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On getting your washes back for sale (legally). Last September they appointed some people whose job is to help small businesses deal with the regs. It might be worth contacting them.

http://www.cpsc.gov/cgibin/sbo.aspx

vitae_drinker wrote:I have a question for your new Dirty Wash recipes...

Just to double check, if you're going to make 1 oz, then you double the requisite drops of ink, and quadruple it for 2 oz, and so on and so forth?

That seems like quite a lot based on the original wash recipes. Does that give you more depth on the washes? Also, has anyone tried the painting technique outlined here with these washes?

I agree it seems like a lot, but you gotta trust the master. I actually ran out to blick and picked up the materials to make ruby to help blend my red cloth. will let everyone know how it goes.

Dont know if this will help anyone in the UK on getting some inks?

http://direct.hobbycraft.co.uk

I live very close to this place, and the day i went in there i creamed my pants, it has so much usefull stuff in there.

Does anyone else have the problem when you shake your washes to remix the separated elements that it gets really bubbly? I don't know if its the water/flo or the matte medium causing it. I did notice that if I use the Ultra Matte Medium instead of the regular medium for some reason the bubbles don't form. Its more like suds on a mug of bear than bubbles. Any ideas?

When you go to drop out paint, wait a few seconds for as many bubbles as possible to float to the bottom of the dropper(which should be on top when you are squeezing out paint).

Dropping isn't the problem so much as the bubbles don't make there way through the dropper nozzle so much. I do have some in GW pots and when those get to bubbling they don't dissipate and I end up with a brush full of bubbles. Just seems interesting that when I add the Ultra Matte the bubbles don't seem to form. Maybe its just air trapped in the bottles. Oh well.

I know exactly the issue you have and I have it with my bleached bone and blood red most often. When this happens I consider the bubbled paint a loss and drop a new batch in a different spot.

If you use bowl shaped palettes most of the bubbles from the washes will migrate to the edge of the wash leaving the middle ripe for dipping your brush into.

Just wanted to say thanks for the wash recipe. I've used a few on some miniature figures, but my primary use has been for terrain. The low cost and high quality makes using your recipes ideal.

Although not a great photo, here is a shot of a slate roof I finished using the dark sepia, soft bodied black, and a couple areas of sap green and yellow ochre:


and a link to some more photos:
http://hirstarts.yuku.com/reply/46314/Crescent-Moon-Inn-and-Songhouse-WIP-2-28-2011-#reply-46314

Thanks again & keep up the great work!

Do you have a photo pre wash? I love the washes. I use them on damn near every model I paint these days.

Hm...unfortunately, no. I looked back through my pictures and the roof goes directly from unpainted to 'done'. A couple posts down from the one with the photos describes the colors I used if that is any help.

I recently mixed up a bottle of a dark Hawk Turquoise wash for my tyranids armor plating. It blended the sky blue highlights beautifully with the turqouise. I used 2 parts blue ink to on part green and 1 part black. Came out awesome.

AustonT wrote:...Dr. Martin's Bombay ink behaves strangely with the matte medium and tends to clump instead of mixing and granulates in coverage, if you use alcohol with it it will leave the crevasses bare and tone everything else, creating a white line effect (over white primer). And Higgins sells a good black, but their brown is actually a violet which is nothing like the sepia or umber you'd expect.

Does anyone have experience making washes with Speedball ink available at Michael's art/craft store? I can find the Bombay, W&N, and Higgins inks locally but it seems from a few posts here that only the Higgins (Black Magic?) works well and really only in Black.

Man, the effect on those washes is awesome! I've been using a 3:1 mix of water:future floor polish and inks for mine (magic wash). Once I run through the ones I have, I might try making these.

any one have a recipe for P3 armor wash?

is it close to les' recipe on the first page?

First ever post. Hello people.

Found your recipe, copied it step by step and as a noob it really helps my painting.

Anyone in the uk know where to buy dropper bottles in the 'vallejo' paints style? The ones I used are not brilliant

Thank les for amaIng tutorials, I have watched them all

Hi there, I get my bottles from

http://www.waterbuttsnbottles.co.uk

Not quite the same but the flip top caps work well as droppers much in the same as the Vallejo paints.

I actually bought those, not impressed by them to be honest.

Prefer the Vallejo style really wish I could get those

Just got my stuff together from an art store here in NY called A.I. Friedman. Ink, Flow-Aid, little 1 oz. bottles as well (had the matte medium sitting on the shelf). Distilled water is on the shopping list.
I'm extremely enthusiastic about trying this out. I need a good wash real bad.

Thank you Mr. Bursley for sharing with us about these washes.

I do understand your situation concerning product liability and I hope they just game you a verbal warning.

Been there, done that on one form or another and do not want to deal with it again.

Hopped onto secretweapon today.

20 washes for £40 including overseas shipping?

I tip my hat. Even better, I've got ready dosh in my paypal account, so no faffing around with my bank (they threw a hissy fit when I tired to pay in euros, which was funny, as I was in florence at the time, using a flamin' visa =/)

Mixed up black (using Bombay ink) and Sepia (the Dowler-Rowney): the results are amazing, this opens a lot more doors in painting for me.

Let there be no doubt: these washes are incredible. Gathering the materials is a bit time-consuming and doing the mixes takes patience - I would recommend getting them through Les' site. Although I mixed up my first two colors I would gladly pursue other colors through the store as it would save a lot of time and quite honestly it will save money (especially for the raw inks, when I'm using 40 drops from a bottle that costs over twice what the finished wash costs).

DRs Magenta (from the primary colors set) is more of a red, which is driving me nuts mixing colors.

Recipe is good other than that though.

Ambull wrote:Mixed up black (using Bombay ink) and Sepia (the Dowler-Rowney): the results are amazing, this opens a lot more doors in painting for me.

Let there be no doubt: these washes are incredible. Gathering the materials is a bit time-consuming and doing the mixes takes patience - I would recommend getting them through Les' site. Although I mixed up my first two colors I would gladly pursue other colors through the store as it would save a lot of time and quite honestly it will save money (especially for the raw inks, when I'm using 40 drops from a bottle that costs over twice what the finished wash costs).

I agree with you. I got the inks and the matte medium, etc. I made some soft body black wash and some sepia. Great stuff. I'll be just buying the washes now that secret weapon sells them. A lot more convenient and the amount of washes I can make with the items the recipe calls for is more than I'd use in 2 years. lol

I am quite happy I found this thread. Thanks a million.

Well I attempted to mix up some washes using Dr. Ph Martins Bombay inks. It appears that these are not nearly as concentrated as other brands. Even with tripling the recipe I ended up with barely visible pastel light washes.

I have been using these washes for a few weeks now and love them! I created a few of my own recipes too. One for Ork skin, one for the Blood Angles I am painting, one for leather pants, etc, etc. The next one I am going to create will be for the Ultramarines I am painting for my son. Good stuff! Yes, I have supplies now to make more washes than I might ever possibly need, but the fact that I can create a recipe for exactly what I need, when I need it is why I spent the money on the components. If you are doing a lot of painting, it is worth it IMO.

Apparently the Matt Medium I am using is too thick. It dilutes the color far too much. I have switched to a future/acrylic ink mixture and I love the results. It is obviously a gloss wash, but since I am using it on metals at this point it isn't detracting form the results. When I move on to other things I will apply a matt clearcoat to dull it down.

Thank you for this article. It has been bookmarked for future experiments!

LilLoser

Aren't all the products you're using already saftey tested and therefore ok to use? The way this sounds to me is that if I mix two differant paints together to get a custom color I am in violation of these laws.

MrJody wrote:Aren't all the products you're using already saftey tested and therefore ok to use? The way this sounds to me is that if I mix two differant paints together to get a custom color I am in violation of these laws.

Only if you sell it.

There are lots and lots of chemicals that are benign themselves but become toxic when mixed. That is why regulations like that exist.