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Nicely done, good quick tute that looks the goods! thanks heaps for that, i'll give it a whirl on my next tank!

Put a pic up for me when you have so I can take a look.

Right chaps I tried this burn on my Vendetta today. This was a bit different for the engines as they are well I dunno it was not as simple. I put three washes of badab black on them as I felt they needed it.

CC?






Got a new camera to which I think is giving a better idea of how it looks.

This effect looks great! And I think it is even applicable to energy weapons. It wouldn't be as black, but discolored none the less by the heat.

Think of motorcycle exhaust pipes.

Thats the take I had with the destroyer. Them things would get silly hot when it fired.

Done the melta guns now. Did a more simplistic version for these as they are only small.

Awesome stuff. I love those PI helmets How hard was it to chop the Cadian heads from the special weapon troopers?

Quite a lot. Which is why most the special weapons are converted. Just to much effort for naff metal models.

Good to see how the effect looks on the smaller scale! I need to do this to a few models that are already done!

Where are those helmets from?

The heads are from pig iron productions.

Ive been painting a Baneblade and thought I would throw on a couple of pics now I have done its guns.









Note the tank itself is still WIP

Hope you all like it.

I love this effect. Exalted.

Thanks chap.

What does the Exalted option do?

I like the heat discoloration effect on the destroyer, and I've used a similar effect on flamers/energy weapons/exhaust, but I think it's out of place on projectile weapons. Things like a battle cannon would have the soot and some maybe some rust, but not the bronze-blue-purple discoloration. A gun barrel that got that hot would be pretty much useless. The effect itself is really well done though.

Great job, you have metallics and basic tank painting down to an art. I agree with some of the previous posters, you are to a place in your painting where weathering powders could bring a LOT to the table. Actually, there are several techniques used in historical modelling I think you might really enjoy, and would really add some depth you can't get with only acrylic paints. (again, I'm only mentioning all these options because you have tank painting DOWN)

I would highly recommend getting Imperial Armour Model Masterclass Vol.1, the ForgeWorld book. It focuses on exactly the kind of modelling/look you have achieved here, and I think you might get a lot out of it. I'll admit up front 90% of what I'm about to discuss I probably learned from that book.

Try rubbing some graphite on the ends of the barrel, I think you will be surprised at the result. The best way is to grind a pencil down on sand paper to get graphite powder and then apply it with your finger, but you can just rub the pencil itself on the edge if you want. Graphite is one of your most basic weathering powders and works great on metal.

You can make your own powders on the cheap using high quality pastel chalks. Just get some pastel chalks (not oil based ones) and grind them down by rubbing them on some sand paper. These work great for dirt, muck, or old rust as they don't grind as fine as professionally made powders, so they will leave a bit of texture. Even if you buy professionally made powders, pastel powders are great to use in conjunction to add variety.

MiG powders are supposed to be the best, but they can be a bit pricey (8$ per color 5-6$ if you get them in a pack). I think ForgeWorld powders are repackaged MiG powders. Vallejo powders are cheaper but have less pigment and are overall of lower quality. They are still great, just not AS great. Doc O'Brien self-adhesive powders are the cheapest of all, you can get a set of 12 for 25$. I hear they work pretty good, though they aren't pure pigment, and some people don't like the 'self-adhesive' additives, preferring to have more control.

With powders you want to lightly varnish first, then use the powders, then varnish again. You want to varnish before using them because you will probably be using some kind of thinner (alcohol, mineral spirits, terpentine, etc.) to 'set' the powders, and that can ruin an un-varnished paint job.

There are lots of techniques you can use with weathering powders. One of the coolest applications I think would have a great effect on your tanks is to mix rust powder with spirits, then flick it on the tank lightly from a brush/toothbrush. You then spray it with your setting agent (again, alcohol, thinner, terpentine, etc). This will break down most of the pigment and cause it to self/blend into the tank, and run just slightly, giving you an amazing rust effect.

Apply the powder with a dry with a brush into cracks, around wheels, etc. for rust/dust. Spray with alcohol to set, then varnish when your done weathering. If you mix it with thinner for mud. Mix it with water effect or gloss for thick, messy mud.

If you decide to use weathering powders try to have at least two colors for whatever effect you are trying to go for (two rusts, two muds, two dusts, etc.) Ever notice how women's makup compacts always have 3+ colors mixed, often intermingled in a pattern? That is to subtly break up the shading, which looks better. Same principle when applying powders.

One other technique to consider is oil washes, which I only recently started using (past two weeks). One of the nice things about them is they are applied during the same stage you would apply weathering powders (i.e. after varnishing your acrylic paint job) and you can use the same thinner for both, and seal them both together. Oil paints have much deeper and more complex coloration than acrylics. This isn't good or bad, but you can use the differences to your advantage. Oil paints also dry...oily. Imagine that? So they work GREAT for grease, fuel seepage and spearing, etc.

When made into a wash by thinning it with thinner (oil spirits, turpentine, you get the idea) it has some neat properties that differentiate it from acrylic thinners. Again, not saying they are better, just different, and you can take advantage of those differences. When really thin it LOVES cracks and crevices, it is like it has a mind of its own. For example, lots of tank models have grills or indents where two plates meet. Load up a brush with some thinned paint and touch it to the edge of one of these areas and it will practically jump in and spread throughout the cracks.

Another area oil washes are different than acrylic washes is on flat expanses, i.e. they don't pool up, so you can actually use them over large, flat areas. Oil paints in general are superior at gradients than acrylics because they take so long to dry.

Again, not saying any of these techniques are something you absolutely need to do, but you might enjoy them, and I think they would compliment your painting style well.

I do highly recommend Imperial Armour Model Masterclass Vol.1 though. It's fantastic.

Thanks chap. I will have to try catch a look at that book some time. Ive always stayed away from the powders through concern of messing up my tanks when varnishing them. I never varnish a models as I have seen some real cock ups as a side effect. Ill look into them though.

On the gun burn issue with the projectile weapons not getting that affect in real life. It was done more for the looks. Most modern tanks have burn resistant paint on them and are highly maintained. The imperial guard are basic most of the time and maintaining of weapons might not be to good. So I figured it gave them a nice neglected look.

Truffle wrote:Thanks chap.

What does the Exalted option do?

No bloody idea but it sounds good.

Ha

I love the scalding effect you've done on your Main Guns for those tanks. Only suggestions I could possibly offer is to use "soot" weathering powder to put some somoeky burn streaks running through it. Would give it the look of having been recently fired as well as the long term use you've already accomplished.

Truffle wrote:On the gun burn issue with the projectile weapons not getting that affect in real life. It was done more for the looks. Most modern tanks have burn resistant paint on them and are highly maintained. The imperial guard are basic most of the time and maintaining of weapons might not be to good. So I figured it gave them a nice neglected look.

Totally understand. As long as it's cool for you, that's what matters. Modern guns are maintained more, and while certain guns will pick up soot or powder, typically it will be pretty light before it gets cleaned.

I finished off an Exicutioner today with lots of burn.











I think the main gun is the best ive done. Comments?

Sentinel wrote:Absolutely fantastic! I love how it's not just the brown/black on the very end but also the discoloration due to the heat. Very well executed.

IMO that seems a bit out of place. A ballistic projectile weapon wont heat up that much without damage/warping of the barrel, causing to to have to be replaced. That level of heat discoloration is more proper for a melta type or other heat basedweapon.

The paint work on that model is well done, just out of place.

IMO that seems a bit out of place. A ballistic projectile weapon wont heat up that much without damage/warping of the barrel, causing to to have to be replaced. That level of heat discoloration is more proper for a melta type or other heat basedweapon.

The paint work on that model is well done, just out of place.

Now now....Lets not get technical

Really nice job!

Thanks guys.

Your about the third person to say that. I will repeat my reply that its more for looks than reality cos it looks cool

It definitely looks cool!

Long time since I have done anything that belongs in this thread. But I am working on a stormtalon and here are it engines.







Note 2 of the underside thrusters are not finished. Hope you like these

Damn fine work! Exalted! (whatever that does)

Thats awesome subscribed to your blog.

Wow, i wish i knew how to do this before i did mine on my stormtalon.
Oh well i can still use it on my meltas.

Glad you guy are still loving them.

Could you not just paint over the engines of your talon if you want to have this effect?