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Something i'm going to try, don't know how great this will be, but 'lead putty' that you can pick up from most fishing shops, just mould a bit under the base (assuming it'll stick there) i've found it's pretty damn heavy for the amount you use, but it could be a bit more expensive than using coins or some of the other methods suggested

I've used 1/16" lead flashing available in big rolls for cheap at any big box DIY store (Lowes, Home Depot, Etc.) Its about as heavy you can get and with decent set of shears you can do a whole army.

I save money by casting my miniatures out of solid gold. It's plenty heavy on it's own.

Defacing currency is not against the law. Writing on bills and cutting up coins is not against the law which is why there is no money police to really enforce this. But, when you think about it, why would there be coin presses at the amusement parks that deface a penny at the price of 50 cents?

Economy-wise, this would not be good. Why? Because every penny, nickle or dime that is not circulated through the system is considered a loss to the economy. It's not increasing or decreasing in value but considered a loss (especially to your pocket). The government pays to make coins and that is taken from our taxes. Thus, the government needs our money to make more money. Money placed in banks are moved to retail owners via loans which in turn make profits which go back to banks. Money circulated is money earning more money. Resulting in a better economy. If a gamer uses 100 pennies for his army and there are 50 gamers ($50) that do that per state (50), we are looking at over $2500 dollars that is stagnant in our economy. Not alot in a contry of over 300 million legal citizens but still a hefty price to pay to weigh down your figures.

Ifurita wrote:I used a pair of metal shears to cut pennies in half and glue them into the slotta bases.

I've done this before with old 5p's it works well!

i use all the spare pennys i get in my change sumtimes even nickels O:

Double cheeseburgers !!

Any small metal bearings glued on the hollow underside always works well. If its a large based model I enjoy making the terrain on the base help towards it. a well placed small chunk of stone that your models climbing over works well if its a tall model needing more weight on the base.

I do like unites modelling clay idea.

The modelling clay filling the base sounds like a good idea... with a piece of metal covering it.

I'm thinking of using Morghur on a smaller base as a Bray-Shayman, and so I would definitely need to weigh it down. Thanks for the tips!

Tungsten powder is another option I've seen used.

http://www.amazon.com/Golfsmith-Tungsten-Powder-Pound/dp/B0000BYNW7

It's used to increase weight in golf clubs. Just mix some up with your favorite two part epoxy and fill your bases up!

I have personally used fishing weights smashed flat with a pair of pliers. Super cheap at Wal Mart.

I've recently been experimenting with 'Steel Sand' available from;
http://www.reloadingspecialtiesinc.com/Reloading_Specialties_Inc/Reloading_Specialties.html
about $10 for a 10 pound bag.
It's ferrous so I can use magnets to hold my figures.

After I fill the base (and let the glue dry), I coat the bottom of the base with 'Plasti Dip', a synthetic rubber.
This gives the figure a nice grip.

steel/zinc washers $0.14 per from Lowe's and every time I switch to a new army I pop them off the old bases and onto new ones.

I often have extra Green Stuff or other Epoxy's left over after doing conversions so I put the extra in the bottom of any troublesome minis

GS and lead shot (can be cheaply bought from you local fishing tackle shop or even your supermarket!)

Paint the inside of the base with PVA glue.

Pour in lead ballast shot.

http://www.leadshotballast.co.uk/

When dry, fill and seal the base with either Plastic Padding chemical metal, or polyurethane resin.

http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_categoryId_165691_productId_209003_langId_-1?cm_mmc=Shopping-_-Google%20Product%20Search-_-Body+Repair%2FTapes+%26+Glues-_-Plastic+Padding+Chemical+Metal+560ml&source=shopping&istCompanyId=b8708c57-7a02-4cf6-b2c0-dc36b54a327e&istItemId=lilxaq&istBid=t

I generally do all this at the start of a new bunch of models, because it is easier to fill bases when they are lying flat.

well I use blu tak and 2p coins. It may raise the height a bit, but I don't play tournies so i figure "so what."

Defacing coins USED to be illegal in the UK but isn't anymore.

Modelling clay is good.
SHAME ON YOU PENNY-CHOPPERS! YOU DESTROYED THE ECONOMY! SELFISH, SELFISH YOU!

Actually, i used 1p coins on my banner/icon bearers, so...

Defacing coins is only illegal in sovereign states. It is illegal to deface the monarch's image. I would recommend air dry clay or similar cheap putty.

Reasonably funny nonspirational posting.

However TromNek's reopening of this thread with a new and usefull suggestion is an excellent example of when it's a good idea to reopen an old thread rather then starting a redundant second thread.

I use a pair of metal shears and cut pennies in half.

White metal bases. These are from well-used mould. I keep trying to find time to do some new ones.

I just superglue pennies into the underside of the base, camoflages the pennies and adds a nice weight to the model.

For larger bases I tend to use 2p coins or even multiple 1p coins for huge ones.

Arander wrote:The penny/nickel trick won't really work for me, as a good portion of my army uses the slotta bases...

You could take these things that are long flat stripes of magnet and use that to make magnetic bases! Or use Rocks or other heavy Stuff for Basing.