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Wow Mhelrose! You are getting a helluva lot done over here! I lve the bike conversion! BTW, don't get frustrated with the copper tube, it will be your friend in time. I use a cheap, Taiwan-made pipe cutter like this:

It works great, and only cost me $4 at Menards. Probably the same at any Lowes or Home Dpot-type place.

dsteingass wrote:Wow Mhelrose! You are getting a helluva lot done over here! I lve the bike conversion! BTW, don't get frustrated with the copper tube, it will be your friend in time. I use a cheap, Taiwan-made pipe cutter like this:

It works great, and only cost me $4 at Menards. Probably the same at any Lowes or Home Dpot-type place.

Thanks! Yeah, I've got a lot of time on my hands + I don't sleep = plenty of time for hobbies!

The brass pipe is a little frustrating, but its not something I can't work with. It might not be the right thing for this conversion. Which item in that pic is the pipe cutter? Is it the red thing?

The options at lowes are primarily for PVC & Plastic pipe, though the last one looks to be for multiple pipe.
http://www.lowes.com/SearchCatalogDisplay?Ntt=pipe+cutter&storeId=10151&N=0&langId=-1&catalogId=10051&rpp=24

More work done on the Psykers:











Cameras are brutal, they truly show the flaws and mistakes in my painting!

Oh yeah, I need to put this here so I don't lose it: Flexible, roll-up-able, paint-able gaming mats!

http://www.zuzzy.com/dr-tf-001_terra_flex_gaming_mat.html

Yeah the little red thing. I also bought a so-called "Hobby-Grade" pipe-cutter just like it for a lot more, but it is plastic, and isn't as good as the cheap-o. It works simply liek a bigger one, put the pipe in, tighten it, spin it, tighten, spin, tighten, and soon it makes a nice flush, and not sharp cut in any pipe, metal or plastic. I have a better picture of them both, I just need to find it.

Those psykers look great. Hey if you ever pop into GW and I manage to be there, I can help you finish them up. I am pretty good with pipelining now .

The link to the display board is ridonculous. :|

Go Go IG + SW. Give us MOAR.

Here it is:

Hmelrose wrote:Here are my notes and pics on working with brass rod to create 'Chopper' version of a Space Marine Bike:
( I won't post all the pics, so I created a gallery and uploaded the images )
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-23047_Sm%20Bike%20Chopper%20Conversion.html

Here's what we're working with:


Close up shot of the brass pipe


I used the hacksaw to cut just above the fender on the bikes front wheel. Watch the angle of the cut as you'll probably do what I did here and cut into the bike's body. Angle it and rotate the bike as you'll have to cut each portion of the front fork individually.


And, the front wheel cut off:


Lining up the brass tube to see which would work the best, looks like 129 for the top and 128 for the bottom, good thing these two sizes will slide into each other. Now to cut.


I used scotch tape to tape a small ruler to my vise to help me keep the length of pipe I cut the same. I measured out 0.5" for the 129 pipe and cut two pieces, this will be the top of the fork on the bike.




Here is the 128 Pipe, I decided since this was going to slide inside of the 129, then I'd cut it a bit longer for support purposes and to stretch out the front wheels further.



The two pipes pushed together:


Used my pin vise to drill out holes for pinning, this is also for additional support. I used paperclips for pinning, they're affordable and strong, yet easy to cut with a set of wire snips.



Quick shot with just the pinning in place:


Shot with both pipes put together, I'm thinking they may be a little long, so I might cut the 129 down to 0.25" and the 128 to 0.5" lengths.


This is with just the 129 length at 0.5" long. The pipe would need to be filled and GS around it.


Last shot of my work area.


All in all, I'd have to say that I had a bit of a tough time working with the brass pipe and I'm not entirely sold on it. I'm going to try to locate some plasticard tube at a local train/hobby shop as I think that would be easier to work with. I think this is a good start to figuring out brass pipe though. More work will need to be done to the bike to make it more presentable.

The remaining pipe can be used to dress up my IG vehicles a bit. We shall see.

What do you think?

it reminds me on the bike i had unfinished on my desk, lol! the fork isn't a bit too large!? IMO

btw......love the work you had done whit the building! tehy are amazing!

There is no such thing as too large in 40k! You do need a steel ruler though, that wooden one will soon be destroyed

dsteingass wrote:Yeah the little red thing. I also bought a so-called "Hobby-Grade" pipe-cutter just like it for a lot more, but it is plastic, and isn't as good as the cheap-o. It works simply liek a bigger one, put the pipe in, tighten it, spin it, tighten, spin, tighten, and soon it makes a nice flush, and not sharp cut in any pipe, metal or plastic. I have a better picture of them both, I just need to find it.

Ooh yeah, I see what you mean in your other post above, very nice. I'll have to look for one soon.

leohart wrote:Those psykers look great. Hey if you ever pop into GW and I manage to be there, I can help you finish them up. I am pretty good with pipelining now .

The link to the display board is ridonculous. :|

Go Go IG + SW. Give us MOAR.

Thanks Leohart! I always appreciate help with painting and the hobby in general. Yes, that gaming board is beautiful. I've been working out the design on my own. I would go with a full city scene like he created, but maybe a flat surface with some felt or colored sand and some loose terrain stored inside when the table is folded shut.

I'm working on it all at the same time! Haha, I'll do my best to keep it all coming.

dsteingass wrote:There is no such thing as too large in 40k! You do need a steel ruler though, that wooden one will soon be destroyed

Not too large, but maybe too long for the front fork, it is only 1" in length, but I'll need to work on finishing the conversion before I can make the judgement. I can always have the back wheel off the ground and the front wheel kicked out into the air similar to my other bike.

I take it you missed the steel ruler in the pics? The one I had next to the wood ruler and then later taped to the vise where I was cutting the pipe?

dsteingass wrote:Here it is:

Oh yeah, very nice! I will have to shop around for that and a miter board. I think I might have better luck at a hobby lobby or Michaels, both are sort of generalist hobby/craft stores that tend to cater more towards scrapbooks soccer moms, but also have plastic model kits in 1/48 & 1/35 scale as well as train hobby terrain kits, some airbrush equipment and clear plexi glass as well as brushes and stencils. I've been looking for a wolf stencil to use on the sides and/or tops of my Space wolf vehicles. Though I might just have to order or make one from a picture and some card stock. I'd also got some lettering stencils to add words to my Mordian Vehicles.

FantasyBob wrote:

Hmelrose wrote:Here are my notes and pics on working with brass rod to create 'Chopper' version of a Space Marine Bike: ( I won't post all the pics, so I created a gallery and uploaded the images )
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-23047_Sm%20Bike%20Chopper%20Conversion.html

it reminds me on the bike i had unfinished on my desk, lol! the fork isn't a bit too large!? IMO

btw......love the work you had done whit the building! tehy are amazing!

FantasyBob! Thanks for stopping by and commenting! The fork I'm still unconvinced on, but I think as the work progresses, that I'll like it more.

Which building are you referencing?

I'm still working on the Psykers and have progressed to adding a coat of Citadel Chainmail to their metal bitz.

They don't have pipe cutters at Michael's unfortunately. But I shop there all the time for supplies otherwise.

And, while I had them out, I decided to grab a little Citadel Golden Yellow and paint their coats up similar to an image of Doc Brown from Back to the Future

lol...i like the contrast idea you are going for with those psykers...as oposing the scheme from your mordians...that makes them stick out from the crowd quite nicley...

and dave... now that i have come to terms with that PC dillema i had before i think i need that tubecutter soon too...it is always a pain for me to cut tubes with precision...

dsteingass wrote:They don't have pipe cutters at Michael's unfortunately. But I shop there all the time for supplies otherwise.

Good to know!

And, now an update on the Psykers!





Now, I need to go to sleep... I have to be up in 4 hours.

ouch... workis such a drag for hobby^^ have a good if short night mate^^

I know, I am extremely cranky myself today because I am at work ad I'd rather be at home.

well...think of it as a massive suply drop you work for^^

Viktor von Domm wrote:ouch... workis such a drag for hobby^^ have a good if short night mate^^

Thanks man, I'm awake and have been for a few hours now. Getting back at it on less than full power sucks.

dsteingass wrote:I know, I am extremely cranky myself today because I am at work ad I'd rather be at home.

I'm always cranky lately. My hobby work is my only chance to release/focus on something else.

Viktor von Domm wrote:well...think of it as a massive suply drop you work for^^

O.o I need loot.

That's some great painting going on there. Those Psykers are shaping up nicely.

Hmelrose wrote:Oh yeah and before I lose the awesomeness that is this portable gaming table that folds up on itself! I'm going to post the link here:
http://privateerpressforums.com/showthread.php?90386-Pake-s-portable-gaming-board

Now I've been tooling around with some sketches on how to create a gaming table that would be good for both Warmachine and Warhammer 40K games. This portability just adds icing to the cake! The table would need to be 4' x 6' in length at minimum to accommodate both game sizes. I like the inclusion of rare earth magnets to help with sticking smaller pieces of terrain or buildings to the board when it is situated.

The only problem with this design is that the table would still require a table or playing surface to sit on( possibly some saw horses would work as well), but it would be pretty easy to do an outdoor version! you just need variable terrain in foam sizes, a lot of watered down PVA glue and some sand. Then you'd paint the table with the PVA glue mix, pour sand on it, let that dry, then paint more PVA glue on it in thicker coats. Afterwards, Spray Green and brown as desired. Rare Earth magnets could be used for Forests or boulders/hills.

You would still need a separate box for buildings and terrain as well as carrying cases for your army, so this after building it, would involve a significant day of gaming to make use of its awesomeness. Yet, having the ability to put the table up and out of the way and not have it look too bad would be a boon to many a gaming family.

For this 4'x4' Gaming table it looks like he just used 1"x6" boards with a sheet of plywood underneath "There is a 9mm plywood on the bottom".

I'm thinking you would need four 2'x1"x6" boards for the inside and two 4'2"x1"x6" boards for the long outside edges. Though if you were making a 4'x6' playing surface then the cut of the boards on the outside edges would be 6'2"x1"x6"

The plywood would be two pieces of 4'2"x2'1". Though if you were making a 4'x6' playing surface then the cut of the plywood would be 6'2"x2'1"

I'm not sure how much that cover piece for the fold is, but I think its going to be slightly longer than 12" due to the hinge fold and the 6" from the edge of the 1"x6", though now that I think about it, if the scissor hinge folds the two halves up to where they meet, then the bottom gap is 12".

The hinges he says are "Scissor hinge or Knife hinge" and a quick google search shows that the knife hinge is more accurate. I'm not able to find them on lowes or home depot website so might need to try a more traditional hardware store.

The rest of it would be simply sanding and staining the wood. Brackets/latches should be easy enough to find. I'd keep the stryrene terrain inside removable and in sections so you could alter it a bit. Possible use of pegs to help keep it in place might work.

Another option would be to line the bottom inside with felt or flat sheets of sand paper so you could remove the foamboard terrain from the equation and just have a solid green playing surface. Or I could buy this and cut it in half and glue it to the bottom inside of the box
http://www.zuzzy.com/dr-tf-001_terra_flex_gaming_mat.html


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Flying Pooo wrote:That's some great painting going on there. Those Psykers are shaping up nicely.

Thank you Mr. Pooo!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Here is my first attempt to reverse engineer that folding / portable gaming table, I quickly realized my measurements were a bit off.


So here is my second attempt, albeit with less sleep behind me and more hours ahead of me:


This may be closer and more accurate to the build, but I won't know til I actually build the thing. You'll notice that I noted the boards at 1"x6", when after reviewing the pictures, I think that Pake actually used 1"x4" boards, so that changes some things.





Automatically Appended Next Post:
A little more work was done on the Psykers as well. Chaos Black was added to the belt, holster and boots of the models as well as an additional layer of Golden Yellow and another of Chainmail and some Elf Flesh to the heads. They're still progressing and should be done in another day or so of painting.

I was doing a search for wargames terrain and came across this site with lots of good suggestions and examples:

http://ironhands.com/train.htm
http://ironhands.com/necro.htm
http://ironhands.com/tehnolog.htm
http://ironhands.com/industry.htm

And, I was wondering which scale, in model railroading, is used with 28mm figs? This is in regards to buildings and after some searching I learned that it was either S or O scale

At 1:48 scale the US is smaller than the 1:43 popular in the UK, but be careful as there is a considerable margin of error in a lot of O scale stuff.

"I think O Scale has a different meaning in Europe than in the US"

"O" isn't a scale, it's a gauge. It sort of represents regular gauge track at about 1:43 – 1:48 or narrow gauge for 1:32

The track doesn't actually really match up to any scale properly being either too narrow or too tall depending on which way you look at it.

In Britain, people have standardized around 7mm to the foot – about 1:43.5 as the "normal" scale to go with it.

In America, the use of O evolved through the O27 scale which puts 3/16inch to the foot scale trains on O gauge track. 3/16:foot is 1:64, at which scale a 6 foot person is about 28mm tall… and hence US O is pretty much spot on.

1:64 with proper scaled rails is known as S scale, but S scale stuff is bonkersly hard to get hold of – most S modelers have to build their own rolling stock… Grandt Line (TM Terrain are a UK stockist) do S scale structural parts.

HO (half-oh), however is both a scale and a gauge; Trains are 3.5mm to the foot (1:87) running on scale rails; 16.5mm apart = standard gauge 4' 8.5"

In Britain, people run OO (double-oh) scale trains (4mm to the foot, 1:76) on HO gauge track; meaning the trains are actually running on slightly narrow rails.

P4 is the gauge correct for OO scale – it's 18mm wide…

Plasticville buildings are a good match.

http://www.tandem-associates.com/plasticville/plasticville.htm
Plasticville buildings are halfway between O and S. They were originally intended to go with Lionel's O27 sets, but they were deliberately made a bit small to be usable with American Flyer S sets as well.

O Scale for buildings and cars.
S Scale for people.

Miniatures are not scaled correctly, and it's absurd to try and quantify them that way.

An O Scale figures head fits perfectly on a 28mm-30mm miniature and looks great. However, a complete O Scale figure is far too tall to use with 28/30mm.

And here's some added new loot for my troops:





Automatically Appended Next Post:
More work done on the Psykers for the Mordian Iron Guard force. I decided I didn't like the Liche Purple for the sash and went over it with a few layers of Enchanted blue as well as lightened up the Ultramarines blue with the same color. I did some touch ups with the Golden Yellow and generally worked to get these models a little cleaner.








As always Comments & Critiques are welcome!

Some sweet convo's!

I love the enchanted blue + purple. Maybe the camera is not helping but did you wash then layer up that blue? It looks a bit flat.

Skipphag da Devoura wrote:Some sweet convo's!

Thank you for stopping by! Does anything pop out at you? Do you have any suggestions/comments/critiques? I'd love to hear more about what you think of my work

leohart wrote:I love the enchanted blue + purple. Maybe the camera is not helping but did you wash then layer up that blue? It looks a bit flat.

I painted over Liche Purple with a few layers of thinned out Enchanted blue, other than that, no washes yet. I need to actually read the painting manuals I've acquired.

i hope you are feeling better? these days my wife has the blues too...i guess it is the lack of sunlight with her...i bet we should get those daylight bulps soon...

also i have to say that plan/sketch for that foldable table looks rather sound...when will you start to work on that project?

im a bit angry because it seems that when ever i subscribe to this it never goes through so then i dont visit it because i assume it is with all my subed ones, but now that i found it again it better work because i do love what you have going here, some nice guardsmen indeed

Viktor von Domm wrote:i hope you are feeling better? these days my wife has the blues too...i guess it is the lack of sunlight with her...i bet we should get those daylight bulps soon...

also i have to say that plan/sketch for that foldable table looks rather sound...when will you start to work on that project?

Thank you Vik, Its not just me thats down it is the whole family. Its just not a good time for us. But Thank you for caring enough to care about how I'm doing, It really means a lot to me.

The table Idea I'm still working on, I need to make sure the design is sound before I 1) make the final sketch, 2) purchase materials, 3) Build it.

I've been tossing the idea of modular mdf/foam board terrain pieces of about 12"x12" and 2" to 4" deep depending on the outside boards I use for the table. I want a terrain detail on both sides of the square so that it can be flipped over and used as a different piece. On a 6'x4' playing surface that would give me 24 tiles to alternate from. Some could be craters, trenches, lakes or ponds, one long river piece going through it, or a variable dirt terrain on one side and a lava or ice world on the other side. Its something to think about. The pieces could be pulled out and flipped, rotated and rearranged to change the battle board.

The Corvis table used at PAX is a prime example of a modular terrain board: http://www.penny-arcade.com/2011/09/13/corvis-table
http://www.instructables.com/id/Warmachine-Gaming-Table-for-Penny-Arcade/

http://www.instructables.com/image/FH7O2AMGSYEQD5A/Warmachine-Gaming-Table-for-Penny-Arcade.jpg


I could even paint the bottom inside of the table green or use sand paper sheets and glue them down then color them for a third option for the board.

I have too many ideas and little time to do them all in! I need to focus!

Rogue Wolves wrote:im a bit angry because it seems that when ever i subscribe to this it never goes through so then i dont visit it because i assume it is with all my subed ones, but now that i found it again it better work because i do love what you have going here, some nice guardsmen indeed

Welcome back Rogue! Please take a deep breath and go find a Yoga studio, I prefer Bikram Yoga, but you should find the style that suits you. Then go to a class. I generally find that hot, sweaty college aged girls who are very bendy make for great stress relief.

All that aside, Thank you! I'm really trying to do these Mordians and Space Wolves up right. Lots of work has been done and I've uploaded well over 150 images of some of my older models today into the Space Wolves Photo Gallery:
http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/images-50179-22471_Space%20Wolves.html

I'd post the pics here, but I think that would fill up this forum way too much. I do need to work on them and update them to my current paint scheme/style. These are some of the models I gave to a friend to hold almost 5 years ago and that I'm slowly getting back or finding in my parents garage.

Those Space Wolves are looking sweet, and you have painted them so quickly! Great work man!

Flying Pooo wrote:Those Space Wolves are looking sweet, and you have painted them so quickly! Great work man!

Thank you Pooo! I have to admit those are some older models of mine, lol. But, Thank you!

Here are a few conversions:

Those AOBR Sace marines are some awesome kit-bashes they look great! I also like those SM Calvary. Nice Rhino and Razorback too!

Flying Pooo wrote:Those AOBR Sace marines are some awesome kit-bashes they look great! I also like those SM Calvary. Nice Rhino and Razorback too!

Thank you! I'm a big sucker for kit bashes and getting the most out of the most basic of models. That SM Cavalry will double as my Thunder Wolves Cavalry, Space Wolves on Horses.

If you look closely, thats four different Rhino/Razorbacks The top of each comes off to become a Razorback.

Looking awesome

So it is 2 Rhinos and 2 Razorbacks! This defiantly shows how unobservant I am.
Some of those SW look a little shiny, maybe you should try using a thin coat of matt varnish to take of some of that shine.
Ignore this if it was just the lighting playing tricks as they are some really nice minis!