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Made in gb
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine






Northumberland, England

I'll bear the polishing kit in mind when I get to mine then, start as you mean to go on and all that.... In fact, if it's just polishing paper, I've already got a bunch of that for cleaning frets on guitars. I'd guess it does just as good a job

RE the primer staining - I wouldn't worry, your fresh primer should cover it all nicely. If anything, it may add some character because wings tend to get mottled faster as they collect all the moisture if the aircraft are parked in outside dispersal. Th lead packing is also a good idea - I'd never thought to do that, but that'll help nicely in a Boston III I intend to do next(-ish).

If you're unsure about masking the cockpit, I can highly recommend Vallejo Liquid latex applied with a silicone clay shaper. The silicone doesn't stick to the latex (at least not half as much as a brush) and it's easy to just paint it into place. THe only snag is that I've found the latex stretches when you pull it off, which can leave tiny tabs/flaps of paint attached to the bits you want. To get round that, just score the edges you want to pull away with a sharp scalpel, and it's comes out perfect. If you're anxious about ruining the cockpit, don't take the risk. I use some Mig masking putty (Great stuff, no residue and low tack), smushed into the cockpit so nothing is visible. Then you can spray the canopy and plane separately and easily assemble them afterwards

Into the Fires of Battle! Unto the Anvil of War!

Numine Et Arcu
 
   
Made in gb
Wrathful Warlord Titan Commander






London

Thanks man, I don't know if the Alclad papers are any different to other polishing papers, they go up to 12000 grit if that matters.

Yeah I'm a bit sceptical about the canopy masking, might just use the masking putty instead, thanks for the tip

   
Made in gb
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine






Northumberland, England

Aye I guess I'll be fine, mine go down to 1 Micron (14,000 grit)

You'll be alreet with it It's daunting at first, but the masking putty is a godsend really

Into the Fires of Battle! Unto the Anvil of War!

Numine Et Arcu
 
   
Made in gb
Wrathful Warlord Titan Commander






London

So no photos for this update unfortunately, but not actually much progress made, as I'll explain...


So I took the plunge with the Alclads. Sprayed up gloss black primer, sanded it down. Sanded it again right down to the 12000grit paper. Applied the Alclad silver...and it messed up. The overall condition wasn't too bad, but the high-shine Aluminium was almost comically shiny, as if I has just wrapped it in tinfoil.

Wasn't happy with that so I resprayed it with the gloss black. Sanded it. Sanded it. Sanded it again just to be sure...and sprayed the Alclad aluminium, which is less shiny than the High-Shine brand.

Went on nicely but while drying started to horribly wrinkle and distort, and at one point actually started to melt the wing.

Again, went back and stripped the whole thing down with the Biostrip. At this point some of the photoetch is peeling off from the cockpit which I managed to fix but this project is starting to do my head in a bit.

Stripped it down...

Applied the gloss black...

Sanded it...

(You get the idea)

Third time, the paint went on ok, even after I accidentally spilt half a pot of black*, masked up a couple of panels for differing shades and even the other colours, but again, it's started to just destroy part of the wing panels.

Sod it with the Alclads, I've ordered some Vallejo Metal Colour and am just going to strip it down and redo in harmless nice Vallejos. Will never use Alclads again if I can avoid it. Don't let this put you off, I think I just don't have the resources and expertise to use them properly.

Tomorrow I'll get back to stripping it down, reprime it with Vallejo black and just do the original plan. Will post some photos soon. In the meantime however I've been working on a few little Titanicus bits I've left for a while, so again, watch this space!




*Seriously, you see photos on 40k groups on Facebook of "oh look guys, I just spilt my Nuln Oil, I'm a member of the club now, hehehe!!!", seriously guys, clean that crap up. Don't spill you paints then complain your carpet is ruined because you wanted imaginary internet points.

   
Made in gb
Charging Dragon Prince






Argh, that sounds a PITA, glad you rescued the model... I hope the carpet survived the spill

Goberts Gubbins - P&M Blog, started with Oldhammer, often Blackstone Fortress and mini-Marines, Indomitus soon... hopefully! 
   
Made in gb
Wrathful Warlord Titan Commander






London

 gobert wrote:
Argh, that sounds a PITA, glad you rescued the model... I hope the carpet survived the spill


Cheers, luckily none of mine went on the carpet, but I saw one on Facebook the other day where the spilt paint (not Nuln Oil) was actually soaking into the models he's just done, and his first thought is "ooh I'm going to put this on social media!" Bloody idiot.

Anyway, I've begun stripping the Lightning down in manageable chunks, partly to preserve my patience, partly to prevent any further cockpit damage. In the meantime I've done a little bit of Titanicus stuff, starting with this pair of Warlord Gatling Blasters.

Took me ages to find a nice yellow method, came up with this:

1. Get a nice bright basecoat going. In this case I've used Vallejo Golden Yellow over a coat of Dead White, a nice stark, but flat colour.




2. Take some weathering powder, in this case Forge Worlds' own make, and use a dry brush, heavily apply it so it's almost solid black. Don't worry about streaks or anything as shown below:




3. Grab a slightly damp cotton bud, and start to remove the layer. Important: You don't want the cotton bud to be soaking wet. I've found that saliva for some reason actually works a bit better than water, and so just a light lick of the bud (giggidy) gets the best result.

You just want to buff it, push the bud around the edges so you get this black lining, and towards the centre of the panel use a very light touch, keeping the bud moist so you're almost buffing it.



Perhaps the photo doesn't do it justice but you end up with a nice contrast between the edges and the centre, with some shine when the light catches it. Make sure to seal it with some varnish once you're done then move on to the rest of the model.

By playing around with the amount you actually remove you can get some nice grimier, industrial looks such as on this Reaver.



Same technique except that I removed less powder, and worked it in more before removing it so there was more of a stain on the yellow. Overall it's turned out very nicely.

Majority of remaining Titanicus work is just final details, a couple of Turbo Lasers to finish as well as general touchups and some repairs from a bit of damage when moving flats, but will keep this going with the Lightning. Hope you enjoyed this one and give the technique a go, see how it works with you

   
Made in gb
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine






Northumberland, England

Valkyrie wrote: Bloody idiot.


Quite. I've never understood people's craving for validation on social media - especially with such obscure 'incidents' .

Anyway, shame to hear about your Alclad shenanigans. I was really hoping they'd work out for you because, as discussed, I've seen some really good results. That said, I'm confident you'll pull it back with the Vallejo - and you can still get a really nice effect. So... divvent fret and keep gannin . I'm really liking the effect on that Titan, and the mini-tutorial is excellent. I'll have to attempt that technique some time or another because you're right, it just hits that industrial grime feel perfectly.

Cracking work as always!

Into the Fires of Battle! Unto the Anvil of War!

Numine Et Arcu
 
   
Made in gb
Wrathful Warlord Titan Commander






London

 Warpig1815 wrote:
Valkyrie wrote: Bloody idiot.


Quite. I've never understood people's craving for validation on social media - especially with such obscure 'incidents' .

Anyway, shame to hear about your Alclad shenanigans. I was really hoping they'd work out for you because, as discussed, I've seen some really good results. That said, I'm confident you'll pull it back with the Vallejo - and you can still get a really nice effect. So... divvent fret and keep gannin . I'm really liking the effect on that Titan, and the mini-tutorial is excellent. I'll have to attempt that technique some time or another because you're right, it just hits that industrial grime feel perfectly.

Cracking work as always!


Cheers mate currently looking at ways to shade the Vallejo once applied, so fingers crossed it turns out better than the Alclad.

   
Made in gb
Esteemed Veteran Space Marine






Northumberland, England

I'd guess the same method of gloss and matt basecoats may apply - but I've also had good effects using filters (GWs washes actually) over metallics. Thin them down and you may get some nice tints. Dunno if that helps

Into the Fires of Battle! Unto the Anvil of War!

Numine Et Arcu
 
   
 
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