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Made in us
Renegade Kan Killin Orks





San Francisco, CA

Very cool work!


   
Made in us
Last Remaining Whole C'Tan






Pleasant Valley, Iowa

 Luciusletroll wrote:
Some friends of mine works on it. Professionnal translator ^^. My wife is an english teacher in France, she can help me ^^


Thanks for the tips. I'm still working on mine, and yeah, maybe the chest plates are too big. So far as the translation, your English is better then my French, that's for sure.
   
Made in hk
Krazy Grot Kutta Driva





Hong Kong

Subscribed. Great work here! Love da' Mega-Nobs!

3500

Check out my Orks WIP blog 'ere http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/451845.page
Painting, and modeling models, not armies.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/528744.page 
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut




Oklahoma City

 Luciusletroll wrote:
Hey put some pics here ! It could be cool If you have a thread, link me








http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/472615.page



Thanks again for the tutorial! Will be producing more of these soon I hope!


http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/472615.page#4701031 LAND HOOOOOOO! my freeboota blog (can look me up on the-waaagh and da warpath same username)... Currently in the the midst of adventure into night goblin squig cult



hi daoc friends this is beeyawnsay c: 
   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Hey nice stuff. I think you should put more stuff in back and grow up the nob. I really like the weapon but it seems a little too big for twin linked gunz
The shield is awesome :p

Hi there !

Today my work for a local paint tournament. I win ! I'm happy because it's my fist vehicule paint, my first airbrush paint and my first paint tournament ^^ :





















more details (in french) on my blog : Orks Forge

   
Made in gb
Fixture of Dakka





6 foot underwater

Some lovely work here, very cool stuff.

Great paint job on that rhino

The MANZ are excellent, but what really grabbed me was that bike - very nice.

cyborks & flyboyz : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/300067.page
heretical ramblings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/302773.page
imperial preachings : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/303365.page
Da Waaagh-ky Races : http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/325045.page
Briancj: You have the Mek Taint, MT, and the only thing we can do is watch in horror/amazement.

 
   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





New Bedford, MA USA

Congrats !!

I especially like the text on the back of the dozer blade and underside.

   
Made in us
Anointed Dark Priest of Chaos






Those Manz are wesome. You need to figure out a way to cast and sell your designs as a kit people could use to make Manz conversions...

++ Death In The Dark++ A Zone Mortalis Hobby Project Log: http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/0/663090.page#8712701
 
   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Heyhey I search a mean to cast the entire miniatures. But it's hard ^^ If you know some tutorial, I like to know them

I can't mold little part one by one because I cut and reshape nobz before puting lots of little part. Too hard to make those piece and sell them

Thanks for greatings ^^

   
Made in gb
Long-Range Land Speeder Pilot






Loving the Meganobz conversions!!
   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Update of the meganob order. I am working on one to test proportion : It's quite effective








With mega-hand and metallic jaw :








C&C welcome !

   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






here my WIP :











family pics :



C&C welcome

   
Made in us
Gargantuan Gargant





New Bedford, MA USA

Dem Boyz is lookin mighty Ard !

   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Update for 2 week end works ! Pistons added for all Lateral plate for leggs add ! I start some back


MegaNobZ shield :



the same - back :




Têt'Bass :



the same - back :




Gross'Machoir' :



the same - back :




SmorK :



the same - back :



Some other MegaNobZ without back done :












C&C welcome !

   
Made in hk
Krazy Grot Kutta Driva





Hong Kong

Lookin' Good! I'm liking the look of the first one!

3500

Check out my Orks WIP blog 'ere http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/451845.page
Painting, and modeling models, not armies.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/528744.page 
   
Made in de
Ragin' Ork Dreadnought






Ingelheim am Rhein, Germany

Those look amazing so far. Great work, you are very skilled with plasticard!
But I think some of the aobr heads look really ugly. Maybe its only me, but I try to avoid them as much as I can!

LOOK!! a shameless self-promotion! (gasp!)
My ORK!-Blog here on dakka And if you need a good conversion or a paintjob... My commission blog

[

Looking for Painting & Modelling advice? Click here! 
   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Yeah but it's for an order and I do with the nobs my customers send to me.

   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






My Warmotorbike Boss in WIP






I really like the assault Gun with butt (like the boss can grap it and go on if he falls of moto :p)

   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Here is a papercraft I made :







It's fun ^^

   
Made in fr
Fresh-Faced New User






there is a mistake in the way the cockpit is integrated with the body, it must be pushed back more. I made the same mistake when building it and newobmij (author of the template) pointed it out. I fixed it in the second one (blood raven) that I built.
Good job and welcome in the paper craft world.
PS:
CANSON drawing paper is too expensive you can get similar weight of paper but meant for printing
   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Oh. Can you point more precisely my mistake ?

And if you have some french reference for good paper, it's cool

   
Made in fr
Fresh-Faced New User






yes I can because I did the exact same when I built it. Look at the reference (from GW) and at the pictures of the papercraft versions in newobmij blog (http://newobmij.tumblr.com), you'll see that the space between the opening of the cockpit and the body of the craft is much smaller (about 3mm or so). To do this when you attach the cockpit part to the body you have to push it further inside the body. The way you did it probably made building the underside more complicated.

Regarding paper, I work near an office depot in the southern suburb of Paris and I could find many grades of paper there. Otherwise you can probably order some on the internet, I use the Clairefontaine in 160gsm and 190gsm but there are other I am just a bit weary with the heavier grades as I bought some 250 once which would go in the office laser printer but not through my home printer.

Hope it helps, if you want more detais or advices don't hesitate to reply here or PM me.
PS: I love what you do with plasticard and I appreciate the article on your blog on where to find stuff in France, it is often not so easy
   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Thanks for tips


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Some stuff add, this is pics of the team of nine :

1)





2) (I must reshape the jaw)





3) Knight style





4) (I must reshape the jaw too)





5)





6) My favorite ^^ Simiesc and Knight style (notice the candy for the fuel tank)






7)





8) I like this one too





9) Very agressive posture






Thanks for C&C

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/11/11 19:37:12


   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






This is a fan translation of the meganob scratch-build technique developped by LuciusLeTroll, permission pending.

Original Author: LuciusLeTroll (http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/?showtopic=51276)
His blog 'Orks Forge', in french: http://orksforge.blogspot.fr/
Original how-to on his blog: http://orksforge.blogspot.fr/2012/04/tuto-...d-meganobz.html
Translation by Spacecat (http://www.the-waaagh.com/forums/index.php?showuser=13070)

I took the liberty of adding small tips from my own experience building one of these.


You too can create your Meganobz!

As planned, here is the tutorial to help and guide you in making your meganobz, to do so you will need a certain amount of tools and material. As always my goal is to save money, that is why I use Assault On Black Reach Nobs as a base. It is good to know that if you are motivated you can save the body and only use the arms and legs, but that is beyond the scope of this tutorial. For tools and plasticard, I am referring you to the tips on my blog. I myself do not use a precise plan, the tutorial is therefore more of a guide that will help you create your Meganobz, that is why I took lots of pictures, observing is often the best thing to do. Last advice before starting: Get yourself an official meganob, it will be useful inspiration.


Step 1: "Prepare da nob, boss!"

Picture 1

First thing to do is to remove the plastic bar below the feet, generally speaking it is best to cut everything that pokes away from the model and might interfere with the armor we'll build: Objects tied to waists, bit of belt poking out, etc... Do know that your Meganobz will be different depending on the arm stance, those will guide the final look of the figurine. you can cut them off if you have spare nob arms. (Because regular boy arms will not do, too small). At this step, you should also shave plastic off the front of the torso and the knees to help place plastic how you like.
(Spacecat tip: Go ahead and cut the fixed arm at the shoulder with a hobby saw. It's easy to alter the pose and glue it back later, that also gives you more room to work on the body and shoulders.)


Picture 2

You must start to prepare the mega-armor structure:
-A chest piece (pic 1/2)
-A loin guard (pic 1/2)
-bands or tubing to surround the ankles (pic 1/2)
-Shoes: Careful! you must raise the nobz thanks to platform-style shoes, make it so the armored shoes are about twice the height of the original shoes, with the original shoes at the top.
-A small tube on each side of the hip, pointed along the thigh: They form the hydraulic cylinders that will link to the knee pads. Those are touchy to adjust, I recommend to set them against a horizontal tube in the back.

Do note that I often cut off loinguards and chestplates later, it's best to make things too big and take a cutter to it later, according to needs.


Picture 3

We then glue short tubes that will link to kneepads (pic 3). You need to cut them at angles so the kneepads don't bump against the shoes. The nobz have difficult poses around the legs, we must deal with it and plan to avoid bunching up the legs.
(Spacecat tip: The AOBR nobs have a really bent shoe, slicing off the top of the tip to change the angle of the boot can help.)


Picture 4

I make the kneepads in thicker plasticard (1mm thick I think). Make sure to insert the rods in the cylinders without gluing them (pic 4/5), it's easier. Those darn cylinders are a pain to set, don't hesitate to go light on glue at the start because you may have to adjust everything later. Sometimes I even 'dig' into the figurine to set the cylinders in a believable way (Thank you mini-tools!).
(Spacecat tip: You may find it simpler to build the kneepads first, then set the cylinders and finally the back tube. Instead of the other way around.)


Picture 5


Picture 6

You can see on pictures 4 and 5 the basis for the meganobz legs. If we stopped here he would be very bunched up (like the first I built), so we must raise the shoes. You can use plastic cuttings to add detailing on the kneepads (extra plates, teeth, glyphs: pic 6/7)


Step 2: "Add ded 'ard armor protekshun, boss!"

Picture 7

Now comes the painful moment to prepare the dorsal armor box. Between cutting into the figurine and trying to find an appropriate height (Too high: Giant Meganob. Too low: The head doesn't set right and the MN looks too flat), it can get frustrating. I begun this step by making vertical shoulder plates (pic 8)


Picture 8

This step will requirs tons of adjustments so the shoulder plates join against the model without too much empty space. Ideally those plates would set against the chestpiece to unify the whole thing. Once this is done, set a plate over the vertical shoulderplates (bigger than necessary, use cutter when the glue has set). Sometimes pieces will come apart when we rework a plate, do not give up!


Picture 9

At this step it is advised to set a piece of plastic behind the head of each figurine, it hides the thinness of the plasticard and hides the depth (pic 9). Time to set the wings of our miniature airplanes! Some folks spoke out against these enormous shoulder-wings that they find ugly or not believable. For my part, I find it makes the charm of my meganobz, giving them a massive, 'knight of the scrapyard' look. You are free to not make these or make smaller ones, it's up to you. AT this step (pic 9) the meganobz look like planes on legs, don't worry, adding arms and big weapons will rebalance the model. Important tip: cut the shape in plasticard, give it a curve by giving multiple small bends with a pair of flat pliers, then file at an angle so the plate flues easily on the vertical shoulderplate. You will notice on pic 9 that I already, at this step, added the iron jaw. They can appear large, but once again we cut too large and use a cutter later on.


Picture 10

Now we start to give body and volume so our meganobz no longer look like airplanes. Glue the arms while considering the large size of the weapons that will go on them. You can cheat! Like adding a bit of tubing to set the arm further than the body, what matters is that we don't notice in the end. I even remember one arm cut over the elbow, glued to a tube that was glued directly under the shoulderguard! Also, besides the challenge of the tube holding on, it is a credible position as it'S easy to adjust the arm as we wish. However we need to improve the technique to have the arm hold on (small iron rod? I don't know). Glue extra armor plates under the shoulderguard, at an angle (pic 10). This has two uses: it gives volume to the model by hiding the relative thinness of the plastic, and it hides whatever mess we used to set the arm properly (if there is a mess).


Picture 11

At least, attach the hips with the feet by creating these armor bits on the sides of the model. Keep in mind the higher part is like a thigh, the lower part follows the tibia. That will help you see how to set each part. Have a look at the official meganob, that will also help.


Step 3: "Dakka Dakka DAKKA Boss!"

Now that we have a nicely protected meganob, we must arm it properly! Luckily (or not) the codex is a little thin on options, so we need power klaws and for the other arm a choice of twin-linked shootas, or kombi-weapons with rokkits or skorchas. The basis for each weapon or even klaws is similar: a box of plasticard (pic 12) on which we'll build the klaw or bits to make a gun (pic 13). I can't explain better than the pictures (pic 14/15). Keep in mind to look at the official meganob and check the net to make something believable. Don't forget also that we must 'appear' rather than 'be' in model-making, so even if in reality it couldn't work, as long as it looks believable when built, it's good.

Picture 12


Picture 13


Picture 14


Picture 15


Once this is finished, you're done with most of the work! You should have something like pictures 16 and 17. We're still not finished! We will need to dress our model severely to give it its final volume and a unique charm.

Picture 16


Picture 17


Step 4: "I'm da most proppa-lookin' boss, he he he!"


A meganob worth his teef is a meganob that leaves an impression, so the second objective (after killing and doing a lot of noise) is to make all boys around green(er) with envy. For that we need to hit the bits box and think a bit. Each builder can do what he wants, and there lies the advantage of playing ork: We can go wild and make almost anything! Though there are some important things, obviously:
-Mechanical parts: Mega-armors are dubious-looking junkyard tech, but always flashy and noisy. Even on the 'softest' mega-armor I made (pic 18) I let some meganical bits visible. In this case half an epic Thud gun. You can see something more elaborate on pic 19: gubbins, something off a circuit board, electrical wiring, bailing wire... All these bits together, a bit messy, give a mechanical power source to the unit.


Picture 18

-Rivets: It is mandatory to add riveting. If I made the choice of larger rivets to make my meganobs more menacing, it is perfectly fine to use smaller ones. But in all cases we need them!
-Smokestacks and exhausts: As you can see on pic 20, it is easy to make believable exhausts with variously sized tubes. Again you can go wild, but if you want to stay tame, one well-set tube (pic 18) will do nicely.


Picture 19


Picture 20


To conclude, here is a picture of a finished meganob, with battle damage:

final picture


You will notice the addition of a plate on the top of the arm as well as some hydraulic cylinders going from the shoulderguard to the arm (really useful all over, those shoulderguards). They are additions that I made on each meganob, they take a while to make but add a real visual impact. I also added extra armor plates under the shouldesr to give more volume and hide the base of each cylinder (which were in fact glued directly to the arm... it's all about appearance). Still, the model is imposing, believable and that's our main goal! (Besides of course you liking the model.)

I hope this tutorial will be helpful, thanks in advance for all C&C, don't hesitate to ask me more information or show me what you built thanks to this file.

   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






I work this week end on last weapos of my order :




















   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Just a fast video because it's late :/

Ridin : not time to work on it ;(


Megawarboss on youtube

   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Some news here :

Work in progress

Hé hé hé

   
Made in hk
Krazy Grot Kutta Driva





Hong Kong

Looks great

3500

Check out my Orks WIP blog 'ere http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/451845.page
Painting, and modeling models, not armies.
http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/528744.page 
   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






Thank you

   
Made in fr
Regular Dakkanaut






If you have some idea for this ThunderOrk, go and tell them to me

   
 
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