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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/22 11:26:01
Subject: 40k transfer problems
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Neophyte Undergoing Surgeries
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Hi there,
I've recently got into 40k, currently just have a few space marine units and went and bought all the essential tools and paints etc.
I have painted my marines to a pretty good standard for a total beginner (i think) but im having trouble with transfers for the shoulder pads.
I've read and watched several tutorials on applying transfers but whenever I try to apply them Im finding that they break up and disintegrate as I try to place them on the shoulder pad.
Im trying to be as careful and delicate as I can but the things just break apart.
Does anyone have any tips or advice? Might i have a dodgey transfer sheet?
Im tempted to give free hand painting them a go. Where do most people stand on transfers, do many people use them, or do most people paint their symbols on?
Cheers
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/22 13:15:44
Subject: Re:40k transfer problems
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Lead-Footed Trukkboy Driver
Youngwood, PA
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I have generally had the same problem w/ transfers, you have to be super careful w/ them. If you think you can freehand whatever your trying to accomplish I say go for it, besides the only way to get good at freehand is practice.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/22 22:54:28
Subject: 40k transfer problems
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Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator
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I don't know what you've tried, but when placing the transfer on the shoulder pad, you want to make sure to put down some water on the surface that will be receiving the transfer. This allows you to slide it around to position it. Then dab gently with tissue paper to pick up the moisture.
It is also important that you put a layer of gloss coat down on the area where you are going to place the transfer. This helps with the adhesion.
Further, with transfers on shoulder pads, you sometime have to make small cuts to help the transfer conform to the surface.
Here is my process:
1. Gloss coat shoulder pad
2. Cut out transfer and place in water for recommended time. It could be you're not leaving it in long enough, or too long.
3. Brush water on the shoulder pad
4. Slide off transfer with wet brush onto pad, move into place, using more water if need be.
5. Dab off excess moisture. Let dry.
6. Brush on decal softening solution. Let dry.
7. Brush on flat coat to cover the gloss, and seal in the transfer.
That tends to do it for me. Hope that helps.
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Legio Suturvora 2000 points (painted)
30k Word Bearers 2000 points (in progress)
Daemonhunters 1000 points (painted)
Flesh Tearers 2000+ points (painted) - Balt GT '02 52nd; Balt GT '05 16th
Kabal of the Tortured Soul 2000+ points (painted) - Balt GT '08 85th; Mechanicon '09 12th
Greenwing 1000 points (painted) - Adepticon Team Tourny 2013
"There is rational thought here. It's just swimming through a sea of stupid and is often concealed from view by the waves of irrational conclusions." - Railguns |
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/22 23:01:22
Subject: 40k transfer problems
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Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot
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In addition to that listed above, you should pick up some Micro Sol and Micro Set from your local Train or Hobby Store. Follow the directions on the bottle and your decals will shrink down to the surface of the model much better.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/22 23:37:57
Subject: Re:40k transfer problems
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Regular Dakkanaut
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Might just be a bad sheet, but it sounds more like your timing is off.
Part of the trick to using transfers is knowing how long to dunk, how long to soak, and when to actually slide it off the paper.
Usually you only need dunk the decal in the water for a few seconds. Usually about 8-10 seconds for produced ones, only 5 for custom jobs.
Then, after you've removed them from the water, give them a little time for the water to really soak in and liquefy the adhesive. Just hold it there for about 20-30 seconds.
After that, then try actually sliding it off, very very gently. If it resists at all, it's not ready, forcing it will just tear it.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/26 09:35:08
Subject: 40k transfer problems
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Jovial Plaguebearer of Nurgle
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I wouldn't recommend dunking them in water at all, cut them out and press them onto a damp/wet tissue or kitchen roll. When the transfer starts moving around slide it onto the model.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/27 06:12:05
Subject: 40k transfer problems
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Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot
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If the sheet is a bit old, you can also spray the sheet with matte varnish, and let it dry. This will help the decal hold together better.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/27 07:25:45
Subject: 40k transfer problems
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Regular Dakkanaut
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Transfers don't work on shoulder pads...they just don't.
Free hand.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/27 09:01:30
Subject: Re:40k transfer problems
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Fixture of Dakka
drinking ale on the ground like russ intended
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To the people who have problems with the transfers. You will need the following clear and matt varnish solvaset http://www.houseofhobbies.com/sodeseso.html a damp towel and a shallow dish with water in it. Paint the model allow to dry. Apply gloss varnish let dry. Place the decal in the water then immediately place it on the towel when the decal moves on the paper, paint on the solvaset then apply the decal it will need coaxing to lay flat let dry reapply to remove any bubbles or waves when flat let dry apply matt varnish.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/27 09:07:55
Subject: 40k transfer problems
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[SWAP SHOP MOD]
Yvan eht nioj
In my Austin Ambassador Y Reg
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I second the recommendation for Micro Sol and Micro Set - I bought them a few months ago and never looked back. They only cost a couple of £s per bottle and make any transfers look 100% better. Especially good for transfers applied to curved surfaces (ie shoulder pads).
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/30 21:52:55
Subject: 40k transfer problems
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Lone Wolf Sentinel Pilot
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beezley1981 wrote:Transfers don't work on shoulder pads...they just don't.
Free hand.
Really? I beg to differ.
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![[Post New]](/s/i/i.gif) 2010/08/31 03:14:12
Subject: 40k transfer problems
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Anti-Armour Swiss Guard
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^ He knows what he's talking about.
You can't get a flat decal to stick to a curve easily without micro-sol/micro-set. Especially a compound curve like a pauldron (which is curved along two axes).
They are a good investment and will last a long time.
Remember the old adage:
A wise man is someone who learns from OTHERS' mistakes.
A fool learns from their own.
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I'm OVER 50 (and so far over everyone's BS, too).
Old enough to know better, young enough to not give a ****.
That is not dead which can eternal lie ...
... and yet, with strange aeons, even death may die.
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