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Vallejo also do that metalic mixer stuff, i forget its name and a quick search on google didnt help :( but its like a clear metalic for mixing with colours to add metalic effect

i MUST have this! Thanks for the tip, I'm off hunting


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Found it

http://www.waylandgames.co.uk/Vallejo-Paints/Game-Color/Game-Color-Metallic-Medium/prod_2567.html

Some people are saying that they've had mixed results with it (no pun intended)

thats the stuff :~)

did the red ink not work out then kitch?

I think Reaper's "Red Metallic" might be what you need to make it nice and easy. And Reaper's paints are better than GW or Vallejo.

Evenin' all,

Progress in the perfect metallic red hunt so far.

Still need to find a way to darken these bad boys me thinks. I haven't tried adding mechanicum red or red gore to the mix yet, will strip these lads back down in the next day or so and try again.

Good luck with all that. It may just be easier to find some metallic red paint from somewhere?

You mean like the Turn Signal Red that I bought last week and just tried out above, that hasn't worked out quite like I hoped so I'm experimenting?

Only just tried it out, if it doesn't yield the results I want then yeah, I'll shop around for something else.

I am a proponent of painting a base metallic color (neutral like silver or others depending on a hue needed) and applying heavy/multiple washes of ink of desired hue.
In my humble opinion it's the only way to make colored metals look good.

I believe, that the reason it did not work for you is the fact that you are using a new GW wash, which is nothing like the old inks. Old inks give somewhat glossy, heavy color coverage and a different behavior as a liquid solution. GW inks are no longer produced, much to my disappointment, but there are alternatives, my solution was the Liquitex transparent ink. I have only tried burn sienna, but I can say that b. sienna imitates old GW chestnut ink perfectly(which is what I needed). I imagine other colors they have will not be found wanting.

Augustine, firstly awesome work on that website, you've got some pieces of work there!

If you were trying to get an "Iron Man red", where would you start out? Black base - gold prime - red ink as many as needed or do you know another way?

kitch102 wrote:Augustine, firstly awesome work on that website, you've got some pieces of work there!

You are too kind, Kitch, thank you

I think youve overloaded your brush with the red ink, you can see its pooled in all the recesses. You want to dab off more ink from your brush before you apply it so it stays where you put it rather than flowing over the mini.


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Is this more what your going for? (excuse the brush marks, i did it quickly)
That was basecoated black, vallejo glorious gold and three coats of old gw ink.

Yeah that's exactly it, which ink did you use and what's a good current substitute?

i used an old pot of gw red ink i still have, but your p3 ink should be very similar. The key is to try and build up the red in layers rather than trying to get it done in one hit. i loaded my brush with ink then dabbed it onto kitchen towel to remove most of it before painting.


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i guess the other way that might work if you wanted something quicker would be to go into halfords and get a spray can of metallic red car paint. The metallic flake might be a bit large for miniature painting tho

That's cool, I'll rock out with the red ink, you've shown its my technique and not the paints, at least I now.know what needs improving

Kitch i have a pot of Windsor and Newton 'Vermillion Ink'. It is for fountain pens. You can still buy it with ease.

Also if you get their 'Chestnut Ink' you can mix the two and get nice rich dark red glazes.

Here is about the best illustration i have of its application (i hit it with some satin varnish though, which dulled the gloss). That was just dark flesh with some highlited dark flesh runes)

Ho.....ly..... crap.... that's AWESOME!!!! Do you have a step by step for that?


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Nice game collection too btw

FINALLY! I have been searching for this thread to show you since you started this one! if this doesn't inspire and help your cause then nothing will! :-) some of the best work i've ever seen! i'm so glad I found it again!

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/371227.page

Enjoy!

Nerdfest09

Skippy wrote:Is this more what your going for? (excuse the brush marks, i did it quickly)
That was basecoated black, vallejo glorious gold and three coats of old gw ink.

Would this work if you premixed the gold and the ink together, and then applied it at once? I ask because I am looking for metallic color options for all of the lettering on my Grey Knights. Having to wash every little spot on each model, and keep the rest of the armor free of the colored wash, would be a nightmare.

I use glazes over metallics to get colour. You can also take a tip from the car model community and use clear red paints over metalics(i use tamia). Mixing anything with your metalics won't do, you need non-opaque layers over a metalic base. If it looks too red you need to thin your top layers, not red enough and you should apply multiple layers/don't thin the layers as much.

Yep; the technique's called 'candy coat'.

For a pinkish red (like the Sanguinary Phalanx) run with a silver/grey metallic base. For a deeper, orangey (Iron Man style) red go with a gold progression.

For miniatures you want very high contrast on this (almost black shade, almost pure silver highlights).

Then apply your red tint (I used Vallejo Clear Red). It must be a clear (well disolved) red - a solid pigment will rapidly hide the metallic sheen. Inks are your friend here.

Finish with gloss varnish.

winterdyne wrote:Yep; the technique's called 'candy coat'.

For a pinkish red (like the Sanguinary Phalanx) run with a silver/grey metallic base. For a deeper, orangey (Iron Man style) red go with a gold progression.

For miniatures you want very high contrast on this (almost black shade, almost pure silver highlights).

Then apply your red tint (I used Vallejo Clear Red). It must be a clear (well disolved) red - a solid pigment will rapidly hide the metallic sheen. Inks are your friend here.

Finish with gloss varnish.

you know i havent tried using gold instead of silver, I will very soon!

drybrush of shining gold, then red ink over it. works fantastic

Since GW metallics are all mithril silver with different pigments have you tried mixing red ink in with mithril silver?

Although there are some awesome methods on here that I am glad I've seen.

Sonophos wrote:Since GW metallics are all mithril silver with different pigments have you tried mixing red ink in with mithril silver?

yeah it ends up being really, really pink

Sonophos wrote:Since GW metallics are all mithril silver with different pigments have you tried mixing red ink in with mithril silver?

I went to a craft store (Michaels) to look for ink to try this out, although I want a warmer read, so I was planning on mixing red ink with gold. They didn't have the right ink, and on a lark I went in the craft paint isle and bought several super cheap metallic red paints there. All of them stunk except for one, which was a ruby red metallic gold paint. It is gold with a strong red tint to it which goes on smooth, provided it is watered down a bit just like all GW paints need to be watered down. I imagine one hit with red ink, instead of three would make this look great!

So for all those folks who are planning on painting in gold and then washing 3 or 4 times with red ink, look for a red/gold metallic paint and then only wash once! The one I found was called Royal Ruby Metallics by DecoArt.

Awesome, any chance of a picture of it on a mini?

When I do a test, I will post the results.

I also went to another craft store and got red ink. So I am going to do two tests. One with the red tinted metallic gold painted on, with ink applied afterwards, and one with the ink pre-mixed in with the red/gold, and applied once.

*still has and loves his bottle of GW red ink*

I think Tamiya makes a metallic red paint that's wicked..... But I looked and it doesn't seem to be in their line any more >.<

Have you tried ink over boltgun metal with mithril silver highlights? I find boltgun metal to have a much flatter finish to it. It may hold the ink more evenly.

Ok! I did one of my tests, and I am pretty happy with the results. Remember earlier how I found a cheapo Ruby Red Gold craft paint, that already had a red tint. Well I added drops of red ink to it and shook it up to see what I would get:





In order from left to right: Shining Gold (the control), Ruby Red Metallics from DecoArt (RRM), RRM plus 20 drops of red ink, RRM plus 60, RRM plus 100. The reason there are two pictures is that I took one shot with custom white balance against the florescent, another auto white balance with the flash. In real life, to my eyes, the one with the most ink is definitely the reddest. So I took that one, the one with 100 drops of red ink mixed in and painted it on my friendly neighboorhood AOBR marine:



Now that is not the best picture, but you can see how it still retains its metal-ness, even though it is redder. It is ever so slightly less shiny/metallic then the paint with no ink added. I don't think it is bad at all. It is certainly much much better then the time I mixed a little paint into a metallic - that just looked awful and pearl-like, instead of metallic. Anyway, I just washed it with Badab Black, to see how deep of a red I can get (I used Black Wash because I want to use this metal red for the lettering on my Grey Knights, and I want to be able to wash the armor and lettering together with one kind of wash). I'll post up a pic of that after it dries (probably tomorrow as I am going out now).

In my humble opinion, this method appears to work out AOK. For those of us who don't want to spend all of that time painting then washing 3 or 4 times, pre-mixing red ink with a red tinted gold appears to give decent results. And as a compromise, a person could do this pre-mixing, then wash once with red ink, to save time.


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Alright, since I am going to visit family for more than a day I took a picture of the black washed model just now. I really need to work on taking better pictures, or getting a light box or something. Anyway, you can see how it is darker some, and looks like a deeper red. Works for me, not sure if it is what you guys want: