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Hey,

Just wondering if anyone uses Humbrol paints for their miniatures?

Presumably, you are referring to Humbrol enamel paints?

I used them many, many years ago when I was a youngster. They are pretty difficult to work with - you would be better off using acrylics.

They're awful.

I use these for my battleships and I find them hideous to work with. Having to use thinner instead of water is annoying and more costly.

Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based and unsuitable for painting minis so give them a miss unless you're doing airbrushing.

RossDas wrote:Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based and unsuitable for painting minis so give them a miss unless you're doing airbrushing.

I've been using Tamiya acrylics quite a bit in my painting. While I like them less than I like GW/Reaper/Vallejo paints, I wouldn't call them "unsuitable" by any means.

I have been using humbrol enamel paints with great success. I used humbrol on all the painting on this guy except for the highlights and the cape.

Raatcharch wrote:

RossDas wrote:Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based and unsuitable for painting minis so give them a miss unless you're doing airbrushing.

I've been using Tamiya acrylics quite a bit in my painting. While I like them less than I like GW/Reaper/Vallejo paints, I wouldn't call them "unsuitable" by any means.

Wow, I tried to use them but found applying the paint difficult as subsequent strokes of the brush would remove still-wet paint off the surface of the model, and often result in an uneven surface when dry; is there a way around that?

I wait for it to dry between coats.

They've gotten better since i first used them on models as a kid. Use them for grey Nazi uniforms.

RossDas wrote:

Raatcharch wrote:

RossDas wrote:Tamiya acrylics are alcohol based and unsuitable for painting minis so give them a miss unless you're doing airbrushing.

I've been using Tamiya acrylics quite a bit in my painting. While I like them less than I like GW/Reaper/Vallejo paints, I wouldn't call them "unsuitable" by any means.

Wow, I tried to use them but found applying the paint difficult as subsequent strokes of the brush would remove still-wet paint off the surface of the model, and often result in an uneven surface when dry; is there a way around that?

Yeah, I've experienced that too. I don't know if there is a way around that other than letting the previous layer dry completely. I am trying to phase them out of my toolbox, but they are still a huge step up from the Apple Barrel craft paints I learned on.

I've used the Humbrol ACRYLICS, but not the enamels in many years.
The acrylics were easy enough to use and blend.

The Humbrol enamels can be mixed. You have to thin and clean with white spirit, which is a nuisance.

They dry more slowly than acrylics, which can be an advantage for blending.

I use some Tamiya acrylics and mix them with GW and Liquitex paints with no problems.

Mind you, I prefer to use sprays and dips as much as possible, for speed of production.

I find Tamiya paints REEAAALLY good for large ares like cloaks. If I had pics I would show you mah chaos cloaky thing.

The trick with Tamiya is to layer x 10000000

The artist George Shaw used them in a series of paintings of working class urban scenes. They looked like scenes on biscuit tins, which added to the 'proletarian' feel. He did a good job of capturing the play of light, hope the he gets the Turner prize for it.



Oh, wait, you said on miniatures. Disregard this post.

Yes the enamel paints are a pain
BUT they now make some acrylic paints which are exactly same as gw paints but cheaper and in a decent pot
Revell also make something sinnilar and theyre are quite good as well