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Lining looks interesting, certainly a novel approach. Titan base is looking pretty, I'll have to break the bank and get one eventually, definitely worth every little bit of extra attention.

Oh and I have to completely agree on FF 13 being awful, I've been playing the series since I was notably shorter than I am now and that was the most disappointing game I played that year.

Feel your pain on the painting black, having a nightmare with some white cloth I'm doing.

@Gits: The effect would probably be better with a darker gray pencil, but all I could get was a 50% cool gray (ideal would have been 70-80%). That being said, It does paint up pretty quickly, and actually doesn't look too bad. Definitely one of the easier and more effective methods for painting black that I've found!

@IG: The Warhound is a pretty sweet kit. Complex and hard to assemble in some respects (the cables are still the biggest pain in the ass to bend!), but the overall model is awesome. Big, Beautiful, and lots of opportunity to play with the base!


Sooooo another day, another update.

Lots of metals to paint. I've also burned through all of my black paint too! At least at this stage, everything is washed and ready to highlight, so Im getting there!

What the heck is that rhino... it's... weird. Not Mk-1, not modern either.

I'm going to guess its a forgeworld rhino.

Ice nailed it. Picked up some faked up FW from a local trade for dirt cheap. It was all fixable, they just weren't familiar with FW resin. It's got the good parts of the current rhino and the old school ascetics of the MkI. Called Deimos Pattern MkIc pattern.

http://www.forgeworld.co.uk/Warhammer-40000/Space_Marines/Space-Marine-Tanks/MKIC-DEIMOS-PATTERN-RHINO.html

Ah! I didn't mean to suggest I didn't like it... it's just "between worlds" so-to-speak.

Yuuup! I rather like the look of it. I think it takes on some of the best of both worlds: The scale of the new with bits of the old aesthetic.
This particular kit was a bit of a pain to assemble cause of the bending, but a bit of hot water and a lot of time and it banged out to a pretty serviceable rhino! The FW hatches were too far gone, though, so i subbed in the new plastic hatches/turrets instead.


Today's progress: a little more work on the Razor.


Messed around with the exhausts using a technique similar to the heat damage I used on the Assault Cannons last year, with a bit of flat black being sprayed at the top to simulate soot/burned metal. Ive also knocked out the lenses, keeping with the spot color of Red. The turret I've painted in a bare meal color. Something of an experiment. Should look nice against the black armor of the gun and main tank chassis.

The Dozer blade has a raw decal on it right now, currently pondering if I want to keep it or use something different. This one is similar to the pair I used last year on the two RS razors, but with a different verse on it. What I'm considering is to save this for another RS dozer and use a different design altogether specific to this Inquisitorial Razorback.

Other than that, I think Ill be popping more purity seals and litanies on it once the colors are blocked out. Theoretically I'll get this guy done tomorrow!


Also, i got the autocannons up to their full silver and black. The lustre will be knocked down considerably once matte varnish goes down.




The Contemptor's bodies and legs are unfortunately on hold, as I am now completely out of any kind of black paint. I even burned through the bottle of black primer! I'll need to swing out to the stores and pick more up. Fortunately the Hobby Lobby near here stocks a little bit of Vallejo Model Color.

Looking good dude! especially the Razor! did you stay with the pencil edging on it? I'd love to see how it turned out close up if you get a chance? I've a black Rhino to do and am putting it off due to fright :-)

I just misposted.

Posted it on my MW blog moonpie.

@Nerd: Yup yup! I stuck with the edging. I think it worked out rather well! Close-ups will need to wait till tomorrow, though- the razor is complete, but i didnt get a chance to varnish it.

In the mean time, I thought I'd let you guys in on a bit of an experiment I tried out with my decal paper.

THE OBJECTIVE: decent, opaque colors on clear decal paper.

THE TOOLS: Paint, Photoshop, and Clear decal sheets

THE PROCESS:

After having laid out my design in Photoshop, I printed it out onto clear decal paper and clearcoated the design (see my previous tutorial on printing your own decals). Its very important to keep your design in mind while laying out your decal. All of the "white" areas will be colors of one sort or another. Think of it like planning a coloring book.

Here is my design cut out:


Next, soak the decal for 30 seconds or so. For larger decals like this one, it is important to make sure the decal is fully loosened from the backing paper. Otherwise, it may rip.
HERE IS WHERE THINGS GET TRICKY

Dampen a smooth, nonporous work surface (like a styrofoam plate or your desk), and gently slide the decal off of its backing paper. Be super careful all throughout this process, as you will be manipulating what is essentially a piece of wet tissue paper. Take your time, and ensure the surface is kept damp.
You want to make sure to put it down face first, so the back is facing up.



Now, dab the top of the decal with a paper towel. You want to ensure a semi-dry surface for when you apply paint.
Fill in the various areas of "white" with your chosen colors. I used various foundation paints, as they have the best coverage from what I have available. Keep in mind that you will be painting in reverse, so any highlights should be painted on before their basecoat. I find that highlights are not really necessary, as painting flat colors actually lends itself to making the final product appear to be a silkscreened decal.
Dont worry about painting outside of the lines- the black is dark enough to hide any extra paint.

After all colors are applied and dried, give it a spritz with clear varnish (I used my airbrush to spray a coat of high gloss. This coat is to ensure your paint does not flake off.



At this stage, you are ready to apply your decal.
CAREFULLY use a wet brush to lift up an edge of the decal, and slowly pull it from your work surface. Liberal application of extra water can help the process. You will be left with something like this:



To apply, I brushed thinned gloss varnish on the back of the decal and placed it on the model. I burnished it with a damp paper towel to remove as many wrinkles as I was able to, as well as to force out any bubbles. A final gloss coat helps to seal the decal.


And there you have it!

looks like an animation cel.

Pretty slick there son... Nice tut.

Tricky, it would even allow for shading on the large chunks of color in theory.

Now that looks great! what an excellent idea for another level of customization of our lovely models :-) the end result of the decal is stunning and i await it eagerly to appear on a dozer blade!

Yeah I cant believe we didn't get the final shot of the model, I'm sure Ramos is teasing us

Heyyyy It'll keep ya coming back for more, right Gir?

@Cyp: After reading a bit on how cels are painted (I never knew you painted the color on the back), I realize that technique is exactly like an animation cel, save for increased fragility of the film.

Well here's the final shots:


And with Coteaz and his squad.



Finally, some close up shots of the edging for nerd- the graininess is either from my camera or some glare from the matte varnish/ errant weathering powder. Nothing looks good this close xD



Now for lots of contemptors...

Looks good. The edging works well.

Transfer work was interesting. But why not print the red and gold and then just paint the white? Not opaque enough?

Exactly. Clear decal paper is great for black, cause black ink is super opaque, but colored inks tend to be very translucent. They probably wouldnt show up against the black at all just being printed.
Although... Perhaps printing it off, then painting the white all over the back... Could work, but i wanted a specific color in this case. I wanted the red especially to match with the rest of the miniature, something hard to do with a computer and printer.

Normally I would use white paper for colored decals (like the RS dozerblades), but I wanted to try something a little different this time around (plus i didnt have enough decal work to fill up a page of white paper!)

That looks proper different than a standard Razorback, which was what I was looking for. Came out good, the grey grim will go nice with the urban bases and the red really worked wonders for the wall o black. Do you think that will work on the RS tanks? Grey on grey that is.

I think it'll work on the RS tanks. It may not be as bright, but I think it'll definitely be noticeable. Its a layer of a lightish gray sprayed on, then a smattering of weathering powders- a tan/brown one and the chalky gray which is most evident in the pics.
Glad ya like it!!

 Ramos Asura wrote:
Heyyyy It'll keep ya coming back for more, right Gir?

Oh yes indeed it does. The dozer blade and Razorback look fantastic together very inquisitorial

Thanks Ramos, that actually looks pretty damn decent with the pencil doesn't it! :-) certainly something I may consider after I try it with paint then get angry, cry for a while then re paint and use your method!

Ah psi cannons

This is pretty epic... I've gotta keep that pencil trick in the back of my head. I've heard of people using them for battle damage and scrapes, but edging... Very nice.
Also that trick with the transfer is sick.

Excellent.. thou my one suggestion would be to highlight the dozer blade tines. Weather them a bit. The bottom of the blades should be showing some wear.

Ramos, when do we get to see some Marines Errant? I want to see what you're going to do for these "Helldrakes"

 IceAngel wrote:
Ramos, when do we get to see some Marines Errant? I want to see what you're going to do for these "Helldrakes"

Listen to Ice!!! Do what he tells you!!! You will awake feeling restfull and alert. You will tigger everytime Ice mentions Bieber!

oh...You have less than 2 MONTHS Brother!!

For What It Is Worth (tm): "Actual" decals are ALPS printed, which is what allows them to print bright, vibrant colors (as well as making white decals). Sadly, the prosumer market for ALPS printers died off, so this technique is one of the best replacements.

After you print the decal, you can get a layer or two of 'thickness' by spraying one or two extra coats of gloss medium over the top of the printed decal, before you remove it from the backing paper.

Congrats, Ramos! Job WELL done!

 Solar_lion wrote:

 IceAngel wrote:
Ramos, when do we get to see some Marines Errant? I want to see what you're going to do for these "Helldrakes"

Listen to Ice!!! Do what he tells you!!! You will awake feeling restfull and alert. You will tigger everytime Ice mentions Bieber!

oh...You have less than 2 MONTHS Brother!!

Weather dependent, I'll be making a visit soon. Hoping to work on this primarily (though Andrew does have an idea in his head). Biohazzrds looks like it could fit the bill thought.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/870/399556.page#6343404