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If you are going to use Blood Claws, then you really need to stick a Wolf Priest with them to take advantage of the Preferred Enemy rule. Even so, you're going to want to take advantage of the size of the unit you can bring with the Blood Claws, which means that you will need a Land Raider Crusader.

So now, to make it worth while to bring the Blood Claws you have spent at least 225 on the 15 man unit, another 100 on the Wolf Priest, and an additional 275 on the Land Raider Crusader with extra armor and the multi-melta. So you now have a unit that costs 600 points to be effective. You really don't want to do that all in a 1000 point game.... So stick with the Grey Hunters!

Hmmmm. I will definatly consider what's been said here, I should be able to playtest both lists this Wednesday, I ll post battle report when I can for both. Thanks for the info.

Alright. Hope it all helps!

So I played a few games this last wednesday. I used the gray hunters after all. I think the general consensus was right, better to have the bolters than that extra attack. First game was against eldar and wraithguard. It was the I don't know my own rules game, so it could have been very different, especially since Njal turned himself inside out on turn two. (double perils of the warp.. stupid eldrad) I had a lot of bad dice rolling, and his was amazing. Except at one point, a whole unit of wraith guard with a seargent couldn't kill my lone powerfisting wolfguard. He made 11 3+ saves in a row before the 12th took him down. Only model in the entire list that got his points. Needless to say at that point that I lost that game, but it was at least a full 6 turns. I only was reminded about Njal's 3+ psychic defense after he died... game could have gone waaay different without fortune every turn.

Game two was against nids. I won this one, 3 objectives. He took two sporepodding sets of warriors, two squads of genestealers and a prime. He got the worst piece meal ever, turn two a single pod, turn three both squads of genestealers with one on the wrong side of the board, turn four, other squad of warriors and his prime(who walked on and rolled horrible for runs). By the time the second set of warriors game in i was flamering genestealers to the last, and the first set was long gone, killed a spore with a joww and the other got lascannoned. Only lost two rhinos, and a fourish other models. At the end of turn six game ended, he had a couple of stealers left from the long running squad and that was it.

Third game was a two on two 1000pts a piece. Guard and marines against my wolves and demonhunters. 3 objective game We only got to turn 4, but it was interesting. three grey hunters were holding up 400pts of marine bikes. my space wolves, full squad plus 2 from another rhino were mounding a hill two inches away from assualting a tiny guard retingent that thought they were going to hold an objective, and Njal and a lone grey hunter were holding our objective.

So overall the list worked ok, the third ended looking possibly ugly, Njal would have died pretty quick if those bikes finally took out the grey hunters, but it was a close game none the less. I think that I am going to change out the twin lascannon razorback, but not sure what for.... and Njal, his little weather power.... sounds so much more amazing than it is. I killed a couple of guard and two genestealer and a tyranid warrior... Can you field two rune priests for the same price? yes, but not as effective as he is. i think for this point value I ll change him out to one rune priest and spend the points elsewhere... maybe a long fang squad with missles. thanks again for the C&C on the list!

It seems like njal dies a lot in your games, or is going too... I suggest just takng a regular pries, he'll work wonders for less!

He only died in the first game against eldar, double perils of the warp because I used him incorrectly. The third was iffy but I think his fate was going to be sealed. There was three more grey hunters running to help him defend that objective, but I have no idea if they would have made it in time. His 'stormcaller' is not as nice in reality as on paper. It's just too counter intuitive for me to how I want to use him. Oh, another thing I kept forgetting all night, Nightwing being a choser of the slain, used it second game, first and third was forgotten.

Well, in case something screwing happens, I still am a firm fan of plain old runies. Ya cant help but love em!

Aldarionn wrote:

Asgeirr Darkwolf wrote:Yup. It's what I did, and it's worked well so far. You get something like 29 heads for 10 guys in the SW sprue! It's AMAZING!

53 heads actually, but some of them are intended for Scouts.

I build all of my infantry from Wolf Packs because I prefer to have no vanilla marine bits/shoulderpads/etc... on my figures, but that's just me. As for my Meltaguns/Combi-Meltas, I actually only bought one of each, and I replicated them multiple times via Greenstuff molds to save money, but not everyone is confident enough using Greenstuff to make that work.

When you say greenstuff, do you mean wrap it round te combi-melta to make a mold, the when you need more, fill the gs mold with more greenstuff to get more combi-meltas?

Just curious as I need about 10, but do not want to spend a wad of cash on them.

Plus, how do you stop it all getting stuck together?


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For the razorback, twin linked assault cannons might be good, 4 S6 shots with rerolls to hit and rending to wound.

I also sometimes use the old Lascannon and twin linked plasma gun turret for termie/ vehicle hunting


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I thought bloodclaws got 4 attacks on the charge, not 3- 1 basic, +1 for additional hand weapon +1 for charging +1 for berserk charge. Or am i reading the codex wrong?

dantay_xv wrote:
When you say greenstuff, do you mean wrap it round te combi-melta to make a mold, the when you need more, fill the gs mold with more greenstuff to get more combi-meltas?

Just curious as I need about 10, but do not want to spend a wad of cash on them.

Plus, how do you stop it all getting stuck together?

OK, please forgive the leingth of this post, and I apologize if I confuse you in the process, but I'll attempt to explain how this works as clearly as possible.

In order to cast pieces via a Greenstuff Mold, you essentially cast a piece with a top and bottom mold, then use those mold halves to press together around a ball of Greenstuff and form the piece. This is known as a "squish mold". To go about this you start by mixing up an amount of Green Stuff large enough to encase half of the piece you are casting and allow it to cure for about 20 minutes. Make sure the piece is a simple shape, as casting can be difficult for complex parts. Something like a Meltagun or a Combi-Melta is easy but a Cyclone Missile Launcher might be a little difficult.

Once the Greenstuff has cured for about 20 minutes, roll it out on a piece of wax paper or tinfoil. Be mindful of the thickness of the part you are casting and make sure the Greenstuff is thick enough to accept it. Once the Greenstuff is rolled out, lube the piece with some canola oil or petroleum jelly, then gently press it into the Greenstuff until it is halfway submerged. Use a sculpting tool to ensure the Greenstuff sits tightly up against the edge of the piece, and generally try to follow the existing mold lines (It helps to NOT clean the part you are casting, and leave any mold lines as they give you a reference for about where each half of the mold should sit). Once the piece is properly seated in the mold, cut the excess into a unique shape. This can be as simple as just cutting it onto square edges or cutting wedges out of the side. The reason for this is once the top half of the mold is created, the unique shape will ensure that the mold fits together properly every time you press it together. Let it cure for at least 3 or 4 hours. Greenstuff cures by heat action so you can improve the curing time by keeping it in a warm place, under a lamp or something similar.

Once cured, mix up another piece of Greenstuff about the same size and allow to cure for 20 minutes. Leave the piece inside the bottom of the mold and lube up the entire thing. Take the new piece of Greenstuff, roll it into a ball and press it down over the top of the piece firmly until the entire piece is covered. Ensure the top half of the mold takes on the shape of the bottom half as mentioned above (the reason for the unique shape). Allow the entire thing to cure over night. The next day pry the mold apart carefully (it could be tight), and pop the piece out (which could also be tight). If you have done this right you should have two halves of a mold that fit together perfectly with a hollow space in the middle the exact shape and size of the piece you want to cast. If there is any detail loss then something might have been done incorrectly and you may have to repeat the process. It DOES take practice!

To cast the new piece, roll up a ball of Greenstuff (pre-cured for 20 minutes like the others), and carefully press it into half of the mold. It may take time to work out exactly how much to use. Too much and you will end up with a lot of flash and a cast that's too thick because the mold won't press together all the way. Too little and you will end up with an incomplete mold. I usually roll several small balls of Greenstuff (about the size of BB's) and press them one at a time into the bottom half of the mold until it's full, then layer on as many as I used on top of that and press the mold halves together.

You need to lube the mold each time you cast a piece, and you need to allow it to cure at least 3 or 4 hours each time. The longer the better. You can adjust the amount of blue to yellow epoxy to allow the pieces to be more rigid or soft depending on what you prefer. I like more rigid pieces, so I mix it with more blue than yellow.

Anyway, I hope that explains what you are looking for. It's not a difficult process but it does take time to master, so do not get frustrated if your first few attempts turn out poorly. Just learn from the mistake and ask yourself what went wrong, and try to fix it the next time around. Good luck!

Thank you Aldarionn.

I will try it with something simple like a gun first, just to see how it goes.

I am also curious to try it on the very old scout backpacks as GW do not make them anymore and I have been making my scouts with SW torso's and i always loved the backpacks... I am about 3 short of another squad.

Thanks for the tips and sorry for the mini hi-jack of this thread