Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you:
No adverts like this in the forums anymore.
Times and dates in your local timezone.
Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance.
Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely.
Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net.
If you are already a member then feel free to login now.
paulson games wrote:Decided to go ahead with what looks cool, might generate some crybabies because they couldn't see a guy or forgot to move their mans, but for that I say chin up sissy boy sometimes the hulk works against you, and if you forget your guy better luck next time.
The top will be optional and also fully removeable in case peopel have a hard time seeing things.
Hehe, gaming the hardcore way... I like it.
Good to see you're going to build your tiles from scratch. That way it'll be ALL yours. (Plus, you won't get into IP trouble when someone inevitably walks up and says "How much would it cost me if you make me one too?" and actually means it.)
I think you could reduce the aligment problems even more by not making individual tiles, but but lengths of corridor instead. That way, if there is an inaccuracy in size of the tile, there will be less repeats. (Not picking nits, just trying to help you get the most out this project. I really like what you're doing.)
Modhail
Exploring the dark, twisting corridors of =I=Munda... Dare you follow?
this is pretty amazing love it when someone takes something to the next level
95% of teens would go into a panic attack if the jonas brothers were about to jump off the empire state building copy and paste this if you are the 5% who would pull up a lawn chair grab some popcorn and yell JUMP BITCHES!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Witch Hunters: Just another excuse to wear cool hats.
DA:90-S+G+M+B++I+Pw40k07-D+A+/eWD-R++T(Pic)DMT
Armies: Soon to be 1500 Pts & "There's no problem a nice jab with a power stake won't solve." ~ Unknown
"When in doubt, ask the Emperor for guidance. If that fails, kill all of them with a heavy flamer." ~ from 'The Inquisitor's Guide to Gardening in the 41st Millenium'
92% of teens have moved on to rap. If you are one of the 8% who still listen to real music, copy and paste this into your sig.
I've always enjoyed Space Hulk and yes, I've preordered mine here in the US. BUT, it has always been something of a mystery to me as to why any game I've ever seen played is ALWAYS single level. I'm curious to see the new "ladder up/down" in the new rules.
One way I've done a multilevel game using the Space Hulk tiles is to make additional levels with sheets of plexiglass supported about twelve inches above the bottom (table level). We did a 4 level game one time that was a lot of fun.
I think the flat single level classic Space Hulk really misses out on some wild game play by not having multi-levels. Hard enough as the SM player with blips all around, but even hairier when they are above and below you too!
Or you could post them in a gallery here on dakka for free. Dakka rocks for posting pics.
Logan's Great Company Oh yeah kickin' and not even bothering to take names. 2nd company 3rd company ravenguard House Navaros Forge world Lucious & Titan legion void runners 314th pie guard warboss 'ed krunchas waaaaaargh This thred needs more cow bell. Raised to acolyte of the children of the church of turtle pie by chaplain shrike 3/06/09 Help stop thread necro do not post in a thread more than a month old. "Dakkanaut" not "Dakkaite" Join the Church of the Children of Turtle Pie To become a member pm me or another member of the Church
migsula wrote:Argh - can't see the pics - recommend DAKKA GALLERIES! Free and reliable.
This.
You can also use Imageshack, that's pretty reliable... but the Dakka gallery is not only free, but right here on this very site (durrr!) so it's even easier
Dakka Galleries would mean I would be able to see the images now. [/Sad panda.]
Adepticon 2015: Team Tourney Best Imperial Team- Team Ironguts, Adepticon 2014: Team Tourney 6th/120, Best Imperial Team- Cold Steel Mercs 2, 40k Championship Qualifier ~25/226
More2010-2014 GT/Major RTT Record (W/L/D) -- CSM: 78-20-9 // SW: 8-1-2 (Golden Ticket with SW), BA: 29-9-4 6th Ed GT & RTT Record (W/L/D) -- CSM: 36-12-2 // BA: 11-4-1 // SW: 1-1-1
DT:70S++++G(FAQ)M++B++I+Pw40k99#+D+++A+++/sWD105R+++T(T)DM+++++ A better way to score Sportsmanship in tournaments The 40K Rulebook & Codex FAQs. You should have these bookmarked if you play this game.
The Dakka Dakka Forum Rules You agreed to abide by these when you signed up.
DR:70+S+G-MB-I+Pwmhd05#+D++A+++/aWD100R++T(S)DM+++ Get your own Dakka Code!
"...he could never understand the sense of a contest in which the two adversaries agreed upon the rules." Gabriel Garcia Marquez, One Hundred Years of Solitude
I found the old GW website, and there they have a tutorial on making a three dee space hulk through using pipes, though, I think yours is more suited to the new space hulk, you may want to make a memorial of your first game of space hulk, win or loss, by creating a scene depicting the triumph or fall through the retro styles of this, Just my opinion.
Here is the page
KILL TEAM SPACE HULK TERRAIN
You don't need fancy terrain to play with the Kill Team Space Hulk modifications, but it helps. Building 3D Space Hulk terrain for your Kill Team missions is not as complicated as it might seem at first. All it takes is a little forethought and the right materials, and you'll have some cool modular terrain for your games.
You can get a good sense of how to do this type of terrain from Mike McVey's awesome diorama that appeared on the inside cover of the 2nd Edition Space Hulk Rulebook (one of those pictures is shown right). You are trying to accomplish a three-dimensional cross-section of the Hulk that's still playable.
On the next few pages, we'll show you how to build this type of terrain.
Step 1 Vinyl gutter joints come in all shapes and sizes, and they cost less than $5 USD each. We found a drain drop joint that would work great as a compartment with three entry points. What's more, vinyl is fairly easy to work with (though it can warp a bit when it's manufactured – try to pick straight pieces). As you can see in the pictures above, the side wall of the drain will serve as your compartment floor. Mark off a line where the "overhang" of the gutter starts to curve up dramatically. You want to clear enough room for you to reach in and place models on the section while maintaining the feel of a room.
Step 2 Following the mark you just made, cut off the overhang with your cutting tool. You can use a variety of cutting tools to accomplish this step, from a hack saw to a band saw. Regardless of the tool you employ, make sure you take the necessary precautions (kids, ask your folks for help). We used a Dremel rotary tool with a disc cutting tool attachment – it took a while, but it worked just fine. Also cut off the small U-shaped connectors on the floor of the room.
Step 3 Crochet grid is great for 40K grating – the only problem is that primer won't always stick to it right off the shelf. We found that a good scrubbing with soap and water eliminated this problem (they must use a releasing agent when they make it). With a permanent marker, delineate the room section area on the grid. Cut out this area with scissors.
Step 4 Now that you have the crochet grid cut out, it can serve as a floor template while you work. Center it over the floor of the room with the middle entry point lined up in the "doorway" like shown in the image above. Mark off the edges on the gutter drain with a permanent marker.
Step 5 With your cutting tool, cut off the edges of the room along the lines you made. While you're at it, remove the screw brackets from the floor of the room so it lies flat on the tabletop.
Step 6 Though you could leave the rectangular frame around the doorway, it will make moving models nearly impossible when you play games. Remove this frame with your cutting tool.
Step 7 There are several building materials you can use for doorways, but the ones we thought would work best are gutter C-clamps like those shown above. They look like cross-sections of doorways, have a built-in "door control" recess, and won't block model movement. You can get these for about $1 USD each.
Step 8 Glue these to the floor of the room section with super glue. Make sure you use your crochet grid as a guide on how far back along the floor to place them.
Step 9 Find some 2" wall vents like those above. You can get a six-pack for about $5 USD. The ones we found had a slightly rough texture to the plastic, which will be ideal for drybrushing later.
Step 10 The vents are probably going to be too deep, so you'll need to cut down the back ring so it's only 1/4" deep. Use your cutting tool to cut off this ring like shown above.
Step 11 Glue one of the trimmed-down vents on the back-right angled wall with super glue. Cut two lengths of plasticard 4-mm pipes to serve as Hulk plumbing. You'll have to angle your cuts on both sides so each will press flat against the door frame while not extending past the border of the floor, either. Glue these tubes in place under the vent. Add the handle bit from the Dwarf Bolt Thrower in the Warhammer range (file off the Dwarf icon, of course) as a plumbing valve to finish this wall's details.
Step 12 Just like the last step, attach two parallel plasticard pipes. This time, place them vertically just next to the doorway you glued down before. Attach another handle from the Dwarf Bolt Thrower. One last bit of plumbing: add a pipe over the doorways to cover the overhang cut.
Now for the engineering panel. Cut out a 5 cm x 4 cm section from a 1-cm grid sheet of plasticard to serve as the backdrop. For the metal bitz, just attach them in a pattern that looks mechanical – we grabbed bitz from the Dwarf Flame Cannon and Bolt Thrower (minus any Dwarf imagery that we filed off). To fill in the empty area at the bottom of the panel, cut out a small square of V-grooved plasticard to look like a ventilation grate. Once all this dries, glue the entire engineering panel to the wall.
Make the door controls from thin plasticard and place them in the slots in the doorways you glued down before. Cut out two thin plasticard triangles, glue them to a square of thin plasticard, and glue the square to the door from the backside so the triangles fit in the slot.
Step 13 You'll need some structure to lift the deck grating off the floor to clear the doorways and look more like an actual Hulk. We found the perfect thing: the covers you put over fluorescent light panels. Find the one that looks like the picture above (the one we got was called "white egg crate"). It should measure about 1/4" in depth. You can get a 2' x 4' sheet of this material for about $5 USD.
Step 14 Lay your crochet template over the lighting grid so the grid will provide the most support and mark off this area. Cut out this section from the lighting grid with sprue clippers – be careful, this stuff can go flying. Place the lighting grid on your room floor and see where you have to trim it to get it to fit and cut it down to fit between all the doorways.
Step 15 Once you're satisfied with the lighting grid fit, glue it down to the floor with super glue. If your gutter drain has a slight bend to it, you can use the grid to correct for this by applying weight to it while it dries (you'll need at least 18 lbs.). You'll need a lot of glue to get the grid to force the vinyl flat.
There you have it, a Space Hulk compartment ready for paint. Don't glue down the crochet grid just yet – you'll have a much easier time painting without it in place. Just make sure it lines up right for now.
Step 1 Vinyl gutters are great for this project – you can get 12' of it for about $5 USD, and that length will last you a while. Plus, it's fairly easy to work with (though it can warp a bit). For this corridor section, we measured out the length of a 5-square Space Hulk board section (with 40-mm squares for the new Terminators). Decide on an appropriate length and mark it with a permanent marker.
Step 2 Next, cut off that length of gutter. You can use a variety of cutting tools to accomplish this step, from a hack saw to a band saw. Regardless of the tool you employ, make sure you take the necessary precautions (kids, ask your folks for help). We used a Dremel rotary tool with a disc cutting tool attachment – it took a while, but it worked just fine.
Step 3 As you can see in the pictures above, the side wall of the gutter will serve as your corridor floor. To finish with the cutting, mark off a line where the "overhang" of the gutter starts to curve up dramatically. You want to clear enough room for you to reach in and place models on the section while maintaining the feel of a corridor. Cut off this overhang with your cutting tool.
Step 4 Crochet grid is great for 40K grating – the only problem is that primer won't always stick to it right off the shelf. We found that a good scrubbing with soap and water eliminated this problem (they must use a releasing agent when they make it). With a permanent marker, delineate the board section area. Obviously, the picture above shows a room section, but the same technique applies to the corridor sections.
Step 5 You'll need some structure to lift the deck grating off the floor to clear the doorways and look more like an actual Hulk. We found the perfect thing: the covers you put over fluorescent light panels. Find the one that looks like the picture above (the one we got was called "white egg crate"). It should measure about 1/4" in depth. You can get a 2' x 4' sheet of this material for about $5 USD.
Step 6 Cut out the crochet grid area you marked out before with scissors. Lay this section over the lighting grid so the grid will provide the most support and mark off this area. Cut out this section from the lighting grid with sprue clippers – be careful, this stuff can go flying. You'll likely have to trim down your lighting grid section to make room for the doorways, but you can do that later.
Step 7 There are several building materials you can use for doorways, but the ones we thought would work best are gutter C-clamps like those shown above. They look like cross-sections of doorways, have a built-in "door control" recess, and won't block model movement. You can get these for about $1 USD each.
Step 8 To give this corridor section a nicely infested look, we decided that we were going to cover the walls with what can best be described as Tyranid "creep." Pretty much every Tyranid in the range has some bio-mechanical ribbing on it, and we wanted to incorporate that look here. If you just want a regular corridor, skip our Tyranid infestation steps. If not, find some 1/2"-diameter electrical cord tubing like that shown above. Cut off about a 5" length of this tubing and cut this section in half lengthwise to get two hemispherical 5" sections.
Step 9 Time to start bringing all this stuff together. Glue the doorways on the edges of the corridor floor with super glue. Depending on how far back you cut the overhang, you'll have to push the doorways in and force the gutter to accommodate them – it will bend into shape. If that's the case, add some glue to where the door and the gutter meet. Once the doorways dry, trim down your lighting grid section to fit between the doorways. Glue the grid down with super glue – if your gutter has a slight bend to it, you can use the grid to correct for this by applying weight to it while it dries (you'll need at least 10 lbs.). Next, glue in the tubing halves to the back wall of the corridor with super glue.
Step 10 Find some 2" wall vents like those above. You can get a six-pack for about $5 USD. The ones we found had a slightly rough texture to the plastic, which will be ideal for drybrushing later.
Step 11 The vents are probably going to be too deep, so you'll need to cut down the back ring so it's only 1/4" deep. Use your cutting tool to cut off this ring like shown above.
Step 12 Glue one of the trimmed-down vents to the center of the back wall with super glue.
Step 13 Time to bulk out the Tyranid infestation with Apoxie Sculpt putty from Aves Studio (though you can do this step with any epoxy putty, including green stuff). Use your imagination and go for the corrupted organic look – just make sure you incorporate the tubing you glued in before.
Step 14 Do this step before the putty dries. Don't glue it down just yet, but lay down the crochet grid to make sure your putty work won't block it. You can make a few infestation tendrils stop right at the edge of the grid. This way, after you paint everything and glue the grid down, you can extend the tendrils over the grid with green stuff and paint them to give the scenery more depth and enhance the "eww" effect.
Step 15 You're almost done. Get some plasticard 2-mm square rod and cut it into three sections. Two should be about 1" in length – place these on the floor of each doorway to support the crochet grid that overlaps the doorways. The other will serve as the handrail. Measure it out, cut it down, and glue it between the doorways with super glue. Make the door controls from thin plasticard and place them in the doorway slots provided. Cut several lengths of plasticard pipes of varying diameter to serve as Hulk plumbing and glue them to the deck and over the doorways to cover the overhang cut. Add a couple of metal bitz from the Dwarf Flame Cannon and Bolt Thrower in the Warhammer range (file off any Dwarf icons, of course) to get the plumbing valves and the like. Ta-da: Space Hulk corridor ready for paint!
Again, don't glue down the crochet grid just yet – you'll have a much easier time painting without it in place.
If I had a dollar for every dollar I spent I'd have all my money back. [url=http://s1.zetaboards.com/New_Badab/index/]
[/url]
Exploring the dark, twisting corridors of =I=Munda... Dare you follow?
1000pts 
1500pts
& 
Logan's Great Company Oh yeah kickin' 
and not even bothering to take names. 
2nd company 
3rd company ravenguard 
House Navaros 
warboss 'ed krunchas waaaaaargh This thred needs more cow bell. 
[/url]
