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Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





California

I can't believe I ruined my whole box of black reach I spent 2 months painting my orks with love and now their ruined, my poor orkses. Curse you army painter matt spray. I was just spent the last four days making my orks ready to fight this weekend and now they look all....frosty. Is there no hope for my poor orkses, aside from striping them down to plastic?
   
Made in us
Dakka Veteran



Upper East Side of the USA

I've never used matte spray, but I've read scary threads abotu them. If my memory is right, it may be possible to spray them again with something to get the frostyness away. If peopel don't reply quickly enough to this, try using the search function because I remember reading about this before.
   
Made in gb
Wrathful Warlord Titan Commander





Ramsden Heath, Essex

Don't quote me on this but I think that a coat of gloss can reverse the problem.

Have a search here on Dakka this has come up many times and there could be a solution for you on here somewhere.

How do you promote your Hobby? - Legoburner "I run some crappy wargaming website " 
   
Made in im
Nasty Nob on Warbike with Klaw





Liverpool

Place one frosty model under water. If it looks ok (the frost disappears) then you don't have an even coat of varnish.

Spray them again and the frost should clear up.

If it still looks bad under water it's a different problem, and I have no advice.
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





California

I tried adding more varnish thinking that it was frosty becuase the coat wasnt even but that didnt help either. now it just looks thick and frosty
   
Made in au
Frenzied Juggernaut





Australia

Sounds like you may have oversprayed them a tad?

I did that on the first few models I sprayed.

Dark Eldar- 1500pts Completed
Grey Knights- 1500pts 1 Guy done
Chaos Daemons- Approx 5000pts
Slaanesh Daemons- 1500pts, in progress
Khorne Daemons- 1500pts, in progress
Death Korps of Krieg- Plans being formulated.
---------------------------------------------------
High Elves- Approx 2000pts
Vampire Counts- Raising the dead once more 
   
Made in im
Nasty Nob on Warbike with Klaw





Liverpool

Temperature can be a big factor. Did you spray/leave them to dry somewhere cold?
   
Made in us
Longtime Dakkanaut





California

no i did it out on the pattio. its within the temp requirements and it wasnt raining.
   
Made in us
Basecoated Black




Atlanta, GA

I heard that humidity is what causes it.

 
   
Made in us
Posts with Authority





South Carolina (upstate) USA

Extreme humidity can cause it. As can many other things...a bad can, failure to properly mix (shake) the can.


Id say try some gloss on one of them, see if it takes it away.

Also will say Ive never used Army Painter, I use Testors Dulcote, and only Testors Dulcote...and Ive never had a problem with it. I did get the frosting problem the one (and only) time I tried a different product.

Whats my game?
Warmachine (Cygnar)
10/15mm mecha
Song of Blades & Heroes
Blackwater Gulch
X wing
Open to other games too






 
   
Made in de
Decrepit Dakkanaut







Army Painter Spray works differently than Citadel Spray. You have to do short close bursts, as the paint dries more quickly in the air, ending as solid paint bubbles on the miniature instead of an even layer if sprayed from too far away. And another thing: Army Painter Varnish attacks Army painter Quickshade, use Vallejo Matte Varnish instead.

This message was edited 1 time. Last update was at 2012/04/04 22:54:11


Hive Fleet Ouroboros (my Tyranid blog): http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/286852.page
The Dusk-Wraiths of Szith Morcane (my Dark Eldar blog): http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/364786.page
Kroothawk's Malifaux Blog http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/455759.page
If you want to understand the concept of the "Greater Good", read this article, and you never again call Tau commies: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Utilitarianism 
   
Made in us
Arch Magos w/ 4 Meg of RAM






There's an article here on how to fix that, you basically just spray with gloss, and then matte again (with a 1 day space between each coat)

Godforge custom 3d printing / professional level casting masters and design:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/GodForge 
   
Made in gb
Rogue Grot Kannon Gunna





Da Mekshop

Yeah, a coat of gloss will fix the frosting. Leave it for a at least a day or two to ensure it's thoroughly dried, and then respray the matt in light coats.

Make sure you shake the can well, and don't spray in humid or cold conditions. Don't allow the minis to dry in cold or humid conditions either and it should all be good.

   
Made in gb
Painting Within the Lines





Also, army painter anti-shine isn't really a varnish. It exists to knock the gloss shine off a protective gloss varnish or quick-shade coat and works best applied quite sparingly. Too much will not only look grey but can craze the underlying paint.

If all else fails, I managed to rescue a chaos land raider which had been turned almost white (curse you Humbrol satin varnish, curse you to hell and back) with a succession of paint washes in the base colour then re-highlighting it. Tedious, but better than the bin which is where it was headed when I realised I'd just junked 3 days worth of painting.

Those who live by the sword get shot by those who don't 
   
Made in us
Fresh-Faced New User




Courtesy of MajorTom11: http://www.dakkadakka.com/wiki/en/How_to_recover_from_a_Spray_Sealer_disaster
   
Made in ph
Utilizing Careful Highlighting





Manila, Philippines

Last final effort option: if all else fails, strip it and paint again. Then use paint-on varnish.


 
   
Made in us
Regular Dakkanaut





Santa Clara, CA

If the gloss trick fails there's one more trick you can try... Mohawk Super Blush Retarder. It's normally used for wood finishings but works wonders on acrylic varnish too. I had some wicked frosting happen on my Nightbringer (I just HAD to varnish it in the dead of winter on a rainy day). So through much searching I found this stuff at a cabinet supply shop near by.

Basically it's kinda a white/mineral spirits and works by breaking down your coat of varnish, allowing the small air bubbles that normally cause frosting to escape (removing the frosting) then re-dries nice and clear. You need to let this dry for at least 24 hours before handling the model and between coats (sometimes it takes 2-3 to get all the frosting gone). I've also used a Q-Tip with mineral spirits on it for localized areas but you need to be real careful with that because the Q-Tip can be a bit abbrasive and ruin your paint if you rub it too much.

I've never tried the gloss over matt frosting to fix it (this probably works best if the frosted coat is very thin and the bubbles topical) but this stuff does the trick. I definitely suggest you try this before resorting to a simple green bath for your green tide!



Good Luck!
   
Made in gb
Devastating Dark Reaper





Woo thats nasty someone i know spent ages building a £60 model they spray was hurrendous tried to strip the paint the whole hull cracked in half.

WE need the lion
1500
 
   
Made in gb
Stalwart Dark Angels Space Marine





Wallsend, Newcastle

I know hindsight is great, but whenever I use a new colour or varnish, I do one and wait for it to dry before committing all my dudes to it!

A bit useless now I know, but for next time...


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http://www.dakkadakka.com/gallery/user/50651-Spaced.html

Redemption in Death  
   
Made in gb
Regular Dakkanaut





Leicester, UK

Been there mate! Messed up a couple of Tau Battlesuits to frosting from GW's Purity Seal spray. I'm using paint-on varnish from now on.

   
Made in us
One Canoptek Scarab in a Swarm





Missouri, USA

Nowoo wrote:If the gloss trick fails there's one more trick you can try... Mohawk Super Blush Retarder. It's normally used for wood finishings but works wonders on acrylic varnish too. I had some wicked frosting happen on my Nightbringer (I just HAD to varnish it in the dead of winter on a rainy day). So through much searching I found this stuff at a cabinet supply shop near by.

Basically it's kinda a white/mineral spirits and works by breaking down your coat of varnish, allowing the small air bubbles that normally cause frosting to escape (removing the frosting) then re-dries nice and clear. You need to let this dry for at least 24 hours before handling the model and between coats (sometimes it takes 2-3 to get all the frosting gone). I've also used a Q-Tip with mineral spirits on it for localized areas but you need to be real careful with that because the Q-Tip can be a bit abbrasive and ruin your paint if you rub it too much.

I've never tried the gloss over matt frosting to fix it (this probably works best if the frosted coat is very thin and the bubbles topical) but this stuff does the trick. I definitely suggest you try this before resorting to a simple green bath for your green tide!



Good Luck!


I'll keep this in mind when I test out varnishing my whole army in a bit, thanks.
   
 
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