:Looking awesome Hugh. I agree with the track guides making it much harder to mess up track placements.
@Hmelrose: I got a full bottle of Liquidtex Flow Aid, just get a dropper bottle. I will bring it to GW next time so you can mix it with distilled water and have ready to use solution for thinning your paint. It works better than water and on a ceramic tile/plate, it is wonderful.

I'll have to try Eiríkr's suggestion first, but then I will definitely like to sit across the table and swap hobby tricks & tools with you.

I stopped in an old train hobby shop in Spring,Tx yesterday, the place is a bit of a mess, but the owner knows his stuff. I got this bag of basing material for $3.25! It'll go a long way if mixed with some beach sand and just plain roadside gravel. Get yourself a tupperware container with a good lid that seals tight, you want the container to be as big as the biggest model you plan to add basing to, so a 60mm base can fit in it. I've tried different types of glue on the base of the model and find that superglue works the best.


Here is a pic of some of what I'm dealing with on my hobby table:



More Mordian Iron Guard waiting to be converted, based & primed, then painted!














You can see the chimeras and other vehicles swimming in the simple green solution on the right.



I know I have close to 200 Mordian Iron Guard models, I just need to get a count of what types.
12 Lascannon HW team
1 Autocannon HW team
4 Heavy Bolter HW team
1 Missile launcher HW team
2 LR Demolisher kits ( one built, one on sprue )
4 Chimera (badly used and sitting in simple green)
1 Armored Sentinel (Fully magnetized)
1 Sentinel Scout
2 Sentinel Kits to be built
1 Hellhound/Banewolf kit
Cadian Battleforce box
Catachan Battleforce box
Several Cadian & Catachan well used command box sprues/kits
14 Rough Rider conversion models
12 Psykers
1 Primaris Psyker
4 Commissars
1 Lord Commissar
1 Creed
1 Kell
2 sets of Regimental advisors, one set of which are my own conversions.
2 Servitors
1 Fenris IG squad conversion
1 Box of Chaos Marauders (to be converted using Catachan bits to Fenris IG)
Several alternative vehicle possibilities.


1 Super Heavy Tank kit (fully magnetized)

Oh and a SW battleforce box,
Space marine Scout box (minus the legs)
1 Space marine Bike

Lots of bitz scavenged or dug up out of old boxes in the garage.

I may need more superglue.

I picked up the Walmart brand of paint as well as a can of Citadel Skull White primer and will be doing a test run/comparison on 3 of my models with them versus the P3 White Primer.

wow... that is huge...and needs lots of paint^^

also great way of doing magnetized sponsons... i really like that idera and it looks very good when not using the sponson!!!

@Hmelrose: awesome, waiting to hear more from you regarding the experience with the White primer from Walmart versus GW.