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I didn't change my paint scheme. I am still having them as AoA. Just that I painted so many of them in Ultramarine scheme that now I have to redo them all. :(

I am getting there though. Soon I will have enough painted models for a full SW count-as, SM or DA.

Awesome progress on your horses there. I like what you did with the shields so get different patterns on them.

leohart wrote:I didn't change my paint scheme. I am still having them as AoA. Just that I painted so many of them in Ultramarine scheme that now I have to redo them all. :(

I am getting there though. Soon I will have enough painted models for a full SW count-as, SM or DA.

Awesome progress on your horses there. I like what you did with the shields so get different patterns on them.

Ah, I see. You did have a ton of blue models painted what with that bike army and straight out of the box ultramarine blue. They were nicely painted, though you are doing a phenomenal job with the Bone White scheme.

I'm trying different things with the shields, they all need to be unique which is annoying, but requires some creativity.

More work done on more Bretonnian horses. Their color patterns are really whats driving the heraldry colors of my Knights, which will be primarily boltgun metal with mithril silver highlights and some gold accents outside of the heraldic colors for the pennants, ribbons and tabard.







Had some extra scorched brown so I added accents to several Pegasus models to match up with the winged paint job on the griffon model's wings.



Speaking of Heraldry, I needed to work on a couple more for the Red / Yellow paint schemed horses and here's my process with the painters tape again:



clipped the painters tape to a vertical cardboard piece (I have it so I can slide it in and out of the cardboard box I use to prime in) and then primed the shields Red or Yellow as needed:



This is an older Pegasus model I need to clean up and work on


Not sure what model this is, but its not a Bretonnian horse, I think it might be a Dark Elf or Dragon Prince High Elf Horse mount.


As always C&C is welcome!

I thought it might be the original Green Knight horse, but it doesn't appear to be. Perhaps a Dogs of War character horse?

I don't think it is a green knight horse since it should have green dribbly stuff all over it. As long as it looks good, who cares where it is from :-)

Briancj wrote:I thought it might be the original Green Knight horse, but it doesn't appear to be. Perhaps a Dogs of War character horse?

Its not the Green Knight horse, I've got that model. I have this one horse and 3 heads for it, so I'm not sure. The horses face guard is shaped like a horse skull and I've got some old metal Dragon Prince legs, but that could be from something else. It might be a Dogs of War Character horse, I've got Lucrezza Bella Donna.

Still doing some digging.

I went to check on the shields:


You can see the crossed pattern


Now the Yellow shields need to be a unique red & yellow pattern.


Here's the current set of shields created using painters tape. It looks like its easier to do larger areas than to try smaller thinner designs. I'll keep trying them out, but it looks like some clean up will be needed for these.

Btw, you should look at some plasticard stencil for the patterns. I think it would be very useful.

Take a look at this

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=2600018-gws&utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+TheGamesWorkshopBlogEN+%28What%27s+New+Today+%40+Games+Workshop%29

leohart wrote:Btw, you should look at some plasticard stencil for the patterns. I think it would be very useful.

Take a look at this

http://www.games-workshop.com/gws/wnt/blog.jsp?pid=2600018-gws&utm_source=feedburner&utm_medium=feed&utm_campaign=Feed%3A+TheGamesWorkshopBlogEN+%28What%27s+New+Today+%40+Games+Workshop%29

I have been hunting down plasticard stencils, searching hobby lobby and michaels. I can find flowers, crosses and fleur de lis, but not much else. They need to seal tight to the model or shield if I'm going to be spraying through them.

Those Brets look beautiful, the checker pattern would be tough, the swirls are freehand so not so difficult. Lots of work to do to get these guys finished.

So a little more work has commenced, some more shields and some hash mark work on the horse mounts using fine point sharpies.

Nothing new here, same painters tape techniques to get some different colors onto a lot of models quickly.


You can see if the painters tape doesn't have a tight seal on the edges, the spray primer leaks through. I'm pretty sure this would be the same if an airbrush was used. I ran out of the bright blue for the men at arms shield, so I went with the army painter space wolf grey, we'll see how this men at arms does when fielded with the rest.



The cross hatching done with sharpie fine point. I'm trying different things constantly and this seemed like it would be a good idea. The red shows up well on the yellow, but the yellow doesn't show up at all on the red side. I'd have to use a variety of thin layers of paint to cross hatch up to yellow. I think a third darker color might work better over both, but I can't think of one other than blue that might work.




The blue shows up darker on the red, I might have to go over the lines with paint.


On a side and future note, I've acquired the beginnings of a Dark Eldar army,

I had these 5 sprues of ancient Dark Eldar Warriors:


I don't know why I picked up the DE, I got caught up in the GW price upsell craze and just grabbed something that wasn't a space marine army and that I might field at a future date.. some day..

So I grabbed a Batallion:


And, then a Raider:


Then I went hunting and grabbed this:


For not so much and now I have more than 2K worth of Dark Eldar that will sit until I'm ready to do something with it. I wasn't even thinking about another army and now I've got close to 3k worth of DE Its just going to sit.. like my CSM, IG, & SW.

Oh and I also picked up a Skaven Battleforce box and the Skaven half of Island of Blood may soon be mine.

I've got problems, I'm addicted to plastic.

:p

I think you do have problems. You are acquiring too fast for (albeitly awesome) painting speed.

The GW price increase is bound to happen. Just keep on buying used to give them no more money

leohart wrote:I think you do have problems. You are acquiring too fast for (albeitly awesome) painting speed.

The GW price increase is bound to happen. Just keep on buying used to give them no more money

Its true. I do need to slow down, I've got several hundred models to build and paint and I need to get some real games in. The GW price increase will happen next week some time. Its going to suck, but models will still be able to be found at a wide variety of places easily.

I did some work on the Archers or Bretonnian Bowmen, a lot of them have advanced further than these two images, it was warmachine / hordes night at Fat Ogre so when people showed up I stopped hobbying and started gaming.

I mostly added some red to a lot of the models and then hit the metal bits with boltgun metal. You won't see the boltgun in either of these images, but in a future one you will. This is 105 Archer models, to go with my 100+ Men at Arms models. together without added points they'd only equal 1100 points out of a normally 3000 pt game. I'm debating fielding the archers with flaming at 100 models for 1 long two rank model unit at 605pts, I think it would be ridiculous, but fun. That or 2 50 man model units with the same two ranks, 30" range and 50 arrows.. could do some damage.

I use my archers in block of 10 and they are cannon fodder/redirector. Those flea-ridden peasants are best used that way.

Hehe . Flaming arrows are actually not so useful. The time that you see people with strong Regen is rather far and few in between.

leohart wrote:I use my archers in block of 10 and they are cannon fodder/redirector. Those flea-ridden peasants are best used that way.
Hehe . Flaming arrows are actually not so useful. The time that you see people with strong Regen is rather far and few in between.

The peasants are simply there for size, If I ever wanted to play a historical game with GW Heroic sized models I'd have enough or a large Storm of Magic game. In the two games of WFB I've played, they've not proven their worth. I'm hoping that new Bretonnian book drops and they get a better WS or BS, something to make it worthwhile. As it stands I might just drop them and field a unit of Knight Errants.

I've hit a snag in my painting, I'm taking a break to build some stuff
Specifically this: http://www.worldworksgames.com/store/index.php?view=product&product=24

The ship is going to be big, close to 2' to 3' if not longer.

Description
SeaWorks: Maiden of the High Seas

Multi-deck System:

The sterncastle, forecastle and main hull are all independent sections. Each has a roof that is easily removed to access interior elements with ease. Combat and general movement can take place on all decks simultaneously without the need to re-order other sections. The lower decks even accommodates a number of ornately detailed free floating walls, allowing you to create practically any interior hull layout.
Masts and Sails:

With the Maiden's unique mast and yard design users can configure their ships sails in any number of ways in "real time". Simply drop on the sail of your choice to change the look and feel of the ship. Even show "raised sail states" with a number of raised sail designs. A great way to give players a sense of what state the sails are in during a bad stretch of weather

These are shots of what it should look like once finished:






And, here's some shots of the progress:

Thats a 12" steel ruler for perspective & 3 sheets of 8.5"x11" cardstock


Thats a 12" steel ruler for perspective & 3 sheets of 8.5"x11" cardstock. Each piece has to be cut out precisely to the instructions.


You can see a ruler and a Dr. Pepper 20 oz bottle for reference, this is when I'm about to apply it to the foam board for strengthening.





I had messed up and cut the foam board into two sections, when these two pieces were meant to be glued down to a single piece of foam board. I've stuck toothpicks into the center of each, pushed them together with glue for support.


Each section of this model comes within its own folder and printable sections, there are precise instructions for each section and on each print out it it has a label, and it gives you a quick guide with pictures of where to cut, where to fold and where to score the design to be able to fold it better. These are some really quality designed card stock terrain pieces.

I'm using foam board to help strengthen the model in several key places, both per the instructions and in a couple of places where I think it will help. I'm using a couple of different glues and some tape on the underside of the pieces as well.

I had sent this out to Kinkos to get it printed out and it wasn't until I had agreed to and started the job that they told me the price was going to be $1.50 per sheet since it is a card stock color print job. There's more than 60 sheets to this model. O.o So its a significant investment.

In retrospect, some of the pieces like the decking could have been printed on regular paper. I'm gluing the decking to foamboard, so it doesn't need the resiliency of card stock. The side hulls do need to be card stock as do several other pieces, but a lot of pieces could be done on regular paper and then glued to the foam board.

I recommend studying the designs and making a judgement call on what needs to be printed out on what stock of paper. Also, shop around and get prices before you go to a printer.

Fancy. Make sure you do some of those buildings as well. They will go swell beefing up the terrain over at Fat Ogre for their upcoming tournament.

geez hugh...those brets looks awesome! were you a factory owner in the industrial revolution in your past life or something? you churn out difficult to paint minis like nothing! really cool (:

leohart wrote:Fancy. Make sure you do some of those buildings as well. They will go swell beefing up the terrain over at Fat Ogre for their upcoming tournament.

Haha. I might just do that. I've got a lot of options and I've learned a few things from the Card Stock terrain build on this ship. Speaking of which, I need to update this blog.

Antman677 wrote:geez hugh...those brets looks awesome! were you a factory owner in the industrial revolution in your past life or something? you churn out difficult to paint minis like nothing! really cool (:

Anthony, Congrats again on your paint wins at Lock & Load, always great to see your work.

I'm not sure of my past lives, but I can crank out batch paint jobs like they're nothing. I tend to cheat a lot with colored primers, painters tape and some paint pens of a variety of colors. I also have created several washes from pickle jars (cleaned) then filled with a color like Chaos Black or a Scorched Brown, then the jar is filled with distilled water, shaken and bam instant wash for models in a container large enough for me to dip them or for me to use a large brush to cover the entire model.

You may have seen me paint my Warmachine Cygnar models while sitting at Aero Hobbies in Santa Monica, 20+ Long gunners and 20+ Trenchers in about 5 days of work, so about 50 models. all assembly line painted.

But yes, I can churn out a 2k army for 40K or something similar in about a month.

You and Leohart above take your time and do great work, your models really pop. My stuff is merely table top ready, lol.

haha you should think about doing some commission work! im sure there are people who need armies knocked out really quick there is a market for tabletop for sure

Antman677 wrote:haha you should think about doing some commission work! im sure there are people who need armies knocked out really quick there is a market for tabletop for sure

I have done commission work, the Red Orks are one example of my work and are in play locally. I finished a 2000pt Ork Force in less than 30 days, the guy took a month extra to pay me, right down to my deadline and that left a sour taste in my wallet to twist a phrase.

I've done work for http://www.PaintingManiacs.com as well as some terrain building and painting for local gamers and hobby shops.

Still if I wasn't busy with my own work I would definitely consider another commission. I just need to finish a lot of my stuff too.

Hugh, ya got good stuff, just keep on painting bro.

leohart wrote:Hugh, ya got good stuff, just keep on painting bro.

Thanks Dude, I will keep painting! Just let me finish this Pirate ship, lol.

Anchor pieces, meant to be folded over and glued together and then cut out along the outline.



The front hull pieces. These are meant to be cut out and folded along the center line. I used a scoring tool and a steel ruler to help create the fold lines throughout the model. Elmers spray craft glue was used to get an even coating across the two halves of the folded piece of card stock. I cut vertical pieces of plasticard and glued them to one side of the model for extra durability.


Cutting out the front hull pieces and then folding/gluing them together using a spray adhesive.


This is the front hull sides glued together before attaching them to the base of the model.



You start at the outside triangles and alternate gluing them down to the base of the model. I used super glue for this portion. I felt it would add to the strength of the bond.



This is a piece designed to be cut out and used to cover the inside base of the hulls glued connections, all those individual triangles. This still needed some more cutting out of the excess white space.


You can see some of the tools I used, paperclips, elmers spray craft glue, scoring tool, xacto knife and the black sharpie was used for edging the white portions of the model, i.e. the cut edges, the fold lines. Basically anywhere that showed white.





Keeping everything organized was a must. While a lot of the pages are labeled, some are not. Once cut from the page, the label becomes separate from the piece. I used the paperclips not just to help hold the pieces together when they were drying, but also to hold the label pieces to the cut piece.


You're going to get a lot of waste i.e. paper, foamboard cuttings, cut plasticard etc. Keep it to the side you might need it to reinforce a piece later or for a different smaller piece of something.


Steel Ruler/Straight edge and scoring tool. The scoring tool just needs to be a blunt rounded piece you can run along the paper to crease it without cutting the paper.


This is an interior wall that is designed to be used as a support for the structure. I figured adding a piece of plasticard in between the card stock would help reinforce and support the model above.




These are hull side pieces and are meant to be cut out, scored along the middle for a fold line and then glued to the base pieces separately.

I thought that wasn't the best idea. I cut out one long sheet of plasticard, glued all the hull pieces together, folded them over the plasticard, cut the plasticard to fit the hull shape and then glued it all together for a sturdy stable piece.












two walls completed, time to glue them to the model! Oh and caffeine, another crucial tool for the build.


Plasticard supported walls and caffeine, progress as of 31 May, 2012. Tools of the trade, steel straight edge, black permanent markers for edging, Xacto knife and scoring tool and a varieties of glue and tape.


Plasticard supported walls and caffeine, progress as of 31 May, 2012 a buddy allowed me to utilize his laptop so we could refer to the directions for each section of the ship building process. His assistance and help is helping to speed this process along. You can see the tape and clear elmers as well as the spray adhesive elmers glue I'm using on this project.




Plasticard supported walls both hulls are attached, progress as of 31 May, 2012 laying every thing out to get a visual of things to come.



Rear hull pieces which will be reinforced with plasticard cut to fit.



This is plastruct strips, you can purchase plasticard in a variety of shapes and sizes. These can be acquired at a wide variety of hobby shops in various sizes and shapes, though your best bet would be to find a train hobby/modeling store for larger sized pieces.







A shot of the ship with the rear hull piece attached with both regular and superglue. The plasticard pieces don't affect the size of the model since they're thin, yet sturdy.


These are internal wall brace pieces. Again, I cut plasticard and shaped it to the piece to help support the weight of the model above it. The sheet only has six supports and I'm debating whether I should go get another sheet printed for additional supports.


I made a template plasticard insert wall piece and then used a sharpie to draw the pieces to shape from the left over plastruct strip. These still required shaping with a hobby knife after they had been glued into the card stock model internal wall brace piece.



A shot of the internal wall brace piece glued into the side and bottom of the model. I'm using the seamed board pieces as guidelines for lining up the wall braces.


A shot of all six of the internal wall brace pieces glued and then taped into the side and bottom of the model. I'm using the seamed board pieces as guidelines for lining up the wall braces.


A larger shot of the model as it currently sits the morning 1 June, 2012.


A larger shot of the model as it currently sits the morning 1 June, 2012. This shows the floor pieces sitting inside on the support pieces. You can see how well the center long floor sits on the supports.


The internal mast support pieces, I cut plasticard to fit inside the sides of each of these for additional support. The mast is designed to slide down the hexagonal holes through the entire ship. these are the base pieces.



Each of the internal mast supports must be glued down to the base of the ships lower hull in the correct manner, due to the hard edges of the hexagonal holes through the foamboard above, there isn't much room for error.




Each of the internal mast supports must be glued down to the base of the ships lower hull in the correct manner, due to the hard edges of the hexagonal holes through the foamboard above, there isn't much room for error.

Also pictured is the plasticard supported wall piece for the forecastle base.


These were cut, folded, glued, then the white part was mostly cut out or to shape as needed. These pieces seemed to be more aesthetic in the design and go on the sides of the forecastle.




Progress on the ship, checking the sturdiness of the design and working my way towards the main and upper decks.


You can see the two 12" rulers for length measurement, at this point the ship is about 2' 6" and will get a little longer once the bowsprit is attached.

I always wanted to buy this model, so that you for the AMAZING walkthrough on its construction!

Not sure if post was really long or I arrived at the wrong part of the page. :(

Briancj wrote:I always wanted to buy this model, so that you for the AMAZING walkthrough on its construction!

Thanks! I try to take as many pictures as I can to document my progress and ideas, especially if I try something different than what the normal plans are. Each section of this design has close to 20 pages of instructions. They could use some work/help on their instructions/how to's as a lot of it is simply a picture w/ "cut here or fold here, figure it out yourself" style of instructions.

I've been wanting to build this model for a long time, ever since I saw one in a Pathfinder Society scenario: Murder on the Throaty Mermaid. I didn't realize how big the ship was, how much work and how expensive the printing would be.

Printing full color on cardstock at a fedex kinkos was over $100. Though at one kinkos it was $1.25/page & the other was $1.50/page. Minimum amount of pages you're going to print out is 80, some will be transparency, most will be card stock. Some could be printed on regular paper (like the decking since its glued to the foam board ), but that would be a personal choice. I'm happy with all the card stock.

The ship is actually further along and seen some game time usage, I just need to upload the pics and write out what I did. There are more pics in the gallery section for the ship.

leohart wrote:Not sure if post was really long or I arrived at the wrong part of the page. :(

The posting for the ship was really long. Lots of work was done, but I didn't upload anything to Dakka since I was writing up and posting the info in all those facebook groups.

Automatically Appended Next Post:
And typing on my phone causes a gnarly double post!


Automatically Appended Next Post:
Found a couple of cool little Pirate ship/conversion stuff sites.

http://pressganger.blogspot.com/2012/03/28mm-pirate-ships-extras-in-uk-my.html

http://www.gamesofwar.net/acatalog/Pirate_Supplies_Store.html

http://www.beastsofwar.com/ainsty-castings/ainsty-castings-28mm-pirate-ships/

http://ainstycastings.co.uk/index.php/cPath/56

Recently I bought an army off a guy on ebay, here is the link:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/170844191757?ssPageName=STRK:MEWNX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1439.l2649

I paid about 134.00 for it and this is what it looked like on the ebay auction:


This is what it looked like when I received and opened the box:


Everything was packaged loose, without padding or paper in a box too large for the army. Those heavy metal models in the first picture as well as the remaining models all had a lovely time slamming around inside the box all the way from NY to TX through our awesome mail system.

Everything was pretty much trashed, broken and damaged. I contacted the seller who was less than enthused and refusing to refund my payment as well as arriving at a variety of conclusions as to my mental state among other things. Opened a case and escalated the issue, ebay seems to have understood my case and I'm awaiting my refund.

Its been a bit of a hassle and I'll hopefully be getting the money back that I spent, but the time and effort dealing with this has been annoying to say the least.

I bought a DE Starter box army and a heavy raider and then I bought this 2K army off ebay, but it arrived all shattered & in pieces. Which I've now sent back. So, now I don't know if I want to keep the DE stuff I bought or go to GW and trade it for something else as it is still in the shrink wrap.

I might trade it in for some Empire stuff. DE Battle force = $110 & Raider = $35.00, so a trade in value of $145

I've got the 100+ Men at Arms & 100 + Bowmen from the Bretonnian line + the Empire Battleforce box
(( This set contains 20 Empire State Troops (which include the option for a command group); 10 State Handgunners (which can alternatively be built as 10 Crossbowmen and includes the option for a command group); a Great Cannon and three crew members (which can alternatively be built as a Mortar); and 8 Empire Knights (which include the option for a command group). )),

1 more cannon and 1 box of militia, I could proxy Bret Knights as Empire Knights, I think I also have an Empire Captain model and a master engineer.

So getting pieces to fill out a full empire force might not be so bad. Just not sure what to get. Though I could also get the WFB Army book and Pre-order the 6th Edition book. sigh. So many books.

Note: I originally picked up the Empire models because I wanted to make pirates for my ship posted above. Which I am going to upload photos for next.

I really, REALLY hate it when eBay goes bad. Sometimes, shipping happens. I sent a Tzeentch DP off to Hawaii, and it got MANGLED, in spite of me packing it in bubblewrap and packing peanuts.

But this...yeah. Hopefully, eBay will come down on your side.

I think you should take this as a sign. Dark Eldar is not your next path.

I agree. The path of pain is not your path. How about trading in the DE stuff for 2 more Bretonnian Trebuchet. I love your Bretonnian stuff so far. Would really love to see you finish them up for Warhammer.

Plus, right now is a very bad time to buy anything 40K, stuff that you buy now might be obsolete the second 6th edition hit. e.g. Rhino-chassis spam might not be advantageous anymore.

Briancj wrote:I really, REALLY hate it when eBay goes bad. Sometimes, shipping happens. I sent a Tzeentch DP off to Hawaii, and it got MANGLED, in spite of me packing it in bubblewrap and packing peanuts.

But this...yeah. Hopefully, eBay will come down on your side.

I think you should take this as a sign. Dark Eldar is not your next path.

Agreed. I hated it when I was burned previously with some ebay purchases ( see earlier part of this blog for those chimera's ). I know things will shift around in packaging and accidents happen, but this guy didn't even wrap anything, he just dumped it into the box and dropped it off at the post.

I wasn't really interested in Dark Eldar, I just bought the boxes because of the price hike coming and I had some old DE Warrior models, so I figured I could expand on that easily and either play them or sell them.

Now, I have the DE Battleforce and a Raider in shrinkwrap, but I don't really want them. So I'm going to take them into GW Tomball and trade them in for something.

leohart wrote:I agree. The path of pain is not your path. How about trading in the DE stuff for 2 more Bretonnian Trebuchet. I love your Bretonnian stuff so far. Would really love to see you finish them up for Warhammer.

Plus, right now is a very bad time to buy anything 40K, stuff that you buy now might be obsolete the second 6th edition hit. e.g. Rhino-chassis spam might not be advantageous anymore.

Dude, lol I have two Bretonnian Trebuchets, I don't need any more. I have a ton of the models finished almost enough to field a fully painted 4K point force. More than 1200 points in just basic peasant models alone.

The Pirate ship needs completing, so I will focus on finishing that, though someone at Fat Ogre asked for my help completing some of their Space Marine models for WargamesCON in Austin, Texas this weekend. I was going to go, but I can't get anyone to help out here.

I was thinking some Empire models to help finish out this Empire force I listed in my previous post, possibly a general, wizard, some warmachines and the steam tank, but not sure of an army list so I haven't made a decision yet.

I also thought I'd just slap it onto a gift card and get the Rule Books in print, since I have the WFB book in .pdf only, though if I pick up a tablet pc like I've been talking about, but haven't made a decision on which one, then that would solve my book issues.

So then I'm back to models and what to buy, lol. :p Based on an Empire Battle Force + 1 Cannon and a unit of militia with an Empire Captain and a Master Engineer, what would you build?

I had these guys sitting in with my Mordian Iron Guard, he's the old Steam Tank Commander and the old Master Engineer with multi-pistol, They could be re-purposed into the Empire Army with a simple removal from the round and installing on a square base as they're simply primed white at this time.



And for those interested here is the convo from ebay supporting my claim,
"eBay Customer Support will issue a full refund to you when you ship the item back to the seller with tracking to the address below."

Hooray me! So I'll have the 134 back as well as the trade in value 145 estimated to work with when building this force or to pickup something new, which I was undecided between more models for WFB or Warmachine Mercenaries (i.e. Pirates for my Pirate ship) or another game I recently came across Freebooters Fate, its a Pirate Skirmish game similar to Infinity or Malifaux.

I still need to finish painting all these models though, lol.

My brother will probably know best what list you can build with those models.

I think you should exchange those boxes for a pre-order of 6th edition rulebook. Just saying.

leohart wrote:My brother will probably know best what list you can build with those models.

I think you should exchange those boxes for a pre-order of 6th edition rulebook. Just saying.

Hahaha I was thinking of getting both the 6th Ed book and the 8th edition WFB book. We'll see.

I was able to get a decent trade in value for the Dark Eldar models and I had it all placed on a store credit card. While I was there I noticed they had a tourney flyer up.



Recently I helped a buddy work on some Dark Eldar models for Wargames Con this weekend. He'd kind of waited til the last minute and then asked for my help. I'll post pics soon.

Whoa, the last ever 5th edition tournament. That sounds interesting.