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Made in ca
Heroic Senior Officer





Krieg! What a hole...

Newbie using resin models, which one is easier/does it have a major impact?

Member of 40k Montreal There is only war in Montreal
Primarchs are a mistake
DKoK Blog:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/419263.page Have a look, I guarantee you will not see greyer armies, EVER! Now with at least 4 shades of grey

Savageconvoy wrote:
Snookie gives birth to Heavy Gun drone squad. Someone says they are overpowered. World ends.

 
   
Made in us
Stealthy Warhound Titan Princeps






Bobthehero wrote:Newbie using resin models, which one is easier/does it have a major impact?


depends on the model.

What model is it?
   
Made in au
Lady of the Lake






Build first then paint. Stops the paint getting in the way and possibly weakening the bond and stops the shading looking somewhat off.

   
Made in ca
Heroic Senior Officer





Krieg! What a hole...

n0t_u wrote:Build first then paint. Stops the paint getting in the way and possibly weakening the bond and stops the shading looking somewhat off.


Just as my dad says, but he prefers to paint then build (mind you he's been doing HO train models since way before I was born, and I am 20)

Horst wrote:
Bobthehero wrote:Newbie using resin models, which one is easier/does it have a major impact?


depends on the model.

What model is it?


DKoK Grenadiers.

Member of 40k Montreal There is only war in Montreal
Primarchs are a mistake
DKoK Blog:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/419263.page Have a look, I guarantee you will not see greyer armies, EVER! Now with at least 4 shades of grey

Savageconvoy wrote:
Snookie gives birth to Heavy Gun drone squad. Someone says they are overpowered. World ends.

 
   
Made in us
Stealthy Warhound Titan Princeps






paint the legs + bodies + heads together, paint the arms seperately. Then glue them together.
   
Made in us
Decrepit Dakkanaut





Vallejo, CA

It depends on how badly you want to chip off superglue and repaint fogged acrylic.

Anywhere you can't get a paintbrush on an assembled model is somewhere nobody's going to possibly ever see.

Plus, if you're going to want to do ANY amount of conversion work, even something so little as posing arms outside of the one stock way they come off the sprue will require you to build then paint.

Your one-stop website for batreps, articles, and assorted goodies about the men of Folera: Foleran First Imperial Archives. Read Dakka's favorite narrative battle report series The Hand of the King. Also, check out my commission work, and my terrain.

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Made in dk
Battle-tested Knight Castellan Pilot





Copenhagen

Having painted those Grenadiers myself I´d certainly say build first.

The main reason, is that you need to attach those fiddly little power lines for their guns, and those need to be heated and then attached while still pliable. Which will be very difficult to do without paint chipping.
Also, as others have said, for DKOK models you need a strong bond to make sure your models don´t pop apart in use.

Good luck with them, and take your time, they´re worth it.

Back on the path of the Imperial Citizen

Still rolling ones...

Krieg: More wins than Losses. 
   
Made in de
Dipping With Wood Stain





Hattersheim, Germany

If major parts would be getting in the way, paint them separately and then glue them together. Works like a charm if you use the superglue sparingly and slightly sand the areas where paint already was applied - this will give you a very solid bond.

Cheers,


IK-Painter

Check out my Warmachine and Malifaux painting blog at http://ik-painter.blogspot.com/

As always, enjoy and have fun! 
   
Made in gb
Screaming Banshee






Cardiff, United Kingdom

The only scenario I've ever found where I would advise painting a piece first is working on certain models' heads... namely if you want them undercoated a different colour or if it'd be fiddly to paint the head when it's mounted (i.e. Draigo's head)

   
Made in gb
Fixture of Dakka






Dorset, Southern England

I've learnt that most adhesive strip off paint, so I would highly recommend building it first. Also, it helps if you are painting to get a realistic shading perspective on the entire model.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/11/29 11:45:14


BlapBlapBlap: bringing idiocy and mischief where it should never set foot since 2011.

BlapBlapBlap wrote:What sort of idiot quotes themselves in their sigs? Who could possibly be that arrogant?
 
   
Made in us
Angry Blood Angel Assault marine




Tampa Bay area, FL

For the most part it is Build and then Paint with a few exceptions. The most notable is Bolters on marines, if you position the arms right, you can leave off the bolter, paint the model and then put the gun in the hands.
I've also seen cases where most of the model is built but some parts are left off for example shoulder pads or helmets since they have a radically different color scheme and need to be primed a different color for easy painting.
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

Depends on the model. I build as much as I can before painting tho.

For example on a tactical marine I will assemble everything but the bolter before painting.
   
Made in za
Thunderhawk Pilot Dropping From Orbit





South Africa

Depends on the part I am painting. If it is like the upper body of a dreadnought, paint it as a whole so completed. If it was a tiny little thing like a SM head then paint on the sprue so it won't move while I paint it.

Shadow Legion's lost warmachine http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/382008.page

2750 point - Space marine
750 point - Ork
1250 point - Wood Elves
750 point Brettonia
 
   
Made in gb
Screaming Banshee






Cardiff, United Kingdom

I'm painting all my Grey Knight heads on the sprue so I can get into the headspaces on the Termie Armour... I also intend on some of the heads being swappable (namely the Apothecary's, as I want him to double up as a regular Termie)

   
Made in us
Tail-spinning Tomb Blade Pilot







I find that I do a hybrid. Marines, build body and build arms+weapon then paint the 2 pieces seperatly. With vehicles partial assembly + paint is the way to go. You just have to find what you like best.

My Armies: 8000 , 3000 , 8000 High Elf, 10000+ and goblin, 5000 Dwarf

My current work blog on what I am painting.http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/410840.page
 
   
Made in us
Willing Inquisitorial Excruciator






Utah

Hybrid. Everything that goes in one chunk without overhead I do I assemble. For example, on marines I do everything but the gun and pack. I also leave off any part that will require special attention, e.g. heads and banners.

Finally, when it comes to airbrushing I often don't assemble parts that are going to have unique effects, like on the dreadknight I assembled the body and left off the marine and all the armored panels to be airbrushed individually.

Just look at each model and stop assembling at the point things start getting in the way of eachother.

I strongly disagree with the poster who says anything covered by something else is something people can't see anyways. There are all kinds of parts that obfuscate eachother yet are still very visible. The marines chest aquila for instance is a beast to paint if you assemble the arm and gun pieces.

My Armies: 1347 1500 1500
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Made in ca
Heroic Senior Officer





Krieg! What a hole...

Xanthos wrote:Having painted those Grenadiers myself I´d certainly say build first.

The main reason, is that you need to attach those fiddly little power lines for their guns, and those need to be heated and then attached while still pliable. Which will be very difficult to do without paint chipping.
Also, as others have said, for DKOK models you need a strong bond to make sure your models don´t pop apart in use.

Good luck with them, and take your time, they´re worth it.


Heated? What kinda of heating do you mean?

Member of 40k Montreal There is only war in Montreal
Primarchs are a mistake
DKoK Blog:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/419263.page Have a look, I guarantee you will not see greyer armies, EVER! Now with at least 4 shades of grey

Savageconvoy wrote:
Snookie gives birth to Heavy Gun drone squad. Someone says they are overpowered. World ends.

 
   
Made in gb
Deadly Dark Eldar Warrior





Wales

Usually build then paint. However, once you completely build a model, some areas become very inaccessible to further painting. Once you put the arms on a Space Marine, you can't paint the breastplate, for example. Some don't see that a problem, while I always try to paint the models to the best of my ability. In that case, I will leave the obstructing appendage off until I am satisfied with the soon-to-be-obstruced area. I then basecoat the arm/whatever, and stick it on, paint it as normal. This does mean that I paint the breastplate to full detail, but the back of the arm is neglected, this is because the breastplate will be facing you and the back of the arm is not.

The only time I've had to properly paint fully then build is with a recent Infinity model, where the arms are in such an awkwardly dramatic pose that there was no chance of my painting one side of the face whatsoever if I were to build then paint. Here.

The right arm sticks on at the elbow and the left at the shoulder. Had to paint both arms and sword fully before sticking on.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2011/11/29 20:43:28


WHFB Dark Elves 6k
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Made in ca
Heroic Senior Officer





Krieg! What a hole...

Well, I just realized I forgot to says thanks for the many inputs given here.

So thank you everyone for the tips/input/help.

Member of 40k Montreal There is only war in Montreal
Primarchs are a mistake
DKoK Blog:http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/419263.page Have a look, I guarantee you will not see greyer armies, EVER! Now with at least 4 shades of grey

Savageconvoy wrote:
Snookie gives birth to Heavy Gun drone squad. Someone says they are overpowered. World ends.

 
   
Made in us
Excellent Exalted Champion of Chaos






Lake Forest, California, South Orange County

This did not need a month old bump...

"Bryan always said that if the studio ever had to mix with the manufacturing and sales part of the business it would destroy the studio. And I have to say – he wasn’t wrong there! ... It’s become the promotions department of a toy company." -- Rick Priestly
 
   
Made in au
Lady of the Lake






Still went out of their way to thank everyone which doesn't happen all that often.

   
Made in gb
Screaming Banshee






Cardiff, United Kingdom

Threadromancy can be nice sometimes... People get rather *insert colloquialism about posteriors* about it.

   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




Only in cases where an area would be both visible and difficult to paint without risking stray paint on other visible areas should you paint before building. The stock example seems to be the bolter-holding arm of tactical marines.


I dunno... I imagined the sept guarding the Perdus rift would wear the same black armour as Ulthwe eldar. Maybe being in close proximity to the warp makes you emo.

~Cheese Elemental 
   
Made in gb
Longtime Dakkanaut




UK

Aerethan wrote:This did not need a month old bump...


He was just being polite, unlike your post
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





44.328850 / -73.110190

Original posters are immune to "threadcromancy".


 Gitsplitta wrote:
That's.... dirt... Skalk. Actual dust. (09/08/2021)
 
   
 
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