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I'm getting quite close to completing my ork army for Adepticon, but I want to add some weight to the bases so they stand up easier. The penny/nickel trick won't really work for me, as a good portion of my army uses the slotta bases and thus I can't fit a coin fully under the base.

What are some solutions that you've all used before? If I could find something that is ferrus (thus being able to attach to magnets) that would be even better.

Small ball bearings. I also used some lead shot once.

At my local Warhammer club on the underside of plastic figure bases we blutacked a penny on to them and it has worked well

Arander wrote:I'm getting quite close to completing my ork army for Adepticon, but I want to add some weight to the bases so they stand up easier. The penny/nickel trick won't really work for me, as a good portion of my army uses the slotta bases and thus I can't fit a coin fully under the base.

What are some solutions that you've all used before? If I could find something that is ferrus (thus being able to attach to magnets) that would be even better.

My nids use the slotta bases too, but what I noticed was that the plastic tab doesn't go all the way to the bottom of the slot, so I shaved enough off of the slot to get a penny to fit perfectly inside the base. Additionally, at a gaming auction I went to recently, I bought a bunch of nids who had thin ferrous metal washers attached to the bottom of them that were the exact diameter of the bases. He painted them black, and other than the 1/32" more that they stick up, you can't tell the difference. Plus they now stick to magnetized carrying trays.

daedalus wrote: Additionally, at a gaming auction I went to recently, I bought a bunch of nids who had thin ferrous metal washers attached to the bottom of them that were the exact diameter of the bases. He painted them black, and other than the 1/32" more that they stick up, you can't tell the difference. Plus they now stick to magnetized carrying trays.

This is a very good idea (assuming the people you play don't get too anal about the minuscule increase in height)

I use resin bases for my stuff and they always weigh it down.

I used a pair of metal shears to cut pennies in half and glue them into the slotta bases.

I have several metal models that had sprue pieces attached. With a little trimming, they fit in the slotted bases and help anchor the mini.

filbert wrote:This is a very good idea (assuming the people you play don't get too anal about the minuscule increase in height)

I had to pick one of the washers off to fix the zoanthrope, which fell off it's base and was a complete nightmare to get back on, btw. Side by side with the others, you'd have to look at them very intently to tell that one was taller than the other. Anyone who complained would get the sock full of quarters.

Myself I use small-size metal mats. One can buy those for almost nothing in any hardware shop and they are made in various sizes, so they can fit both halves of the slotta base.

Oddly enough, coins are always a better solution than washers, even if you plan on cutting them (as suggested using pennies). I say this, because most washers cost more than $0.05 each.

The shot isn't a bad idea, but make sure you know what gauge to purchase, otherwise the shot may not fit under the base very well. I've learned this through the experience of my roommate. Now we have a near-full bag of shot just sitting in the garage.

I use washers that fit exactly under the base. Dirt cheap but you will need to cut away the slotta underneath. It not too much trouble because it is plastic anyway. That or try to cut the washers. Cutting plastic versus metal, you decie which is easier...

Ifurita wrote:I used a pair of metal shears to cut pennies in half and glue them into the slotta bases.

You know it is technically illegal to do this correct? Just saying.

However. I have seen some people add some metal or rocky bits on top of the base for weight issues. It's usually with a larger metal independent character though.

Try blu-tac, it doesn't add very much weight though you can squeeze it an all the little spaces in adds at least some weight...

Try using steel shot for shotgun reloading

http://www.outdoorsmansupply.com/store/243_1169.asp

Its cheap, comes in 10 pound bottles and is ferrous so magnets will work on it.

The Bloody Handed God wrote:
You know it is technically illegal to do this correct? Just saying.

I believe it's only illegal if you deface currency then try to pass it off as legal tender, which I am certainly not doing. Just about ever tourist destination has machines where you can squeeze pennies into souvenir trinkets. Clearly they aren't breaking the law.

I use 5/8" washers glued flush with the bottom of a small round base. They prevent most instances of tippy Ork syndrome and add a little height to the base. They don't work nearly as well for weighty metals though.

I looked up whether it's illegal or not, but I couldn't really find any clear answers. I would just use washers, though, 'cuz you can buy in bulk and there's no possible legal problems.

I can't even begin to fathom where anybody in an authority would give a rat's ass about cutting up a few coins. Heck, I've seen governmen-run museums that have the machines that crush a penny into one thing or another. The defacing thing probably has something to do with counterfeiting. Besides, you could always say you're making a polical statement about the value of American Currency and hide behind the first amendment ala flag burning

I use washers though. Never crossed my mind to use coins. I be nickels probably would do a better job.

Lead shot for pellet guns, squeezed flat with pliers and krazy glued to the bottom.
3 or 4 per base depending on how 'out of balance' the model such as Hormogaunts and their tendency to fall forward.

500 pellets for about 5$ so it's pretty cheap.

Hope this helps,

Dark_Gear

For some I use sprew cut offs from metal figs for my fantasy army's I use square galvanized sheet steel pre cut to the bottom of the base size

Ifurita wrote:I used a pair of metal shears to cut pennies in half and glue them into the slotta bases.

I do the same but I use some tin snips. Basically the same thing, but it works. Tho I'ma have to find the link, a friend told me about a company that makes magnets to fit inside of bases. (slotted and un-slotted) I'll look around tomorrow after work and post it if someone doesn't beat me to it.

I feed my models pie for every meal and they soon put on weight.

SilverMK2 wrote:I feed my models pie for every meal and they soon put on weight.

damn you!

I tell mine they are useless then leave the biccy barrel in front of them!

or I use bits of metal flash underneath their bases or add stones to their bases, depends on the mini.

Can I suggest fishin weights? they are pretty heavy and small enough to fit under most bases if you bend them open

I did some looking around at work today and I can't find the magnets that are made for model bases. But I checked a couple sites that make/ship magnets and found a few that will sell ya magnets that will fit under them.
www.amazingmagnets.com is the only one I remember from work but they aren't hard to find.

I cut the slotta and slot out and use a penny. It's not super heavy, but it's adds a noticible heft and stability.

For slottas that are important or other odd basses, I glue on fishing weights. They come already mostly cut through the middle, so you can separate them and then flatten them with pliers and glue them on either side of the slot.

It's not ferrous, but I thought some folks might find it usefull.

Pennies (or nickels fit ROUND base weights perfectly; if you are rich lol); (note; I have tried the washer and slug idea, trying to find the right size and driving around is not worth the penny, or the nickel) Alternatively, they can be cut in two (just off-center) to fit in the underside of the slotted-bases.

Inexpensive Supplies

Tools (Purchased);
Dykes; or heavy-duty wire cutters; NOT Sprue-Cutters (sprue-cutters are expensive and will get damaged when trying to cut metal or wood). Example; http://www.xs11.com/forum/images/tips/20020902-floatpinremove.jpg

Scissors; crappy or inexpensive, you are not a seamstress, so $1 ones will do fine when cutting stuff, if you need a more precise cut, you should probably invest in a straight cutting table or use a blade and metal ruler.

Metal Ruler; often called a Drafting ruler. Uses; guiding a straight cut, and measuring.

Hibachi skewers; (made of Bamboo) cost about $1 for a bag of 50 at local grocery store, great for spiky defenses, and etc…

Place-mat for dinner table; (made of Bamboo and other wood slat items) good for fences when cut.

Supplies (Found);
Wire Hangers; from the dry-cleaners. I prefer the plastic coated ones. (Cut-out the straight area and save). Then find a drill-bit the same size. Uses; pinning large items, axles on vehicles, BANNER-POLES, etc… Alternatively, LARGE paper-clips.

Broom (Old); (house/kitchen) with long Nylon bristles. Depending on stiffness can be used as Spears, Lances, Antenna arrays, poles, cabling, and etc…

Stir-Sticks; wood, (NOT Popsicle, they are treated and can have a to-finished look). From Starbucks for free with a cup-o-Joe or a box from Smart and Final for about $5. Uses; as wood, for everything wood; floors, bridges, fences, and etc…

Cereal Box Cardboard; Save the front and back of the Cereal-box or GW box, etc. the cardboard is treated and very solid. Uses, a VERY inexpensive substitute for plastic-card.

Rocks and Gravel; from your neighbor’s driveway (I Keed, I keed) Uses; boulders, and etc…

Old Toys; from your closet, from a yard-sale, and etc. Uses; BITZ for Orky stuff, rubble terrain, machinery, and etc…

Chopsticks; (fast food for free) Uses; large wood poles, fencing, supports, and etc…

Wrapping paper rolls; (thicker ones) Pringles can, oatmeal can, etc.

Telephone DSL Cabling (wires); they have 4-12 different colored wires inside

This problem is very easy to solve

Simply find some modelling clay, I use this stuff in the UK

put some in the base

2p lots of them superglue them to the base

job done.