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Hi.
I want to protect my metal figures so the paint dont fall off easely.
So is the army painter matt varnish as good as gw's purity seal when it comes to protect the minis and not the shine effect?

Matte varnish offers less protection then gloss.

You can get the strength of gloss and the matteness of matte by covering your mini with gloss and then hit it with the matte.

First, a definite +1 to the "gloss for durability then matte for looks" method.

As to your actual question, I've heard that Purity Seal is mediocre, at best. Regardless, it'll be WAY overpriced for a can of matte spray varnish. I can't speak to the quality of the Army Painter stuff, but I'd suggest you don't limit your options to companies that target modelers/wargamers specifically, since they normally gouge you, claiming to be the top dog in a niche market - the thing is, miniatures are niche, varnish is not. Plenty of people get by just fine using Krylon sprays you can buy at any home improvement/hardware/paint store. It'll save you money.

Personally, I've used both Krylon matte varnish and Testors Dullcote (over their equally good gloss) to good effect. The heartiest recommendations you'll get around the net will most likely be for Dullcote. As long as you don't buy a can of total junk, bad spray technique is the only thing that will really give you bad results.

Purity seal has done nothing but frost the models I used it on. I have heard that army painter is a good painting range and although I haven't used any of their products, I cant help but imagine that any alternative would be better than purity seal.

I stopped using GW Purity Seal primarily because they have stopped doing matte varnish for some bizarre reason. I don't want my minis to have a satin finish.

I now use Army Painter matte varnish and so far, so good.

Trilobite wrote:Purity seal has done nothing but frost the models I used it on. I have heard that army painter is a good painting range and although I haven't used any of their products, I cant help but imagine that any alternative would be better than purity seal.

AP can frost up, for the same reason as PS, which is Humidity (and also the dip not being fully dry etc) but having used it, when it frosts up, it's not quite as white, frosts up more grey, which, on say, my rhino, is actually kinda neat as it looks like worn/chipped paint, though with infantry minis, the frosting is less desireable.

Frosting seems to be an inherent problem in aerosol matt varnishes, well, it's just like primer really, if th econditions aren't right, it can mess up, except that it seems to be more touchy than primer.

So if I live in a humid country all-year round, I'm screwed?

Get loads of dehumidifiers, radiators and fans

Just to make it clear: there is matt varnish, gloss varnish and a 50/50 mix of both called satin varnish or 'ard coat. So GW's varnish is semi-glossy. All varnishes influence the colours their cover, mostly making them a bit darker and reducing colour differences. Even with 5 coats of varnish though, banging two metal miniatures against each other will let the colour chip.

starsdawn wrote:So if I live in a humid country all-year round, I'm screwed?

Nope, just buy a cheap brush and some paint on matte varnish, will take you longer to do, but it will not frost up at all.

RayvenQ wrote:Frosting seems to be an inherent problem in aerosol matt varnishes, well, it's just like primer really, if th econditions aren't right, it can mess up, except that it seems to be more touchy than primer.

Does aerosal gloss varnish have the same frosting problems as matt?

I wouldn't know, as I haven't used them, I suppose they would and if they did it'd be either less or more noticable than when it happens on matte stuff.

I used to live in Northern Ohio (humid as all get out) and then Florida (even worse). I never had a problem with fogging from any spray varnish. Here's the secret:

Spray outside and immediately bring the models back inside to dry. Don't let them sit in the humidity and you will be fine.

A word of warning ... if you use decals especially dry transfers , the GW purity seal eats them alive... a rather unwelcome surprise after many hours work!

i just started using krylon workable fixative looks great doesnt frost and its cheap

If you get a frost on the model then it is often easy to fix:
In my experience ard coat is a straight gloss whereas purity seal was satin. GW did do a matt varnish years and years ago and it was was called matt varnish, blue tin. anyway....


Fixing frost:

Check weather for local humidity condiions, you need a good mix of a decent temp, preferably close to room temp and a humidity level that is as low as poss.

Step 1.
Get a good gloss varnish, I've used army painter matt and it works great so I think it is reasonable to try their gloss.

Step 2
When you have prime atmospheric conditions do the following:

Spray models with an extremely heavy coat of the gloss. The stronger gloss solvent will begin to literally dissolve the weaker matt varnish and the grey will start to go away.

Once the the coat seems half dry, hit it again. Repeat this until there is no further effect.

This has got rid of 99% of the frost on my red skinks

http://www.flickr.com/photos/26990385@N06/3022898743/sizes/l/in/set-72157608904911658/



If you want a matt varnish afterwards I reccomend using testors dull cote as it is really really really strong. Remember for the future that if you want to use dullcote you have to use a gloss varnish first otherwise bad things happen to the model.

Also, with the AP matt spray, ventilation, ventilation, ventilation, if you don't have enough ventilation, my god it is not pleasant on the lungs.