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I have just recently purchased an epic amOunt of paint from the new games workshop line. I definately have to say I do like the new paint, but as far as it being a revolution in painting of minatures I find that to be excessive. I do believe that they evolved their line of paint to put in the same elitist category as P3 or Vallejo. It has great coverage and I can't stress that enough. It is as smooth as butter and compared to the other paints I use, it is the cake, icing, and cherry. The paint is 3.70 a pot at my local meta and compared to the 2.99 or as much 3.99 for higher scale modeling paints(not including shipping for the higher end paints) it functions to equal or greater standards. Even though, I do not use them exclusively I am replacing a majority of my color with the new gw line. I would also like to add that I appreciate my local Memphis factory store associate for having such paitience with me while I let my artistic wing spread to full mass. Hope this will encourage people to move back to the gw line and really experience the "Evolution" of a company that has been as innovative as they have been fun.

I've tried some them. I've glad they expanded their colors and washes but I was surprised at how dry the "dry" colors are. Some of the pots seem more caky than thick and I have to drag a lot of paint off the brush before I can apply it to the model. As an airbrusher, I have paints from a variety of different vendors, so GW will always have it's place but I can't use them exclusively.

AK-Satchel wrote:I have to drag a lot of paint off the brush before I can apply it to the model.

Yep, that's how you dry brush. Hence the dry name on the paint.

I find that the shades and bases are the only ones worth using if you are used to the old style of paint.

Everything else Vallejo or Reaper do better and at more paint per dollar.

I'm really liking the new GW paints, especialy the high pigment 'base' colours. I can finaly bin the evil that is Catachan Green with its multiple coats to cover even a white basecoat.

Great White wrote:

AK-Satchel wrote:I have to drag a lot of paint off the brush before I can apply it to the model.

Yep, that's how you dry brush. Hence the dry name on the paint.

You're supposed to 'jab' at the paint with your dry brush and only pick up a little bit on the tip of the bristles. That way, you have a lot less to wipe off on the tissue before it's at the right drybrushing consistency, thus saving you money.

You can, I'm told, also water it down on a palette and it makes a decent paint. I believe the wonderful finnan uses Skink Blue a lot and loves the colour it brings to eldar power weapons.

But yes, you're not supposed to drag out gobbets of it just so you can wipe it off on some kitchen towel.

LadyCassandra wrote:

Great White wrote:

AK-Satchel wrote:I have to drag a lot of paint off the brush before I can apply it to the model.

Yep, that's how you dry brush. Hence the dry name on the paint.

You're supposed to 'jab' at the paint with your dry brush and only pick up a little bit on the tip of the bristles. That way, you have a lot less to wipe off on the tissue before it's at the right drybrushing consistency, thus saving you money.

You can, I'm told, also water it down on a palette and it makes a decent paint. I believe the wonderful finnan uses Skink Blue a lot and loves the colour it brings to eldar power weapons.

But yes, you're not supposed to drag out gobbets of it just so you can wipe it off on some kitchen towel.

Yeah I also like to water them down to use like a normal paint, they are good for this mainly because the dry colours are all very bright.

well, they have revolutionized the painting aspect of the game in the sense that they have made most techniques utilized to paint miniatures now available to even a beginner painter. For example, with the release of dry brush paints, now a player can buy a bottle of this and its made easy for them to take advantage of this technique.

Personally, I like the new lineup. I would have liked to seen GW keep the previous colors and expand on them rather than completely change the mixtures and names. Most of those names have been around since I was in high school (10 years ago). My favorite series of the new paints are the washes. These really are a breakthrough for painters who used to struggle using washes. The pigment gathers perfectly to replicate shaded areas of the model. The only other part of the new line I wanted to see changed was the bottle itself.....worst design they ahve released to date. If GW is reading this, change to droppers already!!!

The original company who made citadel paints stopped making them and they have never owned the rights to the colour mixes before hence why every paint change they couldn't keep the same colours from the old range as well as the names because they didn't have the rights to either.

I myself love the new paint range as I find it clings to the model a whole lot easier and the white is amazing compared to what it was b4

I really like the new line. It does seem like the Lahmian Medium they released makes your paint dry out quicker, and I use a wet pallet.

I really like the new line. It's on par with Reaper or P3. Reaper Master Class is still my favorite, but GW is easier to come by where I live.

Merc146 wrote:The original company who made citadel paints stopped making them and they have never owned the rights to the colour mixes before hence why every paint change they couldn't keep the same colours from the old range as well as the names because they didn't have the rights to either

No. GW has changed paint manufacturers before and kept basically the same colors. The differences are due to different formulations rather than not owning the rights to a color.

inquisitorlewis wrote:I really like the new line. It does seem like the Lahmian Medium they released makes your paint dry out quicker, and I use a wet pallet.

I've managed to stay away from the new line because most of my paints are holding up. I'm not familiar with the Medium; what's it's "job" in the new line?

I love the new paints.

Ceramite white: Covers in 1-2 coats over black, very slightly chalky. Very Good!

I bought some recently and I am simply blown away by the quality of the stuff. The dry paints have impressed the hell out of me to be honest. I won some of those old washes when they first came out, they were so terrible I gave them away, I preferred the old inks GW made, and still have some. But the new shading, the base paints and the dry impressed me immensely. Normally i paint in layered highlights, but nowadays with so much more important stuff to spend time on and such a backlog of models to get through, nevermind my new 40k ork army, i needed a faster and better way to paint. This new GW paint range came at the perfect time and my initial test run has impressed me immensely, as did their finally useful white dwarf edition that has some lessons in it. All in all, colour me highly chuffed!!!

Ghaz wrote:

Merc146 wrote:The original company who made citadel paints stopped making them and they have never owned the rights to the colour mixes before hence why every paint change they couldn't keep the same colours from the old range as well as the names because they didn't have the rights to either

No. GW has changed paint manufacturers before and kept basically the same colors. The differences are due to different formulations rather than not owning the rights to a color.

That's what I ment

Gavin Thorne wrote:

inquisitorlewis wrote:I really like the new line. It does seem like the Lahmian Medium they released makes your paint dry out quicker, and I use a wet pallet.

I've managed to stay away from the new line because most of my paints are holding up. I'm not familiar with the Medium; what's it's "job" in the new line?

The medium is a thinner or similar. Supposed to give a smoother application. At least that's what the fellow at GW told me.

Maybe someone more aware will chime in on this.

The new paints intrigue me. Of course, they had to be announced after I spent quite a bit on the old ones... anyway.

A bit of a threadjack, but doesn't seem like a big enough reason to make a thread; anybody know what new paints are good for Salamanders? The fact that they're called "Citadel Paints" makes it really difficult to find any sort of tutorial or mention of them without just finding old stuff.

Obviously there's the standard Snot Green (Warpstone Glow) and stuff, but I mean drys, and bases and glazes and all those other fancy things.

inquisitorlewis wrote:

Gavin Thorne wrote:

inquisitorlewis wrote:I really like the new line. It does seem like the Lahmian Medium they released makes your paint dry out quicker, and I use a wet pallet.

I've managed to stay away from the new line because most of my paints are holding up. I'm not familiar with the Medium; what's it's "job" in the new line?

The medium is a thinner or similar. Supposed to give a smoother application. At least that's what the fellow at GW told me.

Maybe someone more aware will chime in on this.

Thanks for the info. I'd rather spend the $4 on something like liquitex's matte medium. I currently use a mixture of the matte medium, slo-dri, and distilled water to thin most of my paints and find that it works incredibly well. Also, I can use the mixture with colored ink and a bit of flow aid to make Les Bursley's Wash formulas.

I'm running out of Chaos Black and will have to pick up a replacement soon, so it looks like I'm going to have to try the new lines unless I switch to Army Painter, Vallejo, or Reaper.

Xeriapt wrote:

LadyCassandra wrote:

Great White wrote:

AK-Satchel wrote:I have to drag a lot of paint off the brush before I can apply it to the model.

Yep, that's how you dry brush. Hence the dry name on the paint.

You're supposed to 'jab' at the paint with your dry brush and only pick up a little bit on the tip of the bristles. That way, you have a lot less to wipe off on the tissue before it's at the right drybrushing consistency, thus saving you money.

You can, I'm told, also water it down on a palette and it makes a decent paint. I believe the wonderful finnan uses Skink Blue a lot and loves the colour it brings to eldar power weapons.

But yes, you're not supposed to drag out gobbets of it just so you can wipe it off on some kitchen towel.

Yeah I also like to water them down to use like a normal paint, they are good for this mainly because the dry colours are all very bright.

I was referring to the clumping nature of the "dry" paint; the consistency between dry pots varies and at least for me, I feel there is a lot of waste when I prep the brush before applying paint to the model. It's just going to take some getting used to.
Watering it down is a neat idea, I'll have to experiment with that, thanks for sharing.

For switching; I can personally recommend Privateer's "P3" paints. From what little experience of them I have, I've been really impressed. However, the advent of the new GW paints kinda curbstomped my aspirations of switching wholly to P3. I have yet to significantly test the new paints, so I can't decide! I hear so many good reviews, though...

I've noticed some paints like leadbelcher come apart quickly, so make sure you shake it before using it every time.

I'm usually extremely skeptical of anything GW puts out there for modeling, painting, etc. I must say though, these new paints are pretty awesome.

I really like the Dry paint series. I feel like anytime I've had to drybrush with a paint of the typical acrylic consistency, my dry brushing looks cloudy and fuzzy in a way. I was totally surprised with the consistency of the paint (like some of the other folks here), but I gave it a shot and I am pretty happy with the results. I'm working on a Dwarf army right now, and since Dwarfs are mainly armor, beards, and sleeves, having the Necron base as a drybrush basing option for the armor has made things much less painful.

The inks seem okay, but I don't think they put out anything better than what Vallejo makes. Same thing with the layers, and I really feel like you have to water those down quite a bit to make them worth anything.

Another interesting idea are the texture paints. In my initial order of paint I didn't grab any of those. Since I liked the results with the new line, I ordered some more, including the texture variety so I guess I'll find out when it arrives.

All in all, its an improvement over the other crap that was made in china. The new line is made in the UK, but how long that will be the case, I have no idea...


Automatically Appended Next Post:

Frozen Ocean wrote:For switching; I can personally recommend Privateer's "P3" paints. From what little experience of them I have, I've been really impressed. However, the advent of the new GW paints kinda curbstomped my aspirations of switching wholly to P3. I have yet to significantly test the new paints, so I can't decide! I hear so many good reviews, though...

P3 is what I was primarily using prior to the new GW paints. P3 stuff is very good, and it doesn't separate as quickly as most citadel paints do.

Thanks for the posting. I was hoping that I would get a good response and I am impressed. Addressing the guy above talking about mixing his own personal serums for painting, you are obviously above the normal player and should be personally mixing these paints for money with perfect formulas. I am not trying to bash but I was looking for a general consensus from the average man as to whether there are better options out there. Not to open up a lab in the back of my house. But thanks to all who invested time giving me opinions as to whether I was buying the wrong paints or if I need to invest more. Lol

Great White wrote:

AK-Satchel wrote:I have to drag a lot of paint off the brush before I can apply it to the model.

Yep, that's how you dry brush. Hence the dry name on the paint.

I believe he's talking about the chunkiness of it. He most likely knows how to dry brush, he's got an airbrush.

I recently tried Vallejo Matt Black for undercoating - I have to say I will never look back now and will buy vallejo from now on. You get more for your money and I love the quality.
It also seems like it is less prone to drying out. I also find it's much easier to mix due to having a different amount of pigment compared to citadel. And it seems to water down easier using less paint (again I assume different and superior pigment content).

The new paints are an absolute rip-off so I wont be supporting that.

fire4effekt wrote:

Great White wrote:

AK-Satchel wrote:I have to drag a lot of paint off the brush before I can apply it to the model.

Yep, that's how you dry brush. Hence the dry name on the paint.

I believe he's talking about the chunkiness of it. He most likely knows how to dry brush, he's got an airbrush.

Firstly, I don't see how owning an airbrush means you know how to drybrush, especially with the new Dry range, but maybe that's just me.

Secondly, I still think he's doing it wrong. The dry paints are of a thick, mousse-like quality, yes? The trick to these is to not scoop the paint out of the pot at all (unless you want to thin them down to use as a layer of course). Instead, simply poke the mousse with your brush. This puts a tiny amount of paint on the brush and then you barely have to drag any paint off the brush at all. In fact, if you're doing it right, it probably won't even look like you have any paint on your brush before you start wiping it off on the paper.

If he's dragging a lot of paint off the brush, then he's either using his brush to scoop paint out of the pot, by definition, or he's sinking it straight into the mousse and yanking it out with large gobbets still on it. Either of these is not the way to use the new Dry range, as was taught to me by the GW staff when I went in for a try. I have to assume that they're working off the printed materials on how to use it. The idea is to only get a bit on the brush at a time, which you can now do since it is so thick.

If your Dry paint is not a thick mousse and is instead clumpy or hard, then return it and get a new one, it's gone off.

The only one of the new range I have tried so far is the Druchii Violet shade so I have nothing really to compare it to, but it was much nicer to use than my Ogryn Flesh wash.

I'm sure that the Ogryn Flesh wash I have got has something wrong with it though because it absolutely stinks. I have to hold my breath when I am using it, it has such an awful smell to it!

Smells like real Ogryn!

DAHRRR