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grizgrin wrote:
and for those shopping at Micheals:
http://www.michaels.com/020211-Digital/020211-Digital,default,pg.html

Do they even sell the stuff at Michaels?

Grizgrin said

And a description for Mold Maker from Sculpey themselves:
http://www.sculpey.com/products/clays/mold-maker

I've been using regular Sculpey for my mold making needs. If time allows, I'm going to check this other stuff out on a later date to make a comparison.

Regular Sculpey is very reasonable to use

I was thinking....

Has anyone tried/suggested JB Weld?

2 part mix, doesn't heat up while drying, and is as hard as steel when done.

Although it takes 24 hours to completely solidify.

You could make a 2 part mold with some breather lines and just inject the JB Weld right into the mold via hand pressure of squeezing.

Oh WOW. Ok, thats "get the credit card" good

AgeofEgos - Didnt mean to sound rude man, as always my sarcasm doesnt come across well in text form






Ok Orky rokkits and stuff, time to get some work done!

JB Weld? Some people has gotten decent results. I have not. Too messy of a job to work with when I use that stuff.

My Milliput effort had a slight misalignment!
But have had a little play with it and is looking alright.
Will most likely use earlier efforts for objective markers or conversions.

A note about the Superfine Milliput.
Have changed my mind because now it is fully cured it is hard, slightly waxy but I feel a tad brittle. Will be okay but for gaming.
I take it back Druidic! GS in the mix it is!

pics pics pics! Document everything!!!

Just a note on paint shapers: Dick Blick will send you 40% off coupons periodically if you sign up for their mailing list. They are also having a back to school sale I think until the end of the month if you are looking to get stuff. This week I am going to pick up stuff for Les' wash recipe and a wet palette at 40% +10% student discount

Great find! I'm finding myself (like everyone else) short on weapons and without the funds to buy extras. I will definitely be trying this stuff out.

Anyone tried casting using air dry clay in these moulds?

Have to say this looks so much easier than making more traditional moulds for resin casting (I've made a few and we don't really get on ).

I think based on what people are saying here I will look into getting some of this stuff, as I have a bunch of custom sculpted bits I want to reproduce and don't feel like sculpting a million times.

Tried it as mentioned earlier.
Not overly impressed (pun intended).
May have been my fault as it was the first medium I tried, but the results were too inconsistent.


I could try again with the mould I subsequently made. Guess for simple moulds it will be fine but it didn't seem to take the detail that well.

Chibi Bodge-Battle wrote:Tried it as mentioned earlier.
Not overly impressed (pun intended).
May have been my fault as it was the first medium I tried, but the results were too inconsistent.

What was the original made of, and what medium did you use?

Styrene master
Oyumaru mould
Das air drying clay medium

I may have pulled the cast before the last bits had dried.
The problem is the air drying so of course the clay in the recesses is going to take longer.

Two part resins and putties harden by chemical reaction afaik so this is not a problem

Just realized that thanks to this, my Dalek army can move forward...

I don't know how i missed this thread until now but this stuff looks great!! Luckily i still have my receipt for some "Amazing mold putty" time to return it and order some insta mold. I have plenty of green stuff laying around and some easy cast, casting epoxy. Does anyone know if "EasyCast" heats up when it hardens? (havent got around to using it yet.) Also thank you for showing us this fantastic product!

I don't know not too impressed to be honest. I get better results with my RTV molds. Sure it takes 24 hours to cure but the results look much better (and of course it is more expensive).

Since I am still new to this site, how do you post your picts to this topic? I have had some success using a scupley product and simple epoxy putty. I would like to share on what I have done.

Brettz
You are probably correct. But it depends what you are doing. This is my first real attempt at casting and my first ever 2 part cast.
It is a simple method so for much of what I need this will be adequate.
If necessary I may have to try RTV casting.

With some spare Oyumaru in between the last two mediums I cast a piece for a base. No effort required.
Love the flexibility of this stuff.

Adam
You need to register with an image hosting site like photobucket. Upload the pics from your computer then copy and paste the img code. hth
let us know if you have any probs

Chibi Bodge-Battle wrote:Brettz
You are probably correct. But it depends what you are doing. This is my first real attempt at casting and my first ever 2 part cast.
It is a simple method so for much of what I need this will be adequate.
If necessary I may have to try RTV casting.

With some spare Oyumaru in between the last two mediums I cast a piece for a base. No effort required.
Love the flexibility of this stuff.

Adam
You need to register with an image hosting site like photobucket. Upload the pics from your computer then copy and paste the img code. hth
let us know if you have any probs

Ohh I'm with you on the simplicity of it all. When I first started casting my own bits it was a little overwhelming. It is always good to get your feet wet first. Anyway I would suggest the following for mold making:

http://www.micromark.com/Ten-To-One-and-High-Tear-Strength-Mold-Rubber-28-Fl-Oz,8155.html

It took me a little to learn how to really use it but now I can whip up stuff really easily.

So what is the final word is this Friendly plastic or no? it would not seem so, FP seems rather cristaline and that it would snap unlike this which looks kind of flexible.

Question, can you heat this to a melting point and still use it? does it become toxic or ruins the material?. If you can it looks quite promising.

so what's the most popular "putty" to use?

Chibi: Can you please let us know where you got your Oyumaru?

Also, has anyone else had any success with any products that are available to be ordered off the internet? I've never seen anything like these products in NZ .

Thanks!

I got mine from a British art supplier called Fred Aldous via ebay, though they have an online store too.

The stuff unsurprisingly is Japanese and it may be cheaper to source it from there to Wellington, assuming it can't be had in NZ.

Found this
http://www.webmanagement.co.nz/store/index.php?act=viewProd&productId=325
you may find better deals if you google "buy oyumaru new zealand"
hth

Cool. at that price I didn't bother to look any further, ordered it right away. Hopefully I'll have some good luck with it as well (need to make som custom bits for my 'nids)

Quick question for anyone who has made a 2 piece mold:

Have you tried making the "bottom" of a mold and then let it cool/harden before making the "top"? Do the two sides of instant mold stick to each other or do they remain separate?

It might not be a bad idea Scotty, as it would probably help in seperating the halves as they won't fuse together as they would if you make the two halves simultaneously.

I sort of did it by accident and there was a natural seperation along the "fault line"

Would be interesting if someone would try that. Sorry am using all mine at the moment

Scottywan82 wrote:Quick question for anyone who has made a 2 piece mold:

Have you tried making the "bottom" of a mold and then let it cool/harden before making the "top"? Do the two sides of instant mold stick to each other or do they remain separate?

That's damn good thinking there. Will have to try it as soon as i get mine.

Scottywan82 wrote:Quick question for anyone who has made a 2 piece mold:

Have you tried making the "bottom" of a mold and then let it cool/harden before making the "top"? Do the two sides of instant mold stick to each other or do they remain separate?

Yeah, I was thinking about something like this too. I found i am horrible at cutting the 2 molds apart when they are fused. i will try it out tomorrow.

I did a quick test letting the first cool and the second peeled off nicely. This will possibly mean there is more likelihood of error if you are not careful.

Would be a good idea to peg it, as discussed above, to help with aligning the halves for casting.

When I say peg it, don't mean pop off this mortal coil btw!

Scottywan82 wrote:Quick question for anyone who has made a 2 piece mold:

Have you tried making the "bottom" of a mold and then let it cool/harden before making the "top"? Do the two sides of instant mold stick to each other or do they remain separate?

I just thought of that on my way home tonite, great minds!