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I bought a can a Krylon's white spray primer today. It was recommended to me by users on this site (search bar). It just completely destroyed all the detail on the 6 figures I primed. I did spray a little to close but the spray only lasted 6 inches anyway. This was about 15 minutes ago and they (the figures) are sitting in a soapy container of water. I can really scrap it all off. What can I do? do I have to go get stripping fluid? Please help I just got screwed.

Well the question is what sort of figures are they plastic resin metal?

Second you really shouldnt be that close to the models when you are spraying.

Easy-off oven cleaner....Put your mini's in a bag, spray oven cleaner liberally, seal the bag, let soak over night. Next day rinse in water and scrub with an old tooth brush.

Re-prime using proper technique...primer, along with any other paint should not be a "single pass" application, it is better to take your time and do a couple of coats.

Ashton

Well I have primed fine in the past. Unfortuantly one of the models (all plastic) was a friends and his glue just dissolved /:(

6 inches is way too close. Ideally you want to be in the "mist" area of the spray not the "wet" area. A couple thin coats to get coverage are better than a single wet coat.

What happened was pure operator error, you didnt get screwed by the recommendation, you used improper technique.

Mad4Minis wrote:6 inches is way too close. Ideally you want to be in the "mist" area of the spray not the "wet" area. A couple thin coats to get coverage are better than a single wet coat.

What happened was pure operator error, you didnt get screwed by the recommendation, you used improper technique.

As a provider of technical support for a spray on sign coating I concur.

Agreed especially when using different types of primer.

Personally I like army painter colored primer (love that stuff).
It is quite thick and well if you have it at mist distance it coats evenly and gets everywhere its awesome.

But ya longer distance more coats.

How did you make the glue dissolve?
Like do you mean super glue or plastic glue?

Redfinger wrote:Easy-off oven cleaner....Put your mini's in a bag, spray oven cleaner liberally, seal the bag, let soak over night. Next day rinse in water and scrub with an old tooth brush.

Re-prime using proper technique...primer, along with any other paint should not be a "single pass" application, it is better to take your time and do a couple of coats.

Ashton

If you want your minis to be even more ruined, then do what this guy said.

Simple Green. Let them soak over night.

Also dont forget to attach the safety notice simple green should never touch your skin and never breath it in better yet dont look at it if its not in a closed bottle

But ya that stuff works really well just be careful when handling it it is well ya.

Read the warnings.

The simple green all purpose cleaner? Would Goof off work? I also realize that it was my fault. I don't know what kind of glue my friend used but it is gone now.

nectarprime wrote:

Redfinger wrote:Easy-off oven cleaner....Put your mini's in a bag, spray oven cleaner liberally, seal the bag, let soak over night. Next day rinse in water and scrub with an old tooth brush.

Re-prime using proper technique...primer, along with any other paint should not be a "single pass" application, it is better to take your time and do a couple of coats.

Ashton

If you want your minis to be even more ruined, then do what this guy said.

Simple Green. Let them soak over night.

Sorry, I call foul here! Dude you don't know what your talking about, I have been using this method for models for 10+ years...don't shoot it down unitll you have tried it yourself.....Easy-Off will work on plastic, resin, metal, lead, pewter, vinyl.....


Ashton

cowpow16 wrote:Also dont forget to attach the safety notice simple green should never touch your skin and never breath it in better yet dont look at it if its not in a closed bottle

But ya that stuff works really well just be careful when handling it it is well ya.

Read the warnings.

You CAN use oven cleaner on metal miniatures NEVER on plastic. Also Simple Green is not so toxic you can't touch it with bare skin. It is actually marketed as being non-toxic though it is considered an eye irritant. Don't drink it and don't soak yourself in it. But as a person surrounded by hazardous material, Simple Green doesn't even register on my radar.


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Oven Cleaner is not recommended for plastic. It can be used on certain plastics but not on all.

AnotherNoob wrote:I bought a can a Krylon's white spray primer today. It was recommended to me by users on this site (search bar). It just completely destroyed all the detail on the 6 figures I primed. I did spray a little to close but the spray only lasted 6 inches anyway. This was about 15 minutes ago and they (the figures) are sitting in a soapy container of water. I can really scrap it all off. What can I do? do I have to go get stripping fluid? Please help I just got screwed.

KingCracker has a great write up about stripping paint off models using stuff from the dollar store. It's in the painting and modeling section of the forum.

Yeah just read it before I saw your post. Sorry to everyone who is like "ANOTHER PAINT STRIPPING THREAD!?".

Ya that LAs best or something been hearing good stuff never seen it my self and havent seen it work so I cant say much about that.

Still simple green still should be handled with care and it may also irritate your skin. At least I have found it does that to my hands so Im just saying on the side of caution.

There is a product called Green Works. It was all I could find (at one store) instead of simple green. It appears to have all the same active ingredients (alcohol and some coconut extract). It should work right? I guess we will find out soon enough.

Sarpedon_702 wrote:

cowpow16 wrote:Also dont forget to attach the safety notice simple green should never touch your skin and never breath it in better yet dont look at it if its not in a closed bottle

But ya that stuff works really well just be careful when handling it it is well ya.

Read the warnings.

You CAN use oven cleaner on metal miniatures NEVER on plastic. Also Simple Green is not so toxic you can't touch it with bare skin. It is actually marketed as being non-toxic though it is considered an eye irritant. Don't drink it and don't soak yourself in it. But as a person surrounded by hazardous material, Simple Green doesn't even register on my radar.


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Oven Cleaner is not recommended for plastic. It can be used on certain plastics but not on all.

I still call foul on this, I have stripped DOZENS and DOZENS of GW models with oven cleaner and have never had a single problem. Not only GW stuff, but other companies models as well, like Revelle, Fine Molds, Monogram, ect...If something has happened to the plastic after soaking it in oven cleaner than you have let it sit in the mixture too long. Oven cleaner is fine and effective.

Ashton

Does it have pine oil in it? I think that's one of the active ingredients needed.

It has multiple plant based oils and it doesn't specify which.

LATA's works great, if you can find it.

I will agree with Redfinger, I have used Easy Off oven cleaner for GW plastics and metals and never had a problem. I have never left them to soak overnight however, usually 2 - 3 hours will do the trick. Just make sure to wear gloves when you handle the parts when you bring them out of the bag.

I tried Easy Off. It'll probably work on Krylon, but I have some old IG that it simply won't budge the red, black or yellow Testors. Every other color melted off just fine. Looks really weird on the "tiger stripe" camo dudes.

Simple Green rocks, but it only works on Acrylic.


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Two other options are Brake Fluid (toxic!) and Castrol Super Clean. Haven't tried the Castrol, don't know if Brake Fluid will melt the plastic.

OH, Don't soak plastics in Easy Off overnight. 2-3 hours max. It'll soften the plastic...(sob!). Umm...What else? Simple Green will make CA (superglue) brittle, which can be a lifesaver if you've botched gluing an arm on or whatever. Easy Off doesn't seem to affect that as the arm would be more likely to snap off than the superglue join due to the plastic softening effects. I know. I did a huge batch last week....




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Jburch wrote:I will agree with Redfinger, I have used Easy Off oven cleaner for GW plastics and metals and never had a problem. I have never left them to soak overnight however, usually 2 - 3 hours will do the trick. Just make sure to wear gloves when you handle the parts when you bring them out of the bag.

You need the big ol' yellow rubber ones like Grandma used to wear. Seriously, Easy Off will melt the skin off your face. I'm not disputing the wonderous effects of Easy Off, just pointing out it's not the perfect solution to every enamel-based problem. But it's cheap and you should try it. Gallon zip lock baggie, can of 'Off, and rubber gloves all available at any decent grocery store.


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Ok, sorry for another edit. Castrol Super Clean is recommended by my local Model/RR store. They say it'll get enamel paint off plastic models overnight without ruining the plastic. I haven't tried it, but I'm going to. I'll let you know how it worked out.

I use superclean all the time, no melting plastic its easy to use and gets off all of the paint. Oh and its not called castrol superclean any more just superclean, gallon bottle purple.

Put them in superclean(mixed with water)( I do 1:1 ratio) over night then scrub under water with old tooth brush, good as new.

cowpow16 wrote:Also dont forget to attach the safety notice simple green should never touch your skin and never breath it in better yet dont look at it if its not in a closed bottle

But ya that stuff works really well just be careful when handling it it is well ya.

Read the warnings.

Simple Green isn't toxic at all, so I'm not sure where you got all of that from. It is however a very effective degreaser and will dry your skin out after prolonged exposure, so if that's an issue then you should take precautions to limit contact.

How about Dettol? I use this on the mini's i'm stripping, a couple of hours and they're loose enough to scrub off in warm water and a toothbrush, non toxic, smells like clean and works well on anything, and i don't know what the worry is about the glue? i'm sure it can be re glued fine! :-)

as far as primers go, I'm a fan of either army painter (I use the dragon red on mine) or good 'ol games workshop, I know it's expensive but it does work well.


Nerdfest09

GreenWorks appears to be working. I don't have time to give it a good scrub and they have only been sitting for 18 hours anyway.

Super Clean/Purple Power is the way to go, especially to remove white primer. Should take it right off after an overnight soak.

Brake Fluid will work to remove just about anything and won't ruin plastics at all. It is toxic, however, but handling it is no more dangerous than using a driveway degreaser like SC. Make sure to wear gloves to keep your skin from losing it's natural protective oils since these things are essentiall very powerful oil/grease removers.

Neconilis wrote:

cowpow16 wrote:Also dont forget to attach the safety notice simple green should never touch your skin and never breath it in better yet dont look at it if its not in a closed bottle

But ya that stuff works really well just be careful when handling it it is well ya.

Read the warnings.

Simple Green isn't toxic at all, so I'm not sure where you got all of that from. It is however a very effective degreaser and will dry your skin out after prolonged exposure, so if that's an issue then you should take precautions to limit contact.

I was thinking the same thing.
I usually let my minis soak in Simple Green for a few days (Up to a week), but the paint slides right off after that. Just use an old toothbrush for the nooks and crannies. I've gotten it on my hands before and there aren't any fumes that I noticed. It's really effective if you want something non-toxic that you can just pout down the drain afterwards.
And since the OP is in the US, it's easy to come by. The automotive section of Wal*Mart carries it.

I've never tried paint stripping a plastic or resin model, but for metal models I reccomend using Nitro-Mors. It's really quick and powerful, but a word of warning: only use it on metal models. I applied some to a piece of sprue, and it completely melted.

Haven't tried Simple Green. Sounds like it takes a while to work. Is it available in the UK?

Oh, and one more thing. I reccomend using Wilkinsons spray paint for undercoating. It has the right consistency, and is very cheap. I don't know if you have Wilkinsons over in the US, but if you do, it's worth a look.

Yeah the GreenWorks is working. Scrubbing off fine. It is still caked in the details and needs some time but there is just one problem. I think it may be softening the plastic. Plastic glue bonds are starting to weaken. Other than that it is fine but. I don't know if I should pull them or let them sit for longer.