Forum adverts like this one are shown to any user who is not logged in. Join us by filling out a tiny 3 field form and you will get your own, free, dakka user account which gives a good range of benefits to you: No adverts like this in the forums anymore. Times and dates in your local timezone. Full tracking of what you have read so you can skip to your first unread post, easily see what has changed since you last logged in, and easily see what is new at a glance. Email notifications for threads you want to watch closely. Being a part of the oldest wargaming community on the net. If you are already a member then feel free to login now.

Redbeard wrote:Exactly what SparkeyG said. You put a pin into the model's bases, and they'll never come off

Where does the pin stick to though? the hole 's depth is only as thick as the base's material isnt it?

I'll take some pics and show you when I get to that point. But, it goes into one of the model's feet, and into the base, where ever seems most appropriate.

Me likes...

Oh man, the anticipation of painted models is killing me!

It's going to be a while before they're painted. I'm working on assembling them all at the moment. Take a while because I'm magnetizing all the options for all the heavy & special weapon troopers, and the champions.

Ah well, if it has to be done, it has to be done.

So, I spent the last week or so working on assembling the marines. (terminators are next, including typhus & obliterators).

One thing I did with this army is set it up so that my weapon options can be changed from game to game, with magnets. For the most part, I'm using 1/8th inch round magnets from KJ Magnetics. It's a good size for doing arm swaps with, as they fit easily in the shoulders of men, and it's easy enough to get holes drilled to the right size.

One thing to note, if you decide to do this, is that you don't want to just drill a 1/8th" hole in your part, you want to work up to that size, which gives you a lot more control. I run through five different drill bits before I get to the final size.



Also, when drilling the bodies of marines (where you have a different front and back plate), you're better off gluing the heads and torsos on before you drill, because the drill can separate the two halves of the body if you're not careful. Using the legs and head for additional stability goes a long way to preventing this.

Here are some of my Havocs in the drilling stage:



And some of the multiple arms that will end up connected:




Anyhow, I've just about finished the power armoured men now. I ran out of my Death Guard shoulder pads, so I'm waiting for a new shipment of those. I'm also going to go back through, after I finish the terminators, and add random bits of fluffyness to models that look like they need it.

Here are the (nearly) finished units:

Seven Chosen:



Three of these guys are set to take flamers, meltas, plasmaguns, or power swords. The champion can swap out a plasma pistol or boltpistol, and a powerfist. power weapon, or chainsword.

Seven Bikers:



The two special weapon guys can have flamers or meltas, and the champ can have a powerfist, power weapon, or chainsword.

Ten Havocs:



I've got four heavy bolters, four missile launchers, two lascannons and two autocannons to play with. These work with the Chaos Space Marine squad as well.

Ten Chaos Space Marines:



Special weapon man, heavy weapon man (can also use specials), and champ can swap weapons.

Plague Marine units:










Each squad can run two of any special weapon option. The ten man squad can pretend to be Chaos Space Marines and take one of the heavy options too, if they so choose.

One neat thing is that the whole army is magnetized with the same polarity, so arms from any model can be used on any of the other magnetized men. I could set up a unit running around with all plasma pistols if I wanted to (but why?)

You, my friend are truly awesome. I love The Cleaved and when done properly, they are amazing.

WOW.. very coolness.

Great progress! Looking forward to more!

Same here.

WTB Nurgled Bane Wolf x 3

I worked on my Land Raider last night and tonight. I took a bunch of photos, because I want to describe the thought process that goes into this.


First, a couple of pictures of tools.

This is a miniature side cutting bit for a rotary tool. It is invaluable for removing emblems, as the next few pictures will show.



This is my newest addition to my workshop. It's a simple footswitch that can be used with any powertool. You plug it into the wall, then plug the tool into it, and it works by shutting the power to the tool off unless you're pressing the footswitch down. Really simple. I got this over the weekend, and it's already been worth the money. I use it with my dremel. When working on plastic, the dremel can spin fast enough to melt the plastic. This not only lets me stop the bit to clean it off faster, but helps prevent the heat build up by working in short bursts. I know that turning a tool on or off is not the hardest thing in the world to do, but it's hard to explain how useful being able to do that with a footswitch is. Perhaps mentioning that dentists, who use these sorts of rotary tools for working on people's teeth, use them with these footswitches, will help convey it. It just adds an extra degree of control.



On to the actual work on the Land Raider.

I started by cutting the tips off the heavy bolter barrels and lascannons, so I could replace them with the chaos head bits:



While I was working on this, I decided that I wanted to lower the profile on the heavy bolters too. I took out the center pivot, and used a razor saw to cut off the bottom of the heavy bolter bodies, and the ammo feed, and glued this directly to the mounting disc.



This lets it sit in the gun housing position with the top shield below the Land Raider's hull, rather than jutting out over it. It's a small thing, but I like it.



And, don't forget to drill out the newly attached chaos barrel tips.



Next, it was time to remove Imperial details. This is done primarily with the dremel bit pictured above, and then smoothed over by scraping with the back of a hobby knife.

No Crux Terminatuses on the side:



No Mechanicus skull on the engine block:



While doing this, I considered the look of the Forgeworld doors that I'd bought. They come with buboes and pustules on them. I'm okay with that look on daemons, and on plague marines - they're living creatures, and so it makes sense to get diseased like that. I'm even okay with that look on defilers and dreadnoughts. But not so much on tanks. Nurgle is the god of decay and rot and disease, but metal doesn't catch diseases, it rots by rusting. I'm not a fan of the tentatcles-and-slime Nurgle aesthetic on non-possessed vehicles, and I intend to rust and rot out all my tanks pretty good instead. Not only that, but it doesn't make sense to have pustules on the doors, and no where else on the vehicle. So, that said, I set to work removing them. I saved as many of the larger ones as I could for using on some dreadnought arms.

Here are the doors, without pustules:






I then set to magnetizing the side lascannons. I did this by putting 1/8th" magnets into the top and bottom sponson plates, and then putting 1/16th" magnet into the mounting pillar. This serves three purposes. First, it allows me to remove the guns for storage, so the model will take less space in the foam. Second, it allows me to remove the guns to paint the hull behind them, and to paint the guns separately. Finally, on the off chance that some future chaos codex will allow chaos marines the intelligence to stick flamers on the sides of their land raiders, I'll be all set to buy a bitz sprue and use it. Unlikely, but if it happens, great.



Next up, I decided that the exhaust stacks for the engine looked too clean, and so I went and replaced them with yet another set of the chaos head bits:



Once the engines were replaced, it was time to attach the sides.



I then went in and added some of the chaos accessories. I'm not really a big fan of the iron-wrought fencing look on chaos tanks, but adding a couple of rows next to the front door hides the ugly top door post. I also figured that a set of spikes around the pintle-mounted gun would make some sense.



I went with the Chaos tracks from Forgeworld too. I'm pretty OCD about not having Imperial Eagles on my chaos tanks.



A few chaos stars and Nurgle icons here and there, with some skulls too, just to prove it's a GW model. Also, it's a little hard to tell from that picture, but the smokestack head's mouths have been drilled out. Important to have a way for the smoke to get out.



I topped the sponsons with the last of the chaos head bits, figuring they'll serve as smoke launchers. I went with the lascannons in the forward position, because this just makes more sense to me. If the guys want to get out the front, they use the assault ramp. If they want to get out the side, they don't want a couple of big lascannons pointing at their heads. This is the configuration on the pre-heresy model too.




So, this is where it's at now. I'm going to finish building all the tanks, and then go back through and add some combat damage and weathering before priming them, but I want to do that all at the same time, so for now, it's on to the rhinos.

I finished the base construction of all the vehicles in the army today. I need to go back over all the vehicles and add weathering and damage effect, but the construction (and magnetizing) is all done. Like the Land Raider, many small touches went into all of these, from the removal of all Imperial designs (Eagles and the like), replacement of smokestacks with chaos heads, and the like...

Predator:



Configurable with either sponson or turret option.




Vindicator:



Rhinos. These all have magnets installed next to the hatch, to allow the inclusion of upgrade weapons (Havok launchers, or combi-weapons). I took the time to trim all the pustules off the doors, saving as many as possible for fixing up other things. Also went with the spiky bits to protect the hatch here as well:




The Dreadnoughts, one of each Forgeworld Nurgle variant:





I also wanted to be able to run them with 2x CCW, but Forgeworld doesn't sell a right-handed nurgle option, so this is where the pustules that I removed from the rhino door got used. I carved out some places and glued the pustules on in others so that this matched the rest of the dread.



Finally, I had a nurgle soul grinder with a magnetized top half, and the parts to make it a defiler too, so I did that. All the weapon options are supported:





Time spent to this point: 100 hours

Wow. Loving your work.

I'm a sucker for FW too.

Enough win ?

Its amazing how organized you are. Its a good thing for a newcomer to the hobby like me to see.
Cant wait to see some painted stuff and no doubt this army will be done before I even finish the rest of tactical marines!
Oh and I'll let you off for having a traitor scumbag army because you watch the Wire!!!!
All in the game

Excellent work on the vehicles! Very cohesive look, even without any paint on them. I especially like the spike-rings you used for cupola/hatch protection. Great addition.

Better make rules for Blight Shells for the Vindacator

You know that the razor back lascannons work better and they fit the Defilers gun platform

Didn't have any of those. I did have a spare set of Land Raider lascannons, so that's what I used...

Sometimes, you just work with what you've got.

Im gonna have to wait a very long time to see some paint on them .......

Very nice start!

Okay, question...

What do people think about the idea of stowage on Chaos Space Marine tanks?

A lot of people add stowage details to IG tanks, but it's something rarely seen on Marine or Chaos vehicles.

Perhaps it's because Marines are generally considered to act more like a strike force than a campaigning army, but if you're out in the world for more than a few days, you run the risk of running out of ammo or fuel.

I've got a few boxes, barrels, and other stowage pieces from various sources and I'm considering adding them all in here. Any opinions on that?

Stowage as fuel tank, i dont like that idea , as it could be powered by chaos demons if fuel runs out.

However , if you make the stowage piece like toxic or radioactive , then very yes . Nurgle would welcome them right away!

:O

Wow. I'm excited. I'll be watching this one.

Im with Lunahound on this one.


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Howabout making a resuply tanker and ammo carrier?

I say go for it.
Theyre still a military force like any other. They need ammo and other supplies as well. Maybe not food or anything, but yanno, spare parts and stuff.

That, or like Luna said, toxic canisters to spread disease

Here are some pictures of the tanks, with stowage added, and some battle damage added (not the easiest to always make out on all-grey plastic).

For the stowage, I used some IG pieces, plus some WWII stuff, and some plasticard to make restraining bolts, with pins for bolts. I've got some spare tracks on some of the vehicles, some extra ammo for the pred, fuel and ammo boxes on the rhinos. It's nice to think that you could get the daemons of the warp to fuel your vehicle, but the warp is a fickle place, and I think a prepared military force would make sure they weren't stranded without petrol just in case the daemons didn't show...

nice, very nice