Blackadder's attempt to build the BOLS Warlord Titan

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**AnUnearthlyChilde**

Curiouser and curiouser...

So with the fact your building this articulated, does that mean your going to have pistons that slide in conjunction with the hips?

**The_Blackadder**

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:Curiouser and curiouser...

So with the fact your building this articulated, does that mean your going to have pistons that slide in conjunction with the hips?

I'm going to have to send you back for remedial study of the Lucie Thread.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/dakkaforum/posts/list/660/226296.page

All the cylinders and pistons on Lucie [Right down to and including the 1/8th inch long (3 Millimeter) cylinders/pistons on Lucie's toes] slide in and out as the legs/toes flex.

And these will as well.

Quote from page 23 of the Lucie thread:

The_Blackadder wrote:This is a good opportunity to point out some minor flaws in FW's otherwise beautiful design.

Note that the toes do not twist to maintain full contact with the ground in this particular pose. Arrow D

This is because there is not sufficient gap 'Arrow C' between the toe bases to allow this twist.

FW acknowledged this in the base of the toe design but didn't splay the toes sufficiently to allow for it purely for asthetic purposes as when I duplicated the toes I found allowing for the twist made the toes look ungainly.

Note the piston position at 'arrow A'; t is fully compressed. At 'arrow B1' it is fully extended likewise at the 'arrow B2' the piston is fully extended but the toe does not contact the ground. This is because the cylinder is too short for the piston travel.

Reworking to allow for these imperfections would distort the look of the toes too much and change the overall appearance of the model but I have seen poses on the net that discounted these restrictions and gave the most ludicrous appearance to the stance.

Note that the stance in the crushed Rhino pose show a piston extended to such a degree that it is at an angle to the cylinder.

Also the foot pad angle is such that the ball has disengaged from the socket in the gimbal joint.

While a dramatic pose this clearly is beyond the capabilities of the mechanism.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/at/at2/2010/9/13/52727033489d42f311cadca2f39dd6c9_6825.jpg

http://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/at/at2/2010/9/13/d6c4433c628438fcf0e6a2598c27df12_6825.jpg

**AnUnearthlyChilde**

All I can say is wow... you really have your work cut out for you!!!

**The_Blackadder**

This is what I like about the Dakka forum. People seem genuinely interested in the meat and potatoes of building.

Fortunately all the leg work (groan!) has been accomplished in the building of Lucie; if anything due to the much larger size of the model this should be an easier build. Plus the toes on this Warlord are pretty basic in concept (Try as I might to make them as complex as I could.)

Just to refresh the memory the following is a quote from page 22 of the Lucie thread:

The_Blackadder wrote:Just to keep this thread alive and to add to the "How to" portion of this dissertation I whipped up a diagram of how to make the mount gimbals on the end of hydraulic cylinder and the piston.

The red objects are plastic bead headed straight pins (metal would be better). You drill a recess into the rod end head and insert the straight pin. Glue on the cap and drill an tight hole into the mount plate. Repeat the process on the other end and voila a gimbal mounted telescoping hydraulic cylinder. These have a reltively long travel and are used on the ankle gimbals and the waist to hip gimbals and are primarily used for steering and adjusting the feet to variations in the terrain.

The other style mounting for the hydraulic cylinders on the Warhound is the double rod end. This is the most common mounting and consists of a pin or axle through the mount end of the cylinder and a pin through the rod end of the piston. These are heavy duty cylinders and actually support the weight of the vehicle. They have a very short travel and are thick in cross section.

The toes use a variation on the rod end mount called a base mounted cylinder or trunnion mount.

http://www.dakkadakka.com/s/i/at/at2/2010/7/19/853930497cea5cc6704f377e42ffc6a0_6825.jpg

**The_Blackadder**

I always regretted not providing Lucie with interior detail but the foam core poster-board internal structure precluded that. I wasn't sufficiently adept at scratch modeling when I started Lucie she being my first scratch model. I was more concerned with the overall external appearance and not fully aware of the possibilities of scratch construction.

Since this model will be entirely built of styrene and must have a light weight internal structure anyway there is no reason not to attempt internal detailing. I hope to have a fully detailed hull and cockpit probably loosely based on the Reaver interior.

There is a lot more room in the Warlord titan enough for several decks; planning this seems like it could be a lot of fun. Of course the exterior hull panels will have to be removable to view much of the interior but maintain structural integrity when closed up. That may pose a bit of a problem but I just had a thought whilst typing this...... Why not a stack of decks with overlapping exterior plates to maintain the alignment when assembled.......... That might well be the way to go instead of hinged panels.

......... And the Blackadder sinks further into the realm of obsessive compulsive dementia.

**AnUnearthlyChilde**

I wouldn't have hinged the panel reguardless. personally I'd have mag attached, tis far easier imo but also it saves on chips and the such.

I love where your going with this also, can't wait to see more!!!

**The_Blackadder**

I threw together a front view of the compartments earlier this morning right after I posted my reply just so I could get a feel for how the various areas might be arranged.

Surprisingly it all fits and each compartment has about an 11 ft ceiling.

My dementia is serving me well.

Naturally the cockpit will be forward of the bridge and is not represented in this diagram.

**AnUnearthlyChilde**

You Sir, have far too much time on your hands

Don't forget that Warlord's have 4 reactors as well, as i only count two generators.

Also, what loadout are you planning on having for the four weapons systems?

**The_Blackadder**

I'm toying with the idea of stacking the decks like a child's stacking toy about the center pivot post:

This should afford ease in viewing the internal detail.

There are so many interlocking armour plates that alignment should be relatively easy to maintain plus there is the added bonus of modular construction which should facilitate modification and repair not to mention adding lighting at a later date as opposed to wiring it as I build.

**AnUnearthlyChilde**

thats quite a simple and innovative design Black, go for it!

**mxwllmdr**

I was considering the same concept for when I start mine, but I think that it would be just as easy to do one large removeab;e panel across the back. I also, had a different take on the interior of the Warlord as far as floor plans are concerned. I have not seen any on line to use as reference. Have you, Black?

**AnUnearthlyChilde**

hmmm, just had a odd idea for the central peg for the floors to rack up on.... how about making the peg as a central reactor that goes through the floors? kind of like the dilithium crystal generator in Star Trek, but on a larger scale.

**mxwllmdr**

Thats a nice idea. The detail could carry upward from floor to floor and be a unifying aspect to each floor...

**AnUnearthlyChilde**

woot, for once I've had a good idea... And it didn't hurt my head either

**mxwllmdr**

Every dog has his day, Childe......

**AnUnearthlyChilde**

Cat... I'm a cat... eeeeesh some people know how to insult

**mxwllmdr**

I try.....

Black, how is that hip gimball setup working?

Man, I do so love this but am so that much more happy that I didn't try to make my warhounds articulate. I did it for the posing aspect on a few but learned it was not necessary for my purposes. I cannot wait to see this guy finished.....

**AnUnearthlyChilde**

I know what you mean Max, Blacks thread genuinely gets me giddy to see and hear new things about.

he is one of the masters, like Michealangelo or De Vinci or even Van Gogh!!!

**mxwllmdr**

He is why I started little less than two years ago....

Stated for truth.....

**The_Blackadder**

mxwllmdr wrote:He is why I started little less than two years ago....

Stated for truth.....

Did I read this right; I was the motivation for getting you started in scratch building?

And now you have surpassed me in creativity and output............ Hmmmm I guess it's time to hang it up and make way for newer blood. :(

Anyone want an ear?

**mxwllmdr**

I certainly have not surpassed you in any endeavor. Not in creativity, cleanliness of build or detail to name a very short list......

I fail to see why you think that.

I have certainly learned a lot but I am still in awe at the pure engineering that you put in. Stop saying those things, Black. You are still master in this DakkaDojo.......

Automatically Appended Next Post:
I do appreciate that sentiment, though.....

Automatically Appended Next Post:
Ok, so maybe I got you in output but output isn't everything buy any means...

**The_Blackadder**

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:hmmm, just had a odd idea for the central peg for the floors to rack up on.... how about making the peg as a central reactor that goes through the floors? kind of like the dilithium crystal generator in Star Trek, but on a larger scale.

Smaller scale I believe since the Enterprise was on the order of 300 meters in length. I believe I'll keep the center pivot opaque as it camouflages a big nasty 3/8 inch threaded rod. This will run to the floor of the bridge and tie the lower levels together. There will be consoles and stations around the center conduit with a few crew members/servoskulls manning the stations.

**mxwllmdr**

Yes, 300 meters in length but all interior shots showed the reactor not really more than three stories tall and about 20 feet in diameter...

Shouldn't be to much of a stretch.....

No, wait, I am thinking of the Warp engines.....

Continue on, Black....

**The_Blackadder**

Warp engines Void generators it all has to do with dumping stuff into another dimension; I wonder who's dumping on us?

Right , now to answer your query on the pelvic block, I just finished reinforcing the top and bottom of the block with 3mm scrap plastic which will give plenty of strength to this all important area as small as it is it must take all the weight and movement from the above structure and also the legs.

Theres a 10 inch 3/8 ths diameter inch bolt threaded through 'Tee' nuts top and bottom and the for to aft hip gimbals are mounted with 10-32 screws through 'Tee' nuts as well. There is a 7/16 dia. inch tube inside of a 1/2 dia. inch tube as a compression spacer that the pivot rod runs through and the whole is strong enough to stand on if you don't weigh 18 stone.

Now that I've taken the pictures I can seal the gimbals in under their cap plates and the pelvis will be completed.

**monkeyh**

I'm so glad you've got OCD.

**AnUnearthlyChilde**

Monkey, being OCD is a curse more than a blessing

**mxwllmdr**

How did you manage getting the tee's into the wooden gimbals? I assume they are wooden from past knowledge of your techniques and their color.....

**monkeyh**

AnUnearthlyChilde wrote:Monkey, being OCD is a curse more than a blessing

Not when somebody else has it and uses it to make a titan!

**AnUnearthlyChilde**

lols, you don't get to see or live with the negative sides

and coming from someone with ocd, its terrible... I can't leave the house without checking the lock three times and even then, I end up going back to just try the front door to be sure. everything has to have a place, and be in lines (see my nids in my blog for that one) I wish I could do something about it, but I've always been this way.

But I do agree Blacks possitive side to his OCD is amazing.

**The_Blackadder**

mxwllmdr wrote:How did you manage getting the tee's into the wooden gimbals? I assume they are wooden from past knowledge of your techniques and their color.....

Well first you plant the seed and put the tee on top of the planting..............

Then you've gotta be really patient.......

Or you just cut the ball in half insert the tee and glue it back together.